Danny Lipford » Ask Danny

Should You Install a TV over a Fireplace?

Danny Lipford — Tue, 17 Nov 2009 15:02:17 +0000

Is it a good idea to install a TV over a fireplace? -Herb

Hi Herb,

Mounting a flat screen TV over the fireplace has become quite popular, but there are several potential problems to consider first:

Heat: Depending on the type and design of the fireplace, it may generate more heat than the TV is designed to handle. To find out, attach a thermometer to the wall above the fireplace while a fire is burning. Temperatures over 100° F are considered too high for most sets. Check the specifications in the operating manual that came with the TV to find the maximum temperature for your set.
Smoke: A wood burning fireplace can also emit smoke, ash, soot, and other particulate matter into the room. Since hot air rises, these contaminants will be drawn directly into your TV where they can build up and cause problems over time.
Wiring: If the wall above the fireplace wasn’t wired for a TV, electrical and transmission wires will need to be run first. This can be especially difficult if the wall is brick. In addition, cables for accessories, such as a DVD player or home theater system, will need to be included as well.
Viewing: Flat screen TVs are made to be viewed at eye level. When mounted higher, the screen may need to be angled downward for optimal viewing. Also, consider whether looking up at the TV for long periods of time will be comfortable.
Anchoring: When attaching a TV to a wall, make sure it is properly anchored. This is particularly true when mounting a TV on a brick wall, which will require drilling holes with a masonry bit for plastic or lead anchors.

Good luck with your project,

How to Remove Black Roof Stains

Danny Lipford — Tue, 10 Nov 2009 14:14:01 +0000

Our home is 10 years old and the asphalt roof shingles are starting to stain badly on the north exposure. Is there something that we can use to clean off the staining and treat the shingles to prevent further staining? -Tim

Hi Tim,

Your stains are probably caused by the airborne spores of a blue-green algae known as Gloeocapsa Magma, which is often mistaken for mold or mildew. While doing little harm to your shingles, the black streaks caused by the algae are unsightly.

Algae can be killed and the stains removed using chemical cleaners, though they usually returns over time. Use a cleaner specially made for killing algae, or by spraying a mixture of one part bleach to four parts water with TSP (trisodium phosphate) or other detergent added in a garden pump-up sprayer. Allow the bleach to remain on for 15 to 20 minutes, then rinse it off with a hose.

Note that bleach may kill or damage plants, so wet down or cover any shrubs or flowers that will come in contact before starting. Repeated use of harsh chemicals or pressure washing can damage or shorten the life of your shingles.

Once the roof is clean, consider installing strips of zinc or copper—which are toxic to algae—along your roof below the ridge. Molecules of the metal will then wash down the roof each time it rains to keep new algae from forming. A better solution is to specify algae resistant shingles, which have copper granules embedded in them, the next time you have your roof replaced.

For more information, check out our article on How to Remove and Prevent Algae Stains on Asphalt Shingle Roofs.

Good luck with your project,

How to Solve Moisture Problems Under Your Home

Danny Lipford — Tue, 03 Nov 2009 15:11:23 +0000

We live in an older home that is raised a couple of feet off the ground with a crawlspace under it. In the past few years, the hardwood flooring in several rooms has started to warp and cup. What could be the problem? -Mary

Hi Mary,

It sounds like you may have excessive moisture and humidity in the crawlspace under your home. Here’s what you can do to correct it:

Make sure the ground around your foundation slopes away from the house (1/2″ per foot or more).
Divert rainwater run-off from the roof away from the foundation by installing gutters and extending the downspouts so water is diverted beyond the planting beds and out into the yard.
Check your air conditioner unit to be sure the AC drain pipe isn’t clogged and extend it if needed to direct condensation water away from the foundation of your home.
Inspect the crawlspace under your home. While the soil may be moist, it shouldn’t be saturated or have standing water.
Look for any plumbing leaks as well as excessive dampness, mold, and mildew.
If mold or mildew are present on the joists or bottom of the subfloor, treat under the house with a product such as Concrobium Mold Control (available at The Home Depot along with a fogger to rent).
Clean out any debris and stored items under your house, and fill in any holes or depressions.
Cover the entire crawlspace with thick, black plastic sheeting (6 mil or higher). Overlap the seams by a foot or more and run the plastic up the sides of the foundation.
For extreme moisture problems, consider taping the seams in the plastic together, block the outside vents, and install a dehumidifier in the crawlspace to remove excess moisture from the air.
Good luck with your project,

Related posts:

How to Stop Wobble and Vibration in a Paddle Ceiling Fan

Danny Lipford — Tue, 27 Oct 2009 13:31:01 +0000

My ceiling fan vibrates and wobbles when turned on high speed. How can I fix it?
-Bill

Hi Bill,

There are several possible problems that could cause your paddle fan to wobble or vibrate, some of which could pose serious safety concerns if not fixed. Potential problems include:

Loose screws where the fan attaches to the electrical box at the ceiling.
Electrical ceiling box isn’t properly secured and reinforced.
Screws holding blades to mounting brackets are loose.
Screws holding mounting brackets to fan motor need tightening.
Fan blades are out of alignment.
Fan blades are warped.
Fan blades are out of balance

Start by turning the fan off at the breaker and checking to see if it’s securely attached to the ceiling. If the fan feels loose, tighten the screws at the ceiling that support it, and see if the ceiling box itself is securely attached or needs reinforcement.

Next, make sure the screws that attach the blades to the blade mounts and the mounts to the fan motor are tight. If the fan still wobbles, check the blade alignment by holding a tape measure or yardstick against the ceiling even with the end of the blade, and rotating the fan by hand to see if each blade measures the same. If one of the blades is off, you may be able to slightly bend the metal blade mount to align it, but don’t apply too much pressure or the metal can crack or break.

If the fan still doesn’t run smoothly, the blades are either warped and need to be replaced, or they are out of balance. To balance the blades, attach a small weight—such as a coin or washer—to the top of a blade with tape, then turn the fan on to see if it reduces the wobble. If not, take the weight off, move it to another blade, and try again. Fine-tuning can be accomplished by varying the weight, or by moving the weight in or out on the blade. For the less adventurous do-it-yourselfer, balancing kits—which include weights, a test clip, and detailed instructions—are available at home centers.

Good luck with your project,

Hunter Perfect Balance Ceiling Fans

How to Replace Double Pane Insulated Glass

Danny Lipford — Thu, 22 Oct 2009 15:18:15 +0000

I have French doors to my patio. A pebble shot from my string trimmer and shattered the outer pane of glass only. The back pane is fine. Do I have to buy both panes, or can I just fix the one that is broken? -Gary

Hi Gary,

When one pane of insulated glass breaks, you have to replace the entire piece, since the space between the panes is filled with an inert gas (usually argon) then sealed to keep moisture from forming between the panes.

You can order insulated replacement glass from a glass supply store or the company that made your window or door. You will need to supply the dimensions (including thickness) of the glass, as well as any special coatings—such as low-E—that were on it.

If there is a name and number of the manufacturer on the glass, include that information as well. Glass doors require tempered glass, which is much stronger than regular glass.

Good luck with your project,

Faced Insulation Problem in Attic Solved

Danny Lipford — Mon, 19 Oct 2009 17:59:39 +0000

I recently added an additional layer of faced fiberglass insulation to my attic. Since then I noted you stipulated unfaced insulation for the attic if you already have a layer of insulation. What should I do? -Rod

Hi Rod,

As you’ve discovered, since you already had insulation in your attic, the layer of new insulation you added should have been unfaced to prevent moisture from becoming trapped between the layers. The good news is that the solution to your problem isn’t that difficult.

Simply peel the facing paper off the top layer of insulation. Though you might loose a little of the insulation that sticks to the paper, with most brands of insulation, the facing will peel off easily. While you will have spent a little more in both time and materials on the project than if you’d used unfaced insulation to begin with, the results will be about the same.

Good luck with your project,

Installing Storm Windows on Insulated Glass

Danny Lipford — Tue, 13 Oct 2009 15:52:28 +0000

We have double pane windows and are thinking about installing storm windows in front of them. Would that be a cost efficient way to save on our energy bills? -Jessica

Hi Jessica,

While you could add storm windows to your existing double pane windows, the energy savings would not be nearly as great as installing them over single pane windows.

When used over single pane glass in colder climates, storm windows can reduce heating costs by 13% and pay for themselves in 10 years. If a low-E coating is applied to the storm window, the savings increase to over 20%, with payback in less than 5 years.

Since you already have insulated glass windows, the payback period would be much longer in your case.

To increase the energy efficiency of your existing windows, be sure the sash are a tight fit in the casing and the weather stripping around the window blocks air infiltration. If you decide to install storm with a low-E coating, make sure it is the proper type for your climate.

Good luck with your project,

How to Cut Existing Flooring Flush with Cabinets

Danny Lipford — Fri, 09 Oct 2009 13:48:43 +0000

I want to remove my existing laminate flooring and replace it with cement backer board and tile, but the cabinets are built on top of the laminate. How can I cut the flooring flush with the cabinet kickboard to keep from having to take out all my cabinets? -Stacy

Hi Stacy,

Crain Tools makes a specialty saw (Crain #79 Toe-Kick Saw) that can cut up to 3/4″ deep flush with a cabinet under a toe space. More information is available on the Crain Tools website. Check with tool rental stores in your area to see if you can rent one.

You could also consider outfitting a small grinder with a blade to cut through it, but be careful it doesn’t kickback and cause injury or damage your cabinets. Attaching a strip of sheet metal or plastic laminate with double stick tape to the cabinet kickboard can help keep the blade from marring it.

Good luck with your project,

How to Rid Your Home of Mold and Mildew

Danny Lipford — Mon, 05 Oct 2009 20:49:03 +0000

Our house has a musty smell, and we recently found mold growing inside some of the closets and cabinets. How can we get rid of it? -Joseph

Hi Joseph,

Since mold and mildew require warm, moist conditions to grow, start by eliminating any unwanted sources of water, such as leaks in the roof, dripping pipes, or gaps around tubs or showers. Check to be sure your outside walls are weather tight and that rain isn’t coming in around windows and doors. Finally, correct any moisture problems under your home in the basement or crawlspace.

Humidity levels indoors over 60% can promote mold growth, so monitor the relative humidity in your home with a humidity gauge (hygrometer). If the humidity is high, lower it by running the air conditioner or installing a dehumidifier. Also, consider improving air circulation in your home by using bathroom and kitchen vent fans, as well as paddle or portable fans.

To remove small amounts of mold and mildew, scrub the surface with water and detergent then dry it thoroughly. For more serious cases, use a product specifically made to kill mold. While diluted bleach can kill mold on nonporous surfaces, it’s largely ineffective on porous materials, including wood, and will damage fabrics.

Good luck with your project,

Further Information

How to Prevent and Remove Mold (article)
Eliminating Mold in Your Home (video)
How to Reduce Mold and Moisture Under Your Home (video)

Is Water from a Tankless Hot Water Heater Hot Enough?

Danny Lipford — Wed, 30 Sep 2009 16:45:54 +0000

I would like to put in a tankless hot water heater, but I’m concerned that the water will not get hot enough. Is that a problem?” -Gail

Hi Gail,

Tankless water heaters can get the water plenty hot enough. Depending on the brand and model, most tankless water heaters have a temperature setting that is adjustable between 100° to 140° (most tank water heaters are set around 120°).

In order to make sure the water will be hot enough, it’s important that a tankless water heater is sized based on your climate and hot water needs.

Size tankless water heater for usage: The amount of water being used can affect the temperature of the hot water if the unit is too small for the amount of flow it’s being asked to produce. A unit that is too small for the amount of hot water it is asked to provide may work fine when only one shower is running, but the temperature could drop when another hot water tap is opened at the same time.
Size tankless water heater to the water supply temperature: Tankless water heaters are rated based on the rise in water temperature they produce. The colder the temperature of the water supply coming in, the lower the maximum temperature of the heater. So if you live in a cold climate, like Alaska, you’ll need a larger tankless water heater than someone living in a warm climate, like Florida.

Good luck with your project,

How to Remove Smells and Odors from Drinking Water