Expert Advice on Home Improvement

We just bought some shrubs at a late fall sale. Can we plant them now, or should we try to store them until spring? -Dee

Go ahead and plant them. Even though it’s late in the season, your shrubs will be happier in the ground than in pots. Ideally, trees and shrubs need about a month to establish roots before a heavy freeze, but it’s actually OK to plant them anytime the ground is workable, and many bare-root trees and shrubs are planted in very early spring while they’re still dormant.

I’ve planted well into December with success, though the plantings looked pretty pitiful until the weather warms up in the spring.

Here are a few tips for seeing your late-season plantings through the winter:

• Avoid stimulating growth: Don’t fertilize or overly amend the soil. You can add a little compost and bone meal (to stimulate root growth), but hold off on fertilizer until spring.
• Don’t disturb the plant: Avoid pruning, and be very gentle with the roots while planting. The shrub won’t have time to recover from damage, and it’s going to be stressed enough as it is.
• Keep plants watered: The worst part of cold damage is caused by desiccation, or drying out. Keep new shrubs watered every week or two until the ground freezes, and especially right before a heavy freeze.
• Watch out for frost heaving: Make sure the plants stay firmly plants when the ground freezes.
• Apply Mulch: Add mulch to keep newly planted shrubs insulated. If you’re planting cold-sensitive trees or shrubs, you can add extra protection by wrapping or banking the plants with burlap or leaves on cold nights. Be sure to uncover in the morning.

If the ground is frozen solid and unworkable, you can store unplanted shrubs in a sheltered spot with a southern exposure. Bank with leaves or mulch to keep them insulated and water every few days. When growth starts in early spring, prune away any damaged branches, shape up your plants, feed with a balanced organic fertilizer, and they should recover nicely.

Further Information

• How to Protect Your Garden from Frost and Freeze
• When to Water Plants Before a Freeze
• How to Plant Container Grown Shrubs

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Most fertilizers no longer contain phosphorus.

“Why are many fertilizer bags labeled ‘phosphorus free’? I thought phosphorus was one of the three important nutrients for plants?” -Madison

You’re right that phosphorus is an important nutrient, but fertilizers containing phosphorus are a major source of groundwater contamination. Did you know that phosphate fertilizers:

• Run off into streams and lakes to create algae blooms that are toxic to humans and kill fish.
• End up in the ocean, where they contribute to oceanic “dead zones.”
• The methods to process rock phosphate cause the release of radioactive waste!

Many states now have regulations limiting fertilizers, detergents, and other products made with phosphates in an attempt to control pollution. That’s why the phosphorus number (the middle number) on your fertilizer bag is usually zero. The exception to this is so-called “starter” fertilizer, which contains higher phosphorus levels specifically to help new seeds to sprout.

If you test the soil in your lawn or garden, you’ll probably find you don’t need to add phosphorus, since most soil contains enough naturally.

I use bone meal and/or compost when planting new shrubs.

There are only two times when I want extra phosphorus for my garden:

• When planting shrubs and trees, especially if I’m transplanting something with lots of broken roots. Phosphorus helps with root growth and establishment of new plants.
• Mixed into the vegetable garden. Phosphorus helps with the production of fruits and vegetables, particularly root crops.

Here are some lawn and garden tips for protecting the environment:

• Use compost! Composted fruits and vegetables provide plenty of natural phosphorus for your garden in a slow-release, organic form.
• Adding organic matter helps the soil release natural phosphorus to your plants, making it (and other nutrients) more absorbable.
• When you need additional phosphorus, use an organic source such as bone meal, soy meal, manure, or bat guano. While rock phosphate is considered an organic source of phosphorus, the radioactive byproducts formed during production can be detrimental to the environment.
• Avoid fertilizers, dish detergents, and laundry detergents that contain phosphate. Manufacturers are catching on, and many products are now clearly labeled phosphate-free.
• Educate your community about the need for reducing fertilizer runoff.

Always choose phosphate-free products.

Further Information

• Use Phosphorus-Free Lawn Fertilizer (EPA)
• Phosphorus Pollution (State Environmental Research Center)
• Fertilizer and Fertilizer Production Wastes (EPA)

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If the main stem dies, the rootstock may sprout a different type of rose.

Sue asks, “I planted two roses in memory of my parents. Unfortunately, the tops were killed during our cold winter. This summer, they have begun sprouting again from the roots. Can these roses be saved?”

The future of your roses depends on whether or not the roses were grafted. With the exception of some heirloom, shrub, and miniature roses; most rose varieties are not grown with their own roots. Instead, they are grafted onto the rootstock of tougher varieties. Take a look at your roses and see if you can find the graft bud – it will be a lump or scar right above the root ball, indicating where the two stems were fused together. If the roses were properly planted, it should be just above ground level.

If your roses are grafted, and the sprouts are coming from below the graft, then the sprouts aren’t the same type of rose. The most common root stock is from a red climbing rose called ‘Dr. Huey,’ which is likely what you’ll have if you let the sprouts grow. If the sprouts are coming from above the graft (or if your roses aren’t grafted), then your rose may indeed be making a comeback!

Hybrid roses do funny things when stressed, so you may not know exactly what has happened to your rose until it blooms again. You may end up with the rose you started with, or you may find that it has reverted to its parent variety (the one used to create the hybrid), or you may find that the rootstock has sprouted a whole different type of plant. Prepare to be surprised!

Before purchasing roses In the future, check to see if the variety is winter-hardy for your planting zone. If you’re worried about cold damage in your area, see our article on How To Winterize Roses.

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What type of ‘weed-n-feed’ can I use that’s safe for St. Augustine grass? I’d like to apply it this fall, and I’m having a hard time finding a product labeled for use on my lawn. -Joe

As you’ve likely discovered, many broadleaf weed killers also harm St. Augustine grass. There are a few herbicides available that are rated for St. Augustine, but most of them are weed control only, not weed and feed.

A couple of thoughts about weed-and-feed products:

• Unless you live in a frost-free climate, you should stop using any fertilizers at least six weeks before your average first frost date. St. Augustine is a warm-season grass that goes dormant for the winter, and you don’t want to stimulate growth that can be killed by frost. Weed-and-feed products are best reserved for spring and summer in these types of lawns.
• The most common herbicide for St. Augustine lawns is Atrazine. Simply put, Atrazine is nasty stuff. It’s known to cause cancer and birth defects, and it’s showing up at alarming levels in drinking water. One look at the stern warnings on the label should make you think twice about putting it on your lawn!
• A healthy lawn is naturally weed-resistant. If you have a widespread weed problem, focus instead on getting your lawn healthy, or on replacing the unhealthy lawn with groundcover or planting beds.

To help decide which herbicide to use on your lawn, check out Managing Weeds in Warm Season Lawns by Clemson University Extension. It includes a table that matches grass and weed types to herbicides with specific product names.

Further Information

• Atrazine (Extension Toxicology Network)
• How to Control Weeds in Your Lawn
• Fall Lawn Care Guide

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What’s the least toxic way to get rid of weeds in my gravel driveway? I’d rather not use harsh chemicals, but there are too many to pull them up by hand. -BJ

Because you’re weeding a gravel area, you have the advantage of not having to worry about killing desirable grasses or garden plants, and less of the product will come into contact with garden soil. Nevertheless, everything we do in the garden has some impact on the environment, so you’re wise to minimize the use of chemicals. Here are some ideas:

• Barriers: The next time you replenish the gravel in your driveway, consider putting down landscape fabric or plastic first, to prevent weeds from sprouting through the gravel. You can also put barriers around the edges, to help keep weeds and grasses from creeping out of your lawn.
• Heat: To kill weeds using heat, carefully pour boiling water directly on the plant. Or, you could try using a small blowtorch or paint stripping heat gun to crisp the weeds in your gravel.
• Vinegar or Soap: Vinegar and herbicidal soaps kill (by drying out) all vegetation in their paths, but they are thought to kill beneficial microbes and sterilize soil. This is less of an issue in your gravel drive, although you should consider that some of the product will run off into drainage areas.
• Herbicides: If you resort to organic or chemical herbicides to control weeds in your drive, you can minimize the environmental impact by carefully painting the liquid directly on the leaves, or by using a shield to target the weeds.

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Can I use sand to break up clay soil and improve my lawn? -Gary

Sand is an important ingredient in the composition of soil (see What Is Dirt, Anyway?), but it needs to be balanced with organic matter in order to be of any benefit. Despite popular advice, you shouldn’t use sand by itself – that misguided practice is a cheap shortcut rather than a problem-solver.

When mixed together, sand and clay form a substance very similar to concrete, which will make your problem worse! Your soil would have to be more than 50% sand before it would start behaving like sandy soil – and sandy soil has drainage problems of its own.

You’re better off mixing your sand with compost or humus, at a 50-50 ratio, before incorporating it into your soil. Use the coarsest sand you can find (not play sand), with the largest particles, and mix it with well-rotted organic matter. If you aren’t able to do this step, you’re better off using compost alone.

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If I have clippings, I sprinkle them thinly in naturalized areas.

Is it a good idea to use grass clippings as mulch? -Henry

Grass clippings can make great mulch, though using them has advantages and disadvantages. To begin with, if you are mowing properly – with a nice sharp mulching blade set high, cutting no more than 1/3 of the grass blade at a time – you shouldn’t HAVE any grass clippings. The small chopped-up snippets are best left where they are, to quickly decompose and feed your lawn.

However, if you’re mowing an overgrown area, or prefer to bag your clippings, here’s what you need to know about using them as mulch.

• Dry grass clippings: If applied too thickly, fresh green grass clippings turn into a smelly, gooey mess, smothering your garden with a hot, moldy blanket. The heat of decomposition can damage plants and invite diseases, and the matted, decomposing grass blocks air and water circulation.
• Build clippings gradually: Spread your clippings in a 1” layer, and allow them to completely dry and turn brown (a week or two) before adding more. Or, you can dry your clippings elsewhere and spread them when they’re ready.
• Beware of contamination: Keep in mind that clippings will be contaminated with any chemicals you have applied to your lawn. Any fertilizers, insecticides, or weed killers you used will then be filtered into the soil around your garden plants.
• Watch out for weeds: Most lawns have at least a few weeds, so there’s a good chance your clippings will contain weed seeds which may germinate in your garden.

As an alternative, add grass clippings to your compost pile, mixed with at least an equal amount of brown stuff (such as dead leaves) to balance out the composting process.

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In my yard, gnats tend to congregate in the mulch and shrubbery.

My back yard is infested with gnats, and it’s driving me nuts! I have a dog, so I want to be careful about what products I use. Could you please help? -Trisha

While we frequently use the word “gnats” to refer to any number of tiny winged insects (such as biting midges, punkies, and no see ums), true fungus gnats are small nonbiting insects that are drawn to wet, rotten organic matter where they lay their eggs and soon hatch into larvae. In general, they are relatively harmless creatures, but their incessant swarming is annoying enough to drive even the toughest of gardeners indoors.

Like mosquitoes, gnats can be difficult to control, because the problem may go beyond your property line. It’s pretty hard to deal with any insect in your own yard if they’re flying in from a nearby lake or farm, and some parts of the world seem to be overrun during the warmer months.

A little vanilla extract on the brim of your hat acts as a “natural” gnat repellent.

Take these steps to make your yard less inviting to gnats:

• Keep your garden free of mold, fungus, and rotting plant debris. Pay particular attention to shady areas with poor air circulation. Put your compost pile as far from the house as you can, cover your trash cans, and keep fallen debris cleaned up.
• Amend your garden soil to improve drainage.
• Occasionally rake or turn your mulch to allow sodden, moldy layers to dry out.
• Avoid overwatering, and allow enough time between waterings for the top layer of soil to dry out.
• Water in the morning to avoid overnight fungal growth.
• Make sure you have no standing water in gutters, drainage areas, or low spots.
• Keep birdbaths and water features clean.
• If your garden still has naturally damp areas, you can top dress the soil with an inch (or less) of sand, to discourage gnats looking for moist soil.
• Use sodium light bulbs in outdoor areas to reduce attraction at night.

Mulch is great for holding in moisture, but it shouldn’t be moldy or soggy.

To address existing infestations, here are some other ideas:

• BTi (Bacillus thuringiensis v israelensis), also known as Gnatrol, is a bacteria that effectively kills gnat larvae. It is most suitable if you can identify specific areas where gnat larvae are actively hatching and feeding.
• Beneficial nematodes and predatory insects can provide long-term control of larvae once established in the garden.
• Traps including liquid traps, sticky traps, and electronic insect devices can help control gnats in areas where the adult insects are swarming.

Homemade gnat control trap.

• Repellents: DEET, citronella, vanilla, pine oil, and dryer sheets are commonly used to repel gnats. You can also use fans on your porch to keep the air moving and discourage hovering swarms. There are also a number of repellent sprays, lanterns, and granules on the market that claim to repel gnats with varying degrees of effectiveness or toxicity.
• Chemical controls: Foggers, sprays, and insecticides designed for flying insects will work with gnats, although they’re not particularly effective in preventing future infestations. Prevention is more effective, and less toxic, than chemical controls.

A variety of organic gnat control products, including repellents and predatory insects, can be found at your local garden center or at online retailers such as Planet Natural and Golden Harvest Organics.

If you’re not sure what sort of insect you’re dealing with, or if you’re being bitten, you may find it helpful to contact your local agricultural extension service for advice specific to your region. Information and helpful photos about identifying gnats and other flying insects can be found at doyourownpestcontrol.com

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When I water, I like to spray the plant leaves in order to clean them off and cool them down. Is this OK? -Matt

A spray of water is a great way to remove buildup and grime from foliage and to dislodge aphids and other insects. However, wet foliage and soggy soil quickly invite fungal diseases, so it’s best to spray your plants only occasionally, and in the morning, so that the leaves have a chance to dry completely during the day.

As for cooling your plants, it’s true that wetting the foliage can reduce leaf temperature, which reduces evaporation and can help your plant conserve water. While it’s not recommended as a daily habit, some gardeners head out on extremely hot, dry days to cool down particularly heat-sensitive or fragile plants.

However, routinely spraying your plants during the heat of the day will waste a lot of water that might be more useful around the root zone. Before you rely on overhead spraying to cool your plants, make sure you’ve taken these steps to protect your garden from the heat:

• Water your plants regularly and deeply at the roots. Well hydrated leaves are your best defense against temperature extremes.
• Mulch your plants generously, to cool the roots and hold in moisture.
• Choose plants that are appropriate for your planting zone, and consider landscaping with drought-tolerant plants to reduce watering needs.
• Use overhead spraying only as an emergency measure in extreme heat waves. High temperatures and low humidity cause plants to lose water very rapidly.

Further Information

• A Mist in the Sun (Mobile Press-Register)

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My chrysanthemums are being attacked by a reddish brown beetle which buries itself in the soil until after dark, then proceeds to devour the foliage at night. What can I do? -Dorothy

It sounds like your mums are being attacked by Asiatic garden beetles. These nocturnal beetles are about 3/8” long with a reddish-cinnamon color. They emerge in mid to late summer to feed on the leaves and flowers of many types of plants, including chrysanthemums.

Like Japanese beetles and other garden beetles, Asiatic garden beetles are difficult to control once the adults have moved in for the season. Here are some things to try:

• Manual control: This means hand-picking the adult beetles and drowning them in soapy water. Asiatic garden beetles can be caught by hunting them in the garden at night, or by catching them as they congregate on lit-up windows and screen doors.
• Biological grub control: Asiatic garden beetle larvae fall into the common category of “white grubs.” If you have a serious infestation, your best bet may be to work on controlling these grubs, which hatch and feed underground in the early spring before emerging as adult beetles in midsummer. Several biological controls are available to control white grubs in turf grass, including predatory nematodes and bacterial agents. Plow up your vegetable and flower gardens as early as possible in the spring, to expose the grubs to hungry birds.
• Chemical control: While there are some pesticides registered for control of Asiatic garden beetles, chemical controls are generally considered pretty ineffective against adult beetle populations. They also harm other insects and birds, and can be harmful to humans and pets as well. If you choose this route, read the labels carefully to get the product that will create the least collateral damage.
• Protect your garden: Use row covers to protect vegetables from feeding adults in late summer. Handpick any feeding adults you find. In the fall, clean up your garden and plow under (or compost) garden debris, to reduce populations of overwintering eggs. Keep your lawn healthy and thick to reduce grub infestations.

Further Information

• Asiatic Garden Beetles (University of New Hampshire Extension)
• Photo of Asiatic Garden Beetle (Tree of Life Web Project)

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