Ask Julie Answers, Concrete and Masonry, Featured, Landscaping & Design, Lawn and Garden, Repairs and Installation by Julie Day
Topper stones make a wall look finished but have to be cut to fit a curved wall.
How do I add square topper stones to a curved retaining wall? And how do I attach the topper stones so that they don’t get knocked off? -Paul
Those wedge-shaped stackable stones are great for building curved retaining walls, but once complete it leaves you with unsightly gaps. For a finished look, you can add topper stones, but it poses some challenges since:
- Topper stones are usually square, not wedge-shaped, so if you want a smooth top you’ll need to cut them to fit the curve. If your curve is very gradual, you might be able to get away with spreading out the small gaps so they aren’t noticeable.
- Topper stones are also a bit wider and lighter than the wall blocks, so it’s easy to kick them out of place or bump them with a lawn mower. I have topper stones on my wall, and I’m always knocking them loose and having to put them back.
Instead of my kick-and-replace method, there are better ways of finishing off your retaining wall! Try these tips.
Use a Masonry Saw
Retaining wall blocks can be cut using a masonry chisel and mallet, but for the topper stones you may want to spring for a diamond blade masonry saw such as the Edco Hardscape Saw. Similar to a wet tile saw, masonry saws make very clean, straight cuts that will give a nice finishing touch to your wall. Masonry saws can be rented at your local rental center – all you’ll need is an extension cord and a garden hose to provide lubricating water.
The bottom stones will be cut along the lines, and the top one will be left square.
How to Measure the Cut
If you enjoy geometry, you can cut each stone at an angle to curve along your wall. For a faster job that looks just as neat, try this approach:
- Step 1: At the beginning of your wall, place stones #1 and #3 in their places. You’re going to be cutting both of these.
- Step 2: Lay stone #2 on top of them, with the front corners lined up. You’re NOT going to be cutting this stone, you’re just using it as a cutting pattern.
- Step 3: Draw lines on stones #1 and #3 where the top stone overlaps them.
- Step 4: Cut stones #1 and #3 along your lines.
- Step 5: Replace the stones on the wall, and now stone #2 should fit neatly between them.
- Step 6: Now put stone #4 on top of stones #3 and #5, and repeat. The odd-numbered stones will be cut on both edges, and the even-numbered stones will be left uncut.
The back view shows the overlap of the stones and the cutting line being marked.
Adhere the Stones
Once your topper stones are cut and fit, you can keep them in place using masonry adhesive. Masonry adhesive usually comes in a tube for use with a caulk gun and should be available at your home improvement store. Examples include:
For a very solid wall, you can also use the adhesive to attach the stackable blocks themselves.
Further Information
Ask Julie Answers, Flowers, Lawn and Garden by Julie Day
All of a sudden, my flower garden, which is normally full of color all year, has turned green. Why aren’t my plants blooming? -Julie M.
It’s so frustrating to take good care of your plants and be rewarded with a lack of blooms! In order to diagnose exactly why a plant isn’t blooming, you really have to understand the individual plant itself. Many plants have particular needs that can affect their flowering. However, if your entire flower garden has stopped blooming, there might be something else going on.
Here are the main reasons why plants don’t bloom, and some things you can do about it.
Annuals
Annual plants typically bloom for most of the growing season. If they stop blooming, it may be caused by:
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Overfeeding: Nitrogen promotes leaf and stem growth, so too much nitrogen results in green plants with no blooms. Even a balanced fertilizer with equal amounts of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium might have too much nitrogen for your flowering plants.
What to do: Water your plants really well to wash away some of the nitrogen. Stop using your current fertilizer and give your plants a few weeks’ rest before switching to one with little or no nitrogen and extra phosphorus. Fertilizers labeled as “bloom-boosting” usually have better proportions for flowering plants.
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Heat: Some plants stop flowering when stressed by the heat, particularly if overnight temperatures rise too high.
What to do: There’s not much you can do for heat-stressed plants other than keeping them alive and healthy until the weather changes.
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Cold: While cooler temperatures are often vital for the setting of flower buds, a dip too low can freeze the buds and cause a season without blooms.
What to do: Choose plants that are hardy in your climate, and protect tender plants from cold temperatures.
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Light: The amount of sunlight is crucial to getting plants to bloom. Sun-loving plants won’t bloom in shade, and shade-loving plants have trouble in too much sun. Also, some plants are “photoperiodic,” which means they bloom in response to the change in the length of daylight as the seasons progress.
What to do: While you can’t change the seasons, you can make sure your garden is getting the amount of sunlight required by your particular plants. Check to see if trees or other plants have grown tall enough to shade your garden, and move plants to a different location if there’s not enough (or too much) sunlight.
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Water: While all plants need water, some—particularly desert plants and highly drought-tolerant plants—slow or stop blooming when overwatered. On the other hand, water-loving plants can stop blooming during drought.
What to do: Check each plant’s individual water needs to make sure you’re not over or under watering.
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Underfeeding: Container plants especially are vulnerable to nutrient depletion.
What to do: Amend your soil with compost and organic matter, and feed with a fertilizer lower in nitrogen and higher in phosphorus.
Perennials, Shrubs, and Trees
In addition to the above factors, perennials, bulbs, shrubs, and trees might be affected by:
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Season: Most plants bloom during a particular season that can last days, weeks, or even months. For example, if your garden is full of spring-flowering plants, it will only be colorful in the spring.
What to do: Plant a variety of plants in your yard for year-round color.
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Plant Age: Some plants don’t bloom until they’re mature enough, and many won’t bloom the first season after they’re moved or transplanted.
What to do: Allow time for plants to mature when young or after transplanting.
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Pruning: Plants that bloom once per year can be affected by pruning that removes tiny flower buds. For example, camellias set buds for spring blooms several months earlier, so a late fall pruning can cut off next spring’s flowers.
What to do: Make sure to prune plants at the correct time for each type.
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Alternate Flowering: Some flowering trees will spontaneously bloom very profusely one year, then take a year or two off.
What to do: This can happen naturally in some varieties, but in the future you can choose plants less prone to alternate flowering.
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Complacency: Plants bloom in order to reproduce and survive, and older settled plants may be “too comfortable” to need to bloom. Sometimes you can encourage a shrub or tree to bloom by stressing it a little.
What to do: Try root pruning to encourage your plant to bloom.
Further Information
Ask Julie Answers, Diseases & Pests, Flowers, Fruits & Vegetables, Lawn and Garden, Organic Gardening by Julie Day
When I read about organic gardening, I see a lot of references to neem oil. What is it, and how do I use it in my garden? -Sherry
Neem oil is made from the seeds of the neem tree (Azadirachta indica), which is native to India. Since ancient times, the neem tree has been prized as a sacred remedy and important ingredient in Ayurvedic medicine. In the garden, neem boasts a powerful insecticidal ingredient, azadirachtin, which makes it a great organic choice for controlling a variety of problems.
Uses for Neem Oil
Neem oil can be used to treat a number of garden ailments, including:
- Insects: Neem oil kills or repels many harmful insects and mites, including aphids, whiteflies, snails, nematodes, mealybugs, cabbage worms, gnats, moths, cockroaches, flies, termites, mosquitoes, and scale. It kills some bugs outright, attacks the larvae of others, and repels plant munchers with its bitter taste.
- Fungus: Neem oil is also effective in preventing fungal diseases such as black spot, anthracnose, rust, and mildew.
- Disease: As if that wasn’t enough, neem oil also battles viruses that can harm plants.
Advantages of Neem Oil
Neem oil is a popular choice in organic gardens because it is:
- Nontoxic: As long as it isn’t sprayed directly on them, neem oil is nontoxic to beneficial garden insects such as predatory wasps, honeybees, earthworms, ants, spiders, ladybugs, and adult butterflies. Neem oil is considered nontoxic to humans, birds, and other animals as well (see below) and can be used on fruits, vegetables, and flowering plants.
- Organic: Neem oil is plant based and easily available from organically grown neem trees.
- Biodegradable: Neem oil breaks down quickly and leaves no lasting residue.
How To Apply Neem Oil
Neem oil concentrate is usually mixed with water and sprayed on both sides of plant leaves. Because oil and water tend to separate, you’ll need to keep your solution well stirred. You can also mix it with insecticidal soap for a double whammy. Neem oil is bottled in different concentrations, so follow the instructions on the package to get the right proportions of oil to water.
Other Uses for Neem Oil
If you’re concerned about the safety of neem oil compared to other products in your garden, consider that neem is often used as an ingredient in:
- Cosmetics
- Shampoos (including pet shampoos for flea/tick control)
- Natural insect repellents
- Alternative medical remedies for antiseptic, antiviral, antifungal, and anti-inflammatory uses
The only health cautions for neem oil relate to actual consumption of the oil, and garden use does not appear to pose any known health hazards. As with any chemical—organic or synthetic—use neem oil only in moderation when needed, and wash all veggies and plants thoroughly before eating.
Further Information
Ask Julie Answers, Lawn Care, Lawn Mowers, Lawn and Garden by Julie Day
How low–or high–should I cut the grass in my lawn? -Rasheem
The proper height for mowing your lawn depends on the type of grass, the season, and the growing conditions. For example, bentgrass can be mowed under ½-inch, while tall fescues should be 3-4 inches high. Choosing the correct mowing height is important since:
- Proper mowing creates a low-maintenance, drought-tolerant lawn.
- It discourages undesirable grasses and weeds while encouraging your chosen grass type. For example, mowing fescue higher will discourage Bermuda grass which is low-growing.
Pointers for Setting Mower Cutting Height
- Shady grasses grow better if mowed a little higher.
- Raise the blade to the top of the cutting range for your type of grass (see chart below) during drought conditions in summer to reduce the stress on your lawn.
- Cut warm-season grasses at the lower end of the cutting range in early spring to remove dead blades.
- In general, cool-season grasses do best when cut as high as possible.
- Different varieties within the same grass type may vary as to the best cutting height, so try to identify the specific variety you have (such as ‘Zenith’ zoysia or ‘Empire’ zoysia), then check with a sod or seed supplier for cutting recommendations.
Recommended Mowing Heights for Lawn Grasses
The chart below gives general guidelines for grass cutting height.
| Grass Type |
Mowing Height |
| Bahia grass |
2½” – 4” |
| Bentgrass |
¼” – ¾” |
| Bermuda |
½” – 2½” |
| Buffalograss |
2” – 4” |
| Centipede |
1” – 2 ½” |
| Fine fescue |
2½” – 3” |
| Kentucky Bluegrass |
1½” – 3½” |
| Ryegrass |
1½” – 2 ½” |
| St. Augustine |
1” – 3” |
| Tall fescue |
2” – 4” |
| Zoysia |
½” – 2” |
Further Information
