Danny Lipford » Ask Julie

Hardy vs. Tender Bulbs

Julie Day — Tue, 18 Nov 2008 13:33:02 +0000

“I’m confused about bulbs. What’s the difference between hardy bulbs and tender bulbs? And what about spring vs. summer bulbs? How do I know what kind I can grow?” -Scott

Let me start by defining the two most important things you need to know:

Hardy bulbs require a period of cold in order to bloom. These bulbs are planted in the fall and bloom in spring or summer. You can force hardy bulbs to bloom most any time by chilling them for 2-4 months, which fools them into thinking they’ve had winter.
Examples of hardy bulbs include: tulips, daffodils, grape hyacinths, and crocuses.
Tender bulbs do not need, and cannot survive, cold temperatures. They respond more to the length of daylight and to warmth, and they are usually planted in the spring to bloom in summer or fall. You can’t force them to bloom unless you have a greenhouse that controls light, temperature, and humidity, but you can give them a head start by potting them indoors in early spring.
Examples of tender bulbs include Canna, Calla, Elephant Ear, Caladium, Ranunculus, Dahlia, Gladiolus, and Tuberous Begonia.

Some bulbs are only semi-tender, meaning that some areas of the U.S. can grow them year-round. Others are tropical and cannot tolerate any cold at all. When buying bulbs, be sure to check the hardiness zone to see if you can leave them in the ground over the winter. If your climate is too cold, you can always dig up and store your tender bulbs over the winter, and replant them in the spring.

As for the question about spring vs. summer bulbs, that’s just an indicator of when they bloom. All spring bulbs are hardy, but summer bulbs may or may not be hardy depending on the type.

When to Cut Back Ornamental Grasses

Julie Day — Tue, 11 Nov 2008 14:50:49 +0000

“In the fall, many of the ornamental grasses that looked so nice over the summer are beginning to look a little shabby and worn. Can they be cut back now, or should I wait until colder weather?” -Bill

Traditionally, ornamental grasses are cut back in the late winter or early spring, for two main reasons:

The dormant foliage provides some winter interest in an otherwise bare garden.
The foliage provides some insulating protection from cold and soaking rains.

The cold protection is important if you are planting grasses only marginally hardy to your zone. Leaving the foliage over the winter can insulate the plant and increase its chances of surviving the winter. The foliage also shields water from the crown, helping to prevent rot.

If you live in a warmer climate, or if you are planting grasses that are winter hardy in your zone, when to cut them back is really a matter of preference. Some gardeners like the “neat and tidy” look over the winter, while others like the swaying and crackling grasses in the landscape. In warmer areas, cutting grasses back in the fall can actually stimulate next year’s growth, giving you an early start next season.

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Homemade Swimming Pool Line Antifreeze

Julie Day — Fri, 07 Nov 2008 13:00:16 +0000

“Pool winterizing antifreeze has gotten pricey. Is there a way I can make my own antifreeze for my pool lines? My contractor and I put the main lines below the frost line as a preventative measure.” -Kurt

At anywhere from $15 to $30 per gallon, pool antifreeze can certainly get pricey, especially if you have long supply lines.

Pool antifreeze is generally a propylene glycol solution, sometimes mixed with alcohol or other additives and sometimes just diluted with water. Propylene glycol can be purchased in bulk – one source I found was The Chemistry Store. If you decide to make your own solution, I would recommend getting some sound advice from a chemist or pool specialist regarding the correct proportions and type of water (distilled, etc.) that should be used, and also in proper storage and disposal of propylene glycol.

Pool line antifreeze will eventually end up in your pool water. Don’t try to cut corners by substituting auto antifreeze or any product with ethylene glycol – even at low concentrations, the ethylene glycol reacts with pool chlorine to form toxic chlorinated hydrocarbons in the water.

How to Identify a Tree

Julie Day — Tue, 04 Nov 2008 13:58:00 +0000

“How do I identify a tree in my yard?” -Isabel

There are almost 700 species of trees native to the US and Canada, not to mention naturalized and exotic varieties, which is more than more of us can keep in our brains. Identifying a tree isn’t all that difficult – all you need is a little information and a good identification resource, such as a tree key or guidebook.

Step 1: Take Note of the Tree’s Features

Observe, sketch, or photograph the main features of the tree, including:

Leaf size and shape
Bark
Flowers
Fruit, seeds, or cones
Overall shape and size

If you’re out walking and need a shortcut, you can make a fairly accurate identification simply using a leaf sample.

Step 2: Consult a Tree Key or Identification Guide

A “tree key” is designed to help you identify your tree by answering a series of multiple-choice questions. Most tree keys begin by asking you if the tree has needles or broad leaves, and it goes on to more detailed questions. Some tree keys also offer identification by twig, flower, or seed. There are many online tree keys available, including:

Tree Leaf Key at Forestry.about.com
Arbor Day Foundation Online Tree Identification Guide
For more detail, Virginia Tech University has an Online Dendrology Guide to identify trees by leaf, twig, or using a broader interview process.

Another good resource is a tree identification guidebook, which categorizes trees according to leaf shape, flower type, fruit, cones, and seeds. Some tree identification guides include:

No matter what resource you use, simply compare your sample and information to the guide, and you will soon have your tree identified. Most have photos or diagrams that help to make sense of the terminology, and most have an easy step-by-step process to narrow down the choices. Before you know it, you’ll have that tree identified!

Holes in Ivy Leaves

Julie Day — Fri, 31 Oct 2008 13:00:57 +0000

“Our outdoor potted ivy plant has holes in the leaves. How do we solve this problem?” -Julie A.

If you don’t have any other visible evidence of disease or infestation (such as discoloration of leaves, curled leaves, spots, or the like), it sounds like something is simply eating the leaves. Likely culprits are caterpillars, slugs, or beetles. All three should be visible to the naked eye by inspecting your plant at various times of the day (including after dark to catch slugs on the move).

Control measures include hand-picking, baiting/trapping, natural repellents, bacterial poisons, insect predators, or application of pesticide sprays, pellets, or powders. Once you’ve identified your culprit, you can choose a product or control method to target it.

Grapefruit Slug Control

When to Replant a Tree After Having a Stump Removed

Julie Day — Tue, 28 Oct 2008 15:00:44 +0000

“We just had a tree removed and the stump ground out. I would like to replace it with another tree ASAP, but my wife would like to wait until next year to replant. Can you help us decide?” -Paul

There are two things to consider when deciding whether to replant a tree after grinding out a stump. First, the root system of the old tree spreads beyond the grinding hole, and even if you opt for the extra-deep stump grinding service designed for “replanting,” there will be large roots that may take years to decompose. Those roots can interfere with the root system of your new tree, possibly affecting its growth and health.

Second, the ecology of that piece of ground is going to keep changing for a few years, as microorganisms go to work breaking down the old tree roots. A new tree will have to compete with these microorganisms for nutrients and resources within the soil, which will make it more difficult for your new tree to thrive.

The best approach if you would like to plant a tree immediately is to choose a new spot at least five feet from the old site. This will improve your tree’s chances of thriving. If you do decide to replant in the same spot, waiting one year may not be long enough to break down those old roots completely, so wait as long as you can and then offer extra TLC to the new tree until it established.

Protecting Stucco from a Lawn Trimmer or Edger

Julie Day — Thu, 23 Oct 2008 17:13:13 +0000

“What is an inexpensive way to put a border around my house to avoid the damage to my stucco done by a lawn trimmer or edger?” -Pat

Certainly, if you have stucco on your home’s exterior, you don’t want to use any kind of destructive lawn equipment on it that may damage the finish. Yet, if you do not have planting beds around your house, you also want the lawn to have a nice, neat edge where it meets the house. Your idea of a border is great, because it will create a buffer that keeps lawn equipment at a safe distance. Here are some budget-conscious ideas for a border:

Create an almost-invisible border about one foot wide, by removing the grass, putting down landscape fabric (you can buy a small roll and cut it lengthwise into one-foot strips), then applying gravel or stone that matches your stucco or foundation color. From a distance, it will barely be seen, but you’ll have a safe buffer between the lawn and the house. If you make sure the gravel is at ground level, you could mow right over the edge and not even need to use a trimmer or edger.

This type of narrow stone border, shown here separating grass and mulch, would also be attractive next to stucco.

For a more decorative border, consider creating larger mulch beds that follow the natural curves of your yard. You’ll be surprised how much this type of border will enhance the yard – even without planting any shrubs or flowers, it will give the appearance of pleasing lines and curves that will show off your lawn. If you use mulch, make sure to leave a few inches between the mulch and stucco, to prevent the stucco from wicking moisture into your house’s wooden structure.
Move the lawn edge away from the house a few inches, and treat the area between the edge and the house with an herbicide to kill the grass. Again, the few inches of bare ground will barely be visible, but you’ll probably have to reapply the herbicide every so often.
Install commercial lawn edging against your house, to protect the stucco surface. Lawn edging is available in metal, stone, plastic, and wood, with many economical choices available. Make sure you choose a product that is durable enough to withstand the lawn trimmer or edger.
Line your foundation with stone (or landscape timbers, though they will not last as long), or have a commercial edging company install a permanent concrete edge (which looks like a curb) around your house to protect the stucco. This is a more expensive, yet long-lasting, solution.

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Dealing with Storm Damage to Trees

Julie Day — Wed, 15 Oct 2008 20:00:20 +0000

“I have a young tree growing in front of my home, and a windstorm came through and broke off the top of the tree. What should I do? Will it still grow?” -Joe

Whether or not a broken tree can be saved depends on the type of tree and the extent of the damage. Many trees—especially young ones—can recover from storm damage, just as they can recover from severe pruning. Other types of trees (including many conifers) have a hard time regrowing their rounded tops once they’ve been broken.

Without knowing the type of tree, I’d suggest the following: if the main trunk is intact, and there are some strong branches growing in the direction of the tree’s natural shape, as well as some room for more branches to grow, I’d recommend leaving it to see if it will recover. Prune the broken limbs back to a healthy branch, making your cut just outside the branch collar. The branch collar is the raised area where the branch meets the stem, and it should be left intact. It’s usually not necessary to apply any sealants to the wound as trees have their own healing system.

If the overall shape and beauty of the tree is destroyed with no sturdy trunk or branches left, it’s less likely to ever be the tree you hoped for, so be prepared to replace it in the next planting season. Before replacing it, however, you may want to have it evaluated by an arborist to make sure.

For more information check out First Aid for Storm-Damaged Trees from the University of Missouri Extension and Managing Storm-Damaged Trees from the Oklahoma Cooperative Extension Service.

How to Repair a Leaking Buried Pipe

Julie Day — Tue, 07 Oct 2008 18:23:45 +0000

“I have an outdoor leaking water pipe underground. How do I repair it?” -Larry

Assuming that you’ve located the site of the leak, and it’s not a water main but a pipe on the meter side of your house, the DIY option would be to dig a trench around the leak, repair the pipe, refill the hole, and patch the damage to your landscape. While fairly straightforward, it certainly won’t be easy (or clean) work.

If you don’t want to disturb your landscape, can’t find the source of the leak, or if the leak is in an inaccessible spot such as under a driveway, you may want to consider calling for reinforcements. Some plumbing contractors offer “trenchless” underground pipe repair involving resins and patches that can be inserted on the pipe from one end then moved into place.

If you decide to repair the leak yourself, keep these tips in mind:

Plan ahead: If this is the main supply line to your house, you’ll have to keep your water turned off while repairs are underway.
Building codes: Find out the current building codes regarding underground plumbing and get advice about the type of repair materials that work best and resist corrosion in your soil.
Buried utility lines: Find out the location of any underground gas lines and buried cables before you start digging!
Prepare for the worst: The pipe may be deteriorated and have to be replaced entirely. While you may not want to tackle that big a job, the time spent diagnosing the situation will save you time and money in the long run.
Digging: Make the trench large enough to access at least a foot of pipe on each side of the leak and a foot underneath it. You need room to work, and you need to be able to inspect the area to find out what may have caused the leak. Work carefully and slowly, making sure you don’t make the problem worse by hitting the pipe with a shovel.
Repairing Pipe: Once you’ve uncovered the pipe, measure the outside diameter and determine the type (PVC, copper, steel, etc.). You may even want to take a photo of it with you. Ask your local plumbing supply for help choosing the correct repair fittings. A knowledgeable sales associate can help you walk away with exactly what you need, including instructions.

Careful preparation and the proper tools, can make the difference between a plumbing repair and a plumbing nightmare, but even the best planned jobs can hit snags, so give yourself plenty of time.

Good luck!

How to Repair a Leaking Water Heater Pressure Relief Valve

How to Spread St. Augustine Grass

Julie Day — Fri, 26 Sep 2008 11:00:49 +0000

“Is there something I can do to make my St. Augustine grass spread over the rest of the yard more quickly?” -Joe

St. Augustine grass spreads both by rhizomes and stolons, meaning that it sends out runners both above and below ground. It’s normally a very aggressive spreader – in fact, most of the time I hear questions about how to stop it! St. Augustine is a warm-season grass that grows well in full sun and moist soil in warm, coastal areas.

If you have large bare spots, you may want to propagate the grass instead of waiting for it to spread. Because the seeds are so difficult to collect, St. Augustine is commercially available only as plugs, sprigs, or sod. You can buy these, or you can spread it yourself by digging small plugs or sprigs from an established area and planting them in the bare spots.

St. Augustine responds well to nitrogen fertilizer, but it’s vulnerable to over-fertilization. Use a mixture of instant and slow-release fertilizers for best results, at a rate of no more than 1 lb of nitrogen per 1000 square feet per month during the growing season (spring to early fall). Check with your garden center for fertilizers specific to St. Augustine grass.

Choosing Grass for Your Climate