Finding a gift for that special someone can be hard. When that special someone seemingly has everything, that task gets even harder. But holiday shoppers find themselves in that familiar position every year, wherein one or two people on their list prove harder to shop for than everyone else combined.

But a hard to shop for loved one could create the ideal gifting opportunity this holiday season. In lieu of scouring the malls for that perfect gift, give the gift of a hobby this holiday season. Enroll a loved one in a woodworking class to further cultivate an existing hobby or even inspire a new one. Such classes are available to hobbyists of all ages and experience levels, and can truly become a gift that keeps on giving.

Beginners

For that special someone who truly does have everything, a new hobby can be the ideal gift. In such cases, a beginner’s course can help a loved one get their feet wet and see if a given hobby is a good fit. Woodcraft’s “Carving 101,” for example, allows those with a potential interest in carving the chance to learn this fulfilling art from a host of expert carvers. Such classes require no previous skill or experience, and students learn different cutting techniques that encourage them to add shape and form to the basswood carving blank that’s provided at the onset of class.

Intermediate

Not all hobbyists are necessarily wet behind the ears. Some have past work experience and might have moved on but maintained an interest or passion for a given skill. To holiday shoppers, the intermediate level hobbyist presents the perfect gifting opportunity. For instance, a spouse, brother or in-law who was interested in woodworking as a child but lost touch with the hobby would no doubt find an intermediate woodworking class a welcomed chance to reconnect with a hobby they once enjoyed.

A class on woodturning, which is where you make objects on a spinning lathe, can result in the creation of ornaments and small bowls that will inevitably become family heirlooms or handy items like an ice cream scoop, garden spade or garden fork.

Additionally, a course such as Woodcraft’s “Intermediate Carving” is perfect for the hobbyist who still remembers the basics but wants to take his or her carving skills to the next level. Over a 10-week period, students will learn more complicated techniques while more extensively developing a new hobby or reconnecting with a previous favorite pastime.

Experts

Because hobbyists come in all shapes, sizes and experience levels, a course that allows a weekend warrior to become an expert at his or her passion can also be a great gift this holiday season. What’s more, an expert class doesn’t have to require much time and can actually be a great way to help that special someone combine two passions.

Woodcraft also offers detailed project plans which could make a great gift in their own right for the intermediate-to-experienced woodworker. From outdoor projects, like an Adirondack chair, garden arbor, bench or planter to more artful items, like a quilt rack, heart shaped jewelry box or an ornate container for steak knives or silverware, these detailed plans provide easy-to-understand instructions on how to create them.

For more information about Woodcraft, which has more than 80 stores nationwide, their products, or to find a class near you, visit www.woodcraft.com.

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Sawmill owner, Roy Hyde, recycles fallen trees into lumber for custom woodworking projects. This environmentally friendly process keeps valuable timber out of the landfill while providing unusual species of wood in sizes not often found at the local lumber yard.

I’m planning on finishing our basement myself at little at a time. How should I go about it? -Tony

Hi Tony,

When finishing a basement, you should tackle the job in this order:

1. Check your local building codes for requirements such as ceiling height, stair proportions, and the location and size of egress windows and doors.
2. Make sure the envelope around your basement is waterproof, and correct any moisture or humidity problems that may exist.
3. Test the basement for the presence of radon gas, and take steps to lower it if needed.
4. Draw a detailed plan for the space.
5. Frame up any interior walls.
6. Rough in the wiring, plumbing, and ductwork.
7. Hang and finish the drywall on ceiling and walls.
8. Install interior door units.
9. Install trim molding.
10. Paint walls and trim.
11. Install any built-in cabinets.
12. Finish up plumbing and wiring.
13. Install flooring.

Good luck with your project,

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Trying to find the right glue at your local home improvement store these days can be a bit overwhelming. There are so many to choose from, and picking the wrong one can lead to a really sticky situation. Or not, which could be even worse. The trick is to match the glue to the job at hand, but that’s not always as simple as it sounds. Here’s a breakdown of the different types that are available to help you get it right.

Yellow and White Glue

A kissing cousin to school glue, yellow glue is mainly used for woodworking. It’s available for interior use, as well as in moisture resistant and even waterproof versions. Work pieces have to be clamped, but the clamps can be removed in about an hour. White glue is similar to yellow but is less resistant to moisture and takes longer to cure.

Both yellow and white glues are non-toxic and can be cleaned up with water and a damp rag. Be sure to sand unfinished work thoroughly before finishing, as any glue residue will prevent stains and clear finishes from penetrating the wood.

Instant Glue

Sold under brand names like Super Glue and Krazy Glue, this is the one to keep on hand for household emergencies. Drop a vase, step on your child’s favorite toy, or break a corner off a ceramic picture frame, and you’ll be glad you’ve got a tube on hand. It sets up almost instantly and creates a nearly invisible bond on glass, metal, porcelain, fabric, wood and rigid plastic.

Since it can stick your fingers together in an instant as well, keep a bottle of acetone based nail polish remover on hand to free them. Instant glue has a tendency to dry out, so store it tightly capped (and clearly marked) in the refrigerator between uses. If you have young children, put the tube in an old childproof prescription bottle first to keep it out of curious hands.

Polyurethane Glue

Though it’s the new kid on the block, polyurethane glue has really taken off in recent years. Sold under the brand name Gorilla Glue, among others, it is waterproof and can be used to bond everything from wood, fiberglass, and foam to stone, metal, and brick.

Polyurethane glue expands as it cures, allowing it to fill cracks and gaps. The downside is that it tends to ooze out if you use too much, and the work pieces have to remain clamped for several hours. Storing the bottle upside down will help keep the glue from solidifying between uses.

Epoxy Glue

While a little messy and difficult to use, epoxy glue provides an extremely durable, waterproof bond for many materials including wood, metal, glass, stone, and certain plastics.

Epoxy comes in two parts, a resin and a catalyst, which produce a chemical reaction when mixed together. This makes it great for filling gaps, since it hardens into a solid mass. Epoxy comes in setting times ranging from a few minutes to an hour and is available as a dual-cartridge syringe, in tubes, or as putty. Equal parts of the glue are mixed with a clean plastic knife or Popsicle stick then quickly applied before it has time to set. Once cured, epoxy can be drilled, sanded, or painted.

Spray Adhesive

These aerosol cans of adhesive are great for attaching paper and fabric since it doesn’t soak through porous materials like liquid glue would. To use, spray a coat to the surface and wait a minute for it to become tacky before attaching the paper or fabric. For a stronger bond, spray the adhesive on both surfaces first.

Contact Cement

Used mainly to glue plastic laminates and veneer to plywood, contact cement comes in both solvent and water based versions. Roll or brush the adhesive on both surfaces and allow it to dry for the recommended time before carefully bringing the two pieces together. As the name implies, the cement bonds on contact and the pieces cannot be repositioned once they have touched. A rubber roller is used to press the two surfaces firmly together.

Construction Adhesive

While these thick waterproof adhesives are often used to attach plywood, drywall, and paneling to framing; they’re also suitable for projects around the home as well. Construction adhesives come in a tube and are applied with a caulking gun. Keep the nozzle tightly capped to prevent the glue from drying out.

Hot Glue

This thermoplastic adhesive comes in cylindrical sticks that are heated in an electric glue gun. It is applied by pulling the trigger on the gun, and the pieces must be quickly assembled before the hot plastic cools. While it can be used with a variety of materials, hot glue does not produce very strong adhesion and is mainly useful for craft projects and temporary bonds.

Use hot glue with caution, particularly around children. If you get it on your skin, it will cause a painful burn that you will not soon forget.

Glue Safety

Almost all the glues described here contain potentially dangerous and toxic chemicals, so be sure to follow the instructions carefully. Avoid contact with the skin, and work in a well ventilated area to keep from breathing the fumes. Some are highly flammable and should not be used without proper ventilation or around possible ignition sources.

Final Thoughts

The only thing worse than using the wrong glue, is using a glue that has lost its punch, so be sure and check the expiration date on the container and apply only within the temperature range specified in the directions.

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In the second of our two-part series, we complete the process of adding a 500-square-foot sunroom, two porches, a covered deck, and a swimming pool to this house with a beautiful view overlooking Mobile Bay on the Alabama Gulf Coast.

Since the home is located on the water in an area prone to hurricanes, we’ve taken extra precautions to beef up the construction above and beyond the stringent building codes put in place following Hurricane Katrina.

Impact Resistant Windows

On Room with a View, Part 1, we poured the foundation, framed up the addition, and installed ImpactGard impact resistant windows from JELD-WEN Window & Doors to prevent wind damage from hurricanes. ImpactGard laminated glass is composed of an interlayer of plastic sandwiched between two sheets of glass, allowing it to stand up to high winds and impact from flying debris.

HVAC System

Once the addition had been framed up, the wiring was roughed in for the electrical and home entertainment systems. Ductwork for the heating and cooling system was installed, and the old compressor replaced with a larger unit to handle the extra load.

Insulation

To reduce air infiltration, holes and cracks in the walls were filled with foam, then cellulose insulation was sprayed in the walls. The insulation is made from 85% recycled newspapers with an adhesive added to allow it to adhere to the wall cavity. Once it was dry, a power roller was used to remove any excess insulation, which could then be scooped up and reused.

Trim

An ached entrance was added between the existing house and sunroom to mirror the arches on the porch.

After the drywall had been hung, the various trim moldings were installed. Care was taken to match the beads and bevels used on the custom made JELD-WEN windows with other moldings in the room.

Flooring

The pine floors in the sunroom were carefully spliced into the flooring of the existing house. The new floor included an intricate inlaid pattern of contrasting wood.

Stucco

The exterior of the addition was covered with cement backer board, followed by a base coat of stucco. Fiberglass mesh was embedded in the stucco to reinforce seams and detail moldings. A second coat of tinted stucco was then applied to the walls of the existing house and addition.

Porches and Deck

The subfloor on the matching screened porches was covered with cement backer board followed by tile. Porcelain tile were used since they aren’t as porous as ceramic. This makes them less likely to absorb water and crack during freezing weather.

The ceilings of the porches and covered deck were covered with v-groove, 1”x 6” pine boards. The wood was given a light stain and coated with a clear finish for a natural look.

The covered deck that connected the addition to the pool was floored with 5/4” pressure treated pine.

Railing and Steps

Pressure treated steps were constructed to provide access from the pool area to the lawn below. Copper caps on the railing posts not only add a decorative touch but prevent rainwater from being absorbed into the end grain of the posts.

Pool

Once the concrete for the pool had set, a coat of plaster was troweled on the sides and bottom to give a smooth, finished appearance. A stone waterfall, cascading from the jetted soaking tub into the main pool, added a distinctive design element.

To keep the pool area free from unwanted leaves and insects, a custom built, aluminum framework—made by City Funrooms of Pensacola, Florida—was erected over the entire pool and covered with durable screening.

Pool House

A pool house was added to provide and a bathroom and changing facilities without having to go into the house. The privacy fence for the outside shower was made from a dense tropical wood called ipê which is naturally resistant to rot and decay.

Landscaping

A retaining wall made from pressure treated wood was built to stabilize the steep slope below the pool. Ground cover and flowers were planted to make the area attractive and low maintenance while sod was put down on the rest of the area.

The completed addition and pool really enhance the look and functionality of the house. With a reinforced foundation, beefed up framing, and impact resistant windows, the room with a view should stand up to whatever Mother Nature dishes out.

For more information, go to Room with a View.

Other Tips from This Episode

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This house on the Alabama Gulf Coast has a beautiful view of Mobile Bay, but the homeowners’ haven’t been able to enjoy it since Hurricane Katrina destroyed their deck in 2005. To remedy the problem, we’re adding a 500-square-foot addition—along with two porches, a deck, and a swimming pool.

The scenic view comes with a price, since the addition must be built strong enough to stand up to the hurricanes that often sweep through the area. Extra planning and beefed up construction are needed to try and keep history from repeating itself. In addition, stringent new building codes must be followed and permissions secured in order for the work to proceed.

Foundation

Once the location for the addition had been laid out, excavation on the foundation began. A shallow trench was dug to guide the backhoe which removed the bulk of the dirt. When excavation was compete, reinforcing rods were cut to fit and the footings poured.

Since the lot sloped down to the water, a high concrete block foundation wall was needed to make the addition level with the existing house. Rather than using standard concrete block covered with brick, split-faced blocks were used to give the wall a finished appearance.

Once the blocks had been laid, the walls were filled with concrete to further strengthen them against a storm surge. Steel straps were added to the concrete to tie the foundation directly to the wood framing for the floor.

Swimming Pool

Excavation for the swimming pool next to the addition was done at the same time as the other foundation work.

After the shape of the pool had been established, steel reinforcement was used to add strength to the walls, and the concrete for the bottom and sides was applied. The coping around the edge of the pool was covered with tile and topped with stone.

Floor Framing

When the concrete in the foundation walls had set, the framing of the addition began. The heavy duty 18’ long floor joists were put in place, followed by the subfloor.

Wall Framing

The walls for the addition were framed and raised next. Since much of the main wall facing the water was composed of three 9’x 9’ window units, it was important to make the framing between them as strong as possible.

The steel straps that had been embedded in the concrete foundation were attached to the wood framing to tie the entire structure together. Once the walls were in place, framing of the ceiling and roof could begin.

Ceiling Framing

The ceiling joists and rafters add strength to the overall structure of a building, which can make a real difference when faced with the possibility of winds over 100 miles per hour during a hurricane.

Laminated beams were used to span the width of the addition and tie the walls to the main structure of the house. Ceiling joists were then installed at right angles to the heavy beams to give additional support and provide a way to attach the drywall for the ceiling.

Roof Framing

The ridge board for the roof attached to the main roof of the house. Due to their long length, the rafters had to be pieced together from two pieces of lumber joined together with a diagonal scarf joint and reinforced on each side with plywood gussets.

The rafters were supported every few feet by vertical struts attached to the ceiling joists, along with steel hurricane straps to tie each one to the walls. To keep the overhang on the gable end of the roof from damaging the remainder of the roof in high winds, it was built to break away if the wind is too strong.

Once all the framing was complete, the roof was decked in plywood and covered with asphalt shingles that matched the roof on the rest of the house.

Windows and Doors

When building in hurricane prone areas, the type of windows used plays an important role in determining whether the home will survive a storm. For maximum protection, special laminated ImpactGard glass from JELD-WEN Windows & Doors was used for the addition. ImpactGard glass has an interlayer of plastic sandwiched between two sheets of glass to keep the window intact during high winds or windblown debris.

Since the large window units for this project weighed 600 pounds each, installing them took quite a bit of effort. Once they had been set in place, the window and door units were carefully leveled and secured to the framing. The flange around the outside was then sealed with a self-adhesive flashing material for a watertight seal.

For more information, go to Room with a View.

Other Tips from This Episode

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This easy to build wooden outdoor bench is made from a pressure treated wood and assembled using corrosion resistant screws to stand up to the elements. It’s perfect on a back porch for taking off muddy shoes before coming inside. Here’s how to go about making it.

Tools:

• Tape measure and pencil
• Square
• Safety glasses and ear plugs
• Circular saw
• Jigsaw
• Drill/driver (drill and screwdriver bits, countersink)

Materials:

• 1 – 2” x 12” x 8’ pressure treated pine
• 1 – 2” x 4” x 4’ pressure treated pine
• Medium grit sandpaper
• Corrosion resistant deck screws

Cutting List:

• Legs: 2 – 1½” x 11” x 16”
• Top: 1 – 1½” x 11” x 48”
• Brace: 1 – 1½” x 3½” x 39”

Building the Bench

Start by cutting the top and legs square and to length. Next, set your circular saw for a 14° angle, and bevel the top and bottom of the legs so they flair out from each end of the bench and rest firmly on the floor. The top and bottom cuts on the legs should be parallel with each other.

Reset the angle on your saw to square and rip 2” off the top edge of each side of the legs so they are 7” wide at the top and 11” wide at the bottom.

Use a gallon paint can to mark a semicircle on the center of the bottom of each leg, and cut it out with a jigsaw.

Use a quart paint can to mark each of the corners of the top and round them off with a jigsaw.

Measure 4” in from each end of the bench, align the outside of the legs to the mark, and attach the legs to the top from the inside using screws.

Cut a matching 14° angle on each end of the 2”x 4” brace. Fit the brace in place so that it’s centered between the legs and flush with the bottom of the top. Screw the brace to the legs and top, countersinking the screws so they are flush with the top.

Round the edges of the top with sandpaper or a roundover bit in a router.

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I’m always looking around the house for extra storage space. From the basement to the attic, I’ve scoured every square inch searching for spaces that I could convert to storage. However, I learned that sometimes the answer is right in front of you.

A few years ago, my son Chris had run out of shelves for his growing book collection. But his 10’x 12’ room already housed a bunk bed, computer desk, stereo cabinet, two large windows and a closet, so there wasn’t any room for a freestanding bookcase or wall-mounted shelving. Then I stumbled upon a novel idea:

I cut a hole through the end wall of his closet and installed a built-in bookcase. The bookcase is only about 9” deep x 18” wide x 40” high, but its four shelves hold an impressive number of books. And best of all, it doesn’t take up a single square inch of floor space.

I built the bookcase from 1”x 10” pine and used 1/4” plywood for the back. The shelves are set into dadoes routed into the sides. After screwing the bookcase into the hole in the closet wall, I trimmed around it with Colonial casing to give the project a clean, built-in look.

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When installing arched door units, extend the plywood sheathing over the rough opening. Position the door unit against the wall, mark the opening around it, and cut the curved opening to size using a sabre saw.

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Recycling consists of a lot more than just remembering to put your newspapers by the curb every week. Another important component is reusing existing items rather than throwing them away or buying new ones.

Here are a few nifty ideas for fixing up old items that might be cluttering up your closet or garage. Used building materials and other household items are also available at bargain prices through classified ads, local salvage companies, Goodwill stores, The Freecycle Network and Habitat for Humanity ReStores.

Refinishing Furniture

Refinishing furniture is a great way to give new life to an old table or chair. For best results, read and follow the instructions and safety information on the stripper and finish.

Apply stripper to furniture.         Remove residue.               Clean with solvent.

To refinish a piece of furniture:

• Apply liquid stripper and allow it to remain on the surface for the recommended time.
• When the finish has softened, use a putty knife with rounded edges to remove the bulk of the old finish.
• Take off the remaining finish and stripper using steel wool or a plastic scouring pad dipped in the recommended solvent.
• Sand the surface thoroughly starting with coarse sandpaper (80-100 grit) and working up to fine (180-220 grit). Sand with the grain when possible.
• Stain the piece and allow to dry. Applying stain with a rag works best.
• Finish with several coats of a clear finish such as polyurethane.

  Sand stripped furniture.             Stain furniture.                   Finish furniture.

Turn Fallen Trees into Lumber

Small, locally owned sawmills are a great way to recycle fallen trees into lumber. Not only does this keep them out of the landfill, but it can provide unusual species of wood in sizes not commonly available for unique woodworking projects.

Recycled Punching Bag

You don’t have to send your kids to a gym to find a punching bag to take out their frustrations. With a little imagination and some scrap materials, you can make one yourself using scrap pipe and plywood, an old carpet pad, and duct tape.

To make a punching bag:

• Cut a piece of 4” PVC pipe several inches longer than the desired length of the punching bag.
• Cut out a round piece of plywood for the base approximately 10” in diameter, using the bottom of a 5-gallon bucket as a pattern.
• Cut a plywood disk the interior diameter of the pipe and attach it to the center of the base.
• Screw the bottom end of the pipe to the plywood disk.

     Attach pipe to base.         Roll carpet pad on pipe.       Cover pad with tape.

• Cut the carpet pad to the desired width using a utility knife.
• Attach the pad to the pipe with duct tape.
• Roll the pad onto the pipe until the thickness equals the diameter of the base.
• Wrap duct tape around the pad until it’s completely covered.
• Drill holes in the top end of the pipe, and hang it on a rope from an eye hook screwed to a joist in the ceiling.

Mud Room Shoe Caddy

This handy shoe caddy is perfect for organizing the shoes in your mud room or garage. All you need to make it is some scrap lumber, recycled 5-gallon buckets, and leftover paint.

To make a shoe caddy:

• Decide on the layout for the buckets. We used six buckets in a triangular configuration, but other groupings work as well.
• Cut the lips off the buckets with a sabre saw, using the rim as a fence, then sand off any rough edges.
• Assemble the buckets into the pattern desired, using spring clamps to hold them together.

      Cut rim off buckets.             Assemble frame.           Attach buckets to frame.

• Screw the bottoms of the buckets to a piece of plywood.
• Cut and assemble a wooden frame so it fits tightly around the buckets.
• Sand and paint the frame.
• Fit the frame over the buckets, and screw the sides of the buckets to it.

Desk from Reused Door

There are a number of useful items you can make from old doors, including headboard and room dividers. For our project, we turned a door into a functional and cool looking computer desk with bookshelves.

To turn an old door into a desk or bookcase:

• Remove the hinges, lockset, and other hardware from the door.
• Fill any large holes with solid wood and smaller holes using auto body filler.
• Plane or sand the filler flush with the surface of the door, and sand the door smooth.
• Cut the desktop and shelves to size.
• Rout a molding pattern on three sides of the desktop and shelves.
• Attach wooden shelf brackets (corbels) to the bottom of the desktop and shelves.
• Mount the desktop and shelves on the door using glue, nails, and screws.
• Cut and round 2” x 6” x 2’ support legs and attach at right angles to the sides of the door.
• Attach a coat rack or hooks to the back of door.

      Patch holes in door.             Attach brackets.                     Attach base.

Other Tips from This Episode

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