To cut door jambs so flooring will fit under them, turn a piece of flooring over to use as a guide. Lay a handsaw flat on top of the flooring and saw through the jamb.

Auto body filler works great for repairing rotten spots in wood since it hardens in a matter of minutes and can be used to fill large areas.

Start by using a chisel to remove the rotten wood. If the hole is large, drive a few nails or screws below the finished surface to give the filler something to grab onto. Next, mix up a batch of filler, and apply it to the hole following the safety instructions on the can. It sets quickly, so don’t mix up more than you can use in a minute or two. Once the filler has set for a few minutes—but before it has time to get really hard—use a sharp chisel or hand plane to remove any excess, then sand it smooth and finish.

While hanging drywall can seem intimidating, with the right tools and techniques, it’s not as difficult as you might imagine. Drywall—also known as wallboard, plasterboard, and by the trade name Sheetrock®—is made from gypsum cement that is covered with paper to give it added strength and a smooth surface.

Drywall comes in thicknesses ranging from ¼” to ¾”, with ½” being the most common. Standard sizes are 4’ x 8’ and 4’x 12’ though 54” widths are available for use on 9’ ceilings. While longer sheets are heavier and hard to deal with, they reduce the number of joints, making finishing easier. Since lifting heavy sheets can be a challenge, consider renting a drywall lift, such as PanelLift, when hanging ceilings.

Apply drywall to the ceiling first then the walls, with long sides at right angles to the framing and the ends centered on studs.

Drywall Tools

Only a few simple tools are needed to cut drywall:

• Measuring tape
• Utility knife
• Straight edge
• Drywall saw
• Drywall keyhole saw
• Drywall rasp or sanding block

Cutting Drywall

Drywall can be cut by either scoring or sawing. Scoring is best for cutting sheets to length or width while sawing is used to cut holes and openings for windows and doors.

Scoring

Scoring is the easiest and least messy method of cutting drywall. Using a straight edge or chalk line as a guide, cut through the paper and into the gypsum on the face side of the sheet with a sharp utility knife.

While supporting the sheet on the back, apply pressure to the face, causing the piece to break cleanly along the joint.

Score the paper on the back with the utility knife to compete the cut.

If needed, use a drywall rasp or sanding block to smooth the cut edge.

Sawing

A drywall saw is used to make cuts for windows and doors while a smaller keyhole saw is perfect for cutting around electrical boxes and other small openings. Make the cuts from the front side when possible to keep from roughing up the paper on the face.

When marking the locations for cuts, follow the old carpenter’s adage of measuring twice and cutting once to avoid making costly mistakes.

Door and Window Cutouts

Since drywall is cut around doors and windows before the casings are attached, a perfect fit isn’t necessary. While professional drywall hangers often use a special high-speed rotary tool to cut around openings with the sheet in place, most do-it-yourself projects will involve measuring and cutting the sheet before it is installed.

Start by measuring horizontally from the corner of the room to the edge of the jamb and transfer the measurement to the drywall. Mark the waste side with an “X” to keep from accidentally cutting the wrong piece. Next, measure vertically down from the ceiling or up from floor and transfer that measurement to the sheet as well.

Mark the drywall on the face with a straightedge and make the shorter of the two cuts with the drywall saw. Next, score the other line and snap off the cut piece.

Electrical Box Cutouts

The holes for electrical boxes need to be a tighter fit than those around windows and doors. The most common method is to measure and mark the location of the cutouts, then draw the outline on the sheet using an extra electrical box as a guide.

Another method is to rub a tube of lipstick around the edge of the box, hold the sheet in place, and press it against the box to transfer the outline to the drywall.

Once the location has been marked, cut around it with a keyhole saw by plunging the sharp point into the sheet. Hold the blade at an angle so the cutout is slightly larger on the back than on the front.

Put the sheet in place and use a utility knife to adjust the fit around the box if needed, keeping the gap 1/8” or less.

Hanging Drywall

Drywall can either be nailed or attached using drywall screws. While nailing is faster, nails tend to work out over time, leaving unsightly bulges in the finished wall. Drywall screws not only stay put, but hold better, so not as many are needed.

Use 1¼” ring shank drywall nails when nailing ½” drywall. A crown-head hammer is used to drive the nails below the surface and denting the drywall without tearing the paper. Position nails ½” from the edge and every 7” for ceilings and 8” for walls.

When attaching drywall with screws, use 1¼” bungle head drywall screws. A drill equipped with an adjustable clutch is used to drive the screws just below the surface without breaking the paper.

Locate screws ½” in from the edges and every 12” for ceilings and 16” for walls. Construction adhesive can be applied to the studs first to give an even stronger bond while reducing the number of screws or nails.

Drywall Tips

Here are a few helpful tips to make your drywall project go more smoothly:

• Have a helper on hand to help with the heavy lifting.
• Use a pencil for marking, since a pen or marker may bleed through paint.
• Keep a sharp blade in the utility knife to cut the paper cleanly.
• Have a trash can nearby for scraps.
• Take breaks and don’t try to do too much, since most mistakes occur when you’re tired.

Doing a good job hanging the drywall will result in less work finishing and a better looking completed project.

Related Articles

• Cutting Drywall Around Outlet Boxes

It’s easy to make a mistake when measuring and marking the location of electrical outlets on drywall. To prevent this from happening, coat the edge of the outlet box with brightly colored lipstick.

Position the sheet of wallboard in place, and push it firmly up against the outlet box.

This transfers the lipstick to the drywall, leaving an outline of the box on the back of the sheet.

Using a drywall keyhole saw, cut around the outside of the line.

Slide the sheet of drywall in place for a perfect fit every time.

Related Articles

• How to Cut and Hang Drywall

An easy way to drill a hole to a set depth is to simply wrap a piece of making tape around the drill bit and stick the two ends together to form a “flag” on one side of the bit.

Stop drilling when the tape brushes away the shaving, indicating that the desired depth has been reached.

Since the tape will tend to wear out after a few holes, a more permanent solution is to drill a hole lengthwise through a piece of 1” x 1” stock and slide it over the drill bit to act as a stop.

Adjust the bit in the chuck so it protrudes the desired length from the end of the block, then hold the block firmly on the surface and push the drill through it into the wood until the bit bottoms out.

Installing fiber cement siding (FCS)—such as HardiePlank®—is easier than you might think, though there are some important differences from traditional wood siding. Installation instructions may vary depending on the manufacturer, and check with your local building inspector for any code requirements.

Safety First

Always follow these safety precautions when installing fiber cement siding:

• Wear safety glasses when cutting and nailing FCS.
• Use ear protection when cutting siding with a circular saw.
• Cutting FCS with a circular saw creates a large amount of dust which can lead to the incurable lung disease silicosis. Always cut siding outside and use a dust collecting saw hooked to a shop vac if possible.
• Wear a NIOSH approved N-95 dust mask or respirator when cutting FCS.

Storage and Handling

• Inspect siding carefully for damage when it arrives.
• Store off the ground, making sure it is flat and well supported.
• Keep it dry until it has been installed.
• Carry pieces on edge to prevent breaking.
• Support siding along its length when cutting.

Prep Work

• Sheath walls with plywood, oriented strand board (OSB), or foam.
• Cover sheathing with housewrap or felt paper.
• Pop chalk lines to mark the location of studs.

Cutting Siding

• Circular Saw: While this is the most common method of cutting, it produces the most dust. Use a polycrystalline diamond toothed blade made for cutting FCS. Cut from the back side using a rafter square as a guide for right angle cuts. Several pieces may be stacked and cut at the same time.
• Fiber Cement Shears: Special handheld electric shears can be used to make straight and curved cuts. An attachment called the TurboShearFC® converts an electric drill into fiber cement shears. When using shears, cut with the back of the siding facing up.
• Jigsaw: When fitted with a carbide coated blade, a jigsaw can be used to cut holes and curves. Cut from the back of the siding.
• Scoring: Fiber cement siding can be scored and snapped like drywall, though the cuts are not very smooth. Score the face of the siding then pull up to break. A carbide tipped scoring knife lasts much longer than a standard utility knife blade.

Fastening Siding

Fiber cement siding can be nailed by hand or with a pneumatic nailer. It can also be attached using corrosion resistant screws.

• Use hot-dipped galvanized or stainless steel nails.
• Nails should penetrate through the sheathing and at least 1” into studs.
• Position nails ¾” to 1” from the edge of the siding.
• Siding can either be blind nailed at the top or face nailed at the bottom.
• Use roofing nails for blind nailing and siding nails for face nailing.

Installing Trim

Begin by installing the inside and outside corners on the wall. These can be made from wood, vinyl, or thicker fiber cement products such as HardieTrim®. Corners should be at least ¼” thicker than two stacked pieces of siding to allow room for caulking.

Installing Siding

Fiber cement siding should be installed 6” or more above the grade level of the house with a 1”– 2” gap between horizontal surfaces like decks, steps, or adjacent roofs. Flash above doors and windows, leaving a ¼” gap between the flashing and siding. If you’re working alone, overlap gauges can be used to support the siding while you nail it.

Begin by attaching a 1¼” wide strip of FCS 1/8” above the bottom of the first row to provide the proper angle for the siding. Next, nail the first row of siding into the studs, leaving 1/8” gaps at the corner boards to allow for caulking. Blind nailing is preferable to face nailing, since any nail heads are hidden by the next row of siding. Nails do not need to be predrilled except near the ends.

Center joints over studs unless special metal off stud joiners are used. Joints should be butted loosely together with a 4” wide strip of 30 pound felt positioned behind each one. Make sure the felt overhangs the previous row of siding to keep water from running behind it if the caulking fails.

Each row of siding should overlap by 1¼” or more. A spacer stick with a notch cut the length of the exposed part of the siding makes alignment easy.

Use a square or level to check that the rows line up at corners. When notching the siding around doors and windows, hold it in place and mark each end. To determine the depth of the notch, hook the spacer stick on the previous row of siding and measure from the top of the stick to the window or door unit.

When cutting angles on gables, start by cutting a piece of scrap siding or wood to the proper angle then use it to mark each piece. To measure the top row of siding on horizontal eaves, hook the spacer stick on the previous row and measure up to the eave, then rip the siding to width.

Finishing

While fiber cement siding should be painted as soon as possible after installation, factory primed FCS can go as long as six months without painting. Make sure it is clean and dry before painting. Caulk joints and ends first with a high quality latex caulking. Prime bare siding and any exposed cuts then topcoat with 100% acrylic latex paint.

Manufacturer Installation Instructions:

• HardiePlank®
• CemPlank®
• CertainTeed
• MaxiPlank
• Nichiha

Since the wrought-iron column on this ranch style house was rusty and had seen better days, it was replaced with a low-maintenance fiberglass one. While the column came prefinished, it can be painted a different color if desired.

First, a temporary brace was installed to support the porch roof.

The old column was then removed by sawing it in half with a metal cutting blade in a reciprocating saw.

Next, the height was carefully measured and transferred to the column.

The hollow column was then cut to length by marking around it with a square and cutting each of the four sides with a circular saw.

The preassembled top and base moldings were slipped over the shaft and the column was set in place. The porch beam was jacked up slightly to allow the column to be positioned and checked for plumb.

Once it had been properly aligned, the brace supporting the porch beam was removed.

The base was caulked in place, while the capital at the top of the shaft was attached to the beam.

Power tools used on Today’s Homeowner with Danny Lipford® are provided by Ryobi.

I am replacing my trim around the windows and doors and also replacing the baseboard. What is the secret in getting good fits in both places?
Raymond

Raymond,

In a perfect world, all corners would be square, floors level, walls plumb, and lumber straight. Unfortunately, that is seldom the case. Like any good illusionist, a trim carpenter knows that it’s what you see that matters most. Often it’s better to leave a slight gap on the backside of a joint than attempt a perfect fit. This is particularly true of coped joints, where the back of the joint is cut away with only the front edge of the molding touching.

To install trim you’ll need a good miter saw with a quality blade, some thin strips of wood to act as fence shims, a block plane, a utility knife, and a coping saw. Start by making a few test cuts to fine-tune the angles and vertical alignment of your miter saw.

For window and door casings, miter one of the side pieces and the matching end of the top piece, checking to see if they fit tightly together when aligned to the frame. Minor adjustments can be made with a sharp block plane set to take a very thin shaving. Always plane with the grain of the miter joint, from the short edge to the long. Larger adjustments are made by recutting the joint slightly on the miter saw using a thin shim of wood held against the fence. Position the shim near the blade end of the fence if the gap in the joint is on the short inner side of the miter, and toward the far end of the fence if the gap is on the long outer end. After you have a good fit on one side of the casing, repeat the process for the other end.

Baseboards have miter cuts on outside corners and coping cuts on inside corners. Fit the longer runs first, that way any scraps can be used for shorter sections. Work from the inside corners out, installing wall to wall pieces first and saving those broken by doorways or outside corners until last. If there’s a gap on the straight cut of a coped joint, hold it in place and trace a line the width of the gap along the joint then trim to it. After the baseboards have been installed, gently tap along the sharp edge of outside miter joints with a hammer to round them over slightly and hide any gaps.

Plaster walls in older homes are often plagued by cracks and other defects such as pitting and uneven texture. If cracks are simply filled with spackling or joint compound, they have a tendency to telegraph back through. To solve this problem, apply self-adhesive fiberglass mesh drywall tape over the crack for reinforcement.

Cover the tape with several coats of joint compound to make the crack disappear. Mesh tape also helps prevent a ridge or “crown” from forming over the crack, as is often the case when traditional paper drywall tape is used.

If the walls have an uneven texture or are badly pitted, apply a thin skim coat of joint compound to the entire surface then sand the walls smooth.

To further enhance the look of the walls, an “orange peel” finish can be applied before painting. This is done by thinning the joint compound down and spraying it on the walls to even out any imperfections and give a textured look.

A pegboard wall makes a great way to hang your tools in the shop for easy access. When we had finished building the workbench across the back wall of the shop, we covered the wall space above it with pegboard.

After marking the location of the window and electrical outlets, we cut out the window opening with a circular saw and the electrical outlets using a rotary speed saw.

Once all the cuts had been made, the pegboard was nailed in place with the smooth side facing out. It was easy to nail up the pegboard, since you can see the studs through the holes.

Next, we installed a 1” x 12” shelf above the pegboard by attaching a 1” x 2” cleat along the wall and supporting it with 2” x 4” diagonal braces above the shelf to keep them out of the way.

A 1½” hole was drilled in the workbench to accommodate a dust collection hose for a miter saw that was connected to the shop vac. As a final touch, we extended the window stool so it could support a fan to provide either a cool breeze or exhaust any fumes in the shop.

Power tools used on Today’s Homeowner with Danny Lipford® were provided by Ryobi.