Quikrete has a new line of recycled concrete and asphalt products to reduce landfill waste. Quikrete Green Concrete Mix is made from 50% recycled materials while Asphalt Cold Patch contains 90% recycled asphalt from old roadways. Watch this video to find out more.

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Updating and improving the look of your home doesn’t have to put a strain on your budget. By using recycled or reused materials, along with a little imagination and creativity, you can make a big difference in your home for a very small investment. Here are seven simple DIY projects to get you started.

Where to Find Items to Reuse and Renew

There are a number of sources for used and discarded items, such as:

• Thrift stores
• Secondhand consignment shops
• Goodwill
• Salvage companies
• Habit for Humanity ReStores
• Online at The Freecycle Network
• Yard and garage sales
• Classified ads online and in newspapers
• Remodeling site dumpsters

How to Refinish a Ceiling Fan

Instead of throwing an outdated ceiling fan in the trash, consider refinishing it to make it look like new. Here’s how to go about it:

• Disassemble the fan components you plan to paint.
• Clean all the parts with denatured alcohol to remove any dust or grease.
• Rub metal surfaces with fine steel wool to remove the gloss.
• Lay all of the pieces out and spray with several light coats of spray paint for metal.
• Reassemble the fan components except the blades.
• Reattach the fan to the ceiling.
• Attach the blades and balance if needed.

How to Refurbish Old Furniture

Kendra Bennett is a homeowner who has a knack for taking old objects and transforming them into something new. She found an old credenza for $20 at a yard sale. After stripping off the black finish and refinishing it, the piece was converted into this unique conversation piece for her home.

The two cabinet doors in the center of the piece were removed and replaced by wine racks. As an accent, two wooden window frames were backed by mirrors then mounted on the wall above it. The whole project only cost $150 dollars and a little imagination.

How to Make a Fireplace Screen

To hide a fireplace from view during the summer, create a simple fireplace screen by hinging together discarded shutters found at a salvage store. Here’s how to go about it:

• Clean, sand, and make any repairs to the shutters.
• Apply two coats of interior paint and allow to dry.
• Link the shutters together with brass cabinet hinges.
• For screens of more than three shutters, install each pair of hinges on alternating sides so the screen can be folded up like an accordion when not in use.

The project was completed in less than a day for under $10.

How to Personalize a Child’s Chair

Lisa Brodie also enjoys giving new life to old pieces of furniture. Some of her favorite items are small chairs made for children. Here’s how to go about it:

• Clean the chair to make sure all of the dust and loose finish is removed.
• Apply a coat of primer and allow to dry.
• Apply two coats of paint.
• Decorate the chair as desired with contrasting colors and patterns.
• Personalize the piece with the child’s name.
• For a more durable finish, apply a final coat of clear finish (brushed or sprayed) to the painted surface.

How to Refinish a Wicker Chair

To make an old wicker chair new again:

• Use an air compressor to blow off dirt and dust out of cracks.
• Clean surface with a scrub brush and denatured alcohol.
• Use a hot glue gun to reattach broken or loose caning.
• Apply several light coats of spray paint, letting it dry for the recommended time between coats.
• Allow the paint to dry completely for several before using. A fan can help speed up the process.
• Store any leftover paint to use for touch up later.

How to Build a Headboard

To turn a discarded column and some leftover lumber into a headboard:

• Mark the cuts around the column with painter’s tape.
• Cut the column to length using a reciprocating saw.
• Construct a cubbyhole shadow box for the headboard from 1×6 lumber.
• Use 2×12 lumber for the feet and caps.
• Assemble the columns to the headboard.
• Paint the headboard and allow to dry.
• Use screws to attach the headboard to the wall studs.

Since all of the material used in the headboard was discarded or scrap, the project cost next to nothing.

How to Pour Concrete Stepping Stones

To make personalized concrete stepping stones for your yard:

• Cut down a 5-gallon bucket with a jigsaw to use as a mold.
• Spray lubricating oil around the inside of the mold to prevent the concrete from adhering.
• Mix up concrete and fill the mold with it.
• Smooth off the top of the concrete using a board as a screed.
• Customize the concrete while wet with handprints, decorations, or masonry dye.
• Allow concrete to dry before removing stepping stone from the mold.

Other Tips from This Episode

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• How to Paint a Wicker Chair
• Tips for Refinishing Children’s Furniture
• How to Make a Headboard from an Old Column

There are a number of different materials used to create a garden path including stone, brick, concrete, and gravel. The type of material you choose will determine how it is installed.

One approach is to place a plastic weed barrier or landscape fabric down first followed by a layer of gravel. In addition to blocking weeds, the barrier will keep the gravel from working into the soil. When using brick or concrete pavers, put down a layer of sand first, then lay out your desired pattern, and plant a ground cover between each of the pavers. Watch this video to find out more.

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How do I add square topper stones to a curved retaining wall? And how do I attach the topper stones so that they don’t get knocked off? -Paul

Those wedge-shaped stackable stones are great for building curved retaining walls, but once complete it leaves you with unsightly gaps. For a finished look, you can add topper stones, but it poses some challenges since:

• Topper stones are usually square, not wedge-shaped, so if you want a smooth top you’ll need to cut them to fit the curve. If your curve is very gradual, you might be able to get away with spreading out the small gaps so they aren’t noticeable.
• Topper stones are also a bit wider and lighter than the wall blocks, so it’s easy to kick them out of place or bump them with a lawn mower. I have topper stones on my wall, and I’m always knocking them loose and having to put them back.

Instead of my kick-and-replace method, there are better ways of finishing off your retaining wall! Try these tips.

Use a Masonry Saw

Retaining wall blocks can be cut using a masonry chisel and mallet, but for the topper stones you may want to spring for a diamond blade masonry saw such as the Edco Hardscape Saw. Similar to a wet tile saw, masonry saws make very clean, straight cuts that will give a nice finishing touch to your wall. Masonry saws can be rented at your local rental center – all you’ll need is an extension cord and a garden hose to provide lubricating water.

The bottom stones will be cut along the lines, and the top one will be left square.

How to Measure the Cut

If you enjoy geometry, you can cut each stone at an angle to curve along your wall. For a faster job that looks just as neat, try this approach:

• Step 1: At the beginning of your wall, place stones #1 and #3 in their places. You’re going to be cutting both of these.
• Step 2: Lay stone #2 on top of them, with the front corners lined up. You’re NOT going to be cutting this stone, you’re just using it as a cutting pattern.
• Step 3: Draw lines on stones #1 and #3 where the top stone overlaps them.
• Step 4: Cut stones #1 and #3 along your lines.
• Step 5: Replace the stones on the wall, and now stone #2 should fit neatly between them.
• Step 6: Now put stone #4 on top of stones #3 and #5, and repeat. The odd-numbered stones will be cut on both edges, and the even-numbered stones will be left uncut.

The back view shows the overlap of the stones and the cutting line being marked.

Adhere the Stones

Once your topper stones are cut and fit, you can keep them in place using masonry adhesive. Masonry adhesive usually comes in a tube for use with a caulk gun and should be available at your home improvement store. Examples include:

• Titebond Landscape Retaining Wall Adhesive
• Quikrete Polyurethane Construction Adhesive
• SRW Retaining Wall & Paver Adhesive

For a very solid wall, you can also use the adhesive to attach the stackable blocks themselves.

Further Information

• How to Build a Stackable Block Retaining Wall

Related posts:

• How to Build a Stackable Block Retaining Wall
• White Efflorescence Stains on Retaining Walls
• How to Create Personalized Stepping Stones for Your Yard

Most cracks in slabs are small expansion cracks that should not pose a problem. If the crack will show, it can be filled with a concrete repair caulk. However, if the crack is 1/4” wide or wider, and one side is higher than the other, you may have a settling problem that should be examined by a structural engineer.

To improve the looks of a concrete patio:

• Start by thoroughly cleaning the surface with a pressure washer.
• Give the concrete character by cutting a series of shallow lines into it.
• After laying out the pattern for the lines, cut them into the concrete using a circular saw equipped with a masonry blade and using a board a guide.
• Since this can generate a lot of dust, wear a respirator while cutting.
• Apply a concrete stain or paint to seal the surface and add a touch of color.

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Thompson’s Exterior Multi-Surface Cleaner with oxy-foaming action is formulated to remove dirt, mildew, and other stains from a variety of outside surfaces including wood and composite decks, concrete, masonry, and even some fabrics.

The powerful oxygen cleaner contains no bleach, making it gentle on surfaces. Apply with a pump up sprayer or watering can and then allow 5-10 minutes for the cleaner to soak. Scrub the surface with a stiff brush, then rinse it off with a hose. Thompson’s Exterior Cleaner is available at The Home Depot.

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This house on the Alabama Gulf Coast has a beautiful view of Mobile Bay, but the homeowners’ haven’t been able to enjoy it since Hurricane Katrina destroyed their deck in 2005. To remedy the problem, we’re adding a 500-square-foot addition—along with two porches, a deck, and a swimming pool.

The scenic view comes with a price, since the addition must be built strong enough to stand up to the hurricanes that often sweep through the area. Extra planning and beefed up construction are needed to try and keep history from repeating itself. In addition, stringent new building codes must be followed and permissions secured in order for the work to proceed.

Foundation

Once the location for the addition had been laid out, excavation on the foundation began. A shallow trench was dug to guide the backhoe which removed the bulk of the dirt. When excavation was compete, reinforcing rods were cut to fit and the footings poured.

Since the lot sloped down to the water, a high concrete block foundation wall was needed to make the addition level with the existing house. Rather than using standard concrete block covered with brick, split-faced blocks were used to give the wall a finished appearance.

Once the blocks had been laid, the walls were filled with concrete to further strengthen them against a storm surge. Steel straps were added to the concrete to tie the foundation directly to the wood framing for the floor.

Swimming Pool

Excavation for the swimming pool next to the addition was done at the same time as the other foundation work.

After the shape of the pool had been established, steel reinforcement was used to add strength to the walls, and the concrete for the bottom and sides was applied. The coping around the edge of the pool was covered with tile and topped with stone.

Floor Framing

When the concrete in the foundation walls had set, the framing of the addition began. The heavy duty 18’ long floor joists were put in place, followed by the subfloor.

Wall Framing

The walls for the addition were framed and raised next. Since much of the main wall facing the water was composed of three 9’x 9’ window units, it was important to make the framing between them as strong as possible.

The steel straps that had been embedded in the concrete foundation were attached to the wood framing to tie the entire structure together. Once the walls were in place, framing of the ceiling and roof could begin.

Ceiling Framing

The ceiling joists and rafters add strength to the overall structure of a building, which can make a real difference when faced with the possibility of winds over 100 miles per hour during a hurricane.

Laminated beams were used to span the width of the addition and tie the walls to the main structure of the house. Ceiling joists were then installed at right angles to the heavy beams to give additional support and provide a way to attach the drywall for the ceiling.

Roof Framing

The ridge board for the roof attached to the main roof of the house. Due to their long length, the rafters had to be pieced together from two pieces of lumber joined together with a diagonal scarf joint and reinforced on each side with plywood gussets.

The rafters were supported every few feet by vertical struts attached to the ceiling joists, along with steel hurricane straps to tie each one to the walls. To keep the overhang on the gable end of the roof from damaging the remainder of the roof in high winds, it was built to break away if the wind is too strong.

Once all the framing was complete, the roof was decked in plywood and covered with asphalt shingles that matched the roof on the rest of the house.

Windows and Doors

When building in hurricane prone areas, the type of windows used plays an important role in determining whether the home will survive a storm. For maximum protection, special laminated ImpactGard glass from JELD-WEN Windows & Doors was used for the addition. ImpactGard glass has an interlayer of plastic sandwiched between two sheets of glass to keep the window intact during high winds or windblown debris.

Since the large window units for this project weighed 600 pounds each, installing them took quite a bit of effort. Once they had been set in place, the window and door units were carefully leveled and secured to the framing. The flange around the outside was then sealed with a self-adhesive flashing material for a watertight seal.

For more information, go to Room with a View.

Other Tips from This Episode

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“I built a retaining wall out of stackable blocks last year, and they are turning white and chalky-looking. When I wet them down, the blocks look great, but when they dry out they look white again. I don’t like what I’m seeing – can you help?”
-Steve

Those powdery white stains on your blocks are likely caused by efflorescence. As concrete cures, the moisture slowly migrates to the surface of the block where it evaporates into the air. Like a candle wick, the water brings dissolved salts and minerals from within the concrete mixture. As the water evaporates, those minerals are left on the surface of your block, giving it a whitish, hazy or streaky stain.

In most cases, this problem is temporary – eventually the salts will all be removed from the concrete, and the efflorescence will stop. How long this takes depends on the ingredients with which the concrete was made, and how long it takes for the concrete to cure and dry out completely.

However, with landscape retaining walls, your blocks are constantly being exposed to ground water and hydrostatic pressure, which can force moisture (and more salts from the soil) into the blocks to later show up as efflorescence.

Efflorescence on wall at joints in the underground drainage channel.

Here are some tips for dealing with efflorescence:

• Efflorescence is ugly, but it does not affect the strength or functioning of the block.
• Normal efflorescence should stop once the concrete is completely cured. Ongoing streaky stains or cakey buildup, particularly at joints and cracks, may indicate a problem with water infiltration and drainage.
• It’s important to reduce the amount of moisture that is getting into your wall. Mortared walls should be treated on both sides with a waterproofing sealer. Non-mortared, stackable retaining walls should be backfilled with gravel, with water drainage directed off to the sides. This prevents water pressure from building up in the soil behind the wall (and forcing itself into the concrete blocks).
• Avoid pressure-washing or overly wetting your blocks. This makes them look nice at the time, but it forces water into the concrete, inviting more efflorescence.
• Clean off light stains with a dry, stiff brush, then remove the dust with a damp sponge. If you have heavy stains, try scrubbing with white vinegar. Stubborn stains can be removed with a masonry cleaning solution.
• Cleaning solutions are often specialized to address particular mineral stains. Understanding Efflorescence (EaCo Chem, PDF 8.43mb) has an illustrated guide to different types of efflorescence, as well as recommended products to address each problem.

Further Information

• Efflorescence–Prevention is Better than Cure (pavezone.com, PDF 258kb)
• How to Build a Stackable Block Retaining Wall

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• How to Build a Stackable Block Retaining Wall
• How to Cut and Install Retaining Wall Topper Stones
• How to Remove Water Stains from Furniture

Before the stucco can be applied to the exterior of a house, cement board is cut to fit and attached to the walls with screws. Trim pieces around doors and windows are cut from foam blocks with fiberglass mesh embedded in the stucco to give added strength.

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