Is it a good idea to install a TV over a fireplace? -Herb

Hi Herb,

Mounting a flat screen TV over the fireplace has become quite popular, but there are several potential problems to consider first:

• Heat: Depending on the type and design of the fireplace, it may generate more heat than the TV is designed to handle. To find out, attach a thermometer to the wall above the fireplace while a fire is burning. Temperatures over 100° F are considered too high for most sets. Check the specifications in the operating manual that came with the TV to find the maximum temperature for your set.
• Smoke: A wood burning fireplace can also emit smoke, ash, soot, and other particulate matter into the room. Since hot air rises, these contaminants will be drawn directly into your TV where they can build up and cause problems over time.
• Wiring: If the wall above the fireplace wasn’t wired for a TV, electrical and transmission wires will need to be run first. This can be especially difficult if the wall is brick. In addition, cables for accessories, such as a DVD player or home theater system, will need to be included as well.
• Viewing: Flat screen TVs are made to be viewed at eye level. When mounted higher, the screen may need to be angled downward for optimal viewing. Also, consider whether looking up at the TV for long periods of time will be comfortable.
• Anchoring: When attaching a TV to a wall, make sure it is properly anchored. This is particularly true when mounting a TV on a brick wall, which will require drilling holes with a masonry bit for plastic or lead anchors.

Good luck with your project,

Bedroom before makeover

This small bedroom received a big makeover to take advantage of every inch of the limited space. The newly renovated child’s room features a fold-down Murphy bed, built-in cabinets, a window seat complete with drawers, new closet shelving, a wall mounted TV, and an eye-catching paint job.

Bedroom after remodeling

The first step was to clear everything out the room so remodeling could begin. Next, the walls and trim were prepped for painting. Any nail holes were filled with spackling and allowed to dry before painting began.

      Installing crown molding

The electric blue and green walls—coupled with new crown molding and white trim—make a bold fashion statement. Two of the opposing walls were painted blue with green accents, while the remaining two walls reversed the color scheme with green walls.

Shelving for the closet was made from 3/4” thick x 16” wide stock and supported by 1”x 2” cleats attached to the studs in the walls. A vertical piece in the center provided support and divided the closet in two, with one side for hanging clothes and the other for storage.

            Closet shelving

The hardware and frame for the folding bed was ordered from Murphy Wall-Beds Hardware, Inc. and came with complete instructions on how to construct the cabinet and install the bed. You can also watch step-by-step installation videos online at their website to give you an idea of the process involved.

While we constructed the cabinet from 3/4” medium density fiberboard (MDF), following the cutting list and instructions that came with the hardware, ready to assemble Murphy bed cabinets are available online as well.

        Installing bed cabinet

Since Murphy bed hardware requires a precise fit, it’s important to make the cabinet to the exact dimensions given in the instructions. The cabinet was assembled with screws before being set in place.

It’s also important to attach the bed cabinet securely to the wall studs with steel angle brackets to prevent it from turning over when the bed is lowered. Make sure the cabinet is square and level before attaching it to the wall.

    Spring loaded bed hinges

Once the cabinet was ready, the heavy duty spring hardware that raises and lowers the bed was mounted on each side. The steel bed frame was assembled with a sheet of MDF on the bottom.

After the bed frame had been attached to the hinges, it was raised and lowered to make sure everything worked properly. A handle was mounted on the outside of the bed to allow for easy opening and closing.

When the bed was complete, matching bookcase cabinets were installed on either end of the wall to provide additional storage space. A window seat with two drawers finished out the wall. Colorful green curtains, a throw rug, and decorative accents tie the room together.

Finished bedroom

Other Tips from This Episode

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Around my house, fall means pumpkin carving time! Last weekend, we visited a local pumpkin patch and lugged home a carful of pumpkins for an evening of friends, mulled cider, pumpkin carving, and – of course – pumpkin cheesecake! Check out these scary guys – I’m sure they’ll keep away any Halloween goblins (and possibly frighten the mailman).

Those nifty little pumpkin-carving kits are a far cry from my childhood memories of butcher knives and triangle-eyes! The tiny little saws are much safer and make more detailed shapes, turning even reluctant artists into Picassos. The kits come with templates and ideas, or you can use the tools to create your own wicked design. Don’t forget a little biodegradable Pumpkin Fresh spray-on preserver to help your pumpkin last longer.

There are just so many things fun about pumpkin carving, whether you’re five or ninety-five. It’s creative, whimsical, and reminds us to stay young. It’s a perfect reason for friends and family to get together and play, and it’s a great way to celebrate the first chilly nights of fall. And best of all, it’s unabashed permission to make a tremendous and glorious mess. So spread out some plastic and just let the pumpkin seeds fly, and enjoy some pure old-fashioned fun. I think we could all use a little more of that!

While you’re at it, try saving and roasting the pumpkin seeds for a fireside treat. Here’s how:

• As you’re scooping out your pumpkins, separate the seeds into a bowl.
• Rinse the seeds to remove all the stringy goo, then spread them out on a towel to dry overnight.
• Toss the seeds in a bowl with a little melted butter and salt.
• Spread in a single layer on a cookie sheet and bake at 300 degrees, stirring occasionally, until they’re a nice golden brown (about 20-30 minutes, but keep an eye on them).
• For variety, you can spice them up with garlic, red pepper, or Worcestershire sauce, or stay in the holiday spirit with a little cinnamon and sugar.

For more information, check out PumpkinCarving101.com.

Old doors can be reused for a number of home improvement projects, including headboards for beds and dividers in a room. Here’s how you can convert an old door into a writing or computer desk complete with bookshelves and coat rack.

Desk Materials List:

We used a 30” wide door, but you can make the desk from whatever width door is available. If you don’t have a leftover door, you can buy a used one at a salvage yard or reuse store.

• 1 – 30” door
• 1 – 18” x 30” cabinet grade plywood (desktop)
• 2 – 7” x 30” cabinet grade plywood (bookshelves)
• 2 – 2” x 6” x 24” lumber (support feet)
• 2 – 9” x 11” premade wood brackets (desktop supports)
• 4 – 5” x 7” premade wood brackets (bookshelf supports)
• Coarse, medium, and fine grit sandpaper
• Auto body filler
• Primer and paint

Making a Desk from a Door:

• Remove old hinges and lockset from door.
• Fill hinge mortises and lockset holes with auto body filler.
• Hand plane the filler flush with the door.
• Sand the door smooth (wear respirator approved for lead paint and sand outside to prevent lead contamination).
• Cut the desktop and shelves to size.
• Rout a pattern on the bottom of three sides of the desktop and shelves.
• Attach shelf brackets to the bottom of the desktop and shelves.
• Attach desktop and shelves to door using glue, nails, and screws.
• Cut support feet to length and round corners and edges
• Attach support feet to door edges with nails and screws.
• If desired, attach a coat rack or hooks to the back of door.

      Patch holes in door.             Attach brackets.                     Attach base.

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Window boxes can be difficult to maintain in the winter. For a little something different this fall, try these easy and budget-friendly window boxes – I spotted this one on one of my walks. A simple but colorful ornamental kale is planted in the center, surrounded by bright gourds and multicolored corn. A few strands of vinca trail over the sides to give dimension and softness to the box. And to bring it all together, a raffia bow puts the finishing touch on the harvest theme!

Explore the many varieties of ornamental cabbage and kale at your local garden center. They’ll stay pretty well into winter and will even get more colorful after a few chilly nights.

For the harvest veggies, try your local farmer’s market or pumpkin patch (or even the grocery store). Or, for a perennial treat, you could pick up gourds made of plastic or resin to re-use next year! For the trailing plants, try periwinkle (vinca), ivy, creeping euonymus, or anything else you have on hand in your yard.

Other suggestions include:

• For a larger box, tuck in a few mums or asters for a burst of blooms.
• Add a sheaf of cornstalks for height.
• Don’t forget dried flowers. As you clean up your perennial garden, save some dried cuttings for your window boxes. Yarrow, sedum, black-eyed susans, and crape myrtle all have interesting texture and seed heads.
• Pick kales and cabbages with red and green tones. Then in December you can simply replace the gourds with greenery and berries for the holidays.

Let’s face it, there are a lot of downright ugly, outdated bathrooms, which is why renovating the bath is one of the most popular home improvement projects around. While you can go all out and spend a bundle on your bath, you don’t have to break the bank to make it look like new. Here are some ideas for making the most of your budget whether it’s big or small.

Bathroom Budgeting Options

Homeowners on a limited budget should consider a cosmetic upgrade for their bath. You’ll be amazed at the difference a coat of paint, along with new hardware and faucets can make, and it can be an easy do-it-yourself project as well.

Those with more to spend could go for a complete remodel by gutting the existing bath and replacing everything from fixtures and cabinets to countertops and flooring.

For the ultimate in luxury for cramped, older baths, consider removing an existing wall and expand the bathroom into an adjoining closet or rarely used guest bedroom.

Bathroom Remodeling Tips

To make your bathroom seem more like a castle than a dungeon, consider some of these remodeling tips:

• Painting with light colors keeps a small bath from feeling claustrophobic.
• Laying floor tile diagonally makes a bath seem larger than it is.
• Adding mirrors to the walls expands the feeling of space in a bathroom.



• Stay with white or neutral colored countertops and fixtures.
• A 36” tall vanity can make the sink easier to use.
• Consider replacing your bathtub with a walk-in shower.
• Cultured marble is a durable, budget friendly alternative to natural stone that can be used for shower stalls, countertops, and sinks.
• Using pocket doors in can save space in small baths.
• A window seat in a bathroom can make dressing easier and provide storage space inside.
• Utilize wasted space by mounting a hanging cabinet on the wall above the toilet.

Other Tips from This Episode

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There were over 3,100 entries in the 2009 Better Homes and Gardens Home Improvement Challenge. Entries in the contest were rated based on appearance, creativity, function, and use of materials. Here are the winners.

Addition

Pam Schulz and Clark Dikeman of Culver City, California, won for their kitchen and bathroom addition to their home. The kitchen features a retro design that includes a 1950s stove, vaulted wood ceiling, clerestory windows above the cabinets, and quartz countertops. Best of all, eco-friendly materials were used throughout the addition.

Kitchen

Ann Steenwyk of Sheboygan, Wisconsin, removed a wall in her kitchen to open up the space. The simple, clean lines of the white cabinets, combined with great color choices, give the room an open, airy feeling.

Bath

Meg Kopald of Shelburne, Vermont, won the bath category by taking in an existing closet to enlarge the room and bring in more light. The renovated bath features his and her pedestal sinks along with a walk-in shower.

Decorating

James Little of Naples, Florida, took the honors in the decorating category for his 1,400-square-foot ranch style home built in the 1970s. Working with a palette of blues and browns, he used a variety of textures and accessories to keep the rooms from appearing too one-dimensional.

Exterior Facelift

Sonjia and Bob McKelvey of Belpre, Ohio, were the winners in the exterior home facelift category. With the help of their architect son, they transformed the exterior of their home into a quaint cottage. Details such as a winding paver walk, shingle siding, and special eave brackets added greatly to the curb appeal.

Project under $5,000

Jackie Kalin of Valparaiso, Indiana, used her artistic abilities to take home the award for projects under $5,000 for her unique bathroom renovation. The mosaic mural was made by gluing thousands of individual pieces of glass and mirrors to the wall.

Green Improvements

Laura Stukel of Elmhurst, Illinois, added insulation and energy efficient windows—along with a host of other energy saving features—to capture the green improvement prize. Nontoxic paints and cabinets were used on the 1960s home to improve the indoor air quality.

Outdoor Improvements

Jacque and Rick Bailey of Brecksville, Ohio, were the winners of the outdoor improvements category for their beautifully landscaped backyard. The design by landscape architect Peggy Brown was carried out by contractor Mark Huscroft. It includes an expansive stone patio—complete with outdoor kitchen—flanked by stone walls, a potting shed, and an impressive water feature.

Renovation

Grand prize winners Dana Liston and David Ellis of Venice, California, won in the renovation category by transforming a 1,350-square-foot, 1913 bungalow into their dream house. The couple worked with contractor and neighbor Mox Moeschler on the renovation while doing much of the work themselves. The project includes front and side porches, a family room featuring built-in bookcases and window seats, and a remodeled master bedroom and bath.

Photos courtesy of Better Homes and Gardens magazine.

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Upholstery projects have the ability to transform tired, worn-looking spaces, especially when care is given to the selection of colors, fabric patterns, and the style you’re trying to achieve. However, the most important part of any upholstered item is what you don’t see.

Hidden beneath the fabric exterior are the “guts” of your furniture, including:

• Webbing
• Batting
• Adhesives
• Springs
• Stuffing

The type of stuffing material will depend on how the upholstered furniture is to be used and the comfort level you are seeking.

Batting

In cushions and other upholstery, batting is applied over the foam to prevent slippage and provide a smooth appearance. The thickness (loft) of batting can range from very thin up to 1/4″ thick. Batting is available in cotton, wool, polyester or a blend.

Cotton Batting

Cotton batting is made from 100% cotton that has been layered. There are two weights available:

• 26.5 oz. (thin)
• 42.3 oz. (thick)

The weight is determined by the type of project you are working on, but both weights are suitable for upholstery.

Cotton is a natural fiber that can poke through the fabric covering, making the furniture uncomfortable to sit on. If you are upholstering a headboard, this may not be a concern; but it may cause problems on seating for sofas and chairs. If so, a combination poly/cotton batting may be the answer. It’s durable and will give your
furniture a smooth look and feel.

Wool Batting

Wool batting is made from wool waste that has been woven together and is available as:

• Needled Wool Batting: Strong and durable and most commonly used to cover springs in upholstery, though it can be used for stuffing as well.
• Layered Wool Batting: Not recommended for upholstery, as it falls apart easily, which can affect the appearance of the furniture over time.

Animal Hair and Feathers

The use of animal hair is one of the oldest types of upholstery stuffing. The hair used is most often from the manes and tails of horses and is often found in antique furniture. When re-upholstering antiques, the existing horse hair can be combined with wool or cotton to add additional loft to the piece.
While not actually “hair”, feather and down is often used in upscale furniture to provide the ultimate in comfort.

Upholstery Foam

Upholstery foam is the most common stuffing material used today. It’s available in several densities which determine the grade and quality of the foam. The higher the number, the better the quality.

Foam Quality

A quality, high density foam will not break apart or cause clumps. Choosing the highest density foam you can afford will improve the comfort level, appearance, and life of upholstered furniture.

Foam Durability

The resiliency or durability of your upholstery foam is important as it will determine how much wear and tear your furniture can withstand. Using foam labeled high resilient, or HR, will make cushions more comfortable and reduce sagging over time.

Foam Fire Resistance

All upholstery foam sold in the United States must be fire resistant. If the furniture you are purchasing does not indicate that the foam used is fire resistant you may want to reconsider. A label with the letters FR on it will confirm that the proper foam has been used.

Foam Firmness

The level of firmness of upholstered furniture is determined by the Indentation Force Deflection (ILD) number of the upholstery foam. This scale ranges between 6 and 45 with the lowest number representing the softest foam and the highest the firmest foam. How soft or firm you would like your upholstered piece to be is a personal decision, and knowing the ILD number of the foam you purchase allows you to determining it.

Pillow Forms

While not durable enough for padding the frames of furniture, pillow forms are used to stuff or restuff pillows that comprise part of many upholstery projects. Pillow forms are available in polyester, down, and feather/down fillings, with natural fillings generally considered best for serious upholstery projects.

Choosing Upholstery Stuffing

The particular upholstery project you are working on will often determine the type of stuffing material used. A lesser quality cushion foam or batting may be perfect for stuffing small accent pillows, headboards, footstools and furniture pieces that do not receive heavy use. Conversely, mattresses, seating, and furniture that are used frequently will benefit more from high quality stuffing to provide the ultimate in comfort and prolong the life of the furniture.

While quality stuffing materials cost more initially, they can save in the long run by making furniture last longer.

Indra Desigri thinks that even the most challenging home improvement projects can be made easy with the right materials, good information and a well-planned approach. For more from Indra, visit OnlineFabricStore.net

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When designing an outdoor kitchen for your home, be sure to provide a way to vent the smoke from the grill out of enclosed areas.

Cabinets for an outdoor kitchen should be made from materials that resist the elements—such as pressure treated wood or plastic—even if they will be covered by a roof. Perma-Panel cabinets from Atlantis Outdoor Kitchens are made from a polymer material.

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