Old doors can be reused for a number of home improvement projects, including headboards for beds and dividers in a room. Here’s how you can convert an old door into a writing or computer desk complete with bookshelves and coat rack.

Desk Materials List:

We used a 30” wide door, but you can make the desk from whatever width door is available. If you don’t have a leftover door, you can buy a used one at a salvage yard or reuse store.

• 1 – 30” door
• 1 – 18” x 30” cabinet grade plywood (desktop)
• 2 – 7” x 30” cabinet grade plywood (bookshelves)
• 2 – 2” x 6” x 24” lumber (support feet)
• 2 – 9” x 11” premade wood brackets (desktop supports)
• 4 – 5” x 7” premade wood brackets (bookshelf supports)
• Coarse, medium, and fine grit sandpaper
• Auto body filler
• Primer and paint

Making a Desk from a Door:

• Remove old hinges and lockset from door.
• Fill hinge mortises and lockset holes with auto body filler.
• Hand plane the filler flush with the door.
• Sand the door smooth (wear respirator approved for lead paint and sand outside to prevent lead contamination).
• Cut the desktop and shelves to size.
• Rout a pattern on the bottom of three sides of the desktop and shelves.
• Attach shelf brackets to the bottom of the desktop and shelves.
• Attach desktop and shelves to door using glue, nails, and screws.
• Cut support feet to length and round corners and edges
• Attach support feet to door edges with nails and screws.
• If desired, attach a coat rack or hooks to the back of door.

      Patch holes in door.             Attach brackets.                     Attach base.

Related posts:

• (690) Trash to Treasure: Reuse Projects for Your Home
• How to Protect a Garage Door from Storm Damage

This convenient shoe caddy is made from recycled 5-gallon buckets and scrap lumber. It’s great for keeping track of shoes in your garage, mud room, or closet. To make it, all you need is some 5-gallon buckets, scrap lumber, and leftover paint.

Shoe Caddy Materials List

• 6 – 5-gallon recycled buckets
• 1 – 1” x 8” x 12’ scrap lumber
• 1 – 30” x 40” scrap plywood
• 1 – Quart leftover paint

Making a Recycled Shoe Caddy:

• Use a sabre saw to cut the lip off the buckets with the rim of the bucket acting as a guide.
• Sand the cut edges on the bucket smooth.
• Arrange the buckets in a triangular shape (other shapes can be used as well), using spring clamps to hold them in place.
• Cut the plywood to size in a triangular shape so that it doesn’t protrude past the buckets.
• Screw the bottom of the buckets to the plywood.
• Cut the 1” x 8” to size at an angle so it forms a tight fitting frame around the buckets.
• Nail the four pieces of frame together.
• Sand and paint the frame.
• Slide the frame over the buckets, and screw the sides of the buckets to it.

      Cut rim off buckets.             Assemble frame.           Attach buckets to frame.

Related posts:

• How to Make a Punching Bag from Recycled Materials
• (690) Trash to Treasure: Reuse Projects for Your Home

This homemade punching bag for your kids is a eco-friendly project, since it was made from recycled materials. It’s easy to make and can provide them with hours of fun and exercise.

Punching Bag Materials List:

• 1 – 4” diameter x 3’ scrap PVC pipe
• 1 – 10” diameter scrap plywood disk
• 1 – 4” diameter scrap plywood disk
• 2 – 3’ x 12’ used carpet pad
• 1 – roll duct tape

Making the Punching Bag:

• Cut PVC pipe to length.
• Cut 10” diameter plywood disk to size, using the bottom of a 5-gallon bucket as the pattern.
• Cut a 4” diameter plywood disk to fit the interior diameter of the pipe.
• Attach 4” plywood disk to the center of 10” plywood disk.
• Screw the bottom of the pipe to the plywood disk.
• Cut carpet pad to size using a utility knife.
• Attach carpet pad to pipe with duct tape.
• Roll carpet pad on pipe.
• Wrap pad in duct tape.
• Drill holes in the top of the pipe and hang by rope from ceiling.

     Attach pipe to base.         Roll carpet pad on pipe.       Cover pad with tape.

Related posts:

• How to Make a Shoe Caddy from Recycled Materials
• (690) Trash to Treasure: Reuse Projects for Your Home

Floor tile are commonly made of either ceramic or porcelain:

• Ceramic Tile: Long considered the standard in floor tile, ceramic is made from fired clay with a glaze coating. While often less expensive than porcelain, ceramic tile is not as durable.
• Porcelain Tile: This tile is composed of sand which is fired at high temperature and pressure. Since it isn’t porous, porcelain tile is more water resistant and harder than ceramic, but it is harder to cut.

When installing a tile floor, a layer of cement backer board is usually put down over a plywood subfloor to provide a firm, stable surface. A waterproof underlayment membrane like Ditra from Schluter Systems can be substituted for backer board. Made of lightweight polyethylene, the membrane is only 1/8” thick and can be cut easily with a utility knife.

When using the membrane:

Ditra underlayment membrane

1. Cut the membrane to size.
2. Apply a layer of thin-set adhesive fortified with latex to the subfloor.
3. Roll the membrane out, and position it in place.
4. Apply a bed of thin-set without latex additive, and set the tile in it.

Tiles can be cut using:

• Hand operated “score and snap” cutter.
• Motorized wet saw.

After the tiles have set, apply grout to the joints using a rubber float. Grout is available in a variety of colors, but darker grout stains less. Stainproof grout is also available.

Once the grout has set, apply a grout sealer to the joints to prevent stains from occurring. If grout has already become stained, a grout stain pen can be used to stain the grout a uniform color.

Related posts:

• How to Apply and Seal Grout on Tile Floors
• How to Tile a Bathroom Floor
• Ceramic vs. Porcelain Tile

Mark was always very talented. He had such an amazing voice and still does to this day. When he sang a song, it would make the angels swoon. He makes me sick. If I had a dozen 5-gallon buckets strapped to me, I still couldn’t carry a tune.

But could he successfully approach a major home remodeling project? I just never saw Mark as a let’s-grab-some-tools-and-tear-out-this-wall kind of guy. Here’s the difference between Mark and a lot of people. Instead of saying, “I can’t do something like that,” Mark’s approach is, “I bet I could do something like that…and if I can’t on the first try, at least I’ll learn something along the way to try it again.”

When Mark and his wife Tammy purchased their home, this is what the kitchen looked like:

Now, even though there’s nothing really wrong with that picture, it is a very dated look. You’ve got sheet vinyl flooring, stained cabinets that match the wall paneling, square edge laminate countertops, a nine-light exterior door, white appliances and it looks like a 36” four-blade ceiling fan.

Now let’s take a look at the “AFTER” picture:

Can you spot all the differences?

1. Replace Flooring

Sheet vinyl has been replaced with ceramic tile.

Mark found these beautiful pieces for less than $1 a square foot….MUCH less.

2. Paint Cabinets

The cabinets have been re-painted. The two-tone look is perfect for this kitchen. They could have easily been all painted white to brighten up the room, but I don’t think it would have had the same distinct character as it does now. New hardware has also been installed to bring the kitchen into the 21st century. Nicely done.

3. Paint Paneling

The dark paneling has also been painted over in the same bright color. It’s amazing how those brighter colors can make a room look larger. Painting over paneling is a chore, too. You need to sand it lightly to remove the gloss, or even use a liquid deglosser. The primer you use is key. I personally would recommend an oil-based, stain-blocking primer. Once the paneling is primed, you can even use drywall joint compound to fill in the grooves.

4. Concrete Countertops

The countertops Mark installed are amazing. With no previous experience, he created molds and made these countertops from concrete! And, yes, it took a couple of tries, but what a difference!

If you look closely, the base cabinets on the left have an overhang to create a bar for eating. While I probably would have looked at creating the bar at the pass-through, Mark says the drawers in the cabinet are still accessible. This eating area allowed Mark and Tammy to do away with the dinette, freeing up more room.

Yep, that’s exactly what Mark did. Smart move. The backsplash is also new. Look closely and you’ll see tile. In case you’re not too keen on putting mastic on the walls, you should look for a new product coming to The Home Depot this fall called Simple Mat. It’s basically a two-sided adhesive mat that you place on the wall, then stick your tiles to it. You can put up your tiles and grout it all in the same day, eliminating the need for wall mastic.

5. Remove Wall

Since I just mentioned it, there’s also a pass-through where there once was a solid wall. Are you kidding me?!?! Tear out a wall?!?! Yes…a do-it-yourselfer really can do something like that. Once again, you’ve opened up the space, brought in more light and have now made this portion of the home more “people and gathering” friendly.

6. New Appliances

The white appliances have been upgraded to stainless steel.

This is a major purchase, but even if it’s not in your budget, you can turn your existing appliances into stainless by painting them with a very special product called Liquid Stainless Steel. Check out their website for a couple of really cool ideas.

7. Replace Door

The exterior door was replaced with a nice full-view door, which allowed Mark to get rid of the ugly storm door. Again, this is a great way to add some natural light and brighten the room.

8. Paddle Fan

The final touch was to get rid of the dinky, old ceiling fan and put up a nice 52” five-blade model.

So let’s answer the question now. Is do-it-yourself really worthwhile? I took these pictures to our construction estimator. For a professional to come in and do all this, including the purchase of the new appliances, you’re looking at somewhere in the neighborhood of $10,000. Of course, it all depends on your area of the country, but that’s pretty conservative.

Mark provided all his own labor and paid about 1/3 of that amount. Personally, my answer to the question is a resounding, “YES!”

Before you sell yourself short on your abilities, just try it. And don’t forget to look for those special deals and the “scratch and dent” specials out there. Above all, have fun and make it a family event.

Believe me, the satisfaction of a job you do yourself is so much better than shelling out your hard-earned dough. At least, it is for me and my wallet. Now if you’ll excuse me, I have a singing lesson.

Related posts:

• (700) Kitchen Expansion: Removing Wall Opens Up Space

Composting lawn and garden waste is a great way to obtain organic material for your garden while reducing the environmentally negative aspects of trucking yard waste to the landfill. This DIY compost bin is easy to build and made from pressure treated wood so it will last for many years to come. It has a removable top along with a hinged door on one end for easy access when filling the bin and removing compost.

While you can make your compost bin any size desired, the one we built was 2’ wide by 3’ long by 30” high. Pressure treated 4” x 4” posts were used for the corners and 5/4” by 6” treated lumber for the sides and top. Be sure to leave gaps between the boards to allow for air to circulate in the bin. Here’s how to go about building a compost bin for your garden.

Tools:

• Tape measure and pencil
• Square
• Safety glasses and ear plugs
• Level
• Circular saw
• Drill/driver (drill and screwdriver bits)
• Post hole digger

Materials:

• 2 – 4” x 4” x 8’ pressure treated pine
• 9 – 5/4” x 6” x 8’ pressure treated pine
• 1 – pair hinges
• 1 – screen door latch or barrel bolt
• Corrosion resistant deck screws

Cutting List:

• Corner Posts: 2 – 3½” x 3½” x 42”
• Top Boards: 4 – 1” x 5½” x 38”
• Top Cleats: 2 – 1” x 2” x 22”
• Side Boards: 10 – 1” x 5½” x 36”
• End Boards: 10 – 1” x 5½” x 24”
• Door Cleats: 2 – 1” x 2” x 17½”

Building the Compost Bin

Start by cutting the posts square and to length.

Next, cut the side, end, and top boards square and to length.

Attach a side board flush with the end and edges of two of the posts using screws. Check to see that the board is square with the posts.

Position each of the other four side boards, using 5/8” spacer blocks, and attach them to the posts with screws. Repeat this process to assemble the other side.

Dig four holes with a post hole digger for the corner posts.

Set the side units in the holes so the outside of the boards are 2’ apart at each end. Check to be sure the sides are level and plumb, then loosely fill the holes with dirt.

Screw the top end boards to the posts, positioning them flush with the top of the post and aligned with the outside of the sides. Use the spacer blocks to position the remaining boards on the back end of the compost bin, and attach them with screws.

Rip the cleats from a piece of leftover 5/4” lumber and screw three of the end boards together to form the door. Use the spacer blocks to position the boards the correct distance apart.

Attach the hinges to the door and mount the door on the end board of the compost bin. Attach the bottom end board below the door using a screen door latch or barrel bolt to hold it closed. Pack down the dirt in the holes.

Assemble the top of the bin by screwing the top boards to cleats so that the outside boards are spaced 24” apart with an even gap between each of the other boards.

Finally, fill the compost bin with leaves, grass clippings, and other lawn and garden waste. The amount of time it takes to turn the waste into compost will vary depending on the materials used, the outside temperature, and the humidity. To speed up decomposition, turn the pile with a pitch fork from time to time and keep the mix damp by wetting it down if it dries out. Remove the compost from the door on the end of the bin when it is ready.

Further Information

• How to Make Compost for Your Garden
• Compost Bin
• Composting with Worms
• Leaf Compost

Related posts:

• How to Build a Patio Planter
• How to Build an Outdoor Bench

This easy to build wooden outdoor bench is made from a pressure treated wood and assembled using corrosion resistant screws to stand up to the elements. It’s perfect on a back porch for taking off muddy shoes before coming inside. Here’s how to go about making it.

Tools:

• Tape measure and pencil
• Square
• Safety glasses and ear plugs
• Circular saw
• Jigsaw
• Drill/driver (drill and screwdriver bits, countersink)

Materials:

• 1 – 2” x 12” x 8’ pressure treated pine
• 1 – 2” x 4” x 4’ pressure treated pine
• Medium grit sandpaper
• Corrosion resistant deck screws

Cutting List:

• Legs: 2 – 1½” x 11” x 16”
• Top: 1 – 1½” x 11” x 48”
• Brace: 1 – 1½” x 3½” x 39”

Building the Bench

Start by cutting the top and legs square and to length. Next, set your circular saw for a 14° angle, and bevel the top and bottom of the legs so they flair out from each end of the bench and rest firmly on the floor. The top and bottom cuts on the legs should be parallel with each other.

Reset the angle on your saw to square and rip 2” off the top edge of each side of the legs so they are 7” wide at the top and 11” wide at the bottom.

Use a gallon paint can to mark a semicircle on the center of the bottom of each leg, and cut it out with a jigsaw.

Use a quart paint can to mark each of the corners of the top and round them off with a jigsaw.

Measure 4” in from each end of the bench, align the outside of the legs to the mark, and attach the legs to the top from the inside using screws.

Cut a matching 14° angle on each end of the 2”x 4” brace. Fit the brace in place so that it’s centered between the legs and flush with the bottom of the top. Screw the brace to the legs and top, countersinking the screws so they are flush with the top.

Round the edges of the top with sandpaper or a roundover bit in a router.

Related posts:

• How to Build a Patio Planter
• How to Build a Compost Bin

This outside planter is made entirely from pressure treated pine, so it will last for years. The sides are 17¾” wide on the front and 20¾” wide on the side, and the planter with mitered top measures a total of 24¾” high. It’s easy to build and is perfect for a patio, deck or porch. Here’s what you’ll need to get started.

Tools:

• Tape measure and pencil
• Square
• Hammer
• Safety glasses
• Circular saw, miter saw, or handsaw
• Drill/driver (drill bits, countersink, screwdriver bits)

Materials:

• 3 – 2” x 4” x 10’ pressure treated pine
• 6 – 1” x 4” x 8’ pressure treated pine
• Landscape fabric
• Corrosion resistant deck screws and nails

Cutting List:

• Legs: 8 – 1½” x 3½” x 24”
• Top and bottom inner frames, front: 4 – 1½” x 3½” x 11½”
• Top and bottom inner frames, sides: 4 – 1½” x 3½” x 17½”
• Mitered top, front: 2 – ¾” x 3½” x 18½”
• Mitered top, sides: 2 – ¾” x 3½” x 21½”
• Front and side boards: 12 – ¾” x 3½” x 20½”
• Top and bottom rails: 8 – ¾” x 3½” x 10½”
• Bottom: 4 – ¾” x 3½” x 17½”

Building the Planter

Follow these steps-by-step instructions to make the patio planter.

Measure the legs and cut to length, making sure both end are square.

Nail or screw the legs together at a right angle, using a scrap as support.

Measure and cut the pieces for the two inner frames. Assemble the inner frames, so that the outside dimensions of each frame measure 14½” x 17½”.

Attach the 1” x 4” bottom pieces to the bottom the inner frame. Screw the legs to the frame, supporting it with scrap, so the frame is 3½” from one end of the legs.

Turn the planter over, and attach the other frame flush with the end of the legs. Next, attach the front and side boards to the top and bottom frames so they’re flush with the ends of the frames.

Attach the top and bottom rails so they are flush with the top and bottom front and side boards.

Miter the four top pieces so the inside of the miter is flush with the inside of the inner frame and attach to the top of the planter.

Drill several holes in the bottom to allow for drainage, line the planter with landscape fabric, fill with potting soil and plant.

Related posts:

• How to Build an Outdoor Bench
• How to Build a Compost Bin

Retaining walls can be a great way not only to help with erosion and water drainage, but also to create beautiful, usable garden space. And thanks to interlocking, stackable blocks, the project can be completed in a weekend. Building a retaining wall is a tough job, but it’s something most homeowners can handle, as long as you’re able to do some heavy lifting and are willing to get dirty. Here’s what you need to know to build your own stackable retaining wall.

Stackable blocks come in many styles and colors.

Stackable Concrete Blocks

Stackable stones are made of concrete, with a decorative finish on the front and a lip on the back. The lip fits snugly against the block below it, creating an interlocking joint that holds up to pressure, while the decorative front gives an attractive finish. The stones are often slightly wedge-shaped to allow you to create gentle curves. With many styles, thin “topper” stones are also available, to give the wall a finished appearance.

Low retaining walls can also be used to create pleasing curved lines.

Materials Needed

For this project, you will need:

• Work gloves
• Shovel and/or mattock
• Brick chisel and small sledgehammer
• Level
• Wooden stakes
• String and a line level
• Soil tamper
• Gravel (sharp, not rounded) or rock dust
• Landscape fabric (optional)
• Interlocking stackable stones and toppers

Estimating the number of blocks you’ll need is tough. Count on at least one block per linear foot, and count on it taking more blocks than your estimate suggests!

Stackable stones interlock to create a strong joint with a stepped-back effect.

Layout and Planning

• Before you begin, check with your city utilities office, or dial 811 to make sure there aren’t any buried pipes or cables in your digging zone.
• Use a garden hose to lay out a pleasing line for your retaining wall. Mark the ground using flour layout lines or landscape marking paint.

A properly leveled and tamped-down trench is important for building a strong wall.

Digging the Trench

• Along your marked line, carefully dig a trench slightly wider than the blocks (ideally, the width of your soil tamper), and deep enough so the first course of blocks is below ground level. Cut straight down with the shovel keep from disturbing the surrounding soil.

• Make the trench as level as you can, to save time later.
• If your wall goes across a slope, you can dig a series of stepped trenches so that only one course of blocks is below ground.
• Tamp down the bottom of the trench using a soil tamper.
• Add several inches of sharp gravel or rock dust to the bottom of the trench, and use this layer to do your final leveling and tamping.

Burying the first course of stones keeps the wall from sliding or moving.

Laying the First Course

• Start at the edge of the wall that’s most visible, or the edge that butts up against another structure. If your wall goes across a slope, start at the lowest end.
• Position the first stone in your trench. Make sure the stone is level from front to back and side to side. Adjust by lifting the stone and adding more gravel or digging deeper as necessary.
• Hammer wooden stakes in the ground at each end of the trench, and stretch a string between them even with the top of the first stone. Level the string with a line level, and use the string as a guide for laying the rest of the first course.
• Continue laying stones side-by-side along your trench, making sure they are level. Getting the first course right is the key to a successful wall.

The first course goes in carefully with the help of levels and a string guide.

Laying Additional Courses

• Each row of blocks is offset from the one below it. If your wall has straight edges on the ends, start your next course with a block that has been cut in half.

• If you’ve worked hard to make sure everything is level, then this is the fun part. Continue laying courses of stones, making sure the lip of the stone is tight against the stone below it, and also making sure the seams are offset. The front edge will have a slightly “stepped-back” look due to the lips on the stones.
• Periodically check to make sure the stones are level and wobble free.
• Build up the wall to the desired height, and top with topper stones if desired.

Topper stones add a finished look.

            Cross-section view

Backfilling

• To keep your wall clean, spread landscape fabric up against the wall before backfilling.
• Backfill the area behind the wall in layers, with gravel against the wall and fill dirt behind it, firmly tamping down each layer.
• Finish with a layer of topsoil.

This wall is stepped up to fit the contours of the slope.

Further Information

• Retaining Walls (Video)
• White Efflorescence Stains on Retaining Walls
• Building Retaining Wall (PaverSearch)
• How To Build a Stronger Retaining Wall (Reader’s Digest)

Related posts:

• White Efflorescence Stains on Retaining Walls
• How to Build a Patio Planter
• How to Build a Compost Bin

Recycling consists of a lot more than just remembering to put your newspapers by the curb every week. Another important component is reusing existing items rather than throwing them away or buying new ones.

Here are a few nifty ideas for fixing up old items that might be cluttering up your closet or garage. Used building materials and other household items are also available at bargain prices through classified ads, local salvage companies, Goodwill stores, The Freecycle Network and Habitat for Humanity ReStores.

Refinishing Furniture

Refinishing furniture is a great way to give new life to an old table or chair. For best results, read and follow the instructions and safety information on the stripper and finish.

Apply stripper to furniture.         Remove residue.               Clean with solvent.

To refinish a piece of furniture:

• Apply liquid stripper and allow it to remain on the surface for the recommended time.
• When the finish has softened, use a putty knife with rounded edges to remove the bulk of the old finish.
• Take off the remaining finish and stripper using steel wool or a plastic scouring pad dipped in the recommended solvent.
• Sand the surface thoroughly starting with coarse sandpaper (80-100 grit) and working up to fine (180-220 grit). Sand with the grain when possible.
• Stain the piece and allow to dry. Applying stain with a rag works best.
• Finish with several coats of a clear finish such as polyurethane.

  Sand stripped furniture.             Stain furniture.                   Finish furniture.

Turn Fallen Trees into Lumber

Small, locally owned sawmills are a great way to recycle fallen trees into lumber. Not only does this keep them out of the landfill, but it can provide unusual species of wood in sizes not commonly available for unique woodworking projects.

Recycled Punching Bag

You don’t have to send your kids to a gym to find a punching bag to take out their frustrations. With a little imagination and some scrap materials, you can make one yourself using scrap pipe and plywood, an old carpet pad, and duct tape.

To make a punching bag:

• Cut a piece of 4” PVC pipe several inches longer than the desired length of the punching bag.
• Cut out a round piece of plywood for the base approximately 10” in diameter, using the bottom of a 5-gallon bucket as a pattern.
• Cut a plywood disk the interior diameter of the pipe and attach it to the center of the base.
• Screw the bottom end of the pipe to the plywood disk.

     Attach pipe to base.         Roll carpet pad on pipe.       Cover pad with tape.

• Cut the carpet pad to the desired width using a utility knife.
• Attach the pad to the pipe with duct tape.
• Roll the pad onto the pipe until the thickness equals the diameter of the base.
• Wrap duct tape around the pad until it’s completely covered.
• Drill holes in the top end of the pipe, and hang it on a rope from an eye hook screwed to a joist in the ceiling.

Mud Room Shoe Caddy

This handy shoe caddy is perfect for organizing the shoes in your mud room or garage. All you need to make it is some scrap lumber, recycled 5-gallon buckets, and leftover paint.

To make a shoe caddy:

• Decide on the layout for the buckets. We used six buckets in a triangular configuration, but other groupings work as well.
• Cut the lips off the buckets with a sabre saw, using the rim as a fence, then sand off any rough edges.
• Assemble the buckets into the pattern desired, using spring clamps to hold them together.

      Cut rim off buckets.             Assemble frame.           Attach buckets to frame.

• Screw the bottoms of the buckets to a piece of plywood.
• Cut and assemble a wooden frame so it fits tightly around the buckets.
• Sand and paint the frame.
• Fit the frame over the buckets, and screw the sides of the buckets to it.

Desk from Reused Door

There are a number of useful items you can make from old doors, including headboard and room dividers. For our project, we turned a door into a functional and cool looking computer desk with bookshelves.

To turn an old door into a desk or bookcase:

• Remove the hinges, lockset, and other hardware from the door.
• Fill any large holes with solid wood and smaller holes using auto body filler.
• Plane or sand the filler flush with the surface of the door, and sand the door smooth.
• Cut the desktop and shelves to size.
• Rout a molding pattern on three sides of the desktop and shelves.
• Attach wooden shelf brackets (corbels) to the bottom of the desktop and shelves.
• Mount the desktop and shelves on the door using glue, nails, and screws.
• Cut and round 2” x 6” x 2’ support legs and attach at right angles to the sides of the door.
• Attach a coat rack or hooks to the back of door.

      Patch holes in door.             Attach brackets.                     Attach base.

Other Tips from This Episode

Related posts:

• How to Fix a Wobbly Chair Leg
• How to Make a Punching Bag from Recycled Materials
• (692) DIY Installation Projects for Your Home