“I’m putting a fence in my backyard and need to find my property line. How do I do that?” - Rick from Alabama

It’s important to know exactly where your property lines are before starting a construction project in your yard. Licensed land surveyors can be found in the phonebook to survey your property and mark the corners of your land. It may also be possible to use a metal detector to locate the original metal pegs that mark the corners of your property.

Whether it’s adding a pool or building a playground for the kids, backyards are a perfect place for family activities. No matter what your backyard plans, remember to keep safety in mind when designing and building your family friendly project.

Fencing

The first step often involves fencing in the backyard to provide privacy and address safety concerns. For young children, consider adding a second gate latch high enough to prevent inquisitive fingers from accessing it. See our article Fences: Surrounding Your Surroundings for more information.

Play Sets

Backyard play sets have come a long way in recent years. The sturdy wooden frameworks and plastic accessories such as those from Rainbow Play Systems not only look great and are kid friendly but hold up to the elements better than traditional metal swing sets.

When purchasing a play set:

• Choose a set your children will grow into, rather than out of.
• Observe your children playing and get their feedback to determine the activities they enjoy.
• Look for a system that can be expanded as your children grow.
• Make sure it’s made of a durable wood like redwood or cedar. Pressure treated pine can be used if the preservative doesn’t contain arsenic or chromium.

Installation of a play set can be done professionally, or you can do-it-yourself. Many sets come with precut wooden parts, though long posts may have to be purchased separately.

When building a play set:

• Keep at least 6’ between the set and other objects such as trees and fences.
• Round sharp edges with a router to prevent injuries.
• Sand rough surfaces to reduce splinters.
• Allow pressure treated wood to dry and weather before staining.

Pools & Hot Tubs

Swimming pools and hot tubs are another popular component in a family friendly backyard. While everyone wants a pool, they’re expensive to build and maintain. See our article on Adding a Pool for more information.

Hot tubs are not only less expensive and easier to install, they use only about $100 a year in chemicals and the water only needs to be changed every four months. Since a full hot tub can weigh from 2,000 to 5,000 pounds, it’s important to be sure you have an adequate slab or reinforced deck capable of supporting the weight. To find out how much your hot tub will weigh, multiply the number of gallons of water it holds by 8.34 pounds then add the empty weight of the unit and weight of the occupants.

Storage Building

In order to maintain your backyard, you need a storage shed to store lawn equipment, tools, and other supplies. Start by checking the city setback requirements to determine how far the shed must be built from property lines. Also, examine any neighborhood restrictions to see if they have regulations concerning the materials, size, or style of storage buildings.

When building or buying a storage shed, consider:

• Size: How much room you’ll need for your tools and equipment.
• Lighting: Since sheds often don’t have power, choose one with natural lighting from windows or skylights.
• Ventilation: To reduce heat and provide fresh air. Cover vents with screen or hardware cloth to keep insects and animals out.
• Accessories: Shelves and hanging racks to organize lawn and garden equipment. Adjustable shelves provide flexible storage space.

The foundation can be a concrete slab or a wooden floor made from pressure treated pine and plywood that’s set off the ground on concrete blocks or pavers.

This 8’ x 10’ storage shed from Lifetime is made from steel reinforced plastic panels that are both strong and durable.

While you can hire professionals to assemble a storage shed kit, it can make a good weekend DIY project and teach older kids basic carpentry skills. You can also have a prebuilt storage building delivered to your home. Before ordering, be sure there’s adequate vertical and horizontal clearance for access to the site and unloading.

For more information, see our article on Sheds.

Family Garden

A family vegetable garden can provide a valuable learning experience for kids while putting food on the table at the same time. Kits are available to start your garden from seeds, or you can buy seedlings from a nursery.

Vegetable gardens can either be planted directly in the ground, in raised beds, or in containers on a patio or porch. It’s important to provide the proper ratio of light, water, soil, and fertilizer for your plants to grow. Visit our Around the Yard website for more information on gardens.

Other Tips From This Episode

Power tools used on Today’s Homeowner with Danny Lipford® are provided by Ryobi.

Hi Mike,

A heavy duty hammer drill or rotary hammer with a high quality masonry bit is the tool of choice for drilling into concrete. The hammer action on the drill propels the bit through the concrete and breaks up any aggregate imbedded in it. This allows you to drill much faster without wearing out either the operator or the bit.

Good luck with your project,

• Always use a grill outside in an open area away from the house.
• Don’t store a propane tank in an enclosed area.
• Come straight home after having a tank filled and remove it from the car immediately.
• Don’t use a tank that is dented, rusted, or otherwise damaged.
• Never buy or accept an exhanged tank if the brass valve has turned a blue or green color.
• Turn off the burners and close the cylinder valve after each use.
• Keep a fire extinguisher, bucket of sand, or garden hose handy in case of fire.
• Never leave a lit grill unattended.

While this house had a beautiful view, the homeowners could only enjoy it when the weather permitted. With the addition of this great looking sunroom and patio, they’ll be able to take advantage of it all year long.

The first step was to remove the existing bricks from the exterior walls adjoining the sunroom. Next, the site was prepared and forms were constructed for the two concrete slabs.

Foundation

When building forms, make sure they are sturdy enough to keep from deforming under the weight of the concrete. The form for the patio employed a step arrangement to accommodate a brick border around the outer edge.

The soil under the sunroom was treated for termites. The patio foundation was treated as well in case the homeowners ever decided to convert it into living space.

A plastic vapor barrier was put down to prevent the absorption of moisture from the ground, then reinforcing wire and rebars were cut to size and set in place to keep the concrete from cracking. The slabs were poured and the surface leveled and finished.

Scored Concrete Floor

Once the concrete had set, lines were laid out in a diagonal grid pattern on the sunroom floor. Grooves were cut into the concrete using a circular saw and guide board to simulate the look of a tile floor. Since concrete continues to harden for quite some time, score the lines as soon as possible after it has set to make cutting easier.

To protect the concrete while curing, the floor was covered with sheets of plywood to prevent it from becoming nicked or scarred during construction.

Framing

Since a sunroom has more opening for windows and doors than walls area, 2”x 6” studs were used to provide added support. Metal angle braces were bolted to the slab and attached to the corner posts for extra security.

Roofing

Once the walls were up, work on the roof began. The slope and design of the roof and eaves were carefully matched to the house. The ceiling joists were aligned with the overhang and the rafters tied into the existing roof. When adding to an existing roof, make sure the framing is strong enough to handle the additional load.

Since the new roof channeled runoff to the side of the house, a small extension known as a “cricket” was considered as a way to divert the water. Crickets are commonly used to prevent water from building up behind a fireplace or other obstruction.

After consulting with the roofer, however, it was decided that an extra layer of felt underlayment and additional copper flashing were all that was needed to handle the excess water.

Eaves

A ventilation strip was installed in the soffit under the eaves with 3/8” plywood flanking it on either side. The wood fascia boards were matched to those on the existing house.

Windows and Doors

After the windows and doors had been installed and the drywall hung, any gaps between the door jambs and wall were filled with caulking or foam backer rods to prevent air infiltration. The window casings were assembled and aligned with the window units, and the trim molding applied.

Climate Control

To handle the heating and cooling needs of the sunroom, a ductless unit from Mitsubishi was mounted on the wall near the ceiling with a separate outdoor condenser unit. The temperature can be adjusting using a wall mounted thermostat or a remote control.

Bricking

The bricks and mortar on the exterior of the sunroom were carefully matched to the existing bricks and mortar so they would blend in seamlessly with the house. The same bricks were used to form the border on the patio that is inset into the slab.

Locks

SmartKey deadbolts from Kwikset were installed on the doors to the sunroom so they would match the locks on the house. These innovative locks can be programmed to match the keys from other locks, eliminating the need for multiple keys.

Floor Finishing

An acid stain was applied to the floor of the sunroom to give it a rich brown color. Acid stains consist of muriatic (hydrochloric) acid mixed with metallic salts. The acid etches the surface which allows the salt to penetrate and react with hydrated lime in the concrete. Once the stain has dried, the acid is neutralized, and a sealer is applied to protect the surface.

Other Tips From This Episode

Power tools used on Today’s Homeowner with Danny Lipford® are provided by Ryobi.

Building steps used to require complicated measurements and difficult angled cuts, but the precut pressure treated stringers available at home centers today have made the job much easier.

Allow for a stringer at each end of the steps and at 16” intervals in between. Use corrosion resistant screws and nails to assemble the steps.

Start by measuring the width of the opening, then cut a treated 2”x4” to length to attach to the side of the house as an anchor for the stringers. Remember to take 3” off the length of the anchor board to allow for the thickness of the end stringers.

Position the anchor board on the house, taking into account the thickness of the top tread. Screw the board in place, making sure it’s level with the house. When attaching to brick, drill pilot holes with masonry bit for anchors or masonry screws.

Place the outside stringers against the house flush with the top of the anchor board, checking to be sure they’re level and square, and nail them to the ends of the anchor board.

Cut 1½” off the end of each of the inside stringers to allow for the thickness of the anchor board.

Toenail the inside stringers to the anchor board flush with the top.

Attach a treated 1”x 8” riser to the bottom of the steps to tie the stringers together.

Cut the 5/4” x 6” pressure treated treads to length, allowing for the overhang on each end, and nail them in place. Using two treads on each step minimizes the cracking and cupping that might occur with a single wide board.

Rip 1”x8” risers to width and cut to length flush with the outside of the stringers. Nail the risers to the stringers to complete the steps.

Power tools used on Today’s Homeowner with Danny Lipford® are provided by Ryobi.

Cast iron grates from Iron Age Designs are not only functional and beautiful but are made using mostly recycled materials and qualify for LEED green building credits. Grates come in over a dozen designs with sizes to fit most standard applications from drain and tree grates to wall registers for heating ducts. Made in the United States, Iron Age Designs can produce custom patterns and sizes as well, with no order considered too small. In addition to cast iron, grates can also be made from aluminum or silicone bronze.

Installing fiber cement siding (FCS)—such as HardiePlank®—is easier than you might think, though there are some important differences from traditional wood siding. Installation instructions may vary depending on the manufacturer, and check with your local building inspector for any code requirements.

Safety First

Always follow these safety precautions when installing fiber cement siding:

• Wear safety glasses when cutting and nailing FCS.
• Use ear protection when cutting siding with a circular saw.
• Cutting FCS with a circular saw creates a large amount of dust which can lead to the incurable lung disease silicosis. Always cut siding outside and use a dust collecting saw hooked to a shop vac if possible.
• Wear a NIOSH approved N-95 dust mask or respirator when cutting FCS.

Storage and Handling

• Inspect siding carefully for damage when it arrives.
• Store off the ground, making sure it is flat and well supported.
• Keep it dry until it has been installed.
• Carry pieces on edge to prevent breaking.
• Support siding along its length when cutting.

Prep Work

• Sheath walls with plywood, oriented strand board (OSB), or foam.
• Cover sheathing with housewrap or felt paper.
• Pop chalk lines to mark the location of studs.

Cutting Siding

• Circular Saw: While this is the most common method of cutting, it produces the most dust. Use a polycrystalline diamond toothed blade made for cutting FCS. Cut from the back side using a rafter square as a guide for right angle cuts. Several pieces may be stacked and cut at the same time.
• Fiber Cement Shears: Special handheld electric shears can be used to make straight and curved cuts. An attachment called the TurboShearFC® converts an electric drill into fiber cement shears. When using shears, cut with the back of the siding facing up.
• Jigsaw: When fitted with a carbide coated blade, a jigsaw can be used to cut holes and curves. Cut from the back of the siding.
• Scoring: Fiber cement siding can be scored and snapped like drywall, though the cuts are not very smooth. Score the face of the siding then pull up to break. A carbide tipped scoring knife lasts much longer than a standard utility knife blade.

Fastening Siding

Fiber cement siding can be nailed by hand or with a pneumatic nailer. It can also be attached using corrosion resistant screws.

• Use hot-dipped galvanized or stainless steel nails.
• Nails should penetrate through the sheathing and at least 1” into studs.
• Position nails ¾” to 1” from the edge of the siding.
• Siding can either be blind nailed at the top or face nailed at the bottom.
• Use roofing nails for blind nailing and siding nails for face nailing.

Installing Trim

Begin by installing the inside and outside corners on the wall. These can be made from wood, vinyl, or thicker fiber cement products such as HardieTrim®. Corners should be at least ¼” thicker than two stacked pieces of siding to allow room for caulking.

Installing Siding

Fiber cement siding should be installed 6” or more above the grade level of the house with a 1”– 2” gap between horizontal surfaces like decks, steps, or adjacent roofs. Flash above doors and windows, leaving a ¼” gap between the flashing and siding. If you’re working alone, overlap gauges can be used to support the siding while you nail it.

Begin by attaching a 1¼” wide strip of FCS 1/8” above the bottom of the first row to provide the proper angle for the siding. Next, nail the first row of siding into the studs, leaving 1/8” gaps at the corner boards to allow for caulking. Blind nailing is preferable to face nailing, since any nail heads are hidden by the next row of siding. Nails do not need to be predrilled except near the ends.

Center joints over studs unless special metal off stud joiners are used. Joints should be butted loosely together with a 4” wide strip of 30 pound felt positioned behind each one. Make sure the felt overhangs the previous row of siding to keep water from running behind it if the caulking fails.

Each row of siding should overlap by 1¼” or more. A spacer stick with a notch cut the length of the exposed part of the siding makes alignment easy.

Use a square or level to check that the rows line up at corners. When notching the siding around doors and windows, hold it in place and mark each end. To determine the depth of the notch, hook the spacer stick on the previous row of siding and measure from the top of the stick to the window or door unit.

When cutting angles on gables, start by cutting a piece of scrap siding or wood to the proper angle then use it to mark each piece. To measure the top row of siding on horizontal eaves, hook the spacer stick on the previous row and measure up to the eave, then rip the siding to width.

Finishing

While fiber cement siding should be painted as soon as possible after installation, factory primed FCS can go as long as six months without painting. Make sure it is clean and dry before painting. Caulk joints and ends first with a high quality latex caulking. Prime bare siding and any exposed cuts then topcoat with 100% acrylic latex paint.

Manufacturer Installation Instructions:

• HardiePlank®
• CemPlank®
• CertainTeed
• MaxiPlank
• Nichiha

When it comes to protecting your home from the elements, fiber cement siding is a clear winner. Though best known under the brand name HardiePlank®, which is manufactured by James Hardie Building Products, there are several other companies that make fiber cement siding as well.

What it is

Fiber cement is a composite material made from cement, sand, cellulose fiber, and water in a special process that uses pressurized steam. The result is a highly durable material that costs a bit more than vinyl siding but considerably less than wood. While fiber cement siding is often touted as maintenance free, it does require periodic painting.

Advantages

While it’s hard to come up with reasons not to use fiber cement siding, there are plenty of pluses over vinyl and wood including:

• Class 1(A) fire rating, which means it’s virtually noncombustible.
• Impervious to attack by termites and other insects.
• Will not rot or crack.
• Dimensionally stable to changes in humidity and temperature.
• Weather resistant, withstands hurricane force winds as well as extreme heat and cold.
• Stands up to impact from hail or windblown debris.
• Resists fading and deterioration from UV rays.
• Paint lasts several times longer than on wood.
• Environmentally friendly and sustainable material.
• Comes with up to a 50-year warranty.

What’s Available

From smooth to wood grain to rough sawn, there’s a fiber cement siding to fit every style and taste. Lap siding and shingles come in several patterns and widths while vertical panels can be stripped to resemble board-and-batten siding. Here are some of the products available from James Hardie Building Products:

Shingles come as individual shingles or 48” wide multi-shingle panels, while soffit panels are available in solid and perforated versions.

Painting

While fiber cement siding often comes primed and is painted with exterior acrylic latex paint after installation, it’s also available prefinished in a wide range of colors. The factory applied, baked-on finish is guaranteed for up to 15 years against cracking, chipping, or peeling. Eventually, though, it will require painting to look its best.

The Bottom Line

Fiber cement siding is affordable, attractive, and requires little maintenance—a combination that’s hard to find these days. Installation is not much more difficult than standard wood siding, though it’s important to follow the instructions and safety precautions provided with the product.

When purchasing fiber cement siding, read the warrenty carefully to make sure you are getting the best coverage and that it is transferable should you decide to sell your home.

Fiber Cement Siding Manufacturers:

• James Hardie Building Products
• CertainTeed Corporation
• CemPlank
• MaxiTile, Inc.
• Nichiha Fiber Cement

Photos courtesy of James Hardie Building Products, Inc.

Since the wrought-iron column on this ranch style house was rusty and had seen better days, it was replaced with a low-maintenance fiberglass one. While the column came prefinished, it can be painted a different color if desired.

First, a temporary brace was installed to support the porch roof.

The old column was then removed by sawing it in half with a metal cutting blade in a reciprocating saw.

Next, the height was carefully measured and transferred to the column.

The hollow column was then cut to length by marking around it with a square and cutting each of the four sides with a circular saw.

The preassembled top and base moldings were slipped over the shaft and the column was set in place. The porch beam was jacked up slightly to allow the column to be positioned and checked for plumb.

Once it had been properly aligned, the brace supporting the porch beam was removed.

The base was caulked in place, while the capital at the top of the shaft was attached to the beam.

Power tools used on Today’s Homeowner with Danny Lipford® are provided by Ryobi.