With the feel of fall in the air, it’s time to think about getting your home ready for colder weather. Much of the routine maintenance that needs to be done this time of year will not only help keep you cozy this winter, it will also save money on your heating bill and protect your biggest investment—your home.

While most of these routine maintenance tasks are fairly simple, make sure they get done before cold weather arrives to prevent damage to both your home and wallet.

Seal Up Cracks and Gaps

If you added up all the small cracks, gaps, and holes around the outside of the average home, it would equal the area of an open window! To reduce the loss of heat, carefully inspect the perimeter of your home and caulk or weather-strip where needed. Both caulking and weather stripping can reduce the flow of cold air in and warm air out—lowering your energy costs substantially.

Check the following key areas for leaks:

• Around door and window frames.
• Exterior openings including electrical outlets, phone lines, outside faucets, and cable TV lines.
• Around heating and/or cooling units.
• The seal around room air conditioners.
• At corners formed by siding.
• Openings around drain pipes in bathrooms and kitchens.

How to Caulk

Now that you’ve identified the problem areas around your home, it’s time to seal them up:

• Start by cleaning the surface to remove dirt, loose paint, and old caulk.
• Determine which caulk to use based on the size of crack or gap and the surrounding material. Read our article on A Homeowner’s Guide to Caulk to find out more.
• Cut the tip off the tube of caulking at a 45° angle and load it into the caulking gun. Since the tip is tapered, the more you cut off, the wider the bead of caulk.
• Use a long nail or the puncture tool found on caulking guns to break the inner seal.
• Apply a uniform bead of caulk to the gap, making sure it covers both sides and completely fills the crack.
• Remove any excess then smooth the bead of caulk with your finger before it begins to set.
• Insert a tight fitting nail in the end of the tube of caulking to prevent it from drying out.

Applying Weather Stripping

Apply weather stripping at joints where two surfaces meet, such as around windows and doors, to give an airtight seal. There are several different types of weather stripping and each has its benefits and drawbacks. After you have chosen the appropriate weather stripping, follow the instructions that came with it for proper application.

• Tape – lasts only one year and should only be used on windows or doors that will not be opened. Tends to dry and loosen within one heating season
• Felt – lasts only one or two years and should be used on top or side of doors or window frames for sealing gaps of uniform width
• Foam – lasts only one or two years and should be used on the bottom of window sashes or around the frame of a warped or loose-fitting door (wood-backed foam)
• Tubular gasket and vinyl tubing – lasts around five years and can be used on windows or doors.

For more information on caulking and weather stripping, watch our video on How to Caulk and Seal Gaps and Cracks.

Inspect Your Roof

Check your roof for signs of minor damage such as missing, broken, cracked, or curling shingles, as well as bare spots where the granular coating has worn off. Be sure to make the necessary minor repairs now to prevent further damage. When moisture is able to seep up and under loose or damaged shingles far more expensive damage can occur. For extensive roof repairs, consider having a professional perform the work. However, if you are fairly handy and are comfortable climbing a ladder, you should be able to take care of most minor repairs.

Purchase roofing cement in caulking tubes to seal minor cracks and holes and glue down curled shingles. For bigger jobs, roofing cement is available in large containers. If the damage is extensive, or the shingle is missing, replace it immediately to prevent more serious damage from occurring. Also, if you have a fireplace, be sure to check for gaps around the flashing and caulk to seal.

Clean and Repair Gutters

Dirty, clogged gutters can cause a myriad of problems during the winter months including flooded basements and damage to your foundation and landscaping. To clean, simply remove all debris so that water can drain properly and consider installing gutter guards to prevent additional debris from building up. To see how it’s done, watch our video on How to Clean Gutters. More information on gutters can be found in our article on The Trouble with Gutters.

If you don’t enjoy climbing ladders, consider assembling a homemade gutter cleaner using long strips of PVC pipe attached to a regular garden hose. This will allow you to frequently and safely rinse out your gutters ensuring they do not become clogged. To see how it’s done, watch our video on how to make a PVC Gutter Cleaner

Trim Back Trees and Bushes

Trimming your trees and hedges in the fall not only leaves you with less mess, it also improves the appearance of your shrubbery and can prevent or correct a safety hazard. While power tools are terrific (and a must for a large number of trees and bushes) most seasonal pruning and trimming can be taken care of with a few affordable hand tools.

Hand pruners, hedge trimmers, loping shears, and a pruning saw will take care of most small branches and limbs. First look for and remove dead or diseased limbs, then cut back excessive growth and trim the bush into the desired shape. Read our article on Basic Shrub Pruning Techniques to see how it’s done.

For taller trees and thicker limbs, consider calling in a professional especially if branches are dangerously close to power lines. You may also consider contacting your town or utility company, as major tree trimming may be their responsibility.

Fertilize Your Lawn

Fall is a great time to fertilize your lawn as it provides grass with the nutrients required for the winter when the top layer of grass is dormant but the root systems continue to grow. During this period roots easily absorb and store the nutrients a good fertilizer will provide and fall fertilizing will also help your lawn “green-up” faster in early spring.

Depending on your part of the country and the type of grass you have, the correct fertilizer for your lawn many vary. However, almost all zones and lawn types require a fertilizer rich in nitrogen and phosphorus. Nitrogen affects the color, rooting, and disease resistance of a lawn, and a yellowish appearance may signal a nitrogen deficiency. Phosphorus is the key for strong roots and a lawn deficient in Phosphorus may have an unusual tint that may be on the purple side. A lawn rich in phosphorus will fight disease better and be more tolerant to extreme elements.

For more on fertilizing your yard, check out our article on Fertilizer 101 or watch our videos on Fertilizer Selection and Fertilizer Application

Storing Your Lawnmower

Now that you’ve cut your grass for the final time this year, take a few minutes to properly store your lawnmower so it will start easily in the spring. First, completely remove all fuel by either draining the gas tank or running it empty. Alternatively, consider adding a fuel conditioner and topping up the gas tank to prevent any moisture from condensing in the tank. Once you have added the conditioner, run the engine for a minute or two to circulate the additive through the carburetor. This will help prevent gum from forming in the fuel system or on essential carburetor parts.

Next remove spark plugs and apply a small amount of oil in the cylinder. Start your engine to burn off oil as well as lubricate the pistons, rings, and cylinder walls. Finally, wipe your lawnmower clean of all grass and debris and be sure to store it in a clean, dry area far away from any stove, furnace, water heater, or other appliance that uses a pilot light or can create a spark.

More information on maintaining your lawnmower is available in our article on Lawn Mower Maintenance

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There was a time when lawn work was looked on as strictly the guy’s job. In fact, it often took the strength of Hercules to pull the crank cord a minimum of 10-12 times just to start the darn machine! Long gone are those days, though, as the lawn mower has evolved into a tool that any gender can operate with ease. You may think, however, that maintaining your mower is still a job best left for the man of the house. This, too, is simply not the case.

It’s very easy to take care of your mower; and, with some new innovations, yard work can actually be a fun chore. I’ll share with you some tips and tricks in keeping your yard picture-perfect and look at some of the great new mowers on the market to make life outside a lot easier.

1-2-3 Maintenance

At the start of the season, usually Spring, there are three main areas to focus on when it comes to lawn mower maintenance:

1. Change the oil: Even if you don’t think it needs it, do it! The oil should be changed at the beginning of every season. Over the course of the cutting season, dirt and other impurities will collect in the oil and those things will ruin an engine. Check with your mower’s owner’s manual for the proper procedure.



2. Change the spark plug: That little space at the end of the plug where the metal end bends at a 90 degree angle is called the gap. Many manufacturers are now packaging new plugs with the gap pre-set, so it’s as simple as removing the old and installing the new. However, it’s still a good idea to double-check the gap with an inexpensive spark plug gap tool just in case. Many people like to change the plug every year so you’re starting every cutting season with a new spark plug.
3. Clean the air filter: If the filter in your mower is an accordion-style paper type, simply remove the filter cover and blow out all the debris with a high-pressure air hose. This works well with an air filter that looks like . If the filter is made from foam, wash it in a water and detergent solution, let it dry, and apply a few drops of oil to it. In some rare cases, you may need to replace the filter, but most of the time, a simple cleaning will do.

Blades

I have separated the blade from regular maintenance, because this is more than just a standard upkeep. It takes a little extra effort to remove the blade and sharpen or replace the blade. Every year, though, this should be done prior to the first cutting. You need to have a sharp blade when cutting grass, otherwise it doesn’t cut the grass but, tears it instead, which can lead to a diseased lawn. Before removing the blade, be sure to detach the spark plug wire to prevent the mower from accidently starting. Then tilt the mower up and use a wrench
to loosen the bolt that holds the blade on by turning it counter clockwise.

Sharpening a blade can be done with a metal file, sharpening stone, or a motorized grinder. Regardless of the method used, follow the existing beveled edge on the blade by passing the file over the blade in the same direction each time. An even easier way to sharpen the blade is to use a small grinding attachment for your cordless drill. Just place the blade in a bench vice and you can hone the edge with no trouble.

Mowers

Push Mowers

For a small yard, a simple push mower is perfect. While some homeowners use push mowers to take care of a large yards, it takes several hours of work and defeats the whole purpose of making the chore easier. Don’t rush out and get the least expensive one, though. Remember, the whole point is to make yard work easier. A cheap mower won’t cut it, if you’ll pardon the pun. A larger cutting deck is a good feature. Many small mowers start at around 19”, but 21” is better. Also, think about how easy it is to crank and the type of bagging attachment (a rear bagger is easier to maneuver).

Battery powered cordless models are becoming more and more popular. Not only are they quieter and more environmentally friendly than gas powered models, but cordless electric mowers greatly reduce the maintenance needed, since they don’t need oil changes, spark plugs, or air filters.

Riding Mowers

For a large yard, riding mowers are the toy of preference. Professional services use ZTR (Zero Turn Radius) mowers, which can turn on a dime. The new ZTR’s are a work of art focusing not only on performance, but also on comfort and style. They can include shock absorbers, larger wheels for a more comfortable ride, cushy seat with armrests and even cup holders! The biggest drawback for many homeowners is trying to operate the ZTR’s with the two separate directional levers.

The cutting decks for riding mowers start at 42”. While most homeowners don’t need one that’s too big, a 48”-50” model is ideal. If you want the “cool factor” of a ZTR with the convenience of a traditional tractor, consider Cub Cadet’s iSeries Zero Turn Tractors. They have a traditional steering wheel while still giving zero turn radius.

Cutting Tips

Here are a few quick tips that will keep your lawn looking great:

• Don’t cut wet grass: Aside from having a tendency to clog the machine and leave clumps of wet grass all over the yard, wet grass won’t cut easily. It tears, just as it does with a dull blade.
• Set the cutting height to at least 1½”: Taller grass will hold moisture better and will also allow the root system to “grab hold” of the soil better, which means a healthier lawn.
• Don’t mow in the same direction every time you cut: For example, one week mow north to south. The next week, mow east to west. This prevents ruts from forming in the yard and also lets the grass grow thicker.
• Use a grass catcher for the first cut and last cut of the season: Use the mulching feature the rest of the time to reduce yard waste and add nutrients back into the yard.

Finally, if you need just a little more incentive to spend a day in the yard, remember this. According to the Journal of the American College of Sports Medicine, you can burn over 350 calories every hour you spend behind a push mower! Now that’s a great workout with added benefits!

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Cleaning and repairing the outside of your home doesn’t have to be a spring project, though it is nice to get outside and enjoy the warm weather after a long, cold winter spent inside. Here are some often neglected outdoor maintenance projects you might want to consider tackling.

Clean Exterior

A pressure washer can make quick work of cleaning the outside of your home, but be careful since the extremely high pressure can damage wood and other softer materials.

While scrubbing is not necessary with a pressure washer, adding detergent to the reservoir on the machine serves to loosen stubborn dirt and get the job done faster. Be sure to use a cleaner that is made for pressure washers and intended for the type of surface you’re cleaning. Cleaners are available for specific applications such as siding, decks, and masonry surfaces.

If mold or mildew is present, spray it with a product such as SporiCLEAN or Concrobium. A mixture of 1 part bleach to 4 parts water can also be effective on mold on nonporous surfaces. Wear protective clothing and rubber gloves when working with bleach or other harmful chemicals, and cover or wet down any plants or grass with water before applying. Allow the bleach mixture to remain on for 10 – 15 minutes, then wash it off with a hose or pressure washer.

Repair Driveway

Driveways and sidewalks need periodic maintenance, too.

• Start by removing any grass or weeds that are encroaching on the driveway or growing in cracks.
• Follow this by a thorough cleaning with a pressure washer to remove dirt and grime.
• Next, patch any cracks or holes in concrete surfaces with a concrete resurfacer.
• Worn asphalt drives can be restored by applying a coat of latex asphalt sealer to make them look good as new.

Clean Deck

Wood decks take a lot of abuse from the elements, and they need a good cleaning from time to time to look their best.

• Start by applying a specially formulated deck cleaner in a pump up sprayer.
• Once it has had time to work, clean the deck with a pressure washer—being careful not to damage the wood—or a long handled scrub brush.
• Rinse the deck, and allow it to dry.
• If refinishing is needed, apply a sealer or stain with a pump up sprayer, going over it with a brush to smooth it out.
• Allow the sealer to dry thoroughly before using the deck.

Clean and Repair Screens

Window screens can be cleaned by soaking them in a child’s wading pool filled with soapy water, followed by a gentle scrubbing with a soft scrub brush on a flat surface. As a final step, rinse the screen with a garden hose using a fine spray setting to keep from damaging the screen.

To repair small holes in screens, flatten the fibers out and brush on several coats of clear fingernail polish for a seamless repair. Large tears or holes are best fixed by removing the rubber spline from the screen frame and installing a new piece of screen using a screen spline roller tool.

Repair Roof

Spring is also a good time to examine your roof to see if winter snow and ice have caused any problems that need attention.

• Look for torn or missing shingles that might need replacement or repair.
• Pay particular attention to flashing around chimneys, plumbing vents, and other openings that are prone to leaks. Seal any gaps with roofing cement.
• Cover exposed nail heads with a dab roofing cement.
• Remove leaves, sticks, or other debris that has built up in valleys and against chimneys, porches, or dormers.

Ready the Grill

Whether its charcoal or gas, spring is a good time to get the grill ready for action.

• Use a wire brush and degreasing detergent to clean the wire racks and inside of the grill and remove any rust that has formed over the winter.
• Inspect burners on gas grills for deterioration from rust, and clean the surface. Make sure the holes in the burners aren’t clogged. If necessary, use a small piece of wire to clean them out.
• If the outside of the grill needs painting, prepare it first by lightly sanding the surface and washing it thoroughly to remove all grease. Once it’s totally dry, coat it with a high heat spray paint (often called barbecue and stove enamel).

Clean and Repair Gutters

Gutters are an often overlooked project that needs special attention in the spring. To clean and repair them:

• Make a homemade gutter scoop by cutting down a narrow plastic container such as an antifreeze jug, and use it to remove the bulk of the debris.
• Rinse out gutters without leaving the ground, by making a U-shaped gutter spray wand from ½” or ¾” PVC pipe and couplings. Glue a cap to one end of the pipe with several small holes drilled in it, then use two 90° elbow fittings to create the proper shape, with a threaded adaptor on the other end attached to a garden hose.
• Downspouts have a tendency to clog, so check them by running water through them, and use a plumber’s snake to unclog if needed.
• Check for leaks at gutter joints. When dry, repair gutter leaks from inside the gutter with gutter sealant.

Clean Windows

Spring pollen and dirt can work a number on your windows, so take the time to wash them down and clean them once the pollen has settled.

• Work in the shade to keep the cleaner from drying out too quickly.
• A 50/50 mix of white vinegar and water makes a great natural window cleaner.
• Use crumpled up newspaper, rather than paper towels, to clean and dry your windows.

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Maintaining gutters and downspouts is one of the most often overlooked jobs around the house. It is also one of the most important, since clogged or leaking gutters can quickly lead to rotten fascia boards, peeling paint, or worse.

Importance of Gutters

While it might be tempting to do away with your gutters all together, they serve an important function in areas that receive more than 15” to 20” of rain a year. Gutters direct water away from the house to protect your siding, foundation, and landscaping. Without them, siding can rot, basements flood, and flower beds erode.

Gutter Guards

Though gutter guards allow you to go longer between cleanings, they’re far from foolproof and need to be checked periodically. Pine straw and leaves often become lodged in them, and smaller debris can still filter through to cause big problems. Shielding gutters doesn’t prevent leaks or keep hangers from working loose either.

Cleaning Gutters

To clean gutters, you’ll need a ladder, a garden trowel, bucket lined with a trash bag, a hose, a rag, and a helper. If you encounter serious clogs, you may also need a plumber’s snake.

After you have removed any gutter guards, use the trowel to scoop leaves and debris from the gutter into the bucket.

Add the collected material to a compost pile if you have one, or dispose of it with other lawn debris.

Once the gutters have been cleaned, check the downspouts for clogs by inserting a hose with a rag wrapped around it so that water will be directed through them.

Have your helper turn the water on full force, and check to make sure it is flowing freely from the end of the downspout.

If a downspout has a clog that can’t be cleared with water pressure, use the plumber’s snake to break it up, then use the hose to flush out any remaining debris.

As a last resort, disassemble the downspout and remove the clog. Once the downspout is running freely, start at the far end of the run and rinse the gutter thoroughly with the hose.

Inspection and Repair

After they are clean, inspect and repair the gutters and downspouts as necessary. Make sure all hangers are securely fastened, and use a carpenter’s level to check that the gutters have the proper slope and are not holding water. They should slant down toward the downspouts about ¼” every 10’.

If a section sags, snap a chalk line on the fascia, and remove the hangers in the area.

Measuring from the chalk line, lift the gutter up and reposition the hangers to hold it in place. Water is heavy, and gutters should have a hanger every 2’ as well as within 1’ of any seams.

Now that your gutters are secure and have the correct slope, check them for leaks by running water through them with a hose. Mark any leaks and allow the gutter to dry out thoroughly before patching them with gutter sealant.

Caulking or roofing cement can also be used, and specially formulated self-sticking patches are available to cover damaged areas.

If sealing a joint in the gutter or downspout doesn’t stop the leak, disassemble the joint if possible, clean the two parts, and put them back together using sealant.

Now that your gutters are in tip top shape, check them from time to time while it is raining. If water is spilling over the edges or not running freely from the downspouts, make a note to clean them again as soon as possible.

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Gutters are often installed using aluminum gutter spikes and ferrules which can bend easily and work loose over time. Replacing them with steel gutter screws and rigid plastic ferrules provides a more secure alternative and will prevent them from pulling loose or sagging.

To replace gutter spikes with screws, simply remove the old gutter spike and insert the screw through the existing hole in the front of the gutter. Then use a cordless drill to drive the screw into a new hole in the fascia board. Snug the screw up to the gutter, being careful not to over tighten it.

Clogged overflowing gutters can lead to rotten fascia boards and even cause damage to the foundation. Clean them during dry weather starting at the downspout and working back. Wear gloves and use a gardening trowel or a scoop made from a plastic container. Rather than throwing the leaves and debris away, put them on your compost pile. After the gutters are clean, use a garden hose to wash out the inside, and check to be sure the downspouts are flowing freely.

For more detailed information on cleaning and repairing your gutters, see our article on The Trouble with Gutters.

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Painting the outside of your house needs to be done regularly to provide protection for the siding and trim. A good paint job requires a lot of prep work, which is as important as the painting itself. Houses built before 1979 should be tested to see if the existing paint contains lead, since breathing or ingesting sanding dust from lead based paint can lead to lead poisoning. Regardless, always wear an approved dust mask or respirator, as well as safety glasses or goggles, when scraping or sanding paint.

Here’s how to go about it:

• Treat any mildew with a solution of one part bleach to four parts water mixed with a little detergent or TSP in a pump up sprayer. Rinse off after 10-20 minutes.
• Pressure wash the house to remove any loose paint and dirt, being careful not to damage wood siding or trim, and allow to dry thoroughly.
• Scrape the house to remove any peeling paint using a paint scraper and putty knife.
• If needed, sand the wood smooth with a rotary sander. The goal is not to remove all the paint, just the part that is loose or peeling. Feather out the edges so it looks smooth.
• Use a stain blocking primer over bare wood to prevent knots and sap from bleeding through.
• Caulk any gaps or cracks with a high quality, paintable caulking.
• Apply two top coats of a good quality exterior paint, being sure to follow the directions on the can.

For more information, check out our article on How to Paint Anything Outside.

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Shrubs that are too close to your house can deflect rain onto the siding and prevent moisture from drying out. This can result in rotten wood and provide a fertile environment for mold and mildew to grow. It can also result in a termite infestation. Keep bushes trimmed back at least 12” to 18” away from your house and well back from air conditioner units.

“I’m putting a fence in my backyard and need to find my property line. How do I do that?” – Rick from Alabama

It’s important to know exactly where your property lines are before starting a construction project in your yard. Licensed land surveyors can be found in the phonebook to survey your property and mark the corners of your land. It may also be possible to use a metal detector to locate the original metal pegs that mark the corners of your property.

Whether it’s adding a pool or building a playground for the kids, backyards are a perfect place for family activities. No matter what your backyard plans, remember to keep safety in mind when designing and building your family friendly project.

Fencing

The first step often involves fencing in the backyard to provide privacy and address safety concerns. For young children, consider adding a second gate latch high enough to prevent inquisitive fingers from accessing it. See our article Fences: Surrounding Your Surroundings for more information.

Play Sets

Backyard play sets have come a long way in recent years. The sturdy wooden frameworks and plastic accessories such as those from Rainbow Play Systems not only look great and are kid friendly but hold up to the elements better than traditional metal swing sets.

When purchasing a play set:

• Choose a set your children will grow into, rather than out of.
• Observe your children playing and get their feedback to determine the activities they enjoy.
• Look for a system that can be expanded as your children grow.
• Make sure it’s made of a durable wood like redwood or cedar. Pressure treated pine can be used if the preservative doesn’t contain arsenic or chromium.

Installation of a play set can be done professionally, or you can do-it-yourself. Many sets come with precut wooden parts, though long posts may have to be purchased separately.

When building a play set:

• Keep at least 6’ between the set and other objects such as trees and fences.
• Round sharp edges with a router to prevent injuries.
• Sand rough surfaces to reduce splinters.
• Allow pressure treated wood to dry and weather before staining.

Pools & Hot Tubs

Swimming pools and hot tubs are another popular component in a family friendly backyard. While everyone wants a pool, they’re expensive to build and maintain. See our article on Adding a Pool for more information.

Hot tubs are not only less expensive and easier to install, they use only about $100 a year in chemicals and the water only needs to be changed every four months. Since a full hot tub can weigh from 2,000 to 5,000 pounds, it’s important to be sure you have an adequate slab or reinforced deck capable of supporting the weight. To find out how much your hot tub will weigh, multiply the number of gallons of water it holds by 8.34 pounds then add the empty weight of the unit and weight of the occupants.

Storage Building

In order to maintain your backyard, you need a storage shed to store lawn equipment, tools, and other supplies. Start by checking the city setback requirements to determine how far the shed must be built from property lines. Also, examine any neighborhood restrictions to see if they have regulations concerning the materials, size, or style of storage buildings.

When building or buying a storage shed, consider:

• Size: How much room you’ll need for your tools and equipment.
• Lighting: Since sheds often don’t have power, choose one with natural lighting from windows or skylights.
• Ventilation: To reduce heat and provide fresh air. Cover vents with screen or hardware cloth to keep insects and animals out.
• Accessories: Shelves and hanging racks to organize lawn and garden equipment. Adjustable shelves provide flexible storage space.

The foundation can be a concrete slab or a wooden floor made from pressure treated pine and plywood that’s set off the ground on concrete blocks or pavers.

This 8’ x 10’ storage shed from Lifetime is made from steel reinforced plastic panels that are both strong and durable.

While you can hire professionals to assemble a storage shed kit, it can make a good weekend DIY project and teach older kids basic carpentry skills. You can also have a prebuilt storage building delivered to your home. Before ordering, be sure there’s adequate vertical and horizontal clearance for access to the site and unloading.

For more information, see our article on Sheds.

Family Garden

A family vegetable garden can provide a valuable learning experience for kids while putting food on the table at the same time. Kits are available to start your garden from seeds, or you can buy seedlings from a nursery.

Vegetable gardens can either be planted directly in the ground, in raised beds, or in containers on a patio or porch. It’s important to provide the proper ratio of light, water, soil, and fertilizer for your plants to grow. Visit our Around the Yard website for more information on gardens.

Other Tips From This Episode

Power tools used on Today’s Homeowner with Danny Lipford® are provided by Ryobi.

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