Wireless lighting systems for your home used to be considered a luxury item that could set you back thousands of dollars, but the JetStream Lighting Control System® from CentraLite contains everything you need to control up to five rooms in your house for under $700. Individual wall switches communicate with each other using radio frequency signals without the need for a central controller, making the system easy to install in existing home.

The JetStream Starter Kit comes with five dimmable wall switches and a battery powered remote control which can be used to turn lights on and off from your house or car. Four preprogrammed lighting scenes are included, but up to 100 custom scenes can be programmed using a computer and optional USB interface device. Additional switches and accessories—like an automated timer, tabletop keypad and controllers for lamps—are available as well.

Installation requires a neutral wire at wall switches, which may not be present in some older homes. The JetStream carries a five-year limited warrenty and can be expanded to control thermostats as well as security and entertainment equipment. A searchable database of dealers and installers is available on their website.

Even if your attic is well insulated, the folding stairs that provides access can be a major source of heat loss. They often are poorly sealed and provide only a thin piece of plywood to keep the heated air from escaping.

Begin by checking to see if the attic stairs close tightly then apply self-adhesive foam weather stripping around the perimeter where the plywood door meets the frame, except on the hinge end.

Once the opening has been sealed, it can be further insulated by building a foam box in the attic to enclose the stairs.

Materials for the project cost around $30. Here’s what you’ll need:

Materials List:

• 1 – ¾” x 4’ x 8’ sheet rigid foam board
• 1 – 2” x 30’ roll foil duct tape
• 2 – ¾” x 17’ roll foam tape weather stripping
• 1 – tube caulking (optional)

Be sure to use foil tape since regular duct tape won’t hold up to the heat in the attic.

Start by measuring the dimensions of the opening.

And the height the stairs protrude above the attic floor.

Using a utility knife with a straight edge as a guide, cut strips from the sheet of foam to form the sides of the box. For best results use a new blade so it will cut the foam cleanly. Make the strips an inch or two wider than the stairs extend above the attic floor.

Finish the cuts by bending the piece and cutting from the other side.

Cut the strips to length to form the box using a framing square as a guide then join the corners with foil tape. A bead of caulking can be applied as well to form a better seal.

Attach foam tape weather stripping to the top edge of the box to form a tighter seal. Cut a piece of foam the size of the exterior dimensions of the box for the lid. Tape the lid to the top of the box along one of the long edges with foil tape.

Clean the floor around the attic stairs so the tape will adhere well. Position the box over the opening, making sure it is square.

Attach the box to the floor around the outside with strips of foil tape then run tape along the entire edge.

A bead of caulking can be applied around the inside of the opening to provide a better seal.

Finally, remember to close the lid when you leave the attic.

For those who would prefer to purchase a premade cover, the Attic Tent™ is available in several sizes to fit different openings.

I live in Greenwood, Arkansas. When the temp gets around 35 or below, the windows sweat really bad. It freezes around the frame and I have to scrape it off. Our home is 11 years old but the windows have done this since it was new. My husband says it is the gas fireplace that we use that does it. Would a dehumidifier help? I read that too much humidity would cause it. I even noticed it was sweating on the metal strip at the bottom of the front door last night. I have to go around every day and dry the windows. Can you help? Thanks, Carol

Carol,

We get a lot of questions about windows sweating in the winter. Here’s what’s happening and why.

When air warms it expands, which allows it to hold more moisture. As it cools down, it contracts until it reaches the saturation point and releases this excess water in the form of condensation.

Common daily activities in your home—such as cooking, showering, using unvented gas heat, and even breathing—add moisture to the air. When this warm humid air comes in contact with a cold window or metal threshold, it cools and condenses.

To reduce this problem you need to either lower the amount of moisture in the air inside your home, or prevent it from coming in contact with cold surfaces. Here are some suggestions that might help:

• Run a vent fan in the bathroom when you shower or bath, and leave it on for 15 minutes afterward. Be sure it is vented to the outside and has a high enough capacity for the room. Also, be sure there is a large enough gap under the bathroom door to allow air to enter.

• Vent gas fireplaces, or limit their use, and don’t use older unvented gas space heaters.

• Cut down on cooking that produces excess steam.

• Lower your thermostat to 66-68 degrees.

• Be sure your clothes dryer is vented properly to the outside.

• Seal up any cracks around windows and doors.

• Replace older single pane windows with double or triple pane vinyl ones (avoid metal window frames since they conduct cold), or add storm windows to the outside of your house.

• If you are still having problems, consider installing a dehumidifier.

Before

After

While this covered courtyard featured a beautiful brick fountain, it was hard to keep clean and received little use during the hot summer months along the Gulf Coast. To remedy these problems, the homeowners decided to enclose it by adding a fireplace flanked by glass doors.

Framing

Since the outside entranceway was level with the room, a rubber membrane was placed under the treated 2” x 4” sill to prevent water from seeping inside.

The exterior wall was framed using laminated beams to support the weight over the door openings. After the wall had been sheathed in plywood, the arched door units were held in place and the outline of the opening traced around them. A jigsaw was then used to cut out the opening.

Doors

The doors from JELD-WEN Windows & Doors included a special energy efficient Low-E coating on the glass that reduces the transmission of heat and harmful UV rays. This not only saves energy, but keeps furniture and carpets from fading.

After the exterior wall had been covered with housewrap, the doors were set in place using the same rubber gasket material to seal the thresholds to the floor.

When the door units were square and level, the flange around the casing was nailed to the wall. For added security, several of the hinge screws were replaced with longer 3” ones that go all the way through the casing and into the studs.

Fireplace

Openings were cut in the interior framing for the fireplace insert and flat screen TV above it. The fireplace unit is a ventless gas model, which is important since a chimney would have blocked the existing window above it.

Heating and Cooling

To heat and cool the additional space, a separate unit was installed in the attic with vents cut into the room. Since a major renovation project like this can generate a lot of dust, it’s important to change the air filter at least once a week during construction. While an inexpensive fiberglass filter can be used for this, replace it with a high quality filter when the job is done.

Stucco

When the framing had been completed, cement backer board was screwed to the plywood on the exterior wall to provide a firm foundation for the coats of stucco. Since backer board is hard to cut and shape, trim and accent pieces were made from foam sheets with fiberglass mesh used to give the stucco added strength.

Painting

One of the more challenging tasks was painting the vaulted ceiling. Due to its height, scaffolding had to be set up in the room so the painters could reach it. After the walls, floor, and cabinets had been covered with plastic, the ceiling was sprayed white.

Amenities

The room includes a wine bar with a rack for red wine and a refrigerated cooler for white.

The flat screen television above the fireplace can be concealed behind a retractable painting when not in use.

Other Tips From This Episode

Power tools used on Today’s Homeowner with Danny Lipford® are provided by Ryobi.

Could you wrap your house with a plastic vapor barrier on the outside before you brick it? If not why, because I’ve heard you can on the inside? I know you can use a Tyvek wrap, so why not plastic? - David

David,

When warm moist air cools, it can become saturated and release some of its water vapor in the form of condensation. If this occurs in the walls of your home, it may lead to the growth of mold or cause wood to rot. Vapor barriers, like plastic sheeting, prevent the passage of both liquid water and water vapor while housewraps, such as Tyvek Homewrap®, stop liquid water but allow water vapor to pass through.

In colder climates a vapor barrier is used on the inside of walls to keep warm moisture laden air from escaping during the winter. Installing a vapor barrier on the outside could cause moisture to become trapped behind it or condense in the walls.

In warm humid climates, the use of a vapor barrier on the inside is not recommended since it could have the opposite effect during the summer when the house is air conditioned. This is not as big a problem as in cold climates, however, since the temperature difference is not nearly as great.

Along the coastal southeastern United States, it is now recommended that a vapor barrier be omitted on the inside and put on the outside, though most builders use housewrap instead. In the middle regions of coastal Southern states, vapor barriers may be omitted completely. Other parts of the country, particularly colder northern states, should install a vapor barrier on inside walls and housewrap outside. Further information, including a map showing the recommendations for vapor barrier use, is available at the U.S. Dept. of Energy website.

Vapor barriers are not considered as important under floors or in ceilings, since attics and crawlspaces are usually vented to the outside which allows condensation to escape without becoming trapped.

My house attic is insulated, but I noticed that the attic over the carport is not insulated. The carport is open on two sides. It joins the main house and both attics are open. Does it matter if the carport attic is not insulated? - David

Hi David,

No, it’s not a problem at all. Since the air in the shared attic space is not heated or cooled and is vented to the outside anyway, it doesn’t matter if the area over the carport is insulated. In fact it is better that it’s not in order to lessen the possibility of moisture condensing in that part of your attic.

I have a new house with a metal roof and without a ridge vent. Please recommend a vent system without cutting holes in the metal roof.
Bjorn

Bjorn,

That would depend on the style of roof you have. If your house has a gable roof, you can install a vent in each gable then mount an exhaust fan in the attic behind one of them that is controlled by a thermostat. If you have a hip roof, you would either have to replace the existing ridge with a vented one—making sure the roofing and sheathing at the peak are cut back so air from the attic can escape through it—or mount a power vent fan on the roof itself, which would require cutting a hole in the roofing.

If you decide on a roof mounted fan, position it high up on the back of your roof, but not so high that it is visible from the front. Solar powered models are available that don’t require wiring, though they are more expensive than hard wired ones. Be sure the soffit under the eaves is vented so outside air can enter the attic.

Whether it’s sealing around the tub, keeping a winter chill at bay, or hiding unsightly cracks in crown molding, caulking plays an important and often overlooked role in your home. Used to bridge gaps where materials meet, caulking performs the essential function of keeping water and outside air where they belong, which can prevent mold and rot from forming in your walls and save money on energy bills. In addition, caulking can make your house look better and paint jobs last longer. While today’s high-tech caulk is very durable, it won’t last forever. When it begins to fail, repair the joint as soon as possible to prevent damage to your home.

Caulking Considerations

When choosing caulk for a particular job, take into account:

• Materials – Some caulks adhere better to certain materials than others.
• Moisture – In areas that stay wet, such as around a tub or sink, use a caulk that is highly resistant to both water and mildew.
• Temperature – Some caulks can only be applied in warm weather while others aren’t designed to handle extreme changes in temperature.
• Location – When caulking outdoors, choose one that will hold up to the elements and is flexible enough to withstand movement in the joint.
• Paintable – While most caulks can be painted over after they have cured, others cannot.
• Application – Some caulks are easy to apply and can be cleaned up with water while others are messy and require solvents. Several caulks have a strong odor while curing and a few even release noxious fumes.

Types of Caulk

While there are many specialized caulks on the market, the most common ones used by homeowners are:

• Acrylic Latex – Good for general applications such as sealing around windows, doors, and moldings. May be used both inside and out as long as the temperature is 40ºF or higher while curing. Can be painted and also comes in colors. Water and mildew resistant but needs to dry thoroughly before getting wet. Not as flexible as silicone or butyl rubber, but easier to apply and cleans up with soap and water.
• Butyl Rubber – Forms a highly water resistant sealant and is excellent for caulking concrete, brick, or metal surfaces. Can be painted when completely cured. Remains flexible and is a good choice for joints that expand and contract, like gutters and roof flashing. Messy to use and requires solvent for cleanup.
• Silicone – Best for sealing glass, metal, ceramic tile, and other non-porous surfaces. Doesn’t adhere well to porous materials like wood and masonry. While most brands cannot be painted, it’s available in clear and several colors. Remains flexible after drying. Since nothing sticks to cured silicone—including more silicone—it is hard to repair and leaves a film behind that is difficult to remove. Can be applied at almost any temperature. Emits a sharp odor when curing and requires solvent for cleanup.
• Kitchen and Bath – Specifically designed for areas subject to high moisture like around sinks and tubs. Comes in a variety of colors that resist mold and mildew growth. Allow to dry thoroughly before getting wet. Cleans up with soap and water.

Application Tools

Though most caulk is sold in tubes that require a caulking gun, it’s also available in handy squeeze tubes for smaller projects and pressurized cans which can be used for large gaps such as around door frames and windows.

Caulking guns consist of a cradle that holds the tube, a plunger to push the caulk out, and a trigger to control the flow. They range in price from under $2 for bottom of the line models to over $200 for battery powered ones that work at the push of a button. Those in the $10 to $20 price range feature notable improvements such as:

• Dripless – The flow stops when the trigger is released without having to manually disengage the plunger.
• Cutter – Used to trim the tube nozzle to size.
• Seal Punch – Punctures the aluminum seal in caulking tubes.
• High Ratio – More thrust in the plunger results in less hand fatigue.

Applying Caulk

Be sure to use only fresh caulk. When in doubt squeeze a little out and let it dry overnight to see if it hardens properly. Caulking is an acquired skill that takes a bit of practice to master, so practice on scrap until you get the hang of it.

Start by cutting the nozzle at a 45 degree angle equal in width to the gap you plan to fill. Cutting too wide a hole not only wastes caulk but makes the bead more noticeable and harder to smooth out.

Puncture the seal on the tube using the punch on the caulking gun or a nail.

Place the tube in the gun and push the plunger up snug. Squeeze the trigger until caulk starts to come out of the nozzle. Put the nozzle in the gap and pull the gun slowly toward you at a 45 degree angle while pushing the trigger. The bead should contact both sides of the joint and fill the gap.

Use a clean wet finger, damp rag, or special caulk smoothing tool to even out the bead before it skims over.

Wear disposable gloves to keep your hands clean when using silicone and other solvent based caulks.

To make a straight line, use strips of painter’s tape on each side of the gap. After applying the caulk and smoothing it out, peel off the tape.

More Information:

• U.S. Department of Energy Caulking Guide

Related Articles

• How To Caulk Effectively
• Caulk Saving Trick (video)
• Caulking a Tub

We live in Dallas. Our large front windows face west. Is there any new window product that will make the rooms shady and keep out the heat in summer? We have sun screens but all the manufactures say if we reattached the screens to their replacement windows it voids the warrenty. We are looking at about $13,000 to replace the front windows and want the best we can get to block the sun and heat. Winters are not a problem here. Thanks, Janette

Hi Janette,

Windows have come a long way in recent years and are now able to deflect much of the sunlight in the summer while at the same time retaining the heat inside your home during the winter. One of the biggest advancements has been in low-E coatings. These almost invisible films of metallic oxide are applied to one or more surfaces of the glass during manufacture and can markedly reduce the amount of sunlight and heat that enters or leaves your home. For even more protection, you can combine a low-E coating with tinted glass. Be sure to discuss your options with the window manufacturer in advance so they can make specific recommendations to fit your situation.
Danny

½” plywood with a heat emission plate on one side and a dovetail groove on the other is installed under pre-finished hardwood. 5/16” plastic PEX tubing fits in the groove and conducts to the heat emission plate distributing heat across the floor.