While hanging drywall can seem intimidating, with the right tools and techniques, it’s not as difficult as you might imagine. Drywall—also known as wallboard, plasterboard, and by the trade name Sheetrock®—is made from gypsum cement that is covered with paper to give it added strength and a smooth surface.

Drywall comes in thicknesses ranging from ¼” to ¾”, with ½” being the most common. Standard sizes are 4’ x 8’ and 4’x 12’ though 54” widths are available for use on 9’ ceilings. While longer sheets are heavier and hard to deal with, they reduce the number of joints, making finishing easier. Since lifting heavy sheets can be a challenge, consider renting a drywall lift, such as PanelLift, when hanging ceilings.

Apply drywall to the ceiling first then the walls, with long sides at right angles to the framing and the ends centered on studs.

Drywall Tools

Only a few simple tools are needed to cut drywall:

• Measuring tape
• Utility knife
• Straight edge
• Drywall saw
• Drywall keyhole saw
• Drywall rasp or sanding block

Cutting Drywall

Drywall can be cut by either scoring or sawing. Scoring is best for cutting sheets to length or width while sawing is used to cut holes and openings for windows and doors.

Scoring

Scoring is the easiest and least messy method of cutting drywall. Using a straight edge or chalk line as a guide, cut through the paper and into the gypsum on the face side of the sheet with a sharp utility knife.

While supporting the sheet on the back, apply pressure to the face, causing the piece to break cleanly along the joint.

Score the paper on the back with the utility knife to compete the cut.

If needed, use a drywall rasp or sanding block to smooth the cut edge.

Sawing

A drywall saw is used to make cuts for windows and doors while a smaller keyhole saw is perfect for cutting around electrical boxes and other small openings. Make the cuts from the front side when possible to keep from roughing up the paper on the face.

When marking the locations for cuts, follow the old carpenter’s adage of measuring twice and cutting once to avoid making costly mistakes.

Door and Window Cutouts

Since drywall is cut around doors and windows before the casings are attached, a perfect fit isn’t necessary. While professional drywall hangers often use a special high-speed rotary tool to cut around openings with the sheet in place, most do-it-yourself projects will involve measuring and cutting the sheet before it is installed.

Start by measuring horizontally from the corner of the room to the edge of the jamb and transfer the measurement to the drywall. Mark the waste side with an “X” to keep from accidentally cutting the wrong piece. Next, measure vertically down from the ceiling or up from floor and transfer that measurement to the sheet as well.

Mark the drywall on the face with a straightedge and make the shorter of the two cuts with the drywall saw. Next, score the other line and snap off the cut piece.

Electrical Box Cutouts

The holes for electrical boxes need to be a tighter fit than those around windows and doors. The most common method is to measure and mark the location of the cutouts, then draw the outline on the sheet using an extra electrical box as a guide.

Another method is to rub a tube of lipstick around the edge of the box, hold the sheet in place, and press it against the box to transfer the outline to the drywall.

Once the location has been marked, cut around it with a keyhole saw by plunging the sharp point into the sheet. Hold the blade at an angle so the cutout is slightly larger on the back than on the front.

Put the sheet in place and use a utility knife to adjust the fit around the box if needed, keeping the gap 1/8” or less.

Hanging Drywall

Drywall can either be nailed or attached using drywall screws. While nailing is faster, nails tend to work out over time, leaving unsightly bulges in the finished wall. Drywall screws not only stay put, but hold better, so not as many are needed.

Use 1¼” ring shank drywall nails when nailing ½” drywall. A crown-head hammer is used to drive the nails below the surface and denting the drywall without tearing the paper. Position nails ½” from the edge and every 7” for ceilings and 8” for walls.

When attaching drywall with screws, use 1¼” bungle head drywall screws. A drill equipped with an adjustable clutch is used to drive the screws just below the surface without breaking the paper.

Locate screws ½” in from the edges and every 12” for ceilings and 16” for walls. Construction adhesive can be applied to the studs first to give an even stronger bond while reducing the number of screws or nails.

Drywall Tips

Here are a few helpful tips to make your drywall project go more smoothly:

• Have a helper on hand to help with the heavy lifting.
• Use a pencil for marking, since a pen or marker may bleed through paint.
• Keep a sharp blade in the utility knife to cut the paper cleanly.
• Have a trash can nearby for scraps.
• Take breaks and don’t try to do too much, since most mistakes occur when you’re tired.

Doing a good job hanging the drywall will result in less work finishing and a better looking completed project.

Related Articles

• Cutting Drywall Around Outlet Boxes

My dryer vents into my attic. What can I do to have it vented outside to prevent lint buildup and to make it less of a fire hazard? - Cindy

Hi Cindy,

You’re right to be concerned. In addition to being against most building codes and a potential fire hazard, venting a dryer in an attic can result in moisture problems which could lead to rot or mold in your attic. Check out our video on Dryer Vent Safety for more information.

If your laundry room has access to an outside wall, cut a hole and install a standard dryer vent. Be careful you don’t cut through any studs, electrical wires, or pipes in the process. If venting outside isn’t an option, you can vent the dryer out of the attic through the roof using a special roof vent to keep rain out. When venting dryers for long distances, use rigid metal pipe with as few elbows as possible. Attach the sections together with metallic duct tape—rather than sheet metal screws—to prevent lint buildup around the protruding screw inside the pipe.

Check your dryer manual for the maximum length of pipe and number of bends allowed. It’s a good idea to make the vent pipe easily detachable in the attic to allow you to clean it from time to time. If the vent is longer than recommended, a booster vent fan can be installed in the pipe to increase the distance. To learn more, see our Dryer Vent Extension video.

Solid surface countertops are a popular choice with homeowners since they are durable and scratches can easily be sanded out. Another advantage of this type of material is that seams are glued together in such as way as to make them practically invisible.

Since these countertops were ordered with a thick edge, the top of the cabinets had to be built up with strips of plywood before the countertops could be installed.

The countertop material was delivered a bit wider and longer than needed, allowing it to be scribed and trimmed to a perfect fit on site.

Next, cutouts for the range and other appliances are made and sanded smooth.

Long sections of countertop are glued together with a special adhesive and clamped in place until dry.

Once the glue had set, the clamps were removed, and the seam sanded smooth.

When everything was ready, the countertops were glued to the cabinets with adhesive.

Is it difficult to replace an existing telephone jack? Does the electricity need to be turned off to replace it? -Sylvia

Sylvia,

Replacing a phone jack in not difficult and typically just requires transferring the color coded wires from the old jack to the matching terminals on the new one. While telephone lines do have 48 volts of electricity running through them, it’s usually not enough to cause a shock, though it may affect a pacemaker.

The electricity in a phone line does spike to around 90 volts when the phone rings, which can give a mild shock. To prevent this from happening, unplug the modular jack at the telephone interface box where the line runs into your house, and check to be sure the phone is dead before working on it. Another option is to take a second phone off the hook to prevent it from ringing.

Since phone lines have their own source of electricity, they remain energized even when the power is off, so flipping the breakers to your house will not make any difference. Also, never work on the phone line during a thunderstorm since lightning can travel through the wire and result in serious injury.

For more information on replacing a phone jack, see our article How to Install a Phone Jack.

From vaulted to tray to coffered, it seems like the sky’s the limit for ceilings these days. Specialty ceilings can add a distinctive design element to a room and make it feel larger than it really is. And when it’s time to sell your home, custom ceilings might be just the thing to make your house stand out from the crowd.

Cathedral Wood Ceiling

The cathedral ceiling in this home features tongue and groove boards framed with rough sawn beams. A layer of drywall was put up first to maximize energy efficiency and reduce noise. This was then followed by 1”x 6” pine boards and cedar trim. Track lights will be mounted in the slots on the ceiling, allowing the lighting to be adjusted to illuminate specific areas.

Painted Coffered Ceiling

Wood trim can be used to dress up a bland ceiling and give the room a more formal feel. This coffered ceiling consists of crisscrossed wooden beams applied over drywall with each square accented by a border of crown molding. A contrasting paint color was used on the recessed part of the ceiling to highlight the intricate trim work.

Wooden Barrel Ceiling

Ceilings can also be used to mirror the shape of other architectural features found in the room. This wooden barrel shaped ceiling follows the curve of the arched doorways found at each end of the room.

Circular Dropped Ceiling

Another interesting ceiling design is this circular dropped ceiling. It includes stenciling around the rim with a center medallion and hanging chandelier acting as the focal point.

Recessed Ceiling

Recessed ceilings—also known as pocket, tray (or trey), and bumped up ceilings—have become a common feature of new houses today. Typically these types of ceilings start with a lower border around the outer edge of the room and are then raised a foot or more in the middle. They may also include sloped or tiered designs accented by crown and other moldings.

Vaulted Ceiling

Often when an attic is converted into living space, the ceiling follows the slope of the roof to allow for additional floor space while providing enough ceiling height. It’s a good idea to flatten the ceiling out a few feet below the peak, however, to leave space for lighting, electrical wires, and ductwork.

Remodeling a Ceiling

While most specialty ceilings are incorporated into the plans when the house is built, ceilings in existing homes can be modified as well. Remodeling a ceiling requires careful consideration of the structural load carried by the ceiling joists before they can be removed. Once the existing ceiling has been taken out and the joists cut, work on the new ceiling can begin.

Any wiring, plumbing, or ductwork located above the room has to be taken into account and rerouted above the new ceiling. This can present a daunting task for the electrician and HVAC contractor.

Turtleback Wood Ceiling

This renovation project included turning a typical flat ceiling into a multifaceted turtleback ceiling over the expanded kitchen and den area. After the framing was complete, the beams were covered with painted 1”x 6” V-groove pine boards.

When installing solid wood, be sure to stagger the joints. A grooved block, made from a piece of scrap material, is used to protect the tongue when hammering the boards in place.

Tongue and groove boards can be blind nailed through the tongue so nail heads are not visible, or face nailed. Wooden ceilings may be painted or stained and provide an attractive alternative to drywall, though both the labor and materials cost much more.

Laminate Ceiling

Simulated wood ceilings made from laminate materials, such as Armstrong’s WoodHaven, are a do-it-yourself friendly substitute for natural wood. While the material costs are about the same as well real wood, the installation of laminate ceilings is much less expensive, since they come prefinished.

Stamped Metal Ceiling

Decorative stamped metal can make a striking ceiling with a unique character all their own. Products like Armstrong’s Metallaire™ ceiling panels are available in dozens of patterns and finishes from steel and copper to chrome and brass.

Other Tips From This Episode

Power tools used on Today’s Homeowner with Danny Lipford® are provided by Ryobi.

We put some of the more common fasteners to the test to see which ones held the most weight in drywall, caused the least damage, and are easiest to use. For shear holding power, anchors that spread out behind the wall did the best, but they also did the most damage to the wall. Since most pictures weigh less than ten pounds, the size of the hole and ease of installation may be more important than the actual holding ability of the fastener.

Test Results

Tests were conducted using downward pressure on a hollow section of standard ½” drywall. While all of these fasteners can be used in plaster as well, the holding power may vary and precautions should be taken to keep the wall from cracking.

Prices are approximate and may differ depending on brand and quantity. While the fasteners pulled out of the wall at the pounds listed (except for toggles, which remained intact), they started showing signs of failure at 10-30 pounds less, so be sure to include an adequate safety margin in your calculations.

Toggle Bolts

Toggle bolts are available in various diameters and lengths to accommodate different wall thicknesses. While the clear winner for sheer holding power, they require drilling a large opening to insert the spring loaded toggle, leaving them wallowing in an oversized hole. Also, they are almost impossible to remove without the toggle falling off inside the wall.

New self-drilling threaded toggles offer improvements over traditional ones since the hole fits tightly around the anchor and the center screw can be removed while the toggle body remains in place. They are easy to install, though difficult to remove. For maximum holding power with hanging objects, position them so the long arm of the toggle points up. This also makes it possible to remove them without tearing up the wall. On the downside, threaded toggles leave a substantial hole and are the most expensive of any of the anchors tested.

Molly Bolts

Like toggles, molly bolts work by spreading out behind the wall. They are installed by hammering them into the wall then tightening the bolt, which causes the casing to flair out. Mollies have an annoying tendency to spin in drywall when being tightened and are impossible to remove once installed. Your best bet is to hammer them below the surface of the wall and spackle over them. On the positive side, mollies fit snuggly in the hole and the center bolt can be removed and replaced as needed.

Threaded Anchors

The oversized threads on these anchors are designed to screw directly into drywall. They’re available in nylon or brass and come with either a center screw or picture hook. The brass version with hook held more weight than the center screw type. While threaded anchors hold well and are easy to install and remove, they leave a nice sized hole behind should you decide to redecorate in the future.

Plastic Anchors

These often used fasteners are hammered in a hole drilled in the wall and press against the sides when a screw is inserted. Though they work well in hard materials, such as brick and concrete block, they are not the best choice in drywall. For best results use ribbed anchors that are split, which allows them to spread out a bit behind the wall.

Picture Hangers

Traditional metal picture hangers come in several sizes and are nailed into the wall. While they don’t support as much weight as many other fasteners, they are easy to install and remove, and leave a much smaller hole.

A new twist is the WallBiter™ which is available in either plastic or brass. This molded one piece hanger has two curved prongs that are hammered into the wall. While only rated at 25 pounds, the large plastic version we tested held 80 pounds before beginning to show signs of failure. On the down side, it causes more damage to the wall than traditional picture hangers and costs more.

Wire Hangers

Another newcomer to picture hanging is a curved spring steel wire that can be inserted in the wall without tools in a matter of seconds. While some brands claim they hold up to 150 pounds, in our tests they began to pull out of drywall at around 40 pounds and failed at 50, which is still more than most pictures weigh. Wire hangers are easy to remove and leave a small hole. However, they cost more than traditional picture hangers and will only work where there is not a stud or other obstruction present in the wall.

Related Article

• Hanging Pictures Right the First Time

I patched a big hole in my wall with drywall and put spackling over the drywall. Was this wrong? -Yolunda

Yolunda,

While similar in nature, spackling is usually used to fill nail holes and other minor imperfections while joint compound is the best choice for finishing drywall. Spackling is thicker and shrinks less than joint compound, but joint compound goes on smoother and is easier to sand. Both spackling and joint compound should only be applied in thin layers and allowed to dry thoroughly between coats.

Once you’ve cut the drywall patch and nailed or screwed it in place, rough up the painted surface around it with sandpaper and wipe off any dust with a damp sponge. Next, apply either mesh or paper drywall tape over the joints where the two pieces meet to reinforce the seams and keep them from cracking.

Fiberglass mesh tape is easier to use since it has an adhesive on one side which is applied directly to the surface of the drywall. It is then covered by several coats of joint compound and sanded smooth. When using paper tape, apply a thin layer of joint compound to the seam first then press the tape into the compound with a drywall taping knife. After it has dried, apply additional coats of joint compound and sand the wall smooth.

Before

After

You don’t have to hire a contractor and spend a fortune remodeling your kitchen. With a little creativity and by doing much of the work yourself, you can end up with the kitchen of your dreams without breaking the bank.

Ordering Cabinet Doors

While the tile floor and cabinets in this kitchen were in good shape, the doors, drawer fronts, and countertops had seen better days. After measuring the cabinet openings, unfinished raised panel doors and drawer fronts were ordered through the local home center from Quality Doors.

Be sure to follow the instructions on the order form carefully, remembering to take into account the overlay around the doors and the number of doors per opening.

Prep Work

After the old doors, drawers, and countertops had been removed, any necessary modifications were made to the cabinets. These included installing a narrow cabinet next to the door and trimming the hanging cabinet to accommodate a microwave over the stove.

A two-part auto body filler was used to patch holes in the cabinets since it sets up quickly and doesn’t shrink. Start by mixing a small amount of catalyst with the filler.

Then use a putty knife to push the filler into the holes, removing any excess before it sets up.

Once it has hardened, sand the filler flush with the wood.

Painting

To prepare the cabinets for painting, a liquid deglosser was applied to allow the new paint to bond with the old. When using deglosser, body filler, or any flammable or hazardous material, be sure to read and follow all safety instructions.

The cabinets were primed with a yellow tinted primer. This was followed by black latex enamel on the exterior and yellow paint in the interior. Sheets of plastic were used to create a temporary spray booth in the storage shed to paint the doors.

Inside, a foam roller was used to give the cabinets a uniform texture.

Countertops

The countertops from VT Industries were made with Wilsonart Bella Capri plastic laminate. They featured a Barcelona double-waterfall molded edge that gives them the look of natural granite at a much lower cost.

A Culinaire™ stainless steel sink and faucet from American Standard were installed before the countertop was put in place to minimize the time spent working in cramped quarters. After a bead of caulking had been applied to the rim around the sink, it was attached to the countertop with fastening clips. The faucet and sink strainers went in as well, leaving only the supply lines and drain pipe to be hooked up.

When everything was ready, tinted sealant was applied to the mitered ends of the countertop. The two pieces were carefully aligned and joined together with miter bolts in precut slots before being screwed to the cabinets.

Amenities

Once the countertop was in place, a Compact Evolution Series™ food waste disposer from InSinkErator was installed. An optional air assisted SinkTop Switch™ makes using it a breeze.

A combination microwave/convection oven/vent hood from GE was installed over the stove. The unit mounts on a metal plate that is attached to the wall. Once in place, it is secured to the hanging cabinet.

Hanging Cabinet Doors

The cabinet doors featured adjustable European style hinges that were tapped in place with a rubber mallet. Expanding plastic anchors secure the hinge to the door without driving any screws.

To hang the doors, a strip of wood was clamped to the face frame of the cabinet for the doors to rest on, which allowed for perfect alignment. A cordless drill/driver made quick work of drilling the pilot holes and driving the hinge screws into the cabinet frame.

The doors were then fine-tuned by turning the adjusting screws on the hinges.

After the doors and drawer fronts had been attached, the cabinets were distressed to give them an antique look by lightly sanding along the edges until the yellow primer peeked through.

The final touch was installing the Amerock weathered nickel drawer pulls and door knobs.

Other Tips From This Episode

Power tools used on Today’s Homeowner with Danny Lipford® are provided by Ryobi.

Whether it’s sealing around the tub, keeping a winter chill at bay, or hiding unsightly cracks in crown molding, caulking plays an important and often overlooked role in your home. Used to bridge gaps where materials meet, caulking performs the essential function of keeping water and outside air where they belong, which can prevent mold and rot from forming in your walls and save money on energy bills. In addition, caulking can make your house look better and paint jobs last longer. While today’s high-tech caulk is very durable, it won’t last forever. When it begins to fail, repair the joint as soon as possible to prevent damage to your home.

Caulking Considerations

When choosing caulk for a particular job, take into account:

• Materials – Some caulks adhere better to certain materials than others.
• Moisture – In areas that stay wet, such as around a tub or sink, use a caulk that is highly resistant to both water and mildew.
• Temperature – Some caulks can only be applied in warm weather while others aren’t designed to handle extreme changes in temperature.
• Location – When caulking outdoors, choose one that will hold up to the elements and is flexible enough to withstand movement in the joint.
• Paintable – While most caulks can be painted over after they have cured, others cannot.
• Application – Some caulks are easy to apply and can be cleaned up with water while others are messy and require solvents. Several caulks have a strong odor while curing and a few even release noxious fumes.

Types of Caulk

While there are many specialized caulks on the market, the most common ones used by homeowners are:

• Acrylic Latex – Good for general applications such as sealing around windows, doors, and moldings. May be used both inside and out as long as the temperature is 40ºF or higher while curing. Can be painted and also comes in colors. Water and mildew resistant but needs to dry thoroughly before getting wet. Not as flexible as silicone or butyl rubber, but easier to apply and cleans up with soap and water.
• Butyl Rubber – Forms a highly water resistant sealant and is excellent for caulking concrete, brick, or metal surfaces. Can be painted when completely cured. Remains flexible and is a good choice for joints that expand and contract, like gutters and roof flashing. Messy to use and requires solvent for cleanup.
• Silicone – Best for sealing glass, metal, ceramic tile, and other non-porous surfaces. Doesn’t adhere well to porous materials like wood and masonry. While most brands cannot be painted, it’s available in clear and several colors. Remains flexible after drying. Since nothing sticks to cured silicone—including more silicone—it is hard to repair and leaves a film behind that is difficult to remove. Can be applied at almost any temperature. Emits a sharp odor when curing and requires solvent for cleanup.
• Kitchen and Bath – Specifically designed for areas subject to high moisture like around sinks and tubs. Comes in a variety of colors that resist mold and mildew growth. Allow to dry thoroughly before getting wet. Cleans up with soap and water.

Application Tools

Though most caulk is sold in tubes that require a caulking gun, it’s also available in handy squeeze tubes for smaller projects and pressurized cans which can be used for large gaps such as around door frames and windows.

Caulking guns consist of a cradle that holds the tube, a plunger to push the caulk out, and a trigger to control the flow. They range in price from under $2 for bottom of the line models to over $200 for battery powered ones that work at the push of a button. Those in the $10 to $20 price range feature notable improvements such as:

• Dripless – The flow stops when the trigger is released without having to manually disengage the plunger.
• Cutter – Used to trim the tube nozzle to size.
• Seal Punch – Punctures the aluminum seal in caulking tubes.
• High Ratio – More thrust in the plunger results in less hand fatigue.

Applying Caulk

Be sure to use only fresh caulk. When in doubt squeeze a little out and let it dry overnight to see if it hardens properly. Caulking is an acquired skill that takes a bit of practice to master, so practice on scrap until you get the hang of it.

Start by cutting the nozzle at a 45 degree angle equal in width to the gap you plan to fill. Cutting too wide a hole not only wastes caulk but makes the bead more noticeable and harder to smooth out.

Puncture the seal on the tube using the punch on the caulking gun or a nail.

Place the tube in the gun and push the plunger up snug. Squeeze the trigger until caulk starts to come out of the nozzle. Put the nozzle in the gap and pull the gun slowly toward you at a 45 degree angle while pushing the trigger. The bead should contact both sides of the joint and fill the gap.

Use a clean wet finger, damp rag, or special caulk smoothing tool to even out the bead before it skims over.

Wear disposable gloves to keep your hands clean when using silicone and other solvent based caulks.

To make a straight line, use strips of painter’s tape on each side of the gap. After applying the caulk and smoothing it out, peel off the tape.

More Information:

• U.S. Department of Energy Caulking Guide

Related Articles

• How To Caulk Effectively
• Caulk Saving Trick (video)
• Caulking a Tub

Plaster walls in older homes are often plagued by cracks and other defects such as pitting and uneven texture. If cracks are simply filled with spackling or joint compound, they have a tendency to telegraph back through. To solve this problem, apply self-adhesive fiberglass mesh drywall tape over the crack for reinforcement.

Cover the tape with several coats of joint compound to make the crack disappear. Mesh tape also helps prevent a ridge or “crown” from forming over the crack, as is often the case when traditional paper drywall tape is used.

If the walls have an uneven texture or are badly pitted, apply a thin skim coat of joint compound to the entire surface then sand the walls smooth.

To further enhance the look of the walls, an “orange peel” finish can be applied before painting. This is done by thinning the joint compound down and spraying it on the walls to even out any imperfections and give a textured look.