Danny Lipford » Interior

Adhesive Tile Setting Mat

Jodi Marks — Mon, 16 Nov 2009 13:00:22 +0000

SimpleMat is a double sided, adhesive sheet that is perfect for attaching tile to a countertop or backsplash. It can be used on drywall, plywood, plastic laminate, or painted surfaces. Simply cut the mat to fit, press in place, peel off backing, and attach tile. SimpleMat is available at The Home Depot.

How to Remove Glue and Adhesive from Floors

Danny Lipford — Wed, 26 Aug 2009 13:24:18 +0000

Floor scraper Spyder Scraper Power scraper

When removing glued down flooring, such as vinyl or linoleum, it’s important to get as much of the old adhesive off the subfloor as possible to provide a smooth surface for the new flooring. There are several tools that can be used to remove flooring adhesive, including:

Hand Scraper: A simple hand floor scraper has a metal blade mounted on a handle. Using one can take a lot of work, so be sure to wear gloves to avoid blisters.
Reciprocating Saw: When equipped with a scraper attachment, such as the Spyder Scraper, this common power tool can make quick work of removing dried adhesive from almost any surface.
Power Scraper: This walk behind machine is the fastest way to scrape a floor. Available at tool rental stores.

Adding a Built-in Ironing Board

Danny Lipford — Tue, 24 Mar 2009 15:25:10 +0000

Adding a built-in ironing board is a great way to maximize space in the laundry room. Models made by NuTone are designed to fit between two studs on 16” centers and come with a shelf to hold the iron as well as a plug and light.

When the ironing board is extended, it pivots to allow it to turn sideways in tight quarters. The door on the cabinet is available in a number of styles and finishes ranging from natural wood to a beveled mirror.

To see what’s involved in adding a fold down ironing board to your laundry room, check out our video and article on How to Install a Built-in Ironing Board.

Is It Particle Board or Not?

Complete Closet Makeover

Danny Lipford — Mon, 23 Mar 2009 18:09:09 +0000

Typical closets contain little more than a clothes rod with a shelf above it. To provide better use of the space, a complete closet makeover can be turned over to a company that specializes in organizational solutions.

The process begins with a consultant coming to the home to measure the closet and determine the homeowner’s needs. A laptop computer with special CAD software is used to design and layout the closet.

Prefinished components are then selected and cut to size in the shop before being delivered to the home. Installation starts with a support track being mounted on the back wall. Vertical dividers hang from the track and are topped by a fixed shelf. The closet components—including clothes rods, drawers, pullout baskets, and adjustable shelves—are installed between the dividers.

A custom professional makeover for your closet can run more than $1,000. If that’s a little steep for your budget, you can do the work yourself using stock materials that are available at home improvement centers.

Further Information

For more information on maximizing storage space, check out our articles on:

(701) Small Space, Big Impact: Bedroom Makeover

Winterizing Your Home

Danny Lipford — Fri, 09 Jan 2009 20:08:17 +0000

Keeping the heat up and your energy bill down

With the colder months here many Americans are looking for ways to save money on the rising cost of heating their homes. In addition, this is also the time of year when homeowners may want to take a look at some unwanted visitors who can do some real damage to areas of the home you may never see.

Sealing Up And Insulating the Home

The main goal of sealing up and insulating your home is simple – keep the warm air in and the cold air out! In the average home, if you added up all the cracks and gaps, the area would be approximately three square feet! Just imagine the amount of cold air that can come in through those spaces and of course the amount of warm air that can sneak out. Check out the following areas where the biggest losses can occur:

Attic Insulation

Since warm air rises, it goes without saying that if you don’t have enough insulation in the attic, your heating bills are quite literally going through the roof. One of the most common and effective ways of saving heat is by making sure you have enough. If you’re not sure, go in your attic and see if the ceiling joists are visible. If they are, you need more. Also, different areas of the country require differing R-values of insulation, which translates into a thickness of the insulation. Check with your local home center, and they will be able to advise you on the recommended R-value for your area.

Sealing Up Cracks

Cracks around windows, on perimeter walls and at electrical outlets that are located on an exterior wall can create a tremendous leak of warm air out and cold air in. Caulk any gaps and seal up cracks and holes to provide a more airtight envelope around your home. Also, check your weather stripping, and replace or adjust any that is worn or doesn’t fit tightly.

Inefficient Windows

While this is a time of year that many homeowners choose to replace old windows that rattle and the wind blows right through, purchasing new insulated glass windows is expensive and requires some planning. http://www.dannylipford.com/diy-home-improvement/design-and-decor/choosing-the-right-windows/ A terrific interim solution is to install window insulation kits that contain plastic sheeting to cover the window. They are very easy to install, can completely insulate the window, and costs only about $3 per window.

Unwanted Guests

In the summer the unwanted guests include ants and in-laws while in the winter it’s rodents and in-laws, but all year long the worst uninvited guests are termites. This is an excellent time of year to have an annual termite inspection to make sure that, if any termites are present, they are eliminated COMPLETELY. According to the National Pest Management Association, damage caused by termites is upwards of two billion dollars.

Getting the Most of Your Heating System

Now that you have insulated your home and made sure that there are no critters gnawing away at your foundation, the next step is to make sure you are getting the best possible performance from your current heating system. One of the first steps is to have your heating system serviced by a professional to make sure it is operating at maximum efficiency. It is also a good idea to change your air filter at least once a month.

Another way to maximize on your current heating systems is to replace your existing thermostat with a computerized setback or progammable thermostat. By setting it to fit your daily routine, you can be sure that your home is warm when you want it to be, and not when you are way from home.

(702) Four Step Energy Makeover: How to Make Your Home More Energy Efficient

Sealing Grout in Tile Floors

Danny Lipford — Wed, 27 Aug 2008 14:01:34 +0000

While ceramic tile is a durable, low maintenance material, the grout between the tiles is not. Unless stain-proof grout was used, the grout will need to be sealed. Allow the grout in new floors to cure for 30 days before sealing.

If the grout is stained or dirty, use a mild breach solution and scrub brush to clean it, then allow the floor to dry completely before sealing. If the sealer doesn’t come with an applicator, buy a separate applicator bottle with interchangeable tips. If the grout has become stained and won’t come clean, use a special grout stain pen that both stains and seals it at the same time.

How to Contain Dust During Remodeling

Joe Truini — Tue, 26 Aug 2008 19:41:46 +0000

There’s no way around it, if you’re remolding the inside of your home, you’re going to create dust. The secret is to contain the dust in the room you’re working on and keep it out of the rest of the house. To do this, cover all doorways in the room with sheets of thick (6 mil) plastic.

Instead of taping the plastic up, use a staple gun. To make it easy to take the plastic down without tearing it, tape a popsicle stick to the bottom of the staple gun to act as a spacer.

Staple the plastic up over the doorway.

The spacer will keep the staples from going all the way in, making them easy to remove later.

Tips for Moving into a College Dorm Room

Danny Lipford — Fri, 22 Aug 2008 14:55:38 +0000

The days when students arrived at college accompanied by a single suitcase or footlocker are long past. Today’s necessities for higher learning include a computer, printer, stereo, TV, microwave, mini-frig, DVD player, cell phone, iPod, digital camera, bike, pillow, video games, clothes, shoes, linens, toiletry supplies, towels, musical instruments, not to mention school supplies. Given all that excess baggage, consider yourself lucky if you can cram it all in the family car without having to tow a trailer behind!

Once there, the big question becomes where to put it all and how to organize it. Given that the average dorm room is only around 200 square feet—half of which is occupied by a roommate—every inch of floor space counts. But don’t despair, there are a number of innovative ideas and products that can help keep everything tidy and shipshape.

Doing Your Homework

Before you arrive, check with the school’s housing office or website to see what you’re allowed to bring and what’s considered taboo. Items that may or may not be allowed include microwaves, hot plates, televisions, halogen lamps, candles, and additional furniture.

The school should also give you with a list of rules concerning alterations you can and can’t make to the room—which usually include no nailing, screwing, painting, or any other permanent changes—as well as the standard issue items that will come with it, such as a bed, desk, and/or dresser.

3M Command
Recharging Station

Check to see if the bed is a standard single (39” x 75”) or extra long (39” x 80”), so you’ll know what size sheets to buy. While some dorms come with loft beds that allow space underneath for a desk or dresser, students are usually not allowed to make that kind of modification themselves.

Once you’ve been assigned a roommate, check with them to see if they would like to share larger items, like a microwave or mini-frig, to reduce expenses and avoid unnecessary duplication.

Getting It Together

After you’ve compiled a list of everything you think you’ll need, go over it again and pare it down to the essentials you can’t live without. With list in hand, check newspaper flyers and shop around for back to school bargains. Look for items that:

Bed Bath & Beyond
Bed Lift

Fold for easy storage when not in use, such as a collapsible laundry hamper like one from Caddie Concepts.
Use bed risers (if allowed) from Bed Bath & Beyond to raise your bed and increase the storage space underneath. You can also make your own risers from 2×4s and PVC pipe. Cut 4″ diameter PVC pipe to the length of the bed leg plus the desired riser height. Next, cut a 2×4 to the riser height and slip it inside the piece of pipe. Raising the bed more than 6″-8″ can make it unstable and pose a safety hazard.
An attachable bedside shelf, such as the BunkPal from Bed Bath & Beyond, is handy for keeping an alarm clock and other essential items close at hand.
Make use of wasted space, including shoe or hat racks that hang over the top of a closet door.
Fit under your bed or can be stored under it in pull out drawers.

3M Command
Picture hangers

Once you have everything in hand, pack it in storage containers that can be used in the dorm room, rather than suitcases which will have to be stored or returned home when you arrive. If you’re traveling by air, mail what you can’t carry aboard the plane, or shop for bulky items after you arrive.

Moving In

When the big day arrives, make the most of your limited dorm space:

Take advantage of limited floor space with tall, narrow bookcases and drawer units.
Use removable adhesive wall hangers like 3M Command Strips to hang pictures and other items without damaging the wall. Other Command products include a docking station to charge cell phones and MP3 players.
Attach posters with removable mounting squares or safe release double sided tape.
Double the hanging space in your closet by installing a second clothes rod below the existing one. Units are available that hook over the top rod for instant installation without having to screw into walls.
Use tension rods to hang curtains without damaging walls.

How to Cut and Hang Drywall

Karen Nelsen — Thu, 05 Jun 2008 17:16:00 +0000

While hanging drywall can seem intimidating, with the right tools and techniques, it’s not as difficult as you might imagine. Drywall—also known as wallboard, plasterboard, and by the trade name Sheetrock®—is made from gypsum cement that is covered with paper to give it added strength and a smooth surface.

Drywall comes in thicknesses ranging from ¼” to ¾”, with ½” being the most common. Standard sizes are 4’ x 8’ and 4’x 12’ though 54” widths are available for use on 9’ ceilings. While longer sheets are heavier and hard to deal with, they reduce the number of joints, making finishing easier. Since lifting heavy sheets can be a challenge, consider renting a drywall lift, such as PanelLift, when hanging ceilings.

Apply drywall to the ceiling first then the walls, with long sides at right angles to the framing and the ends centered on studs.

Drywall Tools

Only a few simple tools are needed to cut drywall:

Measuring tape
Utility knife
Straight edge
Drywall saw
Drywall keyhole saw
Drywall rasp or sanding block

Cutting Drywall

Drywall can be cut by either scoring or sawing. Scoring is best for cutting sheets to length or width while sawing is used to cut holes and openings for windows and doors.

Scoring

Scoring is the easiest and least messy method of cutting drywall. Using a straight edge or chalk line as a guide, cut through the paper and into the gypsum on the face side of the sheet with a sharp utility knife.

While supporting the sheet on the back, apply pressure to the face, causing the piece to break cleanly along the joint.

Score the paper on the back with the utility knife to compete the cut.

If needed, use a drywall rasp or sanding block to smooth the cut edge.

Sawing

A drywall saw is used to make cuts for windows and doors while a smaller keyhole saw is perfect for cutting around electrical boxes and other small openings. Make the cuts from the front side when possible to keep from roughing up the paper on the face.

When marking the locations for cuts, follow the old carpenter’s adage of measuring twice and cutting once to avoid making costly mistakes.

Door and Window Cutouts

Since drywall is cut around doors and windows before the casings are attached, a perfect fit isn’t necessary. While professional drywall hangers often use a special high-speed rotary tool to cut around openings with the sheet in place, most do-it-yourself projects will involve measuring and cutting the sheet before it is installed.

Start by measuring horizontally from the corner of the room to the edge of the jamb and transfer the measurement to the drywall. Mark the waste side with an “X” to keep from accidentally cutting the wrong piece. Next, measure vertically down from the ceiling or up from floor and transfer that measurement to the sheet as well.

Mark the drywall on the face with a straightedge and make the shorter of the two cuts with the drywall saw. Next, score the other line and snap off the cut piece.

Electrical Box Cutouts

The holes for electrical boxes need to be a tighter fit than those around windows and doors. The most common method is to measure and mark the location of the cutouts, then draw the outline on the sheet using an extra electrical box as a guide.

Another method is to rub a tube of lipstick around the edge of the box, hold the sheet in place, and press it against the box to transfer the outline to the drywall.

Once the location has been marked, cut around it with a keyhole saw by plunging the sharp point into the sheet. Hold the blade at an angle so the cutout is slightly larger on the back than on the front.

Put the sheet in place and use a utility knife to adjust the fit around the box if needed, keeping the gap 1/8” or less.

Hanging Drywall

Drywall can either be nailed or attached using drywall screws. While nailing is faster, nails tend to work out over time, leaving unsightly bulges in the finished wall. Drywall screws not only stay put, but hold better, so not as many are needed.

Use 1¼” ring shank drywall nails when nailing ½” drywall. A crown-head hammer is used to drive the nails below the surface and denting the drywall without tearing the paper. Position nails ½” from the edge and every 7” for ceilings and 8” for walls.

When attaching drywall with screws, use 1¼” bungle head drywall screws. A drill equipped with an adjustable clutch is used to drive the screws just below the surface without breaking the paper.

Locate screws ½” in from the edges and every 12” for ceilings and 16” for walls. Construction adhesive can be applied to the studs first to give an even stronger bond while reducing the number of screws or nails.

Drywall Tips

Here are a few helpful tips to make your drywall project go more smoothly:

Have a helper on hand to help with the heavy lifting.
Use a pencil for marking, since a pen or marker may bleed through paint.
Keep a sharp blade in the utility knife to cut the paper cleanly.
Have a trash can nearby for scraps.
Take breaks and don’t try to do too much, since most mistakes occur when you’re tired.

Doing a good job hanging the drywall will result in less work finishing and a better looking completed project.

Cutting Drywall Around Outlet Boxes

Venting Dryers in the Attic

Danny Lipford — Fri, 23 May 2008 13:42:44 +0000

My dryer vents into my attic. What can I do to have it vented outside to prevent lint buildup and to make it less of a fire hazard? – Cindy

Hi Cindy,

You’re right to be concerned. In addition to being against most building codes and a potential fire hazard, venting a dryer in an attic can result in moisture problems which could lead to rot or mold in your attic. Check out our video on Dryer Vent Safety for more information.

If your laundry room has access to an outside wall, cut a hole and install a standard dryer vent. Be careful you don’t cut through any studs, electrical wires, or pipes in the process. If venting outside isn’t an option, you can vent the dryer out of the attic through the roof using a special roof vent to keep rain out. When venting dryers for long distances, use rigid metal pipe with as few elbows as possible. Attach the sections together with metallic duct tape—rather than sheet metal screws—to prevent lint buildup around the protruding screw inside the pipe.

Check your dryer manual for the maximum length of pipe and number of bends allowed. It’s a good idea to make the vent pipe easily detachable in the attic to allow you to clean it from time to time. If the vent is longer than recommended, a booster vent fan can be installed in the pipe to increase the distance. To learn more, see our Dryer Vent Extension video.