Danny Lipford » Animals & Wildlife

How to Make a Homemade Birdbath Dripper for Your Yard

Julie Day — Thu, 14 Jan 2010 19:10:27 +0000

Birds love gently moving water.

A dripper is a great addition to the birdbath in your garden. The sound attracts birds, and the moving or rippling water prevents mosquitoes from breeding, making your birdbath the freshest, busiest one in the neighborhood! In addition, on frosty mornings, a dripper will make your birdbath slower to freeze.

You can purchase ready-made birdbath drippers that consist of a clamp-on shepherd’s hook and a length of plastic tubing. The tubing is connected to an outdoor water faucet, and the shepherd’s hook regulates the pressure to a steady drip. However, you can make your own birdbath dripper out of recycled materials that will save on water usage while still providing the birds with the moving water they enjoy.

How to Make a Bird Bath Dripper

This project is satisfying yet so very simple:

Carefully punch two pinholes in a clean, recycled plastic jug (one hole in the bottom for the water to drip, and the other near the top for air flow).
Fill the jug with water.
Hang it over your birdbath and voilà! The bird spa is open!

A few tips to keep in mind when making your dripper:

Make the smallest holes possible. A straight pin or fine-gauge needle is best. I first tried it with a thumbtack and the water flowed out too fast.
Using a pair of pliers, carefully heat the pin over a candle flame, and it will very easily slip through the plastic.
You can hang the jug using twine, wire, ribbon, or anything you have on hand.
Be creative – choose a pretty jug, and paint it (or use a colorful hanger) for a decorative look.

For a less visible dripper, try attaching the jug to the bottom of a cascading hanging plant, where it will be hidden in the foliage.
You’ll need to refill the jug every day or two. Or, to conserve water, you can fill it when the birds in your yard are most active.

How to Keep Koi Fish in a Pond During Freezing Weather

Julie Day — Mon, 11 Jan 2010 23:09:21 +0000

During this latest cold snap, my koi fish pond has threatened to freeze over. What should I do? -Brett

Ice by itself is not dangerous to koi, as long as your pond is deep enough not to freeze completely (3-5 feet or more). The danger to fish comes with the reduced oxygen and increased toxic gases caused by the sealed over water surface.

While you could move your fish and plants to a temporary indoor tank for the winter, or install pond heaters that use a lot of energy, in many cases you can overwinter your fish outdoors with a little care. Keep in mind these tips:

Aeration: Have an aerator running in your pond at all times to keep the water stirred and promote the exchange of gases. An aerator is a lot more economical than a pond heater, and it will oxygenate the water while reducing ice build up.

Ventilation: If you’re aerating the water, all you need is a small hole or two for the bubbles to escape. You don’t need to remove the rest of the ice from the surface.

Balance: Koi (and many other fish) go into a sort of dormancy in the winter, using less oxygen and naturally settling to the bottom of the pond where the water is warmer. Your aerator should gently stir the water without upsetting this natural balance. Go for a steady stream of bubbles, not a rolling “boil” or strong current. If your pond is 4-5 feet or deeper, put the diffuser at the middle of the depth range (not the deepest part) so that the fish can retreat to less-disturbed deeper waters if needed.

Ice: Don’t break the ice in your pond by hitting it, since the force can cause shock waves that may hurt the fish. Keep an eye on your ventilation hole and remove any thin ice before it becomes thick and hard. If necessary, you can sit a full, hot teakettle on top of the ice until it melts a hole. Otherwise, let it snow! The snow, ice, and surrounding earth will help insulate your pond from the frigid air.

De-Icer: If your pond threatens to freeze completely, you may need to install a de-icer to keep at least part of the water above freezing. Your fish will need a few feet of liquid water in the pond throughout the winter.

Further Information

Overwintering Koi Under Thick Ice (pondtrademag.com)
Do I Really Need a Pond De-Icer? (thepondguy.com)
Over-wintering Your Pond and Water Garden (pondsolutions.com)

How to Protect Your Home During Extreme Cold Weather

How to Care for a Birdbath in Winter

Julie Day — Mon, 04 Jan 2010 22:41:06 +0000

A dripper helps, but eventually even that will freeze.

Overwintering birds greatly appreciate a year-round supply of fresh water. But if you live in an area with extended freezing temperatures, you may find that your birdbath or water feature freezes over rather quickly.

Here are some tips for taking care of a birdbath during the winter:

Choose Carefully: Stone, cement, or glass birdbaths are much more susceptible to breakage if the water repeatedly freezes and thaws. Plastic or resin birdbaths are shatterproof and can better withstand the stresses of ice removal and melting. Dark-colored bird baths will stay warmer than light-colored ones.
Use the Sun: Move your birdbath to a sunny spot during the winter to take advantage of the warmth of the sun’s rays. You can also remove your birdbath from its pedestal and place it on a wooden base, or nestle it in an insulating blanket, to help keep it warmer.
Prevent Ice: When temperatures are dipping just below freezing, you can prevent ice formation on your birdbath through the use of a dripper, aerator, or simply floating a plastic ball in the pool. The movement on the surface of the water will prevent thin layers of ice from forming.
Heat the Water: If temperatures drop low enough for long enough, there’s not much you can do to prevent ice unless you heat the water. If you live in an area with cold winters, consider investing in a heated birdbath to keep the water temperature just above freezing. Heated birdbaths and immersion water heaters—such as these from Duncraft—work well, though they can be expensive and require an outdoor electrical outlet. Still, the birds will thank you, and you won’t be spending time and money replacing frozen and broken birdbaths!
Plastic Liner: Line your birdbath with plastic sheeting. That way you can lift the plastic and easily remove the block of ice.
Melt the ice: If the surface of your bird bath has frozen over, you can heat water in a kettle or saucepan, and sit the hot pan on top of the ice until it melts. You can also add just a bit of warm water to keep the temperature above freezing. However, don’t pour boiling water directly on a cold birdbath – it could shatter.

Keep Your Birdbath Safe

Don’t Break the Ice: The force of breaking the ice can also break your birdbath!
Avoid chemicals: Never use antifreeze, salt, or any other additives to the water in your birdbath. Even so-called “nontoxic” chemicals can be deadly to our feathered friends.

Further Information

How to Attract More Birds with Winter Birdbaths (GardenGuides.com)
How to Clean and Maintain a Birdbath (video)

How to Keep Pets Safe at Christmas

Julie Day — Wed, 16 Dec 2009 16:46:38 +0000

This kitty thinks the Christmas tree is all for her!

This is my first Christmas tree in a while – I gave up a few years ago, after my 14-pound cat sent the tree crashing to the floor at two in the morning. My tree is now sprinkled with glued together ornaments from that noisy night, and one ear is always perked for the telltale rustle of catastrophe.

If you have pets, you’ve likely had similar disasters, and perhaps you’ve had to invent some pet-friendly Christmas traditions – like my mother, for instance, who decorates the bottom of her Christmas tree with bells. It’s a tradition left over from our family’s old springer spaniel, Charlie, who thought stealing tree ornaments was the game of the century. The bells didn’t keep him away, but they certainly alerted the humans that mischief was afoot!

But can you really blame our furry friends? All those climbable branches, swattable glittery baubles, and scented chewable branches are just too much to resist! Not to mention the wonderfully crackly ribbons and wrapping paper, just begging to be ripped open before Christmas. It’s a wonder cats and dogs can contain themselves at all!

This was taken the year my cat, Houdini, toppled the tree – I should have known!

Take the “Ir” out of Irresistible

Many an animal lover has given up on Christmas trees until their pets grow out of their curiosity, but there are some things you can try that can discourage your pets, such as:

Scented Repellents: Before decorating your tree, spray it with a scent or flavor that is repellent to pets. Examples include bitter apple, clove oil, citrus oil, and vinegar – experiment to see what your pet hates (just make sure you don’t hate it too!). You can also sprinkle dried orange peels around the base of your tree. Avoid hot pepper – it can get into your pet’s eyes and cause severe pain. You may need to reapply the repellents as they wear off, just don’t spray anything wet onto your lights, or you might have more twinkle than you hoped for!
Paw Repellents: Surround the base of your tree with something your pets don’t like to walk on. Aluminum foil is a classic cat-repellent (they usually hate to walk on crackly things), and you can also purchase spiky mats that are unpleasant to animal paws. This is a good way to recycle those plastic mats that go under office chairs – turn them spiky-side-up and hide them under your tree skirt.
Climb Blockers: Attach dark mesh or plant netting on the underside of your tree to keep your pets from climbing into the branches. You can also use netting to protect wrapped gifts or the tree itself when you’re away. To discourage climbing and scratching, wrap the base of your tree in double sided tape or Sticky Paws.
Training Sessions: With some diligence, you can train your pet to stay away from the tree. For safety’s sake, stay away from squirt guns, but you can try clickers, compressed air, or noisemakers to discourage unwanted behavior.
Go High Tech: If all else fails, try a gadget such as Scccat, a motion-activated repellent that uses compressed air to train your pet to stay away.

Experiment with different repellent flavors and scents.

Tips for a Pet Safe Christmas Tree

Aside from keeping your pets in another room, there is no surefire way to keep them away from Christmas trees. Be sure to keep your pets as safe as possible by following these tips:

Tuck lights and cords deep within the tree – make sure there are no electrical wires dangling temptingly from the branches. Also tape down any cords running across the floor.
Use the bottom third of your tree for sturdy, shatterproof ornaments (and bells!) that won’t hurt your pet if they do pull them off.
Don’t use additives in your tree water. You don’t need them anyway, and your pets may drink the water.
Use fishing line to tie your tree to the wall so that it won’t topple over.
Make the tree inaccessible to pets when you’re not home to supervise. Close doors or use door gates to keep them away from danger. It’s up to you to intervene if your pet gets curious!

Keep pets from eating decorations, even if they’re considered nonpoisonous.

Keep these decorations away from pets:

Tinsel, Angel Hair, and Ribbon: These items can pose choking and strangling hazards for your pets.
Plants and Floral Arrangements: Poinsettias, hollies, and mistletoe can cause gastrointestinal upset and illness. Lilies can be deadly if eaten. Even so-called “nontoxic” plants can upset your pet’s tummy, and floral arrangements may be sprayed with preservatives.
Potpourri, Scented Oils, and Candles: can be harmful if ingested and dangerous if spilled.
Candy and Human Treats: Common ingredients such as chocolate, raisins, alcohol, and xylitol can be toxic to dogs and cats, not to mention the hazards of candy wrappers!
Snow Globes: Imported snow globes may contain highly poisonous antifreeze (ethylene glycol).
Bubble Lights: Contain methylene chloride, which can be harmful if swallowed or spilled on skin.

Invite Your Pet to the Party!

As the festivities kick into high gear, don’t forget to include your pet in the fun:

Dogs love to unwrap their very own gifts, and cats will play for hours in piles of tissue and gift paper.
Be sure to have plenty of pet toys on hand to encourage your pet to play appropriately.
Take your dog for long walks, to help dispel extra energy.
Reward your pet with healthy dog/cat treats rather than “people food.”
Also, make sure they have a familiar crate or bed nearby so that they have a place to calm down when they need to.

A little preparation on your part will ensure that your pet enjoys the party without crashing it!

Further Information

Holiday Toxin Tips (Pet Poison Helpline)
Pet Poison Safety Tips for the Holiday Season (ASPCA)
Winter Holiday Safety & Poison Prevention Tips (Cal. Poison Action Line)

Plants in Your Garden that Produce Seed for Birds

Julie Day — Thu, 12 Nov 2009 23:03:35 +0000

Black-Eyed Susan seed heads are gorgeous and bird-friendly.

As you clean up your garden this fall, don’t forget the birds! Leave some seed heads to dry on your perennial flowers, to provide winter food for finches, cardinals, and other year-round birds. Not only will you be providing much-needed nourishment and shelter for birds, but your winter garden will be graced with the striking shapes of dried stems adorned with colorful plumage.

You can also harvest the seeds for later spreading or using in feeders. If you’re adventurous, try scattering and watering a handful of birdseed mix, and see what sprouts!

The most popular flowering plants for feeding birds are:

Most native plants
Black-Eyed Susans and other plants with daisy-like blooms
Coneflowers
Ornamental grasses (all varieties)
Safflowers
Sunflowers
Zinnias

Birds are also attracted to:

Pink Muhly Grass is good for birds.

Asters
Bergamot
Calendula
Columbine
Coreopsis
Corn
Cosmos
Dill
Evening Primrose
Goldenrod
Lavender
Millet
Poppies
Rose of Sharon (Althea)
Salvia
St. John’s Wort
Teasel
Thistles

Further Information

How to Landscape Your Yard with Deer-Resistant Plants

Julie Day — Fri, 06 Nov 2009 23:14:16 +0000

Barberry is a popular deer-resistant shrub.

If you live in an area with foraging deer, you’ve likely watched with dismay as some of your favorite plants disappeared overnight. But before you give up on gardening altogether, try making your yard less appealing to deer by choosing plants that deer find less appealing.

The Deer-Proof Garden

It’s important to remember that unless you build a very tall fence, there is no such thing as a deer-proof garden. Deer will eat anything if they are hungry enough, and they can adapt and eat plants that are considered “resistant.” However, they do have their favorites, and they’re more attracted to places where their favorite food is easily available.

The idea behind deer-resistant gardening is to fill your yard with plants they don’t prefer, in hopes the deer will simply give up and go someplace more appetizing.

Add herbs, such as lavender, to discourage deer.

In general, deer prefer:

Plants with lush foliage and high water content, such as hostas
Early spring plants like tulips, crocuses, and forsythia
Fruiting and berry-producing plants, including vegetable gardens
Native plants

Deer are less likely to be attracted to:

Herbs and strongly flavored plants
Heavily scented foliage
Plants with fuzzy or hairy leaves
Prickly plants
Ferns
Grasses

If you’re planting a new border or garden, start with heavily scented and deer-resistant plants on the outside perimeter. Once you’ve established an area and encouraged the deer to browse elsewhere, you can add other plants inside the perimeter.

List of Deer-Resistant Plants

Always check with local gardeners and your cooperative extension service to find out what has (and hasn’t) worked for gardeners in your area. The following is a list of plants that research has indicated are less appealing to deer:

Rosemary is an evergreen herb that works well in flower gardens, too.

Herbs and Scented Plants

Most herbs are great choices for deer-resistant gardens, such as:

Chives, ornamental (Allium sp.)
Garlic, ornamental (Allium sp.)
Ginger (Asarum sp.)
Lavender (Lavandula sp.)
Onion, ornamental (Allium sp.)
Mint (Mentha sp.)
Rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis)
Sage, ornamental and culinary (Salvia sp.)
Thyme (Thymus sp.)

Deer generally leave ornamental grasses alone.

Ornamental Grasses

Most ornamental grasses are deer-resistant, including:

Fescue (Festuca sp.)
Flame grass (Miscanthus sp.)
Fountain Grass (Pennisetum sp.)
Giant Reed (Arundo donax)
Pampas grass (Cortaderia selloana)
Purple Moor grass (Molinia caerulea)
Sedge (Carex sp.)
Silver grass (Miscanthus sp.)
Zebra grass (Miscanthus sp.)

Most species of ferns are also considered deer-resistant.

Ferns

Most species of ferns, including:

Christmas fern (Polystichum arcostichoides)
Hayscented fern (Dennstaedtia punctilobula)
Holly fern (Cyrtomium falcatum)
New York fern (Thelyptens noveboracensis)
Ostrich fern (Matteuccia struthiopteris)
Osmanthus (Osmanthus sp.)
Sensitive fern (Onoclea sensibilis)
Wood fern (Dryopteris marginalis)

Annual vinca is less appealing, although annuals are often devoured.

Annuals

Ageratum (Ageratum sp.)
Annual Vinca (Catharanthus roseus)
Dusty Miller (Centaurea cineraria)
Flowering Tobacco (Nicotiana sp.)
Poppy (Papaver sp.)
Snapdragon (Antirrhinum majus)
Strawflower (Helichrysum)

Lamb’s ear has fuzzy leaves that discourage deer.

Perennials and Groundcovers

Anise Hyssop (Agastache foeniculum)
Artemisia (Artemesia sp.)
Bleeding Heart (Dicentra sp.)
Bugleweed (Ajuga reptans)
Catmint (Nepeta sp.)
Coneflower (Echinacea sp. & Rudbeckia sp.)
Coreopsis (Coreopsis sp.)
Daffodil (Narcissus sp.)
Epimedium (Epimedium sp.)
Forget-Me-Not (Myosotis sp.)
Foxglove (Digitalis purpurea)
Germander (Teucrium chamaedrys)
Iris (Iris sp.)
Lamb’s Ear (Stachys byzantina)
Lenten rose (Helleborus sp.)
Ligularia (Ligularia sp.)
Lungwort (Pulmonaria sp.)
Monkshood (Aconitum sp.)
Pachysandra (Pachysandra sp.)
Potentilla, Cinquefoil (Potentilla sp.)
Rock-Cress (Arabis caucasica)
Rose Campion (Lychnis coronaria)
Russian sage (Perovskia sp.)
Spurge (Euphorbia sp.)
Spotted Deadnettle (Lamium sp.)
Tarragon (Artemesia sp.)
Thistle (Echinops sp.)
Yarrow (Achillea sp.)
Yucca (Yucca sp.)

Creeping juniper is a popular groundcover shrub.

Shrubs and Trees

Barberry (Berberis sp.)
Birch (Betula sp.)
Blue mist shrub (Caryopteris clandonensis)
Boxwood (Buxus sp.)
Butterfly bush (Buddleia sp.)
Elderberry (Sambucus sp.)
Holly (Ilex sp.)
Juniper (Juniperus sp.)
Lilac (Syringa sp.)
Mahonia (Mahonia sp.)
Maple (Acer sp.)
Peashrub (Caragana sp.)
Russian Olive (Elaeagnus angustifolia)
Spruces (Picea sp.)
Sumac (Rhus sp.)

Further Information

Camouflage Gardening (Native Plant Society of Texas)
Deer-Resistant Plants (Deer-Resistant Landscape Nursery)
Landscape Plants Rated by Deer Resistance (Rutgers)

How To Use Deer Repellents to Prevent Damage to Your Yard or Garden

Julie Day — Fri, 09 Oct 2009 18:33:43 +0000

It’s a magical feeling to encounter a graceful deer, peacefully browsing in the early dawn . . . unless your beloved hostas are what’s for breakfast! Whether you live in the country or the city, foraging deer can cause significant damage to landscapes and vegetable gardens. Unfortunately, “deer-proofing” is virtually impossible, but there are steps you can take to discourage deer and minimize the damage.

Deer Repellents

Deer are prey animals by nature, and deer repellents take advantage of that by producing unpleasant or startling scents, sounds, sights, or flavors. Because they’re always on the lookout for predators, deer are very alert and easily startled, and they’ll run away (or avoid an area) when faced with a threat or questionable situation.

Tender plants such as hostas are irresistible to deer.

Repellents are temporary solutions – in time, deer will get used to any repellent, so you’ll need to change things up in order to keep it working. Ideas for DIY deer repellents and deterrents include:

Scent Repellents

Scented soap: One of the easiest and most popular methods. Shave a few bars of strongly-scented soap (such Irish Spring or Cashmere Bouquet) and scatter the shavings around the garden. This is a great use for travel soap samples!

Scented soap as repellent.

Human hair: Available from barber shops, human hair can be sprinkled around or hung from branches in cheesecloth bags or nylon stockings.
Predator urine: You can order predator urine sprays (such as fox or coyote), and some gardeners send meat-eating humans outdoors to “mark the territory,” too.
Eggs: Mix a beaten egg into a quart of water and spray plants and surrounding areas.
Baby powder: Sprinkle on or around plants.
Scented fabric softener sheets: Cut into strips and tie to branches or fence posts.
Blood meal: Sprinkle around plants or beds.
Hot pepper powder or sauce: Spray or sprinkle directly on or around plants. Some gardeners add garlic or curry powder, too.
Milorganite: This commercial fertilizer is made from treated sewage sludge, giving it an odor unpleasant to deer. It can be hung in net bags around the garden.
Commercial repellent sprays or granules: Available at garden centers, commercial repellents often contain a combination of unpleasant smells and flavors.

Visual and Noise Deterrents

Bamboo fountains: Originally designed as “deer chasers” for Japanese gardens, bamboo fountains make a knocking sound when the water dumps out, which serves as a great auditory deterrent.
Metal cans or pie pans: Hang in groups where they will reflect light and rattle in a breeze.

Japanese “Deer Chaser.”

Tin foil or Mylar: Can be hung in strips to sparkle and reflect light. Mylar strips can also be strung from two posts or branches, where they will make a buzzing sound when caught by the wind.
Dogs: Dogs are great garden protectors if you can keep them safely contained (and if they don’t add to the problem by digging up your garden!).
Trail blocks: Once you’ve located common deer trails, even a wheelbarrow blocking the path can deter them for a day or two. Deer are habitual animals, and they’ll steer clear of an obstacle until they’re sure it’s safe.
Plant netting: Green bird or plant netting can be used to protect shrubs and trees and can be used as row covers for veggie gardens. Drape it directly over the plants or on a simple wood or PVC frame.

Commercial Deterrents

If you live in a rural area or have a large farm or orchard to protect, you may want to step things up a notch. Commercial deer repellents include:

Explosive devices (producing a gunshot-like sound)
Ultrasonic devices
Motion-controlled strobe lights and whistles

These aren’t recommended for home gardens because they’re expensive and can disturb neighbors.

Deer repellents often work on other prey animals like rabbits.

Tips for Using Deer Repellents

Which deer repellent works the best? The answer is probably “none of them,” (or “all of them,” depending on your perspective). Any of these methods can work temporarily, but you’ll need to change them up often in order for them to keep working.

Scented or flavored repellents should be reapplied every few days, especially after a hard rain.
Visual repellents should be moved around and changed frequently.
Keep experimenting! Some gardeners swear by a favorite method, and others try it to no effect. Find what works in your garden, and be adaptable.
Deer repellents work best in relatively small home landscapes when deer populations and damage are in the low to moderate range.
If the deer in your area are gutsy or hungry enough, or if deer populations are large, they’ll overcome their fears and eat almost anything. In that case, you may need to consider fencing (at least 8′ tall) to protect your garden.

Further Information

Deer Repellent Study (a great review of commercial and homemade deer repellents by the Illinois Walnut Council)
Deer Off (Havahart)
Liquid Fence Deer and Rabbit Repellent (Liquid Fence Company)
Plantskydd Deer Repellent (Tree World)
PredatorPee (sells urine from a variety of predatory animals)
Home Garden Use of Milorganite® (Cornell Waste Management Institute)
Milorganite® Lawn and Garden Products

Autumn Spider Webs

Julie Day — Thu, 01 Oct 2009 19:31:30 +0000

Every night for the past two weeks, a large orb-weaver has spun an enormous web stretching from my house all the way over to the property line. I like to think of it as a banner advertising the arrival of autumn, but I usually think of that only after I’ve crashed through it for the umpteenth time.

I get some task on my mind and go charging around to the basement, and next thing you know I’m batting spider silk out of my eyes and grumbling about why the spider can’t learn to be more considerate. Which is really pretty ridiculous, considering my so-called superior intellect can’t seem to learn to look out for spider webs that show up in the same place, at the same time, every single day.

Fall is the active season for some of the larger species of garden spiders, which is why we see larger, more elaborate webs this time of year. Spiders are beneficial garden predators, helping keep insect infestations under control. Contrary to popular myths, most garden spiders are completely harmless and aren’t the least bit interested in humans, and if you can get over your Hollywood-inspired arachnophobia, many of them are quite beautiful.

This fall, make peace with the spiders in your yard. Sit outside one evening and watch an orb-weaver spin an architectural masterpiece. Stare down a funnel-weaver and see if you can watch it disappear (bet you can’t, they’re too fast). Look for the sparkling gossamer silk of baby spiders traveling on an autumn breeze. And if you must disturb a spider web, gently relocate the spider to a spot you can share and settle into a peaceful coexistence.

Further Information

Spider Myths (Burke Museum of Natural History)
Spider Silk (BackyardNature.net)

View from the Time-Out Chair

Julie Day — Wed, 19 Aug 2009 21:52:49 +0000

This summer has been an unusual one for me. Normally, my natural states of being include “working,” “sleeping,” and “sometimes some other stuff.” This summer, however, I’ve got a cast on my foot, which means I’m spending a good deal of time in a chair on the porch with nothing to do but redefine myself. I’ve been forced to change the pace, and it’s giving me some wonderful insights about my own little patch of earth.

For instance, I had no idea just how many animals live in my yard – birds, squirrels, chipmunks, groundhogs, ‘possums, buzzing bees and butterflies. Once I stopped my constant mowing, chopping, clipping, hauling, and digging, they immediately brought their daily party out into the open. I was also surprised to learn that my cat is a long-standing, peaceable member of the club – turns out I was the only one not invited.

Okay, so the animals like it better when I work less in the garden, but what about the plants? Well, the new shrubs are settled in and growing like crazy, the flowers are blooming like gangbusters, the lawn is full and green, the trees are happy . . . frankly, the whole place seems relieved that the micromanager has finally taken a breather!

And, I must admit, the micromanager herself has enjoyed learning to sit back and relax. I can’t get enough of garden-watching this summer – in other parts of life, I’m about one thistle-seed’s breadth away from going stark raving mad, but in my chair, on the porch, I’m having the best summer ever.

Landscaping Tips for a Bird-Friendly Yard

Julie Day — Fri, 14 Aug 2009 16:51:16 +0000

A bird-friendly yard includes food, water, and sheltering shrubs.

Attracting wild birds to your yard is easy – they have pretty specific needs and patterns, and they’re not picky about the solutions. That means that if we bird-lovers provide them with ways to meet their needs, they’ll come, it’s as simple as that.

While you don’t even NEED a yard to enjoy attracting birds to a feeder, a few simple ideas incorporated into your lawn and garden design will increase your bird populations and give you even more enjoyment.

Here are some landscaping tips that can turn your yard into a haven for wild birds.

Think variety – birds are attracted to an atmosphere of abundance.

The Basics

When adding elements to your garden for the birds, keep in mind that the three basic needs of birds aren’t all that different from our own.

Food
Water
Shelter

Providing for all three needs will attract bird populations that stick around, nest, raise their young, and come back next year.

Birds enjoy the seeds produced by Black-Eyed Susans.

1. Basic Need: Food

Wild birds eat a wide variety of plant and animal matter, including seeds, nuts, berries, insects, worms, and grubs. While some birds really seem to enjoy bird feeders, others prefer to get all or part of their food from natural sources. Here are some tips for providing food for birds:

Bird Feeders: Install a variety of bird feeders, including seed, nut, suet, and nectar feeders. Check out our articles on Wild Bird Feeding Basics and How to Make a Suet Bird Feeder for more information.
Flowers: Planting annual, perennial, and flowering shrubs and trees can provide food for birds. Look for a variety of colors, textures, and bloom times. Birds will be attracted to seeds, nectar, and the insects buzzing around your blossoms. Leave some flowers to set seeds and fruits.
Berries: Birds love berries, so adding plants and shrubs with berries can really help. Choose varieties with different fruiting seasons for year-round bird feeding.
Go Organic: Don’t use insecticides and herbicides on your lawn or garden. Not only can birds be harmed by ingesting the chemicals, but they’ll reduce their natural insect prey, causing birds to hunt elsewhere.

Consider a birdbath to provide clean, safe water for the birds.

2. Basic Need: Water

Birds need a source of shallow water for drinking and bathing. Some tips:

Birdbaths: Birds will use any source of standing or lightly trickling water, but most gardeners prefer to offer a birdbath that can be kept clean and free of mosquito larvae and bacteria.
Water Features: Small streams and fountains are also great ways to offer water for birds.
Design: The best water sources have a graduated “beach-like” entry, a nonslick surface, and are less than 3” deep. Add smooth gravel to the bottom for perching and balancing.
Location: Wet birds aren’t as agile, so place your water feature near some trees and shrubs as a handy place to escape predators and dry off.

Hollies provide both shelter and food for winter birds.

3. Basic Need: Shelter

Birds need places to rest, escape predators, and build their nests. A garden with plenty of shelter is sure to have lots of birds. Tips include:

Variety: The best bird shelter includes a variety of trees and shrubs with varying textures and heights.
Borders: Mixed shrub borders are perfect, because you can include a wide variety of plants that offer food, shelter, and nesting spots; and they’re usually far enough away from the house that the birds feel safe.
Hedges: Birds love the deep shelter provided by hedges.
Safety: Consider some prickly or thorny shrubs to provide added security from predators.
Evergreens: Conifers and evergreens are great shelter choices because they stay green year-round. Many varieties also produce berries or nuts, which provide an additional food element.
Birdhouses: Artificial shelter can be provided in the form of nesting boxes, such as bluebird houses. Choose nesting boxes specific to the birds in your garden, as many birds will not use a basic bird house.
Nesting Materials: Don’t put out string, lint, or other nesting material that could be dangerous for some birds. Instead, include a variety of plants with different textures in your landscape so birds can choose what they want.

Birds appreciate a natural garden that isn’t overly manicured.

Landscape Design Tips

Use Borders: Birds like landscapes that have “edges,” with groupings of sheltering plants and trees connected by open corridors. Plant larger trees and shrubs in clusters, with multilayered planting beds around the borders. Tuck flowering plants, bird feeders, and birdbaths in these sheltered borders.
Go Native: When possible, choose native plants. Native plants attract the right insects and provide food and shelter at the right times to keep your little ecosystem balanced and full of happy birds.
Think Variety: Plant using different heights, colors, and textures. While some birds are attracted to specific plants, in general they’re looking for a nice place to call home with plenty of food and nesting opportunities.
Limit Pruning: Spring and summer are nesting seasons, so hold off on any heavy pruning until your birds have had a chance to raise their young safely.
Go Wild: Allow some areas of your garden to “go natural.” Brush piles, leaf litter, and fallen trees are gold mines for insect-eating birds, and they also provide great hiding places. Don’t deadhead every blossom and leave some fallen leaves in the beds. Find a balance between over manicured and a bit wild, so you and the birds will both be happy.

Further Information

Landscaping for Birds (Cornell Lab of Ornithology)
Hummingbirds in the Garden
Birdbaths (Video)
Wild Bird Feeding Basics
How to Make a Suet Bird Feeder
All About Birds (Cornell Bird Identification Guide)