Danny Lipford » Fruits & Vegetables

How to Grow Garlic in Your Garden

Julie Day — Wed, 12 Nov 2008 22:35:07 +0000

Roasted garlic, pesto sauce, buttery garlic bread - there’s nothing like the aroma of fresh garlic in the kitchen. And if you like garlic, you’ll love home-grown garlic even more. Garlic is a low-maintenance plant that can be grown in a traditional vegetable garden or tucked into flower and herb beds. Fall is a great time to plant garlic, so check out these tips for planting and growing this aromatic bulb.

About Garlic

Garlic has been cultivated for thousands of years, and is prized for its medicinal qualities and culinary uses. A cousin of onions, garlic (Allium sativum var.) is a true bulb that can be grown all over the U.S. There are many varieties of garlic available, including:

Softneck or “Common” varieties: These are the familiar white cloves most commonly grown for mass production. Softneck varieties do not produce a flower stalk – instead, all their energy goes toward growing a large bulb. They tend to do better in warmer climates, although there are some cold-tolerant varieties, and they store well. The main types are Artichoke and Silverskin.
Hardneck varieties: Considered the closest cousin to wild garlic, hardneck varieties produce a flower stalk and propagate very quickly, resulting in a greater number of smaller bulbs. They can be difficult to store but are often better suited to cold climates. Examples include Purple Stripe, Porcelain, and Rocambole.

Garlic cultivation is not standardized, and some varieties will behave differently, and even have different flavors, depending on the climate. The best way to choose a variety is to plant several and see how they do, or seek advice from a local grower.

To learn more about varieties of garlic, check out Gourmet Garlic Gardens’ Garlic Overview.

When to Plant Garlic

The ideal time to plant garlic is in the fall, so it can receive the cold necessary for its growth cycle. It will send up leaves in the spring, then focus on bulb development before being harvested in mid to late summer. Plant garlic about a week or two after the first killing frost so the roots will develop before winter, but the soil is cool enough to prevent the green sprouts from breaking the surface until spring.

Though it will vary by climate, the traditional garlic grower’s calendar is:

Plant on Columbus Day (middle of October)
Cut off flowers on Memorial Day (end of May)
Harvest on Independence Day (early in July)

For year-round supply, you can also plant in the spring and harvest in the fall, but the bulbs will likely not be as large or well-developed.

How to Plant Garlic

Step 1: Garlic is most easily grown from cloves, rather than seed. Buy garlic bulbs from a commercial supplier or local farmer’s market. Don’t use garlic from the grocery store as they are often treated to prevent sprouting.

Step 2: Break each head of garlic into separate cloves. Use the larger ones for planting and the smaller ones for eating.

Step 3: Prepare the space you plan to plant garlic where it will receive full sun. It’s also important to have well-draining, nutrient-rich soil. A commercial soil conditioner will help both with drainage and supply needed organic matter. For best results, the soil pH should be between six and seven.

Step 4: Plant each clove about two inches deep, making sure that the pointed end is facing up, and at least six to eight inches apart.

Step 5: Cover the cloves with soil followed by 2”- 4” of mulch to prevent extremes or rapid changes in temperature and moisture.

Step 6: Hang in there - you should see aboveground sprouts by around March or April. The leaves of garlic are long and strappy, and while they aren’t extremely showy, they blend nicely in a flower or herb garden.

Taking Care of Garlic Plants

Here are some tips for taking care of growing bulbs and spring sprouts:

Weed: Keep the area weeded since garlic doesn’t do well with competition.
Water: Keep watered modestly until the last few weeks before harvest, particularly between May and July when the bulb is growing rapidly.
Flowers: Remove garlic flowers if you want large bulbs. The flowers bloom atop a long stalk, or “scape.” Most gardeners cut it off when the flower scape starts to curl. There is some evidence that bulbs store better if you wait until the flower scape is woody in texture. If you’re growing garlic to propagate instead of eat, you can leave the flower stalk in place and the plant will produce many small bulbils that you can then save for planting next fall.

Harvesting

Harvest between June and August, depending on your climate, and stop watering about two weeks before harvest. When to stop watering and harvest, is a skill that grows with practice and experience.

Step 1: As the bulb matures, the leaves will begin to turn brown. When about half of the leaves are brown, carefully scrape back the soil to inspect a clove or two – you want good-sized bulbs with strong wrappers. You can also cut one open to see if the bulbs fill out the skins nicely. If your bulbs are starting to split open, you’re almost too late and should harvest immediately.

Step 2: Carefully loosen the soil around the garlic bulbs, and lift them out by hand, gently brushing off the soil. Be careful not to break the skins or bruise the bulbs. Leave the roots and shoots attached.

Step 3: Tie in bundles of 10-15 bulbs, and hang them in a well-ventilated, shady room for several weeks to dry.

Step 4: After they’ve dried, you can remove the outermost layer of skin if you want them cleaner, but don’t uncover the cloves.

Step 5: Cut off the tops about 1” above the main bulb, and trim off the roots.

Storing Garlic

Garlic is best stored in the refrigerator or a cool, dry place between 32º and 50º F. While it can be stored at room temperature, it will dry out faster. Stored garlic should last between 4 and 7 months.

More information

Tomatoes

Danny Lipford — Tue, 06 Feb 2007 15:50:02 +0000

Tomatoes are one the most popular fruits grown by homeowners, but many of us aren’t really sure what the best method is to insure we have healthy plants and good fruit. First, protect the plants from cutworms. These creatures gnaw at the base of the stem, so wrap a two-inch wide strip of aluminum foil around the stem before you plant and let it extend an inch or so into the soil. If you fertilize, choose one that has higher second and third number. Chemical fertilizers have a three number code that describes the percentages of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium in them. The two latter elements control fruit production, disease resistance, stem strength, color and taste. Finally, water consistently. Inconsistent watering may cause the fruit to crack or split.

Fruit Tree Production

Danny Lipford — Fri, 12 Jan 2007 01:13:56 +0000

Strange as it may seem, shaking your fruit trees will help them produce more fruit. This is because it loosens the vessels that carry sap to the leaves and buds. Some people even opt to “whip” their fruit trees with a rolled up newspaper. Don’t worry, this really does hurt you more than it does them. Keep in mind that many fruit trees will take years to bear fruit.

Raised Vegetable Bed

Danny Lipford — Sun, 07 Jan 2007 15:55:05 +0000

Raised vegetable beds are an excellent way to manage your produce patch, especially if your home is on a hilly lot. Here are a few tips if you’re considering building one.

If you use wood timbers to construct your raised bed, interlock them at the corners by overlapping the timbers (log cabin style). This creates a sturdy structure to contain your soil. For a vegetable garden, don’t use timbers treated with creosote.
Build the bed(s) long and narrow so that the middle can easily be reached from either side. This way you don’t have to actually climb into the bed for weeding or harvesting.
If animals are a concern in your area, surround the bed with a wire or fabric fence to keep the critters from feasting on your produce. To stop burrowing animals lay chick wire in the bottom of the box before adding soil and amendments.
The bed begins with rich soil so be sure to include plenty of organic matter in the mix you add to the bed once your box is constructed.

Raised Bed Gardening

Natural Remedies

Danny Lipford — Sat, 23 Sep 2006 15:34:48 +0000

If you look hard enough you can find solutions to many of your lawn and garden problems “naturally.” The pungent aroma of many herbs acts as a natural insect repellent. Planting herbs like parsley or basil among your vegetables will offer them some protection from bugs and simplify harvesting a salad. Marigolds, another pungent smelling plant, can help keep mosquitoes at bay if positioned around the perimeter of a deck or patio. If larger pests, like dogs, cats and squirrels are digging in your garden, try sprinkling a little cayenne pepper around on the ground to discourage them from future visits.

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Feed Flowers Fruit

Danny Lipford — Tue, 12 Sep 2006 01:19:30 +0000

Roses love banana peels. They rot quickly, releasing minerals roses need such as calcium, sulfur, magnesium, and phosphates. Just cut them up and mix them in the soil at planting time or anytime you want to give your roses a boost. You can also make a banana peel tonic for use after the plants are established. Just soak chopped pieces in a closed jar of water for two weeks. Pour the remaining mush under the rose bush.

Strawberry Plant Irrigation

Danny Lipford — Wed, 02 Aug 2006 20:02:02 +0000

Strawberry pots may be attractive, but they’re inefficient for the growth and health of the plants. To make sure the plant is properly watered, take a section of PVC pipe and put it in the center of the planter. Add compost all around the pipe, tapping it in and holding the pipe straight. After it’s set, add some relatively coarse small stones and then carefully pull out the pipe. This creates a central core that will allow the water to penetrate throughout the pot.

Tomato Wagon

Danny Lipford — Wed, 15 Mar 2006 17:56:31 +0000

A child’s wagon makes an easy-to move base for off-season tomatoes. Two tomato plants in separate 10-gallon containers can easily fit in such a wagon. Let the plants grow outdoors as long as the warm weather lasts; as temperatures begin to fall, wheel the plants indoors overnight and back outdoors during the day. It doesn’t take long and you could harvest fresh tomatoes until Christmas. Remember to stake the plants well and make sure that the plants can fit through the door. Also keep on eye on them so that they don’t become root bound in their containers.

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