One of the best ways to landscape a yard quickly is by planting balled and burlapped (B&B) trees and shrubs. Balled and burlapped plants are usually larger than container-grown plants and can give an instant finished appearance. Other than their size and weight, they’re easy to plant, here’s how.

Balled and burlapped plants are actually transplants.

Balled and burlapped trees and shrubs are grown in the ground while container-grown plants are grown in pots. When large enough, field-grown plants are carefully dug up and the root balls wrapped in burlap to hold the roots and soil together. The burlap may be natural (which biodegrades after planting) or synthetic (which doesn’t). While balled and burlapped may be stored for short periods of time at the garden center, they should be planted as soon as possible.

Select Plant

When choosing a tree or shrub, examine it to make sure the branches look healthy and the trunk is strong. Don’t buy a plant with damaged bark, scratches from too-tight twine, or spots that look rotten or diseased. As much as you can, pull back the burlap to make sure the roots are healthy and white and not girdling (growing in a tight circle).

Planting depth is one of the most important factors.

Preparation

Early spring is the ideal time to plant balled and burlapped trees and shrubs, with fall a close runner-up. In general, you can plant anytime the soil isn’t frozen, though some trees (such as oak, magnolia, dogwood, Bradford pear, willow, and cherry) are slower to establish roots and do better when planted in spring.

Choose shrubs and trees that are compatible with your growing conditions. Native trees and shrubs will establish much faster and will need less soil amendments. Before planting, conduct a soil test to see if amendments are needed, and check your planting site for water drainage. Remember that roots will extend far beyond your planting hole, so don’t rely too heavily on amendments to correct soil problems.

Tools and Materials

Tools and materials need include:

• Shovel and mattock or pick-axe
• Work gloves
• Tarp or wheelbarrow
• Scissors or utility knife
• Bolt or wire cutters
• Pruning shears
• Hose or watering can
• Soil amendments
• Mulch
• Tree or shurb
• Tree guard (optional)

Step 1: Dig Hole

Using the shovel and/or mattock, carefully dig a hole that is exactly as deep as the root ball and up to 2-3 times as wide, with roughened sides. The wider the hole, the better, but don’t make it deeper than the root ball. You want the roots to sit on undisturbed soil, so the plant won’t sink later. Put the excess dirt on your tarp, wheelbarrow, or in a container, and stir in any soil amendments that are needed.

Planting hole should be wide and shallow.

Step 2: Position Plant

Lift your tree or shrub by the root ball (never the trunk), and carefully place it in the planting hole. Make sure the root ball is exactly level with the soil surface, never deeper. Untie any twine holding the branches, and turn the plant so that it’s plumb and in a pleasing position.

Step 3: Partial Backfill

Backfill the hole with soil about 1/3 of the way, just enough to hold the plant in place. Firm the soil and add water to settle this first layer.

Make sure tree or shrub is plumb and balanced before filling hole.

Step 4: Remove Wrappings

Once the plant is firmly supported, begin removing the twine, wire cage, and burlap. Some gardeners prefer to leave as much burlap in place as possible (arguing that it will decompose over time), but it’s better to remove as much as you can. If the burlap is synthetic, remove it all.

Using the scissors, knife, and wire cutters, carefully cut away and gently work loose the wrappings and ties. Inspect the root ball carefully, and loosen any tightly wrapped or circling roots so they’re positioned to grow outward and down.

Balled and burlapped trees and shrubs are often grown in clay soil to help hold the roots together. You may want to use your hands to gently remove some of this soil to reduce any problems caused by the difference in soil texture at your planting site.

Step 5: Finish Backfill

Continue adding soil to the hole, gently firming it without heavy pack. Make sure the root ball stays level with the surface of the soil, and don’t heap soil over the top. Use the extra soil to create a small berm around the outside edge of the planting hole to help retain water.

A berm around the hole helps direct water to the roots.

Step 6: Water

Water your new tree or shrub thoroughly, filling the reservoir you’ve created and allowing the water to soak in slowly. After the water has been absorbed, add soil to any sunken spots. Water your new tree or shrub regularly for the first year. Once you see new leaf and stem growth, you can add some balanced fertilizer to the waterings.

Step 7: Mulch

Add 3”- 4” of mulch to help insulate the roots and hold in moisture. Don’t pile mulch up against the trunk – the crown of the plant should not be smothered or buried any deeper than it was already growing.

Step 8: Inspect and Support

Prune away any dead or diseased branches. Remove any remaining tags and twine. Firmly tie or stake your tree if needed.

Step 9: Add Tree Guard

If desired, add a tree guard to protect the trunk from critter and sun damage.

Tree guards often come as a soft wrapping.

Further Information

• How to Plant a Tree (Casey Trees, PDF 3mb)
• How to Plant a Balled and Burlapped Tree (Fine Gardening, video)
• Planting and Transplanting Landscape Trees and Shrubs (Purdue)
• How to Plant Container Grown Trees and Shrubs (article)
• How to Choose a Tree for Your Yard (video)
• How to Plant a Bare Root Tree (video)

Related posts:

• How To Plant Container Grown Trees and Shrubs
• Can I Plant Trees and Shrubs in Late Fall or Winter?
• Selecting and Caring for a Live Christmas Tree

Fall gardening chores tend to have a “bedtime” theme – before your plants begin their long winter’s nap, they need to be tended and tucked cozily into their beds. Fall gardening is also an exercise in delayed gratification – new plants will barely put down roots before going dormant, cleaned and amended beds won’t show their gratitude until spring, and bulbs disappear underground, making you wonder if they’ll ever reappear. Don’t despair – instead, use this season to clean up, organize, and take stock of your lawn and garden.

In November, most of the country experiences the first frost or freeze, and with it, the onset of winter dormancy. You can continue many of the gardening chores of September and October as long as your soil isn’t frozen.

Here are some additional lawn and garden chores to consider for November:

Shrubs and Trees

• After the leaves have fallen, you can once again start pruning deciduous trees and shrubs. If your area normally has a warm spell or “Indian Summer,” hold off until you’re sure the plants are dormant so they won’t put out new growth.
• Be on the lookout for berry-covered branches for use in indoor decorations.
• Continue planting container-grown ornamental trees and shrubs until the ground freezes.
• Water evergreens until freezing weather, but make sure they don’t get waterlogged.
• Start shopping for a live Christmas tree. If you’re planning to plant it after the holidays, save yourself some work by digging the hole now while the soil is workable, and cover the soil with burlap.
• In zones 8 and warmer, plant bare-root roses, trees, and shrubs, as well as perennials, ornamental grasses, and winter vegetables.
• When you prune, keep some of the cuttings to root indoors.
• Winterize roses after the first frost, but before the ground freezes. Prune canes back to 3’- 4’ or tie up climbers. Then mound soil at least 12” deep and 12” wide around the stem and crown.

Perennials stay green as long as possible to soak up nutrients for the winter.

Perennials and Bulbs

• In colder climates, dig up chrysanthemums after they finish blooming if you want to keep them over the winter.
• After the leaves turn yellow, you can divide and transplant fall-blooming bulbs such as autumn crocus, colchicum, and sternbergia.
• Continue planting winter and spring-flowering bulbs.
• Check on your stored tender bulbs to make sure they’re in a cool, dry place. Make sure you have them labeled so you’ll know what they are.
• If the ground isn’t frozen, you can continue to plant perennials. Look for discounted perennials at the garden center!
• In frost-free areas, you can keep on planting bulbs that don’t require a winter’s chill, such as anemone, amaryllis, calla lilies, freesia, lilies, and garlic.

Annuals and Containers

• Empty and clean out spent annual containers.
• Store clay pots indoors, since they can break in freezing weather.
• Smash up cracked or broken pots to use as drainage in next year’s containers.
• Plant colorful winter annuals such as pansies and ornamental cabbages.

Despite the winterizing benefits of phosphorus, some chemical products are phosphorus-free to comply with local pollution regulations.

Lawns

• Continue to mow cool-season grasses until they stop growing.
• Rake lawns and remove debris. Recycle leaves as mulch.
• November is the traditional time to apply winterizing fertilizer to your lawn (higher potassium and phosphorus, and lower nitrogen). Apply after grass stops growing but at least a month before the ground freezes.

Fruits and Vegetables

• Till the soil in your vegetable beds and add organic matter or compost to be ready for early spring planting.
• Cut back asparagus tops after they turn yellow.
• Enjoy the final harvest!

Houseplants

• Cut back on feeding houseplants.
• As the days shorten, houseplants will need less water, but make sure they get enough humidity.
• Be on the lookout for spider mites and other pests that can be found in indoor, climate-controlled environment.
• If you have chilled bulbs for the holidays, start forcing them by placing the pots in a relatively cool spot (60º F) with indirect sunlight. Increase temperature and light as green growth and buds appear. Plan for buds within 3-4 weeks.

Cleanup and Maintenance

• Clean up leaves before they suffocate your lawn and garden. Use them as mulch around plants, or in between planting rows in the vegetable garden, or add them to the compost bin. Up to 1” of leaves can be mown and mulched into your lawn.
• Remove fallen leaves that get caught in the foliage of shrubs and groundcovers.
• Take off any diseased or pest-infested foliage.
• “Tuck in” your perennial, vegetable, bulb, and strawberry beds with a layer of mulch. Heavily mulch plants that are susceptible to the cold.
• Add organic material under (or in place of) the mulch.
• Discourage munching critters like squirrels and rabbits by lightly piling evergreen boughs over plants and vegetables.

Also…

• Clean, sharpen, and oil garden tools.
• Drain and store garden hoses and protect outdoor faucets from freezing weather.
• Winterize your garden and lawn machinery according to manufacturer’s instructions.
• Fill up bird feeders for overwintering birds.
• Make a safe place to store some hardwood fireplace ashes for use in next year’s garden.
• If you have fish in your garden pond, continue feeding them until the water temperature drops below 50º F, then stop until the water warms above 50º in spring.
• Move hardy water plants to the deepest part of your pond.
• Stop all watering when the ground freezes.
• Watch the weather, and prolong your enjoyment of veggies and flowers by protecting them on frosty nights.
• lKeep adding to your compost pile, even though it will slow down in cold weather.

Related posts:

• October Lawn & Garden To-Do List
• December Lawn & Garden To-Do List
• May Lawn & Garden To-Do List

Fall is a great time to wind down the growing season with a little preventative maintenance for your yard and garden. The topic of fall cleanup is a matter of much debate among gardeners – some believe in keeping things tidy, while others prefer some organic clutter.

Whatever your style, a little fall housekeeping can go a long way in preventing disease and insect problems next year. Read on to find out more. So head outdoors one sunny Saturday and take care of some of the following chores:

Fall cleanup helps prevent disease.

• General clean-up: To prevent problems next year, clean up garden debris and turn it into next year’s compost. Leaves and organic debris can harbor fungi, bacteria, and overwintering insects that will return with a vengeance next spring. Tree leaves can become matted and moldy, smothering the ground and the plants beneath them. Fallen branches can create safety traps for unsuspecting feet. Yet when added to the compost pile, these ingredients are transformed into the world’s best plant nourishment.

• Remove diseased material: If any of your plants or shrubs were diseased this year, be sure to rake up and discard all the fallen leaves – they’re contagious. Don’t compost them unless your compost pile can reach 160° F.
• Cut back perennials: After your perennials are killed by frost (not before!), cut back the dead stems of any that look messy. If the dried stems have a nice shape or interesting seed pods, you can leave them for winter interest and cut them back in the spring.

Trim back perennials after they’re killed back by frost.

• Prune dead branches: The only pruning that should be done in the fall is the removal of dead or diseased branches. Inspect your trees, shrubs, and woody perennials, and trim away any dead wood. Remove and discard any branches infected by disease or cankers. Remove branches damaged by storms since broken branches are more susceptible to disease. Save other pruning jobs for early spring or right after the plant blooms.
• Till vegetable garden: Many insects and larvae spend the winter underground. Tilling or plowing will expose them to the surface, where they will be eaten by birds or killed by freezing temperatures. Turning the soil also helps control harmful soil fungi and diseases. And just like turning a compost pile, tilling your garden soil will aerate and speed up the decomposition of organic matter, so incorporate shredded leaves, grass clippings, or manure into the soil for on-the-spot composting.

Remove diseased branches before the problem spreads.

• Add soil amendments: In a healthy yard or garden, many problems with diseases, insects, and weeds take care of themselves. A healthy garden starts with healthy soil, so take advantage of a nice sunny day to get your soil in shape for next year. Do a soil test to determine what amendments are needed, and try a little landscape lasagna to get your garden primed for next spring!
• Apply mulch: Apply mulch after the ground cools down for the season – the insulation will help your plants through the winter while still allowing them to go dormant.

Further Information

• Fall Maintenance Checklist
• Dealing With Storm Damage to Trees
• Top-Dressing to Improve the Soil in Your Lawn
• Low-Maintenance Garden (video)
• Collecting Seeds (video)

Related posts:

• Fall Home Maintenance Checklist
• How to Plant a Fall Vegetable Garden
• September Lawn & Garden To-Do List

In October, gardeners have a color show unequaled in any other season. While many summer annuals are still blooming, trees begin their yearly show of fall color. Berries and nuts add polka-dots to shrub and tree borders, and fall-blooming perennials explode into bloom. The shifting angle of sunrays provides a gorgeous backlight in late afternoon, and the crisp air wakes up the senses.

A meadow of goldenrod (Solidago sp.) experiences the glow of autumn sunshine.

In terms of gardening tasks, October is a month of deadlines before freezing weather arrives. Most of the chores from our September Lawn and Garden To-Do List still apply, although with more urgency.

If you haven’t done so already, October is the month to:

• Move non-hardy plants indoors, including tender bulbs.
• Bring houseplants inside – the colder it gets, the greater the shock they will experience.

Sedum “Autumn Joy” – the name says it all.

Shrubs and Trees

• Plant container-grown or balled-and-burlapped trees and shrubs (hold off on bare-root trees and shrubs until late winter).
• Ideally, plant before mid-month to make sure the roots get established before the ground freezes. Since roots grow when the soil temperature is above 40 degrees F, warmer climates can plant later in the season.

Annuals and Perennials

• Plant bulbs. Spring-flowering bulbs—such as hyacinth, daffodils, anemone, crocus, and tulips—should be planted after the ground temperature drops below 60 degrees F.
• Label bulbs and tender perennials before they disappear for the winter.
• Watch the weather for the first killing frost – protect your fall-blooming perennials by building a simple wooden frame and cover with an old bed sheet. One night of looking tacky can prolong their blooming season by as much as a month.
• Harvest seeds from annuals and perennials.
• Tidy up woody perennials by pruning back and mulching – you may want to leave some for winter interest as long as they last, such as hosta, sedum, and ornamental grasses.
• Take cuttings from perennials to root indoors over the winter.

Beautyberry puts on a purple show in autumn.

Fruits and Vegetables

• Harvest bell peppers before frost kills the plants.
• Plant garlic, overwintering onions, and shallots.
• Divide overcrowded rhubarb.
• Apply a deep layer of mulch or straw to your root vegetables – if you keep the ground from freezing, you can harvest them fresh all winter long. If your climate experiences a lot of snow, you can cover the veggie rows with an old, porous carpet or thick blanket – something that you can easily grasp and pull back to access the plants.
• Prune berry vines by removing the vines or canes that fruited, leaving this summer’s new growth to put out berries next season.
• Harvest pumpkins, gourds, multicolored corn, and other fall veggies to use as decorations.

Lawn

• Fertilize your lawn now if needed.
• Plant grass in order to give it time to become established before winter.

Cleanup and Maintenance

• Apply a nice layer of mulch to your garden and naturalized areas.
• Continue cleanup of dead and finished plants and vegetables.
• Order seed and garden catalogues to study by the fire over the winter.
• Stock up on firewood.
• Store and repair tools.
• Do any digging or underground repairs or construction before the ground freezes.
• Commence leaf clean-up!
• If you are a fan of Halloween, make a plan to incorporate spooky decorations (and increased foot traffic) into your landscape. Make sure your yard is free of dangerous obstacles – you wouldn’t want to trip up any little goblins.

Chores to Reduce or Stop in October

• Reduce irrigation, and stop watering a tree or shrub once it has lost its leaves. If you plant evergreens this fall, make sure they get plenty of water before the ground freezes – they use water all winter.
• Reduce watering of indoor plants as well.
• Stop trimming hedges – the flush of new growth can be killed by freezing weather, which can harm the entire plant.
• Hold off on other pruning jobs until the plants go dormant. Ideally, make more thinning cuts and fewer heading cuts to reduce new growth.

Enjoy bell peppers while they last.

Further Information

Articles:

• Using Mulch in Your Garden
• Basic Shrub Pruning Techniques

Videos:

• Mulch
• Planting Bulbs
• Collecting Seeds

Related posts:

• May Lawn & Garden To-Do List
• November Lawn & Garden To-Do List
• July Lawn & Garden To-Do List

Fall and spring are great seasons for planting container grown trees and shrubs in your yard. Plants grown in containers are generally available only during the growing seasons, but they benefit from time to get established before the weather becomes too hot or cold.

Container grown trees and shrubs do best if you take the time to plant them correctly, so a few extra minutes spent planting can result in carefree plants for years to come.

Most trees and shrubs need a year or so to become established.

Do Your Homework

The best way to ensure success is by choosing trees and shrubs compatible with your climate. Before purchasing, you should:

• Take note of the light, water, temperatures, and air circulation in the planting area.
• Do a soil test to see if your soil needs pH or nutrient adjustment. You can do a little adjusting to fit your plants, but you’ll have better luck if you choose plants suited for your conditions.
• Determine how well your soil drains. Some trees and shrubs don’t like soggy roots while others hate drying out.

Adding a little phosphorus helps root growth.

Step 1: Tools and Materials

To plant container grown trees and shrubs, you’ll need:

• Shovel and/or mattock
• Sharp, sterile knife
• Gardening gloves
• Hose or watering can
• Organic soil conditioner (about half a bag per plant)
• A source of phosphorus (such as bone meal)
• Mulch
• Trees or shrubs

Be sure to give each plant room to grow to full size.

Step 2: Mark Locations

• Place plants (still in containers) where they will go. Work out the correct spacing and distribution before you start digging, making sure each plant will have room to spread out to its mature size without rubbing against structures or other plants.
• Take your shovel or mattock and mark a circle in the soil, at least three times the diameter of the pot, for the border of each planting hole. You can also use flags, marking paint, or other markers if desired.
• Move the plants off to the side, preferably in the shade.

Take the time to dig a proper size planting hole.

Step 3: Dig Planting Hole

The planting hole is the most important part! A wide planting hole encourages the roots to spread out and establish themselves faster.

• Your planting hole should be slightly shallower than the root ball, but at least three times as wide.
• The roots should rest on solid ground to keep the plant from sinking, with the top of the root ball about an inch above the soil level.
• If you’re ambitious, you can dig deeper around the edges, leaving a solid mound in the center of the hole for the root ball to rest on.
• If your soil is compacted, make sure to rough up the sides of the hole, so it doesn’t glaze over and act like a big clay container.

Gently slice any circling roots.

Step 4: Prepare and Place Plants

• Gently lay the plant on its side and remove the container. Be very careful not to break any stems or to yank too hard on any part of the plant. If it’s stuck, you may need to squeeze or pound the container a little to work it loose, or cut the container into pieces.
• Use a sharp, sterile knife to gently cut any roots that are circling or matted. Circling roots have a tendency to keep growing in a circle instead of branching out.
• Don’t loosen or break apart the root ball itself! The idea is to keep the root ball intact, with some careful slices to encourage branching.
• Place each tree or shrub in the planting hole, then stand back and take a close look. Make sure the plant is straight, at the correct spacing and depth, and turned the direction you prefer it to face.

Make sure the root ball isn’t too deep.

Step 5: Backfill Hole

• Backfill around plants in stages, taking time to tamp down each layer.
• Incorporate a few shovelfuls of soil conditioner, and a sprinkling of bone meal, in with the soil, but don’t overdo it. Plants do better when the surrounding soil is similar to the landscape soil.
• When backfilling, don’t pile dirt on top of the root ball – keep it the same depth, or slightly shallower, than it was in the pot.
• Use extra soil to make a small donut-shaped mound around your plant, to help hold water. If your plants are on a slope, you can also use excess soil to make a small barrier to slow runoff.

Proper planting guide.

Step 6: Water and Adjust

• Water plants thoroughly, allowing time for it to soak in completely.
• The soil will sink a little as air pockets collapse, so recheck your plants and fill in any low spots.

Step 7: Mulch

• Add a light layer of mulch to protect your newly planted trees or shrubs. Usually 2”- 4” is plenty.
• Don’t pile mulch around the stems, as it can cause rotting and disease.

Step 8: Care After Planting

• Give your trees and shrubs extra water until established. Water new plants at least once a week for the first 5-6 weeks, then gradually cut back to every 2-3 weeks once there are signs (such as new leaf growth) they’re becoming established.
• By the following year, your plants should be ready to handle normal growing conditions, with perhaps some extra water during dry periods.

Further Information

• How to Plant Balled and Burlapped Trees and Shrubs (article)
• How to Plant a Bare Root Tree (video)
• How to Choose a Tree for Your Yard (video)
• How to Grow Holly
• How to Grow Hibiscus
• How to Grow Camellias
• How to Grow Hydrangeas
• How to Grow Crape Myrtles

Related posts:

• How to Plant Balled and Burlapped Trees and Shrubs
• Can I Plant Trees and Shrubs in Late Fall or Winter?
• When to Plant Scotch Broom

If you grow perennials in your garden, you’ll soon encounter the need to divide and transplant them. Perhaps they’re overgrown, or crowded, or you’d like to spread them around your garden, or share them with a friend. If done correctly, most perennials can be divided quite easily without harming the plant. Here’s how to go about it.

When to Divide Perennials

The best seasons for dividing and transplanting perennials are spring and fall. Spring is the ideal time to transplant fall-blooming perennials and ornamental grasses, while fall is best for spring blooming perennials. Allow the plants several months to become established before their bloom time, in order not to miss a season of color. They also need at least six weeks of growing time before a hard frost. Some gardeners divide right after what seems like the “peak” year for that particular plant.

These daylilies are blooming poorly and crowding other plants.

Look for these warning signs, and divide your plants while they’re still healthy:

• The plant is too large for the space or is crowding other plants.
• Thinning in the center of the clump to a donut shape.
• Fewer flowers, straggly-looking leaves, or weak growth.

Step 1: Get Ready

The day before you plan to divide your perennials, give them a good soaking with water to help them stock up and survive the shock of transplanting. If the plants are tall, you may want to cut them back a third to prevent breakage and help conserve energy.

Next, gather your tools. You will need:

• Work gloves
• Shovel or spade
• Two pitchforks, or a clean sharp knife
• Soil conditioner or compost
• Wheelbarrow or tarp for transporting

Spreading perennials can be divided without disturbing the parent plant.

Step 2: Dig ‘Em Up

How you divide perennials depends on the growing habits of the particular plant:

• Clumping Perennials: (daylilies, chrysanthemums, asters, hostas) These plants typically grow from one main crown. The crown gets larger and larger each year, and sometimes you’ll see offsets (baby plants) attached to it. These plants are easiest to divide if you dig them up completely, so you can separate and divide the crown.



• Spreading Perennials: (bee balm, phlox, leadwort, perennial vinca, gooseneck loosestrife) These plants grow by surface or underground roots, or by dropping seed. They look more like a grouping of individual plants, each with its own crown and root system. You can divide these plants simply by digging up the ones you want to move while leaving the rest alone.
• Woody Perennials: (lavender, rosemary, candytuft, euonymus) These plants tend to have just one main stem or trunk, but they often spread when a stem touches the ground and takes root. You can sever and dig up the new plant without disturbing the original plant.
• Taproot Perennials: (oriental poppies, balloon flowers, butterfly weed) These plants have one main, deep root. To divide them, you must dig up the plant and cut it so that each division has a piece of the taproot along with some growth buds.

Here’s where you have to be fearless by following these steps:

1. Using a shovel or sharp spade, slice deep into the earth in a circle, at least 6” from the crown of the plant to severs the roots.
2. Work your shovel underneath the clump, and pry it out of the ground. The root ball will be almost as big as the plant itself, and try to dig up as much of it as you can. Use a combination of prying and pulling to work the entire root ball loose without breaking the stems.
3. Pull or carry the plant onto your wheelbarrow or tarp, so you don’t trample your other garden plants.

Step 3: Divide

If your perennial is the clumping type, you now need to divide it. Pull or cut apart the crown into 3-4 chunks. Each chunk should have several stems and a nice clump of roots. Larger clumps will become established faster, and bloom sooner, than smaller ones. As a general guide, you can expect next year’s plant to be about as wide as the newly-divided root ball.

For large plants, you can put two pitchforks through the middle, and pry the plant apart. I like to use my hands and a sharp knife to divide the clump, so I can have more control over the amount of roots going with each division. But for large, tough plants, I’ve even used an ax to chop it in two!

Don’t be afraid to break some roots, but try to follow where the plant naturally seems to split—sometimes they’ll even fall into pieces on their own. Discard any diseased or broken pieces; only keep the healthiest parts of the plant.

The thinned-out lilies will grow like gangbusters next spring.

Step 4: Replant

Now you’re ready to replant your perennials! After the trauma of digging and ripping apart your beloved plant, you can see how important it is to baby them in their new home. Follow these steps:

1. Dig a hole as deep as, and a little wider than, the root ball.
2. Mix in plenty of organic matter and sprinkle a source of phosphorus, such as bone meal or 0-19-0 fertilizer, in the hole to promote root growth.
3. Place the division in the planting hole. Make sure the roots are spread out and down – you don’t want downward-growing roots to be turned upward in the hole, or sticking up out of the ground.
4. Fill in around the plant with soil, tamping it gently down. Make sure the new plant is planted at the same depth as it was originally.
5. Water the plant well, and feed regularly with a balanced organic fertilizer. Water about every other day for the first 2-3 weeks. I like to baby my transplants with a little extra water for the rest of the growing season, particularly if they’re planted in a spot that doesn’t receive regular water.
6. Add mulch around the plants to insulate the roots and hold in moisture.

Newly divided perennials usually look pretty ugly until the next season, so focus on getting the roots properly settled and the crown nice and straight.

Further Information

• 10 Tips on Dividing Perennials (Fine Gardening)
• How to Grow Daylilies
• 10 Fall Perennial Garden Favorites
• Truck Bed Gardening

Related posts:

• Perennial Flower Garden Basics
• How to Grow Daylilies
• How to Buy End of Season Bargain Plants

By all these lovely tokens
September days are here,
With summer’s best of weather
And autumn’s best of cheer.

-Helen Hunt Jackson, “September”

September heralds the fall gardening season with cooler temperatures and a first taste of autumn in the air. Zones 1-4 will likely experience a first frost, while warmer zones look forward to relief from the late summer heat and drought. September also marks the autumn equinox, when day and night are the same length, and the waning daylight hints at the winter to come.

Now’s the time to be outside to enjoy the beautiful weather while taking care of some of the following lawn and garden tasks for September.

Annuals and Perennials

• Divide and/or transplant perennials, making sure to feed the roots with a good source of phosphorus.
• Don’t disturb asters, chrysanthemums, Russian sage, ornamental grasses, or other plants that are of interest in the fall and winter.
• September is the month to plant or transplant peonies.
• Plant annuals such as ornamental cabbage, pansies, violas, and snapdragons.
• After first frost in zones 7 and below, dig up and store tender bulbs such as caladium, canna, taro, elephant ear, dahlia, and tuberous begonia.

Dogwoods show off red berries against a backdrop of green leaves

Shrubs and Trees

• Container grown trees and shrubs can be planted now.
• Remove any dead shrubs and trees.
• Transplant trees and shrubs after the leaves begin to turn.
• Clean up fallen fruit to deter pests and disease.
• Address diseases now. Remove and destroy (do not compost) unhealthy leaves and branches after treating.
• Remove spent blooms, but don’t do any heavy pruning that would encourage new growth which would be killed by the first frost.
• Hold off on fertilizing trees and shrubs to allow them to harden before winter.

The fall apple harvest swings into high gear in September

Vegetable Garden

• Plant late-season vegetables such as peas, broccoli, cauliflower, cabbages, kale, brussels sprouts, leeks, lettuce, radishes, turnips, and onions.
• Once your vegetable garden is finished, plant clover, alfalfa, or legumes as a cover crop. These “green manures” can be plowed under in the spring for a natural fertilizer and soil conditioner.

Houseplants

• Bring houseplants indoors before the nights get too cool.
• Prepare for Christmas color! Place poinsettias and Christmas cactus indoors where they will receive 10 hours of bright light (and 14 hours of total darkness) each day. A Christmas cactus will need a cool spot (50-60 degrees), while poinsettias are OK at 65-72 degrees.
• Plant some spring-flowering bulbs in pots to enjoy over the winter. If you intend to force early blooming for the holidays, put your bulbs in the refrigerator now.

Lawn

• The first half of September is prime lawn time! Take advantage of the season to ensure a strong, tough lawn in the future.
• Start with core aeration and dethatching, leaving about ½” of thatch to decompose.
• If you are planting seed, or if your lawn is thin or weedy, sow seed before mid-month. Let the new shoots grow through 2-3 mowings before applying regular-strength fertilizer or a “weed and feed” product.
• Fertilize with a 3-1-2 fertilizer to encourage top growth and winter hardiness.

Cleanup and Maintenance

• Now is a great time to clear out new planting beds and apply compost (or leaves and grass clippings) to be ready for spring planting.
• Attack those weeds! Commercial herbicides are particularly effective this time of year, as weeds are storing up nutrients in their roots and quickly absorb the herbicide where it counts.
• Check out our videos on how to safely target weeds and organic weed control using vinegar.
• Label your perennials and bulbs before they die back to the ground.
• Put out extra bird feeders to support migrating birds.

Pests

• Slugs are particularly active in September – apply slug bait, diatomaceous earth, or other slug-control products during this time.
• In the fall, slugs lay clusters of eggs about the size of a small BB. Look under stones, boards, and around the edge of your lawn for these colorless eggs and destroy any you find.

Plan Ahead

• If you haven’t already ordered your fall bulbs, do so now! Hold off on planting them until after the first frost.
• Simplify leaf clean-up by installing gutter guard, covering open drainpipes, and tuning up or repairing lawn equipment.
• Build a compost bin to collect fall leaves.

Related posts:

• November Lawn & Garden To-Do List
• February Lawn & Garden To-Do List
• December Lawn & Garden To-Do List

A “spill pot” brings a playful touch to your garden – and it’s also a great way to recycle cracked or broken flower pots! All you need is a flower pot, some potting soil, and a few summer bedding plants.

It’s is a fun way to use up those last few plants after filling your other containers or beds – about 5-6 small bedding plants should work nicely. You can make a spill pot in just a few easy steps:

1. Loosen the dirt in an area about one foot wide and two feet long.
2. Add potting soil or compost to the entire area, to enrich the soil and hold in moisture.
3. Bury your pot about halfway in the soil, making sure the broken part is hidden.
4. Plant your flowers in the garden soil, but tuck a couple of plants inside the rim of the pot, to give the appearance of spilling out.
5. Care for them as you would any other garden annuals, with regular water and an occasional dose of balanced organic fertilizer.

August begins right in the middle of the “dog days of summer,” the hottest and most sultry time of the year. Ancient cultures believed that the excessive heat was caused by the alignment of Sirius, the Dog Star, with the sun during the summer. These are the days when everything seems languid and still – except mosquitoes, of course – and the sun threatens to bake lawns, gardens, and gardeners alike.

There is plenty to do in the garden in August, although it is best done in the early morning or late evening when temperatures are more comfortable. Whether you’re in cooler climates making early preparations for autumn, or warmer ones enjoying the height of the garden’s bounty, here are some suggestions for tasks around your yard and garden in August.

Lawn Maintenance and Preparation

• Prepare for fall grass seed planting by leveling low spots, removing weeds, and choosing your seed if it needs to be ordered in advance.
• Aerate your lawn and dethatch it.
• If there is plenty of rainfall, fertilize your lawn.
• To help your grass beat the heat and reduce lawn maintenance, keep your lawn mower blade on the highest setting. Don’t worry if parts of your yard turn brown this time of year – it happens.

Annuals and Perennials

• Spring and summer-flowering perennials can be divided and transplanted after blooming. In zones 5 and warmer: divide overgrown plants and discard the extra, or transplant during the coolest part of the day and preferably in the shade.
• Trim and fertilize your containers – they still have time for another show.
• Deal with late-season pests – such as aphids, whiteflies, and spider mites – with a spray of water from the hose.
• Treat diseased plants, and remove diseased foliage before leaves drop.
• Prune back vigorous climbers such as wisteria, and train them around trellises while the growth is soft.
• Propagate plants by collecting seeds, taking cuttings, or layering.
• Continue deadheading! For prolific bloomers like coreopsis and catmint, shear them lightly to encourage more blooms.
• Label your plants with garden stakes, particularly perennials that die down to the ground in the fall.
• In colder zones 1-3, begin moving your houseplants indoors to acclimate them.

Vegetables and Herbs

• Cut herbs to dry or freeze for winter use.
• Fall vegetable and herb seeds or starters can be planted now. If you live in colder climates, use a cold frame, otherwise sow directly in the ground. Consider spinach, radishes, carrots, beets, lettuce, overwintering onions, kale, kohlrabi, rutabagas, turnips, dill, cilantro, parsley, and chives.
• Harvest garlic when about half the leaves turn brown.
• Enjoy your harvest!

Shrubs and Trees

• Pick up and destroy fallen fruit from fruit trees to limit insect infestations.
• Make sure newly planted shrubs and trees get plenty of water.
• Install stakes for training and shaping.

Plan Ahead

• Place orders for spring bulbs. If you live in a warm climate, put them in the refrigerator to chill.
• Place orders for shrubs and trees to plant in the fall.
• Apply compost starter to new compost to speed up decomposition for fall use.
• Take pictures, or make notes, of plants you like while they’re blooming and full of leaves.
• Take note of the growth habits of shrubs for future pruning – they should be at their fullest about now.

Maintain

• Water, water, water! Early morning is the best time to water – target plants directly, and water deeply. Avoid getting leaves wet in the hot sun, and avoid soaking containers during the hottest part of the day – both of these can burn plants.
• Keep close watch on your birdbath, water features, and hummingbird feeder – take steps to correct or avoid mold, stagnation, and mosquito larvae.
• Continue weeding, to reduce competition for water and nutrients.
• Beware of powdery mildew, which is caused by moisture and humidity. Help prevent mildew by watering in the cool of the morning, when roots can absorb water but excess will evaporate as the day warms. Also avoid overhead sprinkling in mildew-prone areas. Do not compost leaves that are mildewed.
• When the temperature is over 85 degrees, avoid chemical applications such as fertilizer, fungicide, or insecticide.
• Add compost and mulch to keep your garden cool and to prepare for fall planting.

Stay cool, and enjoy the bounty of your work this growing season!

Further Information

• Summer Lawn Care Guide
• Perennial Flower Garden Basics
• Vegetable Garden: Growing Warm-Season Vegetables
• Water-Saving Gadgets for Your Garden

Related posts:

• July Lawn & Garden To-Do List
• September Lawn & Garden To-Do List
• June Lawn & Garden To-Do List

If you enjoy working or playing outdoors, chances are you’ve come in contact with either poison ivy, poison oak, or poison sumac. And if you’re like me, you’ve likely experienced the irritating rash that comes from handling these poisonous plants. Here are some tips for identifying, removing, and coping with poison ivy and its relatives in the lawn and garden.

Three asymmetrical leaves and a hairy stem point to poison ivy.

Identifying Poisonous Plants

Poison ivy, oak, and sumac are commonly found in woodland areas, naturalized beds, river banks, and growing up trees, but they also can show up in the most manicured of gardens. They all have temptingly colorful foliage in the fall, and offer the same allergic reaction when handled or cut. Poison ivy and oak have similar growth patterns while poison sumac is a bit different.

The adage “Leaves of Three, Let It Be” is actually a good suggestion. Poison oak and ivy are master imitators, taking on the leaf shape of the plants around them and making them difficult to identify. The three-leaf pattern gives them away, so you’re safer staying away from any three-leafed plant unless you’re sure it isn’t poisonous.

A large poison ivy vine growing up a tree.

Poison Ivy and Poison Oak

Poison ivy is a climbing or sprawling vine that can also grow upright. It has three broad leaves at the end of each stem, either straight or slightly lobed, with greenish-white flowers and small white berries in summer, along with hairy-looking roots attaching it to trees that give it away in the winter when the leaves are not present. Older leaves often have a slight distinctive lobe along the edges.

Like poison ivy, poison oak usually has a cluster of three broad leaves, though it can have up to seven. The leaves tend to be glossy, and the plant grows upright.Western poison oak has lobed leaflets like an oak tree, while eastern poison oak is more like a glossy version of poison ivy.

Poison oak and poison ivy can be difficult to tell apart, and the leaf shape varies from region to region. For help identifying them, check with your local agricultural extension service, or go to Poison Oak Photos and Poison Ivy (about.com).

Poison sumac has red stems.

Poison Sumac

Poison sumac is an upright shrubby plant with long, arching stems with up to 13 smooth, feather-shaped leaflets along each stem. The red stem distinguishes poison sumac from other types of sumac. It tends to grow in wet areas such as creek beds, swamplands, and coastal areas. It’s more common in the coastal southeast but can grow in boggy woodlands. For help identifying this plant, check out these Poison Sumac Pictures (about.com).

Two Innocent Bystanders

• Virginia creeper is a common woodland plant that is frequently mistaken for poison ivy. It has five feather-shaped leaves and isn’t poisonous. However, if you’re in an area where Virginia creeper grows, there’s a good chance poison ivy is nearby!

• Kudzu is another aggressive, nonpoisonous vine with a suspicious three-leafed pattern. Its leaves are larger and smoother than poison ivy, but again, they frequently grow in the same area.

Facts About Poison Exposure

• Poison ivy, oak, and sumac contain a toxic oil called urushiol. When the plants are touched, this oil can be released onto the skin.
• Every part of the plant is poisonous, even if the plant is dead.
• The oil can best be compared to Super Glue. It sticks to your skin and penetrates within 30 minutes. Once it’s bonded, it isn’t coming off until the itchy rash finally sloughs off the toxins over a period of days or weeks, helped along by the miserable scratching of its victim.
• As irritating and uncomfortable as the rash may be, even more dangerous reactions can occur from breathing or ingesting the chemical, particularly when the plants are burned.
• The most common means of exposure are from touching or pulling the plants, but you can also be exposed when lawn mowers throw the oils into the air, or through an intermediary, like pets who’ve brushed up against the plants.
• The poison ivy rash is not contagious and does not spread by breaking the blisters. It only spreads through contact with the actual plant oil, although rashes can worsen over time, so it feels like it’s spreading.

Poison plants are difficult to eradicate.

Getting Rid of Poisonous Plants

• Hand pulling: The most effective way to get rid of poison ivy/oak/sumac is to pull or dig it up, but most of us are too sensitive to do this without getting infected. Work carefully when the ground is soft and wet, to have a better chance of getting all the roots.
• Smothering: Another organic method involves cutting the vines close to the ground, then smothering them with plastic, newspaper, or carpet scraps. This can be a way to sterilize large areas but takes a long time to work.
• Chemical herbicides: Glyphosate works fairly well, or you can try stronger “brush killers” containing triclopyr and 2,4-D. Herbicides can be sprayed or painted on the foliage, or painted on the cut ends of larger vines. They may need to be reapplied to make sure it’s all gone. For best results, use herbicides when the plants are fully leafed out in spring and summer, and make sure to target the plants on a non-windy day.

Tips for Working Around Poisonous Plants

• If you’re working around poisonous plants, wear gloves and long clothing to prevent skin exposure.
• Train yourself not to wipe your brow or otherwise touch your skin with your gloves!
• Immediately after exposure, scrub skin thoroughly with plenty of soap and cool water, or with an urushiol-removing soap such as Tecnu.
• Wash clothes and gloves, immediately after use, in hot water with regular detergent.

Further Information

• Poison Ivy, Oak, and Sumac Information Center
• Poison Ivy (Walterreeves.com)
• Poison Ivy (Maps, Identification, and Treatment) (quickcare.org)
• www.poison-ivy.org
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