Danny Lipford » Irrigation & Watering

How to Repair a Broken Garden Hose

Julie Day — Wed, 17 Feb 2010 16:31:03 +0000

Over time even a good hose can develop a leak or break.

A garden hose that leaks is both an annoyance and a waste of water. So whether you left your hose out in freezing weather, ran over it with the lawn mower, or your dog used it as a chew toy; the good news is that repairing it can be done in about five minutes for less than $5.

Make sure you buy the correct replacement parts.

Materials Needed

To repair your garden hose, you’ll need:

Screwdriver: Most hose repair kits have Phillips head screws, but check your kit first to be sure.

Hose repair kit

Hose Repair Kit: Available at hardware stores or garden centers, hose repair kits come as male or female threaded hose ends as well as a connector for fixing a leak in the middle of a hose. Kits are available for various diameter hoses in both metal and plastic. I’ve used both kinds with great results. The hose is secured to the end using a two-piece clamp or a hose clamp. If you’re not sure which thread or hose diameter you need, cut off the broken end of the hose, and take it with you to the store.

Utility Knife: With a new blade, or a really sharp pocket or other knife.

Irrigation Tip

Hose repair kits can come in handy when making a homemade irrigation system. Using a few repair kits and an old garden hose, I was able to make an inexpensive, customized hose network for my lawn sprinklers. By cutting the hoses to the right length and concealing them against the house and under mulch, I had a budget-friendly system that rivaled an expensive underground system!

How to Repair a Garden Hose

Step 1: Cut Hose

Using the utility knife, cut cleanly through the hose. The safest way to do this is to lay the hose on the ground, so you can apply pressure without your fingers getting in the way. The cut needs to be smooth and square, not slanted or ragged. You can simply cut off the broken part or cut the hose to any length you want.

Step 2: Insert Replacement End

Push the threaded replacement end of the hose repair kit as far as it will go into the cut end of the garden hose. Since the sleeve in the replacement end will be a tight fit, it might take a bit of effort to work the hose over the sleeve, but it’s important to make sure the sleeve goes all the way into the hose.

Step 3: Attach Clamp

Using a screwdriver, attach the clamp that came with the hose repair kit securely around the end of the garden hose. Make sure the two screws (or one screw if your kit comes with a hose clamp) are very tight, to prevent your garden hose repair from leaking.

Your newly repaired garden hose is now ready to use, and you’re back in business!

Completed garden hose repair.

(703) Everyday Home Ownership: Maintenance and Repair

Tips for Conserving Water in Your Lawn and Garden

Tricia Craven Worley — Tue, 02 Feb 2010 13:00:36 +0000

Take the following steps to conserve water in your lawn or garden:

Raise the height of your lawn mower 2” so it requires less water during a drought.
Check hose connections to be sure they aren’t leaking.
Use a shut-off control on your hose when watering.
Clean sidewalks and driveways with a broom instead of washing down with a hose.
Apply mulch in your gardens and landscape to help retain moisture.

Homemade Rain Barrel for Your Yard

Danny Lipford — Thu, 19 Nov 2009 13:00:28 +0000

Rain barrels are a great way to save and store water for use on your lawn or garden. While commercial models are available, you can also make your own rain barrel from a plastic garbage can. Watch our video on How to Make a Rain Barrel for Your Yard to find out how.

VIDEO TRANSCRIPT

Using a rain barrel is one of those no-brainer ideas. It’s the perfect solution for free additional landscape watering. Some of the rain barrel systems on the market are pretty expensive, but here’s how you can create your own for about fifty bucks. Start with a rugged 32-gallon garbage can, drill a hole near the bottom and put in a hose bib using rubber washers on each side and a nut to hold it in place. Next, cut a hole in the top for a strainer basket to help keep out leaves and twigs. Be sure to drill some small holes in the edge of the lid to be able to fasten it securely with zip ties. Place the can on some cinder blocks and attach your downspout into the strainer basket and you’ve got your own rain barrel. You can attach a hose and open the hose bib to water any plants or, attach a soaker hose and run it around the plants in your flower bed and, all the water is free!

Wireless Moisture Sensor for Your Lawn or Garden

Jodi Marks — Fri, 13 Nov 2009 13:00:45 +0000

It’s important to keep you lawn watered during dry weather, but timed sprinkler systems often cut on when watering isn’t needed. The Wireless Moisture Sensor from Vigoro uses a remote sensor to monitor moisture levels in the soil. It then relays the information to the timer to prevent it from cutting on unnecessarily. The Vigoro Moisture Sensor is available at The Home Depot.

How to Make a Rain Barrel for Your Yard

Joe Truini — Wed, 14 Oct 2009 19:46:36 +0000

This homemade rain barrel to recycle rainwater for use in your lawn and garden is an easy do-it-yourself project that costs less than $50.

Here’s how to go about making a rain barrel to help you conserve water in your yard.

Rain Barrel Materials

Large plastic garbage can with solid bottom
Drain strainer (available in lawn & garden department for outside drains)
Brass water spigot
Brass nut to fit the threads on the spigot
2 Flat neoprene rubber washers (available in plumbing department)

Making the Rain Barrel

Drill a hole in the side of the garbage can near the bottom to fit the threaded end of the water spigot.
Put one of the rubber washers on the spigot.

Push the threaded end of the spigot through the hole in the can from the outside.
Slip the other rubber washer on the spigot threads from inside the can.
Screw the brass nut on the spigot from inside the can and tighten.

Cut a hole in the can lid with a jigsaw to fit the drain strainer.

Insert drain strainer in hole in lid.

Place lid on can and drill 1/4” diameter holes through the lid and top flange of can on each side of the can and lid.

Attach the lid to the can through the holes using cable ties to hold the lid on securely and prevent children or animals from falling in the rain barrel.

Remove the existing gutter downspout from the gutter, and set the rain barrel on concrete blocks next to the house under the downspout opening.

Modify the downspout so that it fits in the top of the barrel.
Attach a hose to the faucet and use it for watering the plants in your yard.

Watering Plant Foliage

Julie Day — Mon, 24 Aug 2009 18:41:10 +0000

When I water, I like to spray the plant leaves in order to clean them off and cool them down. Is this OK? -Matt

A spray of water is a great way to remove buildup and grime from foliage and to dislodge aphids and other insects. However, wet foliage and soggy soil quickly invite fungal diseases, so it’s best to spray your plants only occasionally, and in the morning, so that the leaves have a chance to dry completely during the day.

Gardening Myth

We’ve all heard the warnings that water droplets concentrate the sun’s rays and burn plant leaves. This is actually a myth, although if your water is high in dissolved salts and minerals, frequent spraying can result in a damaging buildup on the leaves.

As for cooling your plants, it’s true that wetting the foliage can reduce leaf temperature, which reduces evaporation and can help your plant conserve water. While it’s not recommended as a daily habit, some gardeners head out on extremely hot, dry days to cool down particularly heat-sensitive or fragile plants.

However, routinely spraying your plants during the heat of the day will waste a lot of water that might be more useful around the root zone. Before you rely on overhead spraying to cool your plants, make sure you’ve taken these steps to protect your garden from the heat:

Water your plants regularly and deeply at the roots. Well hydrated leaves are your best defense against temperature extremes.
Mulch your plants generously, to cool the roots and hold in moisture.
Choose plants that are appropriate for your planting zone, and consider landscaping with drought-tolerant plants to reduce watering needs.
Use overhead spraying only as an emergency measure in extreme heat waves. High temperatures and low humidity cause plants to lose water very rapidly.

Further Information

A Mist in the Sun (Mobile Press-Register)

Water-Saving Gadgets for Your Lawn or Garden

Julie Day — Wed, 08 Jul 2009 21:06:41 +0000

Water is a precious resource during hot summers.

Summer is here, and along with it often comes a shortage of rainfall in many areas. Conserving water in the garden is actually not as difficult as you might think. With a little attention to timing, and some careful watering, you can have a healthy garden that doesn’t put a strain on the water supply. Consider investing in a few of these inexpensive gadgets from your local garden center to help you in your efforts.

Hose Extension Wand

Hose extension wands are a lifesaver in the garden! They allow you to apply water directly to the soil and roots, rather than wasting it (and damaging your plants) by spraying in the air or on the foliage. They also save both your back and planting beds by letting you water without having to bend over or step in your beds. They apply water very effectively, which means you won’t need to use as much.

Watering Tip

Choose an extension wand with either a trigger handle or an on/off switch. That way, you don’t waste water as you’re walking from place to place.

Water Breaker

Most extension handles come with a water breaker (also known as a soaker nozzle) on the end, but if it doesn’t, you’ll need to add one. A water breaker looks like a small shower head with a lot of little holes. It disperses the water into a gentle soaking shower, rather than the hard, soil-eroding blast of other hose nozzles. This not only protects soil and plants, but it allows you to water more slowly and gently, which increases absorption and reduces runoff.

Soaker Hose

Soaker hoses are easy to use and very effective at conserving water. They are simply garden hoses that are made out of a porous material and capped on the end. When the water is turned on and pressure builds inside the hose, the water is forced out of the pores in a slow, steady drip that can easily be absorbed by plants.

Lay soaker hoses throughout your garden, loop them around shrubs and trees, or line your vegetable garden beds for an instant water-wise irrigation system. Covering them with mulch makes them invisible and less likely to lose water to evaporation.

Watering Tip

If you cover your soaker hoses with mulch, be sure to remember to move them before you start digging!

Drip Irrigation

If you’re a little more adventurous, try installing a drip irrigation system. Drip irrigation targets water directly to a plant’s roots in a slow drip where it can be easily absorbed. Since there’s no runoff or wasted water, it provides maximum efficiency.

You can design a drip irrigation system to fit any garden – the emitters (small nozzles that drip the water) can be installed at intervals to suit your plantings and can be aimed directly where you need them.

Water Timer

No irrigation system is complete without a timer to allow you to apply water at the ideal time of day and for the right length of time, regardless of your schedule. Much water is wasted by busy gardeners who water during the heat of the day (when it’s convenient) or water for way too long (because they forgot the water was on).

Simple, programmable, battery-powered (or windup) timers are available that fit right onto your outdoor faucet. No special equipment is needed, just hook it up, program it, and let it do its thing. Be sure to cancel the timer cycle during periods of rainfall!

Watering Tip

Reduce water runoff by setting your timer to run in two intervals about 30-45 minutes apart, rather than one long watering cycle.

Rain Gauge

Any straight-sided container can be used as a rain gauge.

Whether you purchase a rain gauge or simply use a straight-sided recycled can or container, it’s very important to keep track of the rainfall in your area. If you use a sprinkler, it’s important to keep track of how much you’re watering, too.

Most gardens and lawns need about an inch of water per week, and with a little measuring, you can adjust timers and hand watering to provide exactly what is needed without wasting water.

Rain Barrel

Rain barrels are wonderful water-catching containers that can be installed directly under your gutter downspouts. By collecting the water that flows from your roof during a rainstorm, you can significantly reduce your water usage.

Most rain barrels have a spout for filling watering cans, and if your landscape slopes adequately you can even attach a hose for gravity-powered watering.

Slow-Release Gadgets

This glass globe is filled with water, which trickles into a potted plant.

There are many options available for slow-release watering systems, particularly for watering containers or small ornamentals. Watering spikes made of glass or clay have a reservoir that’s filled with water which seeps into the soil. They’re great for keeping your plants alive while you’re on vacation.

Slow-release systems that hold several gallons of water are available for larger plants. The donut-shaped bag is placed around the trunk of the plant and filled with water, making them great for newly-planted trees that aren’t easily reachable with a hose.

You can make your own slow-watering system using a plastic drink bottle or jug with a hole punched in the bottom.

Compost and Mulch

Lastly, be sure to set aside part of your gardening budget for the purchase of high-quality compost and mulch. A water-wise garden depends on the amount and quality of organic matter in (and on) your soil, so keeping a nice layer of compost of mulch will create a garden that needs less water.

Further Information

Check out more water-saving tips at the Irrigation and Watering section of Around the Yard.

Best Drought-Tolerant Lawn Grass for Sandy Soil

Julie Day — Wed, 25 Feb 2009 16:32:44 +0000

New, drought-tolerant grass varieties can reduce the need for lawn irrigation.

“What is the best grass to plant in sandy soil that will withstand drought? I would like to reduce lawn irrigation to conserve my well water.” -Ken

Sandy soil and drought are a tough combination, but one that is all too common in many parts of the country. Sandy soil increases the effects of drought because it drains water rapidly, making it more difficult to find a lawn grass that will survive dry conditions without regular irrigation.

If your area is suited to cool-season grasses, consider fescue. Varieties such as tall fescue, creeping red fescue, and hard fescue have are adapted to many soil types (including sandy soil), and they’re drought-tolerant once established.

If you live in a warm climate, options include Zoysia, Bermuda, or Bahia. These grasses can rapidly take over neglected areas and will tolerate both drought and sandy soil conditions.

Check with your local garden center as well, since new, drought-tolerant grass seed varieties and mixtures are developed every year, and local retailers often carry the seed best suited to your climate and soil type.

In addition, you can increase the drought-tolerance of your lawn by amending or top-dressing your lawn with compost or other organic matter. As the organic matter breaks down, it will improve the quality of your soil as well as its ability to retain water.

To learn about alternatives to lawn grass in dry climates, check out Xeriscape for Drought-Tolerant Landscaping and Landscaping with Drought-Tolerant Plants.

When to Water Plants Before a Freeze

Julie Day — Tue, 27 Jan 2009 14:20:44 +0000

“A hard freeze is in my weather forecast. What are your recommendations about watering trees and shrubs in cold weather?” -Carol

In winter, dry conditions can actually be more damaging than the cold itself. Cold winter air is usually quite dry, and winter winds can remove water from plants faster than the roots can absorb it. This is especially true for evergreens, as water evaporates quickly from their foliage. In addition, if the ground freezes, the underground water turns to ice crystals which cannot be absorbed by plant roots. Even dormant plants need and absorb water year-round.

Water acts as an insulator. Plant cells that are plump with water will be stronger against cold damage. Likewise, moist soil will tend to stay warmer than dry soil, so a regular watering schedule in dry, cold weather can help protect plants from freezing temperatures. Follow these guidelines:

If your soil stays frozen all winter, then fall is your prime time – make sure everything is well watered before the ground freezes.
If you experience freezing weather only occasionally, and you have had insufficient rain or snowfall, water deeply a day or so before a freeze is forecast. Be sure to water the entire root system – a good rule of thumb is to water an area the size of the plant’s drip line.
Be extra attentive to newly planted trees and shrubs. Not only are their roots less established, but the churned-up soil can allow cold air to penetrate deeper to the roots.
Water when the air temperature is above 40° F, and don’t water if there’s snow or ice on the ground.
Water early in the day, so the plants have time to absorb it before the temperature drops at night.
Don’t wet the foliage. Commercial growers sometimes use sprinkler irrigation to protect plants from frost, but it requires constant sprinkling and should only be done under specific conditions.
Be careful not to over water. Once or twice per month should be sufficient – the plants will not be absorbing water as fast as they do during the growing season, and the cool soil can easily become soggy.

Further Information

For more information on watering your plants and lawn, check out these articles and videos:

Watering Tips (video)
Watering Lawns (video)
Home Irrigation How-To (article)
Calculating Lawn Irrigation Costs (article)

Homemade Swimming Pool Line Antifreeze

Julie Day — Fri, 07 Nov 2008 13:00:16 +0000

“Pool winterizing antifreeze has gotten pricey. Is there a way I can make my own antifreeze for my pool lines? My contractor and I put the main lines below the frost line as a preventative measure.” -Kurt

At anywhere from $15 to $30 per gallon, pool antifreeze can certainly get pricey, especially if you have long supply lines.

Pool antifreeze is generally a propylene glycol solution, sometimes mixed with alcohol or other additives and sometimes just diluted with water. Propylene glycol can be purchased in bulk – one source I found was The Chemistry Store. If you decide to make your own solution, I would recommend getting some sound advice from a chemist or pool specialist regarding the correct proportions and type of water (distilled, etc.) that should be used, and also in proper storage and disposal of propylene glycol.

Pool line antifreeze will eventually end up in your pool water. Don’t try to cut corners by substituting auto antifreeze or any product with ethylene glycol – even at low concentrations, the ethylene glycol reacts with pool chlorine to form toxic chlorinated hydrocarbons in the water.