If a drought-tolerant garden makes you think of cacti and rock gardens, then think again – there are many colorful and lush choices that are perfect for a low-maintenance, water-conserving landscape. As parts of the country experience a reduction in rainfall or restrictions on water use, drought-tolerance has become an increasingly desirable characteristic in cultivated plants.

Many flowering fruit trees—such as apples, pears, and plums—are drought-tolerant.

The term “drought-tolerant” indicates that once a plant is established, it can survive with minimal or no supplemental irrigation. This differs from a plant’s “water use” since some species use high amounts of water when it’s available, then go nearly dormant during a drought. Conversely, some plants use very little water overall but require a steady supply, making them unable to endure a severe shortage.

Cercis Canadensis - “Forest Pansy” Redbud

Drought Tolerant Plant Options

A surprising number of plants and shrubs are drought-tolerant. Some of the best choices are also quite beautiful.

Colorful options for your garden include:

• Butterfly bush
• Flowering Quince
• Sugar Maple
• Daylilies
• Cosmos
• Coneflowers
• Spirea
• Shrub Roses
• Fringe Tree

Containers plants include:

• Ageratum
• Ornamental Kale
• Lantana
• Geranium
• Zinnia
• Verbena
• Coreopsis
• Gaillardia
• Nasturtium
• Marigold

For even more options, see our printable lists of drought-tolerant plants

• Drought Tolerant Annuals and Perennials (PDF 59kb)
• Drought Tolerant Shrubs and Trees (PDF 57kb)

Tips for Choosing Drought-Tolerant Plants

Though they can’t always be identified by appearance, certain characteristics usually indicate drought-tolerance:

• Native plants are often hardy and drought-tolerant.
• Plants with gray or white foliage, or foliage with a silvery underside, tend to use less water.
• Small or narrow leaves reduce water usage and transpiration (water loss through the leaves).
• Succulent plants survive by storing water in their thick, spongy-feeling foliage.
• Ornamental grasses are often drought-tolerant, though turf grasses usually are not.
• Many plant labels now give water usage and drought tolerance, so your local plant nursery may have already done the research for you!

Primroses interplanted with Dusty Miller make a garden appear cool.

Most plants need water to become established and benefit from occasional irrigation during periods of extreme heat or drought. The idea is to minimize irrigation while still maintaining a healthy plant. By choosing plants wisely, and maintaining your garden with water-conservation in mind, you can have a lush, colorful garden that is tough enough to withstand hot, dry summer conditions with very little maintenance required.

Mahonia and Aucuba form a low-maintenance border

Helping Your Garden Survive a Drought

• Mulch deeply (2-4 inches) to help hold in moisture.
• Enrich soil with organic matter so it will retain more moisture.
• Limit fertilizing to prevent rapid growth that requires more water.
• When you irrigate, water deeply to encourage root growth.
• Avoid watering during the heat of the day or in windy conditions.
• Use a drip or soaker system, targeting only the plants that need it.
• Even healthy plants may wilt slightly during the hottest part of the day. Irrigate only if they do not perk up in the evening or early morning.
• Plant shade trees to cut down on wind and evaporation.
• Create a small reservoir of soil around each plant to prevent irrigation water from running off.

Crape Myrtles bloom in summer and make a shady retreat.

Further Information

• Xeriscape for Drought-Tolerant Landscaping
• Dry Climate Gardening
• Calculating Lawn Irrigation Costs
• Home Irrigation How-To

House plants in containers depend on us for food and water, so it’s important to recognize the warning signs indicating that they have received either too much or too little water.

In our changing climate, water is becoming a precious resource. For many communities, municipal water restrictions are now commonplace, requiring innovative approaches to landscaping and gardening. One solution is xeriscaping, derived from the Greek word for “dry,” which employs drought resistant plants and water conservation measures to limit the use of irrigation in landscaping.

Xeriscapes do not follow a specific design but apply a set of principles to determine the most efficient and pleasing layout based on the climate and topography.

Planning and Design

In order to work in harmony with the natural features of the land, a detailed plan is essential. A xeriscape plan differs from traditional landscaping plans in that it attempts to adapt to the existing features and climate, rather than forcing change through watering or amending.

Start by making a scale drawing of your yard and its existing features. Be sure to include your house, driveways, walkways, patios, trees, planting beds, spigots, downspouts, buried cables and drains. Take note of the slope of the land, sunlight and shade, and which areas tend to be wet, dry, windy, hot, humid, or cool.

The next step is deciding how you want to use your yard. Pencil in any new features, such as a vegetable garden, an area for pets, or a shady spot for relaxing. The final step is determining which types of plants are best suited for each area and how they will receive water.

Improve Soil

If you are using only native plants, soil amendments may be unnecessary, and some plants actually thrive in poor soils. For most plants, however, a nutrient-rich, well-drained soil is essential to hold in moisture without drowning the plants. For flower beds, work 1 to 2 inches of compost into 6” or more of soil. Deeper planting holes for trees and shrubs should have compost or organic matter added as well. If your soil is particularly compact with clay, consider a drainage amendment such as Perma Till.

Minimize Grass

Rethink the concept of a traditional “lawn” since traditional turf grass requires a lot of water. Limit grass to walking and play areas, and consider the use of mulched or naturalized areas, along with patios and walkways, as alternatives. Do not plant grass where grass does not like to grow! Choose drought-tolerant grass suitable for your climate—such as zoysia, Bermuda, or buffalo grass—and plant during rainy seasons to minimize watering.

Choosing Plants

Using plants native to your area reduces the need for fertilizer, soil amendments, and irrigation. Xeriscaping uses the principle of “plant zoning,” in which plants are grouped according to water, light, and soil needs. This minimizes water waste and makes maintenance much easier. If you love certain plants that require lots of water, group them together close to a water source such as a drainage area or downspouts to make use of rainwater runoff.

As much as possible, choose plants that are drought and heat tolerant, particularly for dry sunny areas. Instead of irrigating an entire bed, tuck in containers for a splash of color, and water them by hand.

Mulch

Using a layer of mulch around plants increases moisture retention and helps keep roots cool. See Using Mulch in Your Garden.

Watering

If there are areas that require extra irrigation, install drip systems or soaker hoses that conserve water by targeting specific plants. Avoid sprayer-type irrigation systems that waste water through evaporation and misting. Install water collection systems, such as rain barrels, close to plantings with higher water needs. Water after 9 p.m. and before 9 a.m. to reduce evaporation. Water less frequently but more deeply to encourage stronger roots that can withstand drought.

Maintenance

Xeriscapes require less maintenance than traditional gardens, because the detailed planning ensures that each plant will be naturally suited to the area. Nevertheless, routine weeding, pruning, irrigating, and fertilizing (if needed) are necessary to keep plants healthy and to reduce competition for nutrients and moisture.

Xeriscaping Tips

• Check your local ordinances to find out if there are any restrictions on watering or turf installation. Some communities change the water restrictions throughout the season, depending on rainfall and temperatures.
• Research your area’s annual natural rainfall, particularly in recent years, so that you can choose plants with similar water needs.
• Research your region’s native plants – they will be naturally well-adapted to your climate and soil. Check with your local agricultural extension service for a list of plants native to your area.
• Dig a few “test” holes to get a sense of the soil makeup of your yard. You’d be surprised how it can vary over a relatively small area.
• Have your soil analyzed to determine needed soil amendments and to place plants according to soil requirements. Again, your local agricultural extension service is a great resource. Soil analysis will tell you the pH value, current levels of major nutrients, and recommendations for soil amendment.
• Redefine how you interact with your patch of earth. Rather than trying to conquer or rehabilitate problem areas, work with the land’s natural habits to create a low-maintenance landscape that thrives on its own resources.

Further Information

For more about xeriscaping, check out the Denver Water Department website.

Maps showing the average rainfall in each state can be found at the Western Regional Climate Center.

Charts giving the average monthly temperature and precipitation for many cities and towns in the United States are available at Country Studies.

To check current drought conditions in your area, go to National Drought Mitigation Center.

With drought gripping much of the country, and the price of water on the rise, it’s become increasingly important to know how much water you use to irrigate your yard as well as how much it costs.

Watering Dos and Don’ts

Water your yard early in the morning and soak the ground thoroughly to a depth of three inches or more. The general rule of thumb is to provide one inch of water to your lawn per week during dry conditions, but this can vary greatly depending on where you live and the time of year. To see how much water your grass is actually receiving, put a container with straight sides—such as a coffee mug or plastic container—on the ground in the yard while you are watering. Then use a ruler to measure the depth of the water in the container.

Calculating Water Use

To provide your lawn with one inch of water takes a little over half a gallon per square foot (0.623 gallon to be more exact). That means that every 10’x10’ area will require over 62 gallons of water. That doesn’t sound like much until you consider that a 100’ x 100’ lawn uses 6,230 gallons of water every time you turn on the sprinklers!

To calculate the amount of water you use, multiply the width times the length of your yard in feet to get the number of square feet of area. Then multiply that figure by 0.623 to come up with the number of gallons used (or use our calculator below). This assumes that your yard is square or rectangular. For more unusual shapes, you’ll have to dig out your old high school geometry book to come up with the amount of area involved.

Calculating Water Costs

Now that you know how much water you’re using, you can estimate how much it will cost to keep your lawn green. While city water systems usually give separate prices for water and sewer services on your bill, in most cases both are actually based on the number of gallons of water you use. So for every 1,000 gallons of water that comes out of your faucet, you are also charged not only for the water but for 1,000 gallons of sewerage. This holds true regardless of whether it goes down the drain or on your grass.

Many cities will install a separate meter for irrigation purposes that does not include the cost of sewerage. This can save a lot of money, though you will have to pay several hundred dollars to have it hooked up as well as a monthly minimum whether you use it or not.

To calculate the cost of watering your yard, divide the number of gallons used by 1,000 then multiply by the price you pay per 1,000 gallons (see our calculator below). Don’t forget to include the sewer costs unless you have a separate meter.

Here in Mobile, Alabama, it costs $2.00 per 1,000 gallons for water plus $4.26 per 1,000 gallons for sewer, for a total of $6.26 for every 1,000 gallons of water that comes out of the tap. That means that to supply a 100’ x 100’ yard with one inch of water costs over $12.00 if you have a separate meter for irrigation or $39.00 if you don’t. If you water your yard every week during the summer, the cost will add up to close to $50 or $156 a month.

Given the severity of the current drought, water rationing is already taking place in some parts of the country. When supplies run short, lawn irrigation is the first thing to go. If you find the cost of watering your yard too steep—either financially or ecologically—you might consider getting rid of grass altogether and planting drought resistant shrubs and other plants instead. Not only will it help conserve water and save money, but you won’t spend your Saturdays behind the lawn mower either.

When you consider that the earth is made up of nearly 70% water, you wouldn’t think there would be any concerns over a water shortage. But, the truth of the matter is that of all that water on our planet, only 3% of it is fresh water, which is safe for drinking and a good three-quarters of that dinky 3% is located in the frozen ice caps and unavailable! Add to that the current drought situations across the nation and the threat of global warming … Well, I think it becomes clearer that we have to take measures now to conserve water, not only for ourselves, but for future generations.

Professional Irrigation Systems

Maintaining your lawn and garden is a major source of water consumption. Most of us want to have that lush, green lawn and be the envy of the neighborhood. For some people, that means dragging out the garden hose with an attached sprinkler and moving it around several times in order to keep the grass sufficiently watered. However, that is also one of the most inefficient ways to water the lawn, and a vast amount of the water is completely wasted.

Installing an irrigation system is the best way to maintain your yard and tightening the reins (no pun intended) on water consumption. It may surprise you, though, as to how much an average irrigation system will cost. While it certainly depends on the quality of the components you use, it’s not unusual to spend $500 or more to irrigate an area no larger than 3,000 square feet, and that’s just for the parts for the most basic of systems. Add to that the cost of having a professional installer put the system in for you and you’re looking at a nice chunk of change. Realistically, for a nice system with quality sprinklers, valves, control box, etc. that is professionally installed, plan on spending $2000-$3000.

DIY (Do-It-Yourself)

You can cut that cost down by installing everything yourself, but it’s important that you do it right. That means understanding the role of each type of sprinkler head, installing the controller and the all-important backflow preventer. To be honest, this is stuff a lot of homeowners don’t want to deal with. However, before you become overwhelmed, check out the websites of Rain Bird and Toro for great consumer information on planning, layout and installation of a do-it-yourself irrigation system. Orbit Irrigation Systems has an online video tutorial that is very helpful. They’ll take you through the installation step-by-step and explain the use of zones, timers and rain delay controllers.

For the ultimate in do-it-yourself systems, you should check out the Lawn Belt system. This is an irrigation system that can be installed without having to trench your yard. The design of the tubing is such that you can simply cut a slot in the ground with a flat blade shovel and push the tubing into the ground. The design also prohibits any damage during a freeze. The tubing expands and contracts so burst pipes are never an issue. A starter set only runs $139.95. You can attach it directly to a hose bibb and turn it on manually, or set it up on a controller and timer.

Drip Irrigation

For flower beds, plants and trees, you really don’t want to use a sprinkler system. One of the most effective ways to water these areas and use only a fraction of the water is to incorporate a soaker hose or, better yet, a drip irrigation system. A soaker hose is simply a rubber hose that is porous and allows water to slowly seep out of it to the surrounding area.

A drip irrigation system can directly target the roots of your plants and flowers without watering any of the surrounding area which can save up to 30% of the water used for irrigation. You can also add a little pizzazz to your flower beds by using decorative items to distribute the water. Orbit Irrigation has some cool little bugs that you attach to your drip system.

Water Saving Tips

There are several things you can do to help cut the waste of watering. One of them I already mentioned, which is using drip irrigation for flower beds, plants and trees instead of a directional sprinkler. Here are a few more tips:

• Water in the early morning hours, preferably from 5:00-10:00 AM. Watering in the middle of the day means you lose a good 30%-40% from evaporation. Watering at night means you stand the chance of developing fungus on your vegetation.
• Create irrigation zones. Not all plants are created equal. Some need less water than others. By dividing the lawn and garden into zones, you can incorporate sprinklers, soakers and drip systems throughout for a more efficient watering system.
• Keep off the sidewalk. No matter how much you water it, concrete doesn’t grow! Adjust all sprinklers to water only the areas that need the water.
• Inspect your sprinkler heads and hoses on a monthly basis. Clogged heads or a split hose can waste a lot of water.
• Watch the weather. If Mother Nature is watering the lawn, you shouldn’t be. Consider installing a rain sensor device on your irrigation system that will shut it off automatically when it detects rainfall.
• Remember that you get what you pay for. Don’t purchase the cheapest irrigation system you can find. Parts will wear out quicker, lines crack and that means more water wasted.
• Place 2-3 inches of mulch in flower beds to help retain moisture and keep weeds from growing. Make sure you don’t place the mulch directly against the plant.
• Finally, use an automatic timer/controller. It won’t forget to turn the water off if you get involved watching the big game on TV.

Watch the segment on CBS The Early Show’s website.