Building a stone waterfall involves careful planning and design to achieve the desired result. The interior of the waterfall is made of concrete blocks then faced with stone to reduce the amount of stone needed.

There are several options when choosing a pool for your backyard including concrete, vinyl, or fiberglass. Each has advantages and disadvantages in terms of cost, ease of installation, and durability.

Using heavy equipment to dig the hole for a backyard pool can be a challenge in tight quarters. Once the hole has been dug, steel reinforcement is laid and specially modified concrete is sprayed and shaped to form the sides and bottom of the pool.

Installing a pool in your backyard can take quite a lot of planning and preparation, from removing trees and shrubs to dealing with building codes and access for heavy equipment.

In our changing climate, water is becoming a precious resource. For many communities, municipal water restrictions are now commonplace, requiring innovative approaches to landscaping and gardening. One solution is xeriscaping, derived from the Greek word for “dry,” which employs drought resistant plants and water conservation measures to limit the use of irrigation in landscaping.

Xeriscapes do not follow a specific design but apply a set of principles to determine the most efficient and pleasing layout based on the climate and topography.

Planning and Design

In order to work in harmony with the natural features of the land, a detailed plan is essential. A xeriscape plan differs from traditional landscaping plans in that it attempts to adapt to the existing features and climate, rather than forcing change through watering or amending.

Start by making a scale drawing of your yard and its existing features. Be sure to include your house, driveways, walkways, patios, trees, planting beds, spigots, downspouts, buried cables and drains. Take note of the slope of the land, sunlight and shade, and which areas tend to be wet, dry, windy, hot, humid, or cool.

The next step is deciding how you want to use your yard. Pencil in any new features, such as a vegetable garden, an area for pets, or a shady spot for relaxing. The final step is determining which types of plants are best suited for each area and how they will receive water.

Improve Soil

If you are using only native plants, soil amendments may be unnecessary, and some plants actually thrive in poor soils. For most plants, however, a nutrient-rich, well-drained soil is essential to hold in moisture without drowning the plants. For flower beds, work 1 to 2 inches of compost into 6” or more of soil. Deeper planting holes for trees and shrubs should have compost or organic matter added as well. If your soil is particularly compact with clay, consider a drainage amendment such as Perma Till.

Minimize Grass

Rethink the concept of a traditional “lawn” since traditional turf grass requires a lot of water. Limit grass to walking and play areas, and consider the use of mulched or naturalized areas, along with patios and walkways, as alternatives. Do not plant grass where grass does not like to grow! Choose drought-tolerant grass suitable for your climate—such as zoysia, Bermuda, or buffalo grass—and plant during rainy seasons to minimize watering.

Choosing Plants

Using plants native to your area reduces the need for fertilizer, soil amendments, and irrigation. Xeriscaping uses the principle of “plant zoning,” in which plants are grouped according to water, light, and soil needs. This minimizes water waste and makes maintenance much easier. If you love certain plants that require lots of water, group them together close to a water source such as a drainage area or downspouts to make use of rainwater runoff.

As much as possible, choose plants that are drought and heat tolerant, particularly for dry sunny areas. Instead of irrigating an entire bed, tuck in containers for a splash of color, and water them by hand.

Mulch

Using a layer of mulch around plants increases moisture retention and helps keep roots cool. See Using Mulch in Your Garden.

Watering

If there are areas that require extra irrigation, install drip systems or soaker hoses that conserve water by targeting specific plants. Avoid sprayer-type irrigation systems that waste water through evaporation and misting. Install water collection systems, such as rain barrels, close to plantings with higher water needs. Water after 9 p.m. and before 9 a.m. to reduce evaporation. Water less frequently but more deeply to encourage stronger roots that can withstand drought.

Maintenance

Xeriscapes require less maintenance than traditional gardens, because the detailed planning ensures that each plant will be naturally suited to the area. Nevertheless, routine weeding, pruning, irrigating, and fertilizing (if needed) are necessary to keep plants healthy and to reduce competition for nutrients and moisture.

Xeriscaping Tips

• Check your local ordinances to find out if there are any restrictions on watering or turf installation. Some communities change the water restrictions throughout the season, depending on rainfall and temperatures.
• Research your area’s annual natural rainfall, particularly in recent years, so that you can choose plants with similar water needs.
• Research your region’s native plants – they will be naturally well-adapted to your climate and soil. Check with your local agricultural extension service for a list of plants native to your area.
• Dig a few “test” holes to get a sense of the soil makeup of your yard. You’d be surprised how it can vary over a relatively small area.
• Have your soil analyzed to determine needed soil amendments and to place plants according to soil requirements. Again, your local agricultural extension service is a great resource. Soil analysis will tell you the pH value, current levels of major nutrients, and recommendations for soil amendment.
• Redefine how you interact with your patch of earth. Rather than trying to conquer or rehabilitate problem areas, work with the land’s natural habits to create a low-maintenance landscape that thrives on its own resources.

Further Information

For more about xeriscaping, check out the Denver Water Department website.

Maps showing the average rainfall in each state can be found at the Western Regional Climate Center.

Charts giving the average monthly temperature and precipitation for many cities and towns in the United States are available at Country Studies.

To check current drought conditions in your area, go to National Drought Mitigation Center.

Gardeners have taken this natural process and turned it into the concept of “mulching” where a thick layer of organic matter is applied to planting beds and gardens.

Mulching helps the garden by providing:

• Weed control
• Soil enrichment
• Moisture retention
• Visual appeal

Types of Mulch

Mulch is both functional and decorative, with many different types available. When choosing mulch, consider the density and texture relative to the plants in your garden. Tender seedlings will have a hard time pushing through a thick layer of coarse mulch while large areas around trees and shrubs may benefit from a heavy weed-preventative barrier. While your choice of mulching material should primarily be based on its purpose, it’s also a matter of taste and budget. Some popular options include:

Organic Mulches that Break Down in One Season

• Leaves: While readily available, uncomposted leaves are susceptible to blowing winds when dry and can pack down tightly when wet. Perfect for natural areas, they work best in formal gardens when composted first.
• Grass Clippings: Plentiful during the mowing season, lawn clippings provide great soil amendment but may look messy until they begin to break down.

• Compost: Compost packs a double punch as both mulch and an excellent organic fertilizer.
• Paper: A layer of old newspapers work great as a weed barrier underneath mulch or straw. Try to use papers with biodegradable inks. Shredded waste paper may also be used.
• Hay and Straw: Often used for newly seeded lawns and vegetable gardens since they break down quickly. Hay and straw often contain seeds that may sprout.
• Less common (but effective) one-season organic mulches include shredded corn stalks, manure, peat moss, and rice hulls.

Organic Mulches that Last More than One Season

• Wood: The different varieties of mulch made from ground up trees ranges from shredded and stringy to chipped and chunky. Chipped cedar mulch is both attractive and aromatic. Wood mulches come in single- double- and triple-ground, with the price increasing each time it goes through the grinder. For an inexpensive basic mixed ground mulch, check your local landfill – many cities collect and grind lawn and tree waste, then sell it for as little as $5 per pickup load.

• Bark: Beautiful and durable, bark nuggets have the disadvantage of drifting out of unedged beds, especially in a heavy rain. While relatively expensive, bark can be easily purchased in convenient lightweight bags and provides a nice finished look.
• Pine Straw: Acid-loving plants love pine straw. Longer needles last longer than shorter ones. In areas with a lot of foot traffic, pine needles tend to break down quickly.

• Dyed Mulch: Many shredded wood varieties of mulch are now being dyed every color of the rainbow. So if you’ve always wanted the color of your mulch to reflect your favorite sports team, you just might be in luck.
• Other multi-season organic mulches include seed and nut hulls, cocoa bean hulls, corn cobs, and sawdust.

Inorganic Mulch

• Rubber: Often manufactured to look like wood or bark, recycled rubber mulches are commonly used in playgrounds and walkways. Rubber mulch is the topic of debate among environmentalists, as the benefits of recycling weigh against the potential for off-gassing of toxic chemicals into the air and ground water.
• Rock: Stone, gravel, and crushed rock are highly resistant to wind and maintain their appearance for years. Since rock absorbs heat, it often gives gardens a parched appearance.

Applying Mulch

Spread mulch to a depth of 2” to 4” and keep it back slightly from stems and trunks to avoid smothering the plants. Avoid a “volcano” effect around tree trunks – trees grow their roots to varied and specialized depths and can be sabotaged by an extremely thick layer of mulch.

Beautifying Your Garden with Mulch

In designing your garden, think of mulch as the elegant background that allows your ornamental plants to show their stuff. In the photo below, notice how the edged lawn and mulch accentuates the shape and color of the crimson pygmy barberry.

Mulching not only makes mowing easier around trees but also calls attention to attractive bark and trunk shapes. For a balanced appearance around small ornamental trees, consider making the mulch ring the same diameter as the treetop.

Mulch can also be used to set off an area in a pleasing shape and act as a design feature in its own right. In the yard below, the mulched area serves to:

1. Eliminate the need to grow grass in a shady area.
2. Accentuate the gorgeous Japanese maple tree.
3. Provide a shapely curve in the overall lawn design.

Also consider using more then one type of mulch for design purposes. In this garden, river stones were used as an edging, with shredded wood mulch around the plants themselves.

While river stones often appear white or gray when dry, they can display beautiful colors when wet.

Whatever your design or purpose, your plants will be protected from extreme temperatures, weeds, and short dry spells by a protective layer of mulch.

For a more detailed description of different types of mulch, go to HoneyCreek Vineyards and Orchards.

Of all the remodeling projects, by far, the one tackled more often by homeowners is painting. We’re entering the time of the year when it makes sense to take on any outside painting, because the weather is going to be cooler and more comfortable. But not all outdoor painting projects are equal. You may have several types of surfaces to paint outside your home and each has its own unique method to ensure success. Here are a few tips that, hopefully, will keep your colors and your painting experience bright.

Painting Wood

Whether it’s lap siding, board and battens or porch railings, if you want a successful paint job, it all starts with preparation. As is often the case with wood surfaces that have to deal with Mother Nature, the old paint begins to flake, exposing raw wood.. Before you pick up your paint brush, you need to remove as much of the old, flaking paint as possible. This can be done with a simple paint scraper. If, however, you have a large area in need of scraping, you’re best bet is to use a drill motor or cordless drill with an attachment specifically designed for stripping paint. A synthetic fiber wheel does a great job and lasts much longer than the old sandpaper wheels that are often used. For very stubborn spots, you could also apply a chemical paint stripper. This, however, will mean that the job is going to take you longer to complete because the surface needs to be completely dry before moving on to the next step. Once the loose paint is removed, prime the raw wood with a good quality primer before applying a finished coat of paint.

Painting Wrought Iron

The process for iron work, such as railings, columns or decorative hangings is very similar to wood, which means the most important step is preparation. Using your drill motor or cordless drill with a wire wheel attachment is perfect for removing any rust or deteriorating paint. There are also chemical strippers available for iron, but in most cases, the wire wheel is sufficient. To prime the metal surface, you need to choose a primer made for metals. You can purchase it in liquid form and apply it with a brush like normal paint, but if the metal has intricate details, you’d be better off using an aerosol spray primer. The metal primer will typically have a rust inhibitor formulated in it and will be either a gray or burnt umber color when applied. Once the primer dries, it provides a surface that new paint will bind to so it will last for years without flaking.

Painting Masonry and Concrete

Brick, cinder block and stucco surfaces all have one thing in common: They are porous. Preparation for masonry surfaces starts with sealing them. A masonry primer will do the job, but be forewarned, these sealers are usually quite thick, more so than paint, and it takes a lot longer to cover the area you’re painting, but it needs to be done. Actually, there are some newer methods out there to spray the sealers on masonry surfaces as well as new paint, but it’s mainly done by professionals and not for do-it-yourselfers.

Concrete is very similar, but in addition to being able to paint it, you can also put stain on it. Staining can actually be a little less strenuous than painting since coverage is greater and it’s easier to apply. There are a lot of colors to choose from, too, so you can match or compliment other colors on your house.

Painting Metal

Although I already mentioned wrought iron, there are other metal surfaces around your house that could stand a coat of paint at times. Eave metal, valley metal and even roof vents can all be painted. The challenge is how to prepare them. Most of these metals are galvanized and paint, typically, won’t stick to them. The secret is a common item you probably have in your kitchen pantry. Take a rag and dip it in simple white vinegar. Swab the metal surface with the soaked rag and allow it to dry. There is a chemical reaction with the vinegar that creates a surface that any spray paint will adhere to. Roof vents are probably the best thing to spray paint, because you can paint it a color to match your shingles and help make it blend into the color of the roof. It really looks a lot better than a dull, rusty metal vent.

Painting Plastic

Finally, for items such as lawn furniture or even something as simple as a flower pot made from plastic, there are some really great ways to make them look spectacular. Certainly, a spray paint formulated to bond with plastic is what you want to use, but you don’t have to settle for simple color any more. First, wash the plastic with a water and mild detergent solution to remove any dirt and grime. Once it is completely dry, you can spray paint it with some of the new plastic paints that also will spray on a texture, such as hammered metal. You’ve got several color choices and it makes a really unique appearance.

One final word of advice. Be sure to read the directions to any of these specialty paints paying close attention to recommended weather conditions, proper ventilation and application options.

Related Article: How to paint or stain almost anything

Watch the segment on CBS The Early Show’s website.

Over the years, I’ve been involved in thousands of projects to help improve, maintain or beautify a home. One of the most visible things you can add to the exterior of your home is fencing. While there are plenty of options, I’m going to mention one of them only very briefly: chain link.

Chain Link Fences

Chain link is certainly a durable option, but if you really want your fence to make a statement, my advice is to use some other material. As much as I travel this country, chain link screams out to me as industrial and impersonal. I see miles of it stretched out along the interstate to enclose the roadway, so for a home, I say use something with a tad more character.

Before you get started on a project like this, make sure you identify your property lines. I can’t begin to tell you how many times I’ve heard a homeowner tell me about all the hard work they put into erecting a fence only to have to tear it down because it was built on someone else’s property! Also, keep in mind that you are going to have to dig several holes for the fence posts. Now, unless you just enjoy wearing callouses into your hands, I would strongly suggest renting a gas-powered auger. You’ll be able to dig all the holes you need in a matter of a couple of hours.

Wood Fences

Quite likely, wood fences are one of the most popular choices when looking for an option other than chain link. The natural “flaws” in wood are what really gives it the character I was speaking about. You can install it yourself, although it does take time and patience. If you’ve never put up a fence before, I wouldn’t particularly think you could do this in a single weekend, but it’s possible.

There are several things you’ll want to decide on when putting up a wood fence. First, the material the fence will be made from has to be chosen. Because of the exposure to the elements, many people decide on using pressure treated lumber, but you could also use a cedar fence. The advantage of cedar is that you can stain it easier than you can treated lumber.

Second, the design of the fence should be taken into consideration. You can make it really simple with placing the boards directly next to each other for full privacy, or you can stagger the boards on each side of the stringers to create what is called a “Good Neighbor” or “Shadowbox” design. In essence, you get a fence that looks identical on either side. The type of fence board would also fit into the design decision. You can use square edge boards, dog ear boards or a gothic style. The easiest ones to find, though, are going to be the square edge and dog ear boards.

The wood fence boards are nailed in place by creating a frame using a 4×4 post set in the ground and three 2×4 rails placed horizontally between the posts, which should be no more than 8 feet apart. To make sure the posts are lining up just right, you can use some nylon string stretched tightly from one corner to the other to create the path you want the fence to follow.

The cost of a wood fence really depends on your particular area of the country. You can plan on spending anywhere from $5-$7 per linear foot for a 6′ high, dog-ear fence. Of course, plan on spending a little more for additional materials for any gates you install.

Vinyl Fences

One of the main drawbacks of building your fence from wood is the maintenance it will require. Between harsh sun, freezing rain and snow and other weather-related issues, you may need to seal your fence on a yearly basis. If not, it will turn grey very soon and can give your whole house a run-down look. One way to avoid that is to use vinyl fencing.

Vinyl fences do cost more, but there is very little maintenance involved. Just as you do for wood fences, you need to carefully consider your design. You can get a full-privacy design, just like wood, or for a more aesthetical appeal, try a simple picket fence. You can install a very simple picket fence that is only 3′ tall for about $5-$6 a linear foot. Of course, you can go with something a little more elaborate like a 6′ privacy panel with a lattice design on the top, but you’ll be spending about $16-$18 per linear foot for something along those lines. A visit to ArborLife will give you some good ideas on what’s available.

Of course, the really great thing about going with vinyl is that you can purchase it in pre-made sections. Usually the sections will be anywhere from 6′-8′ long, which means it shouldn’t take anywhere near as long to install as it would for a wood fence.

The downside of using vinyl is that it simply isn’t as strong as wood. That’s not to say that it will always be that way. In fact, some companies out there are designing more durable systems, but there aren’t that many of them out there just yet.

Composite Fences

One other option is using composite materials, like the kind you can get from Timbertech. You’re going to pay more for the initial cost, but with composites, you get a fence that is virtually maintenance free and as durable as wood. It won’t fade or crack or warp, which means it will look new year after year. Unlike many vinyl products, the composite materials look just like true wood, so you can still have the character you’re searching for that you might not get with vinyl.

One of the main advantages to the Timbertech product is a steel reinforced rail that I got to see this past year at the International Builder’s Show in Orlando. Plus, you can get some really nice decorative post caps made from the same material. You can learn a lot more about this product on their website. As I mentioned, it will be more for the initial cost, running about $35 per linear foot, but it will be one of those extra costs you won’t mind paying when you weigh the benefit of near-zero maintenance.

If you simply aren’t someone who feels comfortable wielding a power saw and auger, don’t worry. Many of the large home centers also offer installation services for fences. In many cases, you can even take advantage of the complimentary design service to see what the fence would look like before it’s ever installed.

Finally, just a word of caution. While many people feel the need to use a fence as a way to create privacy and keep prying eyes away from their property, it also provides a private place for would-be intruders. So, if you install a full privacy fence, make sure to include motion detecting flood lights to keep the bad guys at bay!

Watch the segment on CBS The Early Show’s website.

Danny shares some ideas to help you transform your backyard into a comfortable outside living space complete with an outdoor kitchen for entertaining or simply feeding the family.

Two different approaches to creating an outdoor entertaining area are looked at in the episode. The first one includes an existing pool, covered patio and a new brick outdoor kitchen with stainless appliances, fireplace and granite countertops all of which seamlessly become an extension of the already great-looking backyard. The second project involves building an approximately 1000 sq. ft multi-level deck using TimberTech TwinFinish composite decking with a new concealed fastener system. The 3-level deck also includes a covered bar, swing and benches.

Although very different projects, each looks at how to address foundation and drainage issues as well as how to choose the right materials and when to hire a pro. Without a doubt both homeowners spent much time planning their projects and it shows.

I thought this show would never make it out the door! Seems like there was one delay after the other when it came to building the composite deck down in the St. Pete area. After several delays, though, it finally got kicked off and we were able to meet up with the homeowners and contractor and start shooting footage. The Timbertech material is awesome, to put it mildly. I know it costs more to use composite materials, but it sure is worth the extra cost when you look at the next-to-nothing maintenance you’ll have by using it.

While we’re on the subject of decks, this is one of the most attractive methods for adding an outdoor entertaining space and, in essence, adding on to the square footage of your home. But before you run out and buy some lumber, here are a few things you should consider.

• Before you do anything, make sure you know what you can and can not do in relation to your local building codes. This is especially true for all you do-it-yourselfers out there. Structural stability, location and size are main factors to consider before the first post goes in place.
• Don’t overbuild the deck. A huge deck next to a small house simply doesn’t work. If you really think you need a lot of extra space, build the deck in several layers. This will break up the expanse and also add some character to your entertaining area.
• Spend more for low maintenance. I know I already said it, but it bears repeating. This is especially true if you do a lot of entertaining. The deck needs to be able to stand up to traffic, moving furniture back and forth, kids, pets, line dancing….you get the picture.
• Shy away from boring lines in the deck boards. Mix and match the layout to have some diagonal patterns, inlaid designs or other features to bring some life to your deck. Give it personality!
• Consider functionality. Adding built-in benches, planters even built-in cup holders in the railing can enhance your entertaining space.

Sometimes the biggest hurdle is designing the deck and creating the materials list you need. All I can say is thank goodness for the Internet! Check out this free design service. It won’t provide you everything to really customize and personalize your deck, but it sure is a great starting point.

Finally, for homes without decks, don’t forget that even the simplest additions can create a fabulous entertaining area outside, if only for one or two people! A spot for a couple of chairs and a chiminea, maybe a water feature or a bench beneath an arbor can provide a very nice spot to enjoy the outdoors. Again, look for hints online to create your space. Here’s another website for choosing a chiminea.

Other Tips From This Episode

Typically, you think of a pathway as nothing more than the shortest distance between two points. It’s the map that gets you from here to there. Frankly, I think that’s rather dull, particularly if the two points in question are in your own back yard. Left alone, an often-traveled pathway can lead to a worn rut filled with dead grass, so creating a pathway is the logical thing to do. Instead of a full-blown pathway, though, consider creating a path of stepping stones. There’s actually less work involved to install them and, aesthetically, stepping stones can give your yard its own unique personality.

Step 1: Decide where your stepping stones will go

Take a good look around your yard and find those areas where the grass has been worn down because it is a frequently traveled path. This is the best candidate for a stepping stone path. However, don’t feel like you are tied to just those areas. A stepping stone path is also a great way to accent a secluded section of your yard or the perfect pathway within a flower bed to provide a place to step when pulling weeds!

Step 2: Layout the walkway

You’re going to want your stepping stones to be placed as far apart as your comfortable walking stride is. I’ve seen some people use spray paint to mark the path, but I like using gutter spikes instead. Once you know where you want your path, walk that area and place a gutter spike in the ground where the center of your arch lands. The spike is going to represent the center of each stone. The nice thing about using the gutter spike is that once you’re ready to place the stone, you simply pull out the spike. No muss, no fuss.

Step 3: Decide on what materials to use

There are a lot of choices for stepping stones and it all depends on your personal taste. A more traditional look can be obtained with a simple square patio paver. These can be found in plain concrete or a washed aggregate. You can get the same material in a round paver or, perhaps, use several brick pavers to create each step.

Another choice would be to use a man-made paver like a solar stepping stone from the HomeBrite Corporation. These steps are made from a rugged plastic and have a solar cell embedded within the paver that charges up a battery during the day and automatically lights up at dusk creating a really unique path. They are available at The Home Depot for about $25 each.

Flagstones make a really nice walkway because each stone is unique in appearance. Speaking of unique, I’ve even seen some concrete stones that are made to look like throw pillows! I wouldn’t want them in my yard, but they are definitely one-of-a-kind.

Step 4: Dig out the sod

Remove the gutter spike and place your stone in that spot with the center of the stone where the gutter spike stood. Using a long blade utility knife or a garden trowel, cut out around the perimeter of the stone. Remove the stone and continue cutting out the sod. You’ll also want to dig down about an inch more than the actual thickness of your stepping stone. Try to make the bottom of the hole as flat as possible.

Step 5: Put in crushed stone and pack

The reason for digging the hole deeper than the thickness of the stone is because you want to place a crushed limestone or a coarse sand in the bottom of the hole first. This will ensure against any sinking over a period of time. Spread the crushed stone or sand in the hole and pack it down making sure it is as flat and level as possible. If you’re using coarse sand, wetting it down first will help pack it tightly.

Step 6: Place your stepping stone

Now it’s time to place the stepping stone into the hole you created. Press it into the packed material and then pack in some of the loose sand or crushed stone around the stepping stone to give it some added support. Stand on the stone to help set it in place.

Now all you have to do is repeat these six steps for every stone or paver. Make sure you don’t forget to add some sand or crushed stone around the stepping stone after you set it in place. Also, by taking the time to dig out the extra soil and setting the stepping stone at the same height as the ground will guarantee that you don’t create a tripping hazard. It also makes it a cinch to cut the grass without having to worry about the mower blade striking the stone.

Watch the segment on CBS The Early Show’s website.