Danny Lipford » Organic Gardening

How to Recycle Leaves in Your Yard

Julie Day — Wed, 11 Nov 2009 19:55:02 +0000

Leaves are nature’s perfect mulch.

Every year, our friendly neighborhood shade trees remind us that Mother Nature has a mind of her own, as the leaves begin to flutter down and cover the ground like a crunchy snowstorm. Left to their own devices, those leaves would form a dense mat under the tree, choking out competing plants and breaking down to provide nutrients back to the tree. It’s a brilliant system—if you’re a tree! But we homeowners—with our driveways, lawns, and gardens—find all those fallen leaves quite a nuisance.

Instead of sending your leaves to the landfill, consider recycling them to feed the plants in your garden. Leaves are a great, free source of nutrients and insulation for your garden if used correctly, and you can keep your lawn neat while still allowing nature to work its magic. Here’s how to make use of fallen leaves in your garden.

Mulch small amounts of leaves directly into your lawn.

Mulch Mowing

The easiest way to recycle fallen leaves is simply to leave them alone. Up to an inch or two of leaves can be mowed and left to break down in your lawn, adding nutrients and a bit of mulch to your lawn grass. Make sure your lawn mower has a mulching function and sharp blade, so that the leaves are thoroughly shredded and spread thinly.

Shredding Leaves

If you have large amounts of leaves, you can use them for other purposes in the garden, but they must first be shredded. Whole leaves (especially large ones) form an impenetrable, moldy mat that will suffocate nearby plants and make a mess. There are several ways to shred leaves:

Lawn Mower: Mow over leaves while on the ground with the lawn mower and either pick them up with the bag attachment or rake up after shredding.
String Trimmer: Rake up leaves and put them in a garbage can. Crank up your string trimmer and use it to shred the leaves while in the can.
Leaf Blower: Use the shred and vacuum feature on some leaf blowers.
Shredder: Run leaves through a commercial shredder.

Shredded leaves break down much faster.

Uses for Shredded Leaves

Once you’ve got a nice pile of shredded leaves, there are many great uses for them:

Compost Pile: Add shredded leaves to a compost pile. Shredded leaves are a great source of carbon for the compost pile. Layer them with nitrogen-rich waste such as leaf clippings, and keep some extra on hand to sprinkle over messy kitchen scraps.
Leaf Mold: Some gardeners like to process leaf compost separately to produce a super-rich mulch and soil additive called leaf mold.
Container booster: Fill your planting containers about half-full of tightly-packed leaves, then add regular potting soil and plants. The leaves will break down slowly and feed the plant, saving on the cost of potting soil.
Instant bulb bed: To create a bed of spring woodland bulbs such as daffodils, first layer shredded leaves and topsoil, then place a layer of bulbs, then cover with layers of leaves and topsoil to about 8”- 10” deep.

Leaves are great for suppressing weeds under shrubs.

Mulch: Spread shredded leaves around shrubs, trees, flowers, and vegetable gardens to use as Mulch. I like to use leaves in areas that need deep mulch, such as back behind large shrubs where it’s hard to keep weeds under control. Since leaves tend to blow in the wind, you may find that your mulch migrates back into the lawn on windy days! If this is a problem in your yard, try sprinkling the mulch with water or adding a thin layer of regular wood mulch, pine straw, or topsoil on top.

Gardening Tip

Many tree leaves (including black walnut, eucalyptus, and sycamore) beat the competition by releasing chemicals that inhibit the sprouting and growth of seeds. If you’re planting new seeds or transplanting seedlings, hold off on the leaf mulch until the plants are established.

Garden blanket: Mound leaves around and over tender perennials and shrubs to provide extra winter insulation. In the spring, gradually remove the leaves to allow the soil to warm. You can also move containers of perennials and shrubs to a sheltered area and bank with leaves for the winter. Keep some extra leaves on hand to cover plants in case of a surprise spring freeze.
Amend soil: Leaves are full of nutrients and very beneficial additives to both clay and sandy soil. Use leaf compost, or simply spread a thick layer of shredded leaves on your vegetable garden to be tilled into the soil. The leaves will break down slowly in the ground and substantially improve the quality of your garden soil.

Some gardeners even raid their neighbors’ leaf piles!

Leaf Recycling Tips

A few parting thoughts as you go to work recycling those leaves:

Leaves are often acidic. Check your soil pH and amend with lime, if necessary, to keep the pH neutral.
Avoid mulching with tree seeds, such as maple tree “helicopters” and oak tags. You’ll end up with a lot of sprouts to pull!
Tougher leaves, such as oak leaves, are slower to break down. For this reason, you may choose to compost them separately or mix them in with other types, keeping in mind that some will break down faster than others.

Further Information

Leaf Shredding (video)
Leaf Compost (video)
Tip for Bagging Leaves (video)
How to Make Compost For Your Garden (video)
How To Build a Compost Bin (article)
Using Mulch In Your Garden (article)
Allelopathic Plants: Nature’s Weedkillers (Earth Friendly Gardening)

Phosphorus Fertilizer in Your Lawn or Garden

Julie Day — Thu, 29 Oct 2009 17:39:26 +0000

Most fertilizers no longer contain phosphorus.

“Why are many fertilizer bags labeled ‘phosphorus free’? I thought phosphorus was one of the three important nutrients for plants?” -Madison

You’re right that phosphorus is an important nutrient, but fertilizers containing phosphorus are a major source of groundwater contamination. Did you know that phosphate fertilizers:

Run off into streams and lakes to create algae blooms that are toxic to humans and kill fish.
End up in the ocean, where they contribute to oceanic “dead zones.”
The methods to process rock phosphate cause the release of radioactive waste!

Many states now have regulations limiting fertilizers, detergents, and other products made with phosphates in an attempt to control pollution. That’s why the phosphorus number (the middle number) on your fertilizer bag is usually zero. The exception to this is so-called “starter” fertilizer, which contains higher phosphorus levels specifically to help new seeds to sprout.

If you test the soil in your lawn or garden, you’ll probably find you don’t need to add phosphorus, since most soil contains enough naturally.

I use bone meal and/or compost when planting new shrubs.

There are only two times when I want extra phosphorus for my garden:

When planting shrubs and trees, especially if I’m transplanting something with lots of broken roots. Phosphorus helps with root growth and establishment of new plants.
Mixed into the vegetable garden. Phosphorus helps with the production of fruits and vegetables, particularly root crops.

Here are some lawn and garden tips for protecting the environment:

Use compost! Composted fruits and vegetables provide plenty of natural phosphorus for your garden in a slow-release, organic form.
Adding organic matter helps the soil release natural phosphorus to your plants, making it (and other nutrients) more absorbable.
When you need additional phosphorus, use an organic source such as bone meal, soy meal, manure, or bat guano. While rock phosphate is considered an organic source of phosphorus, the radioactive byproducts formed during production can be detrimental to the environment.
Avoid fertilizers, dish detergents, and laundry detergents that contain phosphate. Manufacturers are catching on, and many products are now clearly labeled phosphate-free.
Educate your community about the need for reducing fertilizer runoff.

Always choose phosphate-free products.

Further Information

Use Phosphorus-Free Lawn Fertilizer (EPA)
Phosphorus Pollution (State Environmental Research Center)
Fertilizer and Fertilizer Production Wastes (EPA)

How to Build a Compost Bin

Danny Lipford — Tue, 16 Jun 2009 20:46:55 +0000

Composting lawn and garden waste is a great way to obtain organic material for your garden while reducing the environmentally negative aspects of trucking yard waste to the landfill. This DIY compost bin is easy to build and made from pressure treated wood so it will last for many years to come. It has a removable top along with a hinged door on one end for easy access when filling the bin and removing compost.

While you can make your compost bin any size desired, the one we built was 2’ wide by 3’ long by 30” high. Pressure treated 4” x 4” posts were used for the corners and 5/4” by 6” treated lumber for the sides and top. Be sure to leave gaps between the boards to allow for air to circulate in the bin. Here’s how to go about building a compost bin for your garden.

Tools:

Tape measure and pencil
Square
Safety glasses and ear plugs
Level
Circular saw
Drill/driver (drill and screwdriver bits)
Post hole digger

Materials:

2 – 4” x 4” x 8’ pressure treated pine
9 – 5/4” x 6” x 8’ pressure treated pine
1 – pair hinges
1 – screen door latch or barrel bolt
Corrosion resistant deck screws

Cutting List:

Corner Posts: 2 – 3½” x 3½” x 42”
Top Boards: 4 – 1” x 5½” x 38”
Top Cleats: 2 – 1” x 2” x 22”
Side Boards: 10 – 1” x 5½” x 36”
End Boards: 10 – 1” x 5½” x 24”
Door Cleats: 2 – 1” x 2” x 17½”

Building Note:

Pressure treated wood is often slightly thicker and wider than standard dimension lumber and may require minor adjustments to the lengths on the cutting list.

Building the Compost Bin

Start by cutting the posts square and to length.

Next, cut the side, end, and top boards square and to length.

Attach a side board flush with the end and edges of two of the posts using screws. Check to see that the board is square with the posts.

Position each of the other four side boards, using 5/8” spacer blocks, and attach them to the posts with screws. Repeat this process to assemble the other side.

Dig four holes with a post hole digger for the corner posts.

Set the side units in the holes so the outside of the boards are 2’ apart at each end. Check to be sure the sides are level and plumb, then loosely fill the holes with dirt.

Screw the top end boards to the posts, positioning them flush with the top of the post and aligned with the outside of the sides. Use the spacer blocks to position the remaining boards on the back end of the compost bin, and attach them with screws.

Rip the cleats from a piece of leftover 5/4” lumber and screw three of the end boards together to form the door. Use the spacer blocks to position the boards the correct distance apart.

Attach the hinges to the door and mount the door on the end board of the compost bin. Attach the bottom end board below the door using a screen door latch or barrel bolt to hold it closed. Pack down the dirt in the holes.

Assemble the top of the bin by screwing the top boards to cleats so that the outside boards are spaced 24” apart with an even gap between each of the other boards.

Finally, fill the compost bin with leaves, grass clippings, and other lawn and garden waste. The amount of time it takes to turn the waste into compost will vary depending on the materials used, the outside temperature, and the humidity. To speed up decomposition, turn the pile with a pitch fork from time to time and keep the mix damp by wetting it down if it dries out. Remove the compost from the door on the end of the bin when it is ready.

Further Information

Environmentally Friendly Landscaping for Your Home

Danny Lipford — Wed, 10 Jun 2009 20:31:02 +0000

Eco-friendly aspects of the landscaping for this green home include:

Native Plants: Since they occur naturally in the area, native plants are better suited to the local environment and more resistant to disease. This allows them to require less water, pesticides, and fertilizer.
Permeable Patio: The flagstone patio has a permeable base of reclaimed, crushed concrete to allow it to serve as a natural drainage area for the backyard. Clumps of mondo grass were planted between the stones to further increase absorbency.
Irrigation: The SmartLine irrigation system from Weathermatic employs water saving sprinkler heads and a built-in weather station to monitor the moisture in the air and reduce unnecessary watering.

Caterpillars in the Garden

Julie Day — Wed, 13 May 2009 21:54:36 +0000

“We have an enormous number of caterpillars in our yard this spring. Why is this and how do we control them?” -Brenda

Caterpillars are actually immature moths and butterflies, which go through several stages of development (egg, larva/caterpillar, and pupa) before the winged adults emerge. The larva/caterpillar stage of development isn’t called the “feeding stage” for nothing – these critters are constantly munching on leaves and plants, growing very rapidly before entering the cocoon or pupa stage and transforming into their adult selves.

Not all caterpillars are the same, and not all are considered pests. For instance, one gardener may be battling to save the vegetable garden from the destructive cabbage looper, while another gardener may be planting host plants specifically to attract the larva of monarch butterflies.

Before you do anything about your caterpillars, you should answer a couple of questions:

What kind of caterpillars do you have? Helpful caterpillar identification guides are available from University of Missouri and Virginia Cooperative Extension.
Are they doing any serious damage to your garden?
If not, I would suggest that you let them be. The caterpillars will soon spin their cocoons and settle in for a long metamorphosis, and the temporary invasion is simply part of the natural ecology.
If they are damaging your harvest or seriously injuring ornamental plants, there are a couple of natural options available. You can buy a product called Bacillus thuringiensis (also called BT or sold as Dipel, Thuricide, or Safer Brand Caterpillar Killer). It’s a natural bacteria with a protein that is toxic to caterpillars but does not affect any other insects, animals, or humans. Or, as a biological control, you can release trichogramma wasps, a natural predator that eats over 200 species of caterpillars! They can be ordered from Home Harvest Garden Supply and Orcon.

Recycling Your Christmas Tree

Julie Day — Tue, 30 Dec 2008 20:49:02 +0000

The end of the holiday season doesn’t have to be the end of your holiday decorations. Christmas trees, wreaths, and garland may be a bit dried out, but they can still serve a purpose in the garden. Rather than throwing your holiday decorations in the trash, consider recycling them in the garden and allowing them to return to the earth in a natural way.

Community Tree Recycling

Many communities offer a tree recycling service, picking up discarded trees and grinding them into mulch to be used in public parks and landscapes. Trees are usually dropped off at designated pick-up sites, though some cities may also collect them from the curb. To find out if your community has a program, contact your local agricultural extension agent or community lawn waste collection service.

In addition to mulch, you might be surprised at some of the innovative ways to recycle Christmas trees. Did you know:

The needles of many varieties of Christmas trees contain shikimic acid, an important ingredient in the manufacturing of the antiviral drug Tamiflu.
“Tree fences” made from discarded Christmas trees play a vital role in the protection of beaches and wetlands from erosion and hurricane damage.

Ground-up Christmas trees can actually be used as boiler fuel in manufacturing.
Some communities deposit trees into wildlife reserves, to provide habitat and nesting structures for birds and small animals. These habitats help attract and protect endangered species.
Dropped into lakes and ponds, old Christmas trees make a great habitat for fish, particularly in man-made lakes that may not have natural underwater structures.

Do-It-Yourself Tree Recycling

If your community doesn’t offer recycling, or if you prefer to do your own thing, check out these ideas for recycling Christmas trees and greenery:

Place trees and greenery around your yard to provide shelter for birds and small animals.
Take your wildlife sanctuary a step further by “decorating” your tree with festive outdoor goodies. Sprays of bird seed, strings of popcorn or cranberries, chunks of suet, small water containers, and even birdhouses will be appreciated by the creatures that live in your yard.
Cut the branches into small pieces, then add to your compost pile for use in the spring.

Once the greenery has dried, brush off the needles and use them to make potpourri. Mix with cinnamon sticks, whole cloves, nutmeg, dried flowers, and dried fruit for an aromatic and colorful winter treat.
Use the wood from the branches and trunks. Long branches make great support stakes, and now is a good time to make sure plants are staked to protect them from winter storms. Larger branches and trunks can be used to make rustic fences, arbors, or garden crafts.
Evergreens can make great kindling and fuel for bonfires, and many revelers enjoy this on new Year’s Eve. Keep in mind that evergreens should never be burned in an indoor fireplace due to their extreme flammability and high sap content which can cause a buildup of dangerous creosote in chimneys. Decorated, artificial, or flocked trees and greenery should not be burned.

Deck the Garden with Boughs

Even if you don’t have a wood chipper, you can use your Christmas greenery as winter mulch in the garden, by simply laying the boughs over tender plants. The evergreen boughs will help protect the plants from drying winds and sun, while allowing for water drainage. Boughs also help to hold the soil in place on slopes. While most plants will do fine with a standard layer of 3”- 4” of organic mulch in the fall, a few plants might benefit from an extra winter application of mulch, such as:

Tender small shrubs.
Evergreen perennials.
Bulbs and tender perennials that have begun to sprout prematurely due to a warm spell.
Newly planted seedlings or plants that may not have time to establish roots before freezing weather.
Plants that are only marginally hardy in your zone.

Since the best time to apply extra mulch is after the ground freezes, holiday greenery is a timely solution. The late mulch application keeps plants dormant and helps to prevent frost heaving and damage due to late winter thaws.

Keep in mind some of the challenges of evergreen bough mulch:

Woodland creatures love to burrow into evergreen branches, and they may also decide to feast on your plants. If you have a rodent problem in your garden, this method may not be best for you.
The boughs create a pocket of insulated air around the plant. Once the weather warms, this pocket can breed mold and fungus – be sure to remove the mulch as soon as freezing weather is over in the spring.
Be kind to wildlife by removing all tinsel and wire ornament hangers before putting trees outdoors.

Further Information

How to Make Compost for Your Garden

Danny Lipford — Mon, 15 Sep 2008 14:34:48 +0000

Adding compost to your soil is one of the best ways to improve your garden. Make a compost pile from a mixture of organic matter—such as leaves, grass clippings, vegetable scraps, eggshells, and coffee grounds. Turn the pile once a week with a pitchfork to introduce oxygen, and keep it covered with plastic to hold in moisture and heat. Adding red worms to the pile will speed up the process, since they digest and process their body weight in organic matter every day.

How to Build a Compost Bin

How to Control Fleas in Your Yard

Julie Day — Thu, 04 Sep 2008 15:38:49 +0000

What is the best way to get rid of fleas in your backyard? -Ray

Considering their four-stage life cycle and the fact that one flea can produce a trillion offspring in less than a year, getting rid of a flea infestation can be quite a challenge! In the lawn and garden (and even indoors), one suggestion is pennyroyal– grow the mint-like plants for a natural flea repellent, or mist areas with a few drops of essential oil in water.

Another natural solution is diatomaceous earth. Available at your local garden center, this fine powder contains the microskeletons of fresh and saltwater diatoms (a form of algae). The tiny, sharp silicon particles destroy the exoskeletons of insects, including fleas. Be sure to buy garden-grade, rather than crystallized pool-grade, to reduce the potential health risks from inhalation. Wear an appropriate dusk mask when sprinkling it around your yard, and keep pets indoors until the powder has settled.

There is also a large selection of commercial insecticides on the market for lawn use. If you decide to go that route, be sure the product contains an Insect Growth Regulator, which will make any surviving fleas sterile.

With any repellent or insecticide product, whether natural or chemical, keep in mind that it will affect beneficial insects as well as pests – there is no way to target just fleas.

Mosquito Repellent for Your Yard

Composting with Worms

Allen Lyle — Thu, 04 Sep 2008 13:45:22 +0000

Can you believe we’re starting the 11th season of Today’s Homeowner? I’ll try to keep everyone in the loop about some of the behind-the-scenes happenings as well as some additional tips and tricks along the way. Road trips are always chock full of stories, too, so stay tuned for the inside scoop.

The big news as we kick off the first show of the season is…I’ve got worms! A new feature in the show is our Thinking Green, and the first topic is about composting. Now, keep in mind, I’m a southern Alabama boy who thinks the only good use for a worm is bait. I live on the water and can walk out and snag a decent sized bream and fry it up for one of the best-tasting meals on the planet. But, I have to admit, I did a lot of researching on the web about composting, and every place I turned mentioned the benefit of including red worms in your compost pile.

Well, just reading it didn’t convince me, so I ordered some worms on the Internet at a place called Uncle Jim’s Worm Farm (oh yeah, you heard me….I ordered worms). We used a few for Danny’s on-camera and I put the rest to the test. I actually have them in a 5-gallon bucket and started adding dead leaves, grass clippings, egg shells (I make some really great deviled eggs!), the remnants of my tomato plants, even the pulp of apples and carrots after I juiced them. I’m here to testify to you, those worms are amazing! They definitely speed up the process, and the worms must be pretty happy about it, too, because they’re multiplying.

Remind me next week to tell you about Danny’s adventure with juicing celery. I’d love to hear from you if you have a question or comment about anything you see on the show. Be sure to keep tabs on my blog. I’ll let you know when and where we’ll be as we tape across the country.

How to Mulch with Grass Clippings

The Debate over Organic vs. Chemical Fertilizers

Julie Day — Fri, 29 Aug 2008 19:33:38 +0000

Ask most any gardener whether they prefer organic or chemical fertilizer, and chances are you’ll spark a lively debate. However, if you could ask your plants the same question, you’d find out that at the most basic level, they really can’t tell the difference – nutrients are nutrients.

Yet there ARE significant differences between organic and chemical fertilizers in terms of nutrient availability and the long-term effects on soil, plants, and the environment. So how does a conscientious gardener decide?

Terminology

To begin with, the terminology can be confusing, since labels and gardeners freely throw around words like organic, natural, inorganic, chemical, synthetic, artificial, and manufactured. The good news is that the choice can be reduced to either organic or chemical fertilizers.

Organic Fertilizer

The words “organic” or “natural” in this case simply means that the product is only minimally processed, and the nutrients remain bound up in their natural forms, rather than being extracted and refined. In the case of fertilizer, “organic” does NOT refer to the standards of processing associated with food.

Organic fertilizer is usually made from plant or animal waste or powdered minerals. Examples include manure and compost, as well as bone and cottonseed meal. They are usually sold as “soil conditioners” rather than as fertilizer, because the nutrient ratios are difficult to guarantee. Organic fertilizers may be processed in a factory, or, in the case of manure and compost, at a farm.

There is also a growing selection of more highly processed products now available, with labeled analysis of nutrients and contents. For example, ScottsMiracle Gro Organic Choice Plant Food is a manufactured product composed entirely of chicken litter and ground up feathers, with an N-P-K ratio of 7-1-2. Garden Safe Organic Plant Food is made of poultry manure with a label very similar to chemical fertilizers.

Advantages of Organic Fertilizer:

In addition to releasing nutrients, as organic fertilizers break down, they improve the structure of the soil and increase its ability to hold water and nutrients. Over time, organic fertilizers will make your soil–and plants–healthy and strong.
Since they are the ultimate slow-release fertilizers, it’s very difficult to over fertilize (and harm) your plants.
There’s little to no risk of toxic buildups of chemicals and salts that can be deadly to plants.
Organic fertilizers are renewable, biodegradable, sustainable, and environmentally friendly.
Although rather expensive in packages, you can make your own organic fertilizer by composting or find inexpensive sources—such as local dairy farms—that may sell composted manure.

Disadvantages of Organic Fertilizer:

Microorganisms are required to break down and release nutrients into the soil. Since they need warmth and moisture to do their job, the effectiveness of organic fertilizer is limited seasonally. The good news is that these microorganisms obtain energy from decaying plant and animal matter, so an application of organic fertilizer provides a complete package of nutrients for your soil.
Organic fertilizers break down according to nature’s rules, so they may not release nutrients as soon as you need them. You have to be patient – you won’t see improvement overnight. In fact, you may actually see a deficiency in your plants during the first couple of months until the first application breaks down. Hang in there! You’ll most definitely be rewarded.
Nutrient ratios are often unknown, and the overall percentage is lower than chemical fertilizers. However, some organic products are actually higher in certain nutrients.

Chemical Fertilizers

Chemical fertilizers (also called inorganic, synthetic, artificial, or manufactured) have been refined to extract nutrients and bind them in specific ratios with other chemical fillers. These products may be made from petroleum products, rocks, or even organic sources. Some of the chemicals may be naturally occurring, but the difference is that the nutrients in chemical fertilizers are refined to their pure state and stripped of substances that control their availability and breakdown, which rarely occurs in nature.

Advantages of Chemical Fertilizer:

Since nutrients are available to the plants immediately, improvement occurs in days.
They are highly analyzed to produce the exact ratio of nutrients desired.
Standardized labeling makes ratios and chemical sources easy to understand.
They’re inexpensive.

Disadvantages of Chemical Fertilizer:

Chemical fertilizers are primarily made from nonrenewable sources, including fossil fuels.
They grow plants but do nothing to sustain the soil. The fillers do not promote life or soil health, and even packages labeled “complete” do not include the decaying matter necessary to improve soil structure. In fact, chemical fertilizers don’t replace many trace elements that are gradually depleted by repeated crop plantings, resulting in long-term damage to the soil.
Because the nutrients are readily available, there is a danger of over fertilization. This not only can kill plants but upset the entire ecosystem.
Chemical fertilizers tend to leach, or filter away from the plants, requiring additional applications.
Repeated applications may result in a toxic buildup of chemicals such as arsenic, cadmium, and uranium in the soil. These toxic chemicals can eventually make their way into your fruits and vegetables.
Long-term use of chemical fertilizer can change the soil pH, upset beneficial microbial ecosystems, increase pests, and even contribute to the release of greenhouse gases.

Making a Choice

If you wish to live in harmony with nature and make a lasting improvement in your own patch of earth for generations to come, organic fertilizers outweigh chemicals by leaps and bounds. Can a shot of chemical fertilizer make your containers spill over with blossoms, and give you the biggest tomatoes and greenest lawn in the neighborhood? Absolutely. Just be sure you understand what’s really happening to the earth under your feet, so that you’ll make your choice consciously.