If you’re trimming heavy tree limbs, you have to be extra careful not to damage the bark or interfere with the tree’s natural healing response. Doing it right is actually no more difficult than doing it wrong, particularly if you think ahead to how much work it would take to remove a dead tree!

Here’s how to cut large tree limbs in your yard in three simple steps.

Poorly healed wound due to an improper pruning cut.

How Trees Heal

The truth is, trees don’t actually heal like we do. When you cut off a tree branch, the tree forms a special callous tissue (like a scar) that covers over the wound to keep out disease and decay. That scarred part of the tree will be there forever, sealed off so that the rest of the tree can keep growing. It’s very important to prune trees correctly so that we don’t interfere with this process – incorrect pruning will leave the tree weak and vulnerable to disease.

In the top photo, you can see the evidence of several large pruning cuts. The bumps show well healed pruning scars, most of them completely covered over. The “donut” shaped scar is normal, too. The callous tissue grows from the outside edges toward the center, so it’s still in the process of sealing over.

Take the time to do it right.

How to Cut a Tree Limb

Proper pruning of large tree limbs involves three cuts:

• Cut #1, Notch Cut: Cut a small notch in the bottom of the limb, 2-3 feet away from the trunk, and about a quarter of the way through. This notch will keep the bark from splitting when you make the next cut.
• Cut #2, Relief Cut: Just outside the notch, make a relief cut completely through the branch. This removes the weight of the branch, so that you can make your final cut without the branch splitting and falling.
• Cut #3, Final Cut: This is the one that matters! Your final cut should be right where the branch collar (that swollen bump) transitions to smooth branch bark. Follow the slant of the branch collar. If you can’t fit your saw into the crotch at the right angle, then cut it from the bottom up.

Common Tree Trimming Mistakes

• Cutting the Branch Too Short: We used to think that branches should be cut off flush with the trunk – boy, were we ever wrong! The branch collar is responsible for forming the scar tissue. If you cut into the branch collar, the tree will have a very hard time recovering. When you see rotten holes in tree trunks, or seeping wounds, you’re looking at the aftermath of cutting off the branch collar.



• Leaving the Branch Too Long: The branch collar on the truck can only do its job of allowing the wound to heal if all of the branch that it has to cover over has been removed while leaving the branch collar itself intact. In the photo on the right, you can see how the branch stubs that were left too long are interfering with and actually preventing the healing process from taking place.



• Failure to Make the Relief Cuts: If you fail to make the relief cuts and remove most of the weight of the limb before trimming the branch back to the trunk, you run the risk of having the branch split off. This can cause substantial damage to the trunk, as seen in the photo at right. This can make the wound on the trunk susceptible to disease and insect infestation and take much longer to heal.

Further Information

• Trimming Limbs (Video)
• Treating Cut Tree Limbs With Wound Paint
• When To Trim Trees and Shrubs
• Basic Shrub Pruning Techniques
• How To Prune Trees (USDA Forest Service)
• The Kindest Cuts: Where and How To Prune (Brooklyn Botanic Garden)

Related posts:

• Treating Cut Tree Limbs with Wound Paint
• When to Trim Trees and Shrubs
• Sidewalk Damaged by Tree Roots

There are two types of weed barriers that you can install in your garden to prevent any unwanted plant growth: plastic and fabric.

• Plastic weed barriers: Since they’re resistant to water, plastic barriers need to have holes cut in them to allow water to permeate.
• Fabric weed barriers: Will allow water through while blocking the sun from promoting weeds from sprouting up.

To find out more, read our article on How to Install Landscape Fabric and Plastic.

Related posts:

• How to Kill Weeds in a Gravel Driveway
• Creating a Path in Your Lawn or Garden
• Applying ‘Weed and Feed’ Products to St. Augustine Grass

Wound paints and dressings claim to prevent rot and help trees heal from pruning wounds, but research suggests that they actually do more harm than good. When you cut off a tree limb, or the bark gets damaged, the tree never actually “heals.” Instead, it compartmentalizes the wounded area with a special type of calloused wood – like a scar – that keeps out bacteria and helps the rest of the tree recover.

Painting wound with wound paint or dressing can:

• Prevent the tree from forming calloused wood, which can keep the tree weaker.
• Seal in water, bacteria, fungi, and decay.
• Attract disease causing organisms that feed on the wound paint.
• Interfere with a natural recovery process that nature has taken eons to perfect!

To help keep your trees healthy when pruning:

• Prune in late winter while trees are dormant.
• Sterilize pruning shears and saws between cuts with rubbing alcohol or hydrogen peroxide.
• Target specific risks by treating wounds with an organic fungicide or insecticide.
• Make careful, clean pruning cuts just outside the branch collar, where the tree can most quickly heal.

There are a few devastating diseases, such as oak wilt, that are introduced through insects feeding off pruning cuts, then spread from tree to tree via the roots. Wound paint can reduce (but not eliminate) the risk of these infections, so some tree experts feel that the downside of wound paint is better than the risk of spreading this disease throughout a neighborhood.

Check to see if diseases are a problem in your area. If they are, follow the guidelines from your local extension service regarding the use of wound paint when pruning. In general, however, only use wound paint when absolutely necessary to prevent specific diseases.

Further Information

• The Myth of Wound Dressings (Washington State University)
• Should I Paint or Otherwise Treat Pruning Cuts? (extension.org)
• Wound Dressings (Shigo and Shortle, Journal of Arboriculture, 1983)
• Proper Pruning to Prevent Oak Wilt Infection (Texas Forest Service)
• When to Trim Trees and Shrubs

Related posts:

• How To Trim Large Tree Branches
• Sidewalk Damaged by Tree Roots
• How to Select the Right Tree for Your Yard

The most common questions I’m asked have to do with pruning – or, as we say around here, “Can I just whack it, or what?” No matter the season, everybody wants to know if (and how) they should cut back overgrown plants. And who can blame them? What’s more satisfying than physically taming a wasteland, stepping back from a perfectly-shaped behemoth, surveying a mountain of conquered brush and vines, and wiping a forehead laced with scratches?

I always feel like such a party pooper when I offer all of my standard cautions – “If you cut that now, you’ll cut off next spring’s flowers . . . you’ll invite disease . . . you’ll cause a flush of growth that will be killed by the cold . . . .” It seems like I’m always advising against cutting plants back.

Well, here we are in late winter, and for once in the year, when asked if it’s a good time to prune, the answer is “Yes!” For many shrubs and trees, late winter/early spring is a great time to do large-scale pruning and rejuvenating. The bare branches will be easier to see, wounds will heal with less risk of disease, and plants won’t respond with the same crazy flush of growth that they would have during the growing season. It isn’t perfect for every plant of course, but if you’re only going to prune once a year, now’s a good time.

Poor spindly thing!

Taking advantage of the season and a rare warm day, I headed outdoors with my pruning shears in the hopes of cutting back my Lady Banks’ rose. What I found were the startling consequences of not practicing what I preach! You see, my Lady Banks’ rose grows faster than kudzu, and all last summer and fall I was constantly (against my own better judgment) cutting back the large branches that threatened to overtake the side entrance of my house. I knew I shouldn’t be pruning so late in the season, but I did it anyway – my house has been on the market, and I was willing to take risks in order to keep things looking neat.

What I found, here in late winter, was that my rose was covered in tender, shriveled dead growth. In response to pruning last fall, the plant had sent out a flush of very soft tendrils, and the freezing winter weather zapped them dead. To make things worse, the damage wasn’t just to the new growth – the entire plant was stressed. In fact, as I was working on the plant, almost every leaf fell off, leaving a very naked, cold-looking vine against my porch column. I very sadly did a much larger pruning than I had intended, to try to encourage the plant to start afresh in spring, then I swept up all those fallen leaves and entertained both the chagrin of disobeying my own advice and the satisfaction that my advice had indeed been correct!

If I had to learn this lesson, I’m glad I learned it with Lady Banks, because I think she has a good chance of a spring recovery. I have, however, filed this away in my brain under the category of “Lessons Learned From Mistakes,” because those are the lessons that stick the best. This year I’ll keep my pruning shears under control!

Further Information

• When To Trim Trees and Shrubs
• Basic Shrub Pruning Techniques

Related posts:

• Lady Banks Rose Update
• Growing a Lady Banks Rose
• Can I Plant Trees and Shrubs in Late Fall or Winter?

Given the pattern, I really should have been prepared for anything from earthquakes to temporary paralysis. Nevertheless, I was rendered nearly speechless when I crawled under the Christmas tree to add water, and I found the floor underneath the tree littered with what appeared to be ticks. There were dozens of them. Meandering around, looking bewildered and hungry, slowly spreading out across the living room. Ticks . . . you gotta be kidding me!

I wish I had a photo to show you, but frankly I pulled out the vacuum cleaner faster than Wyatt Earp at the OK Corral. And then I reached for the tick spray and gave that tree the dose of a lifetime. In a couple of days, my house would be full-to-bursting with houseguests, and my organic sensibilities were overrun by the fear of spreading a little Lyme Disease with my Christmas cheer!

The next day—after one more pass with the vacuum—the problem seemed to be under control, but it was quite a while before I found the time to face (and to learn about) what had happened. I’d never heard of ticks being in a Christmas tree, but, as my life has proved over and over, anything’s possible.

Meet the Cinara Aphid

Before you become infected with my panic and throw your Christmas tree on the curb, I’d better hurry up and clue you in on the punch line – it turns out they weren’t ticks at all. In fact:

• Ticks don’t live in trees, and they don’t lay eggs in trees. They dehydrate too easily, so they stay closer to the moist ground. They aren’t found in Christmas trees, period.
• Ticks need live animal hosts, so it would be impossible for them to multiply and infest a tree without a food source. It doesn’t fit with their life cycle or habitat.
• Ticks spread by clinging to and falling off hosts – they don’t swarm or form colonies.

While tree growers look for infestation, it can be difficult to spot on a large farm.

So what CAN multiply and infest a tree? Cinara aphids, also known as Conifer aphids, that’s what. Here are a few facts about the little critters:

• They’re harmless. That’s right, harmless. They feed on trees, not animals, and they don’t bite or carry diseases. For us humans, they’re nothing more than a nuisance.
• As I can testify, they look almost exactly like ticks, with their brownish-black, flat, round bodies and short legs. The dead giveaway, though, is that Cinara aphids have only six legs, while ticks have eight. You can see what they look like at BugGuide.net.
• They even leave a purple-red smear when you smush them (believe me, I smushed plenty of them).
• They feed on trees and infest pines, firs, and other conifers, making Christmas trees vulnerable.
• They can infest only one tree in a large area, so the tree grower may not know about them.

Aphids are no match for the vacuum – just be sure to throw away the bag.

What If My Tree Has Aphids?

If you’re like me and unknowingly bought a Christmas tree infested with aphids, not to worry! It really isn’t that difficult to deal with them. Try these tips:

• Shake your tree before bringing it inside, to dislodge as many as possible. You can also rinse your tree with mild soapy water and allow it to dry outdoors. Aphids are soft-bodied insects that are easily washed away.
• If your tree is badly infested, don’t be afraid to take it back to the tree lot. The grower should identify and understand aphid infestation and exchange it for a healthy tree.
• Inspect trees before you buy them. Look along the tips of branches and also deep within the tree – the aphids move to more protected branches as the weather gets colder.
• Vacuum up any critters that make it onto your floor. I only found them right under the tree – they didn’t travel far, and most of them were dead or barely moving. They really were easy to control – my only panic was because I thought they were ticks!
• Don’t squish them – they’ll stain your carpet or floors.
• You can treat your tree using a room fogger or insecticidal soap, if you wish.

Further Information

• Cinara Aphids on Christmas Trees in North Carolina (NC State University)
• Rogues’ Gallery of Post-Harvest Pests (NC State University)
• Pests on Christmas Trees (NC Christmas Tree Association, PDF 144kb)
• Insect Pests on Christmas Trees (Iowa State University)
• Buy a Real Christmas Tree! (University of Florida)
• How to Select and Care For a Live Christmas Tree
• Christmas Tree FAQ

In most cases, snow is nothing to fear in the garden – it’s a great insulator, and it melts to provide much needed water to dry plants in the winter. However, heavy snow and ice buildup can cause devastating damage in the garden if limbs and trunks bend or break. Here’s what you need to know about dealing with snow and ice in the yard and garden.

The bent limbs on these Leyland cypress may recover in spring.

Should You Remove Snow and Ice?

• Natural Snow Cover: Even if it’s deep, a blanket or windblown drift of snow is nothing to worry about – in fact, it acts as an extra layer of insulating mulch!


Snowplows can damage plants.

• Manmade Snow Cover: Most snow damage is caused by humans using snowplows, shovels, and snowblowers. Pushed or mechanically blown snow is dense and slow to melt, and it can break a strong shrub right in two. Be careful not to pile snow on your plants by mechanical means as it will then need to be removed and might do damage you can’t prevent.
• Bent Branches: Tender branches (particularly conifers) may become broken or weighed down with heavy snow and can a hard time springing back into shape. The fallen snow can also melt and refreeze to form devastating ice.
• Snow from Roofs: Remove snow from roofs (if you can safely), and remove the piles of snow that may cascade down onto your shrubs from the roof above. If your shrubs are right in the danger zone under a steep roof, you may want to protect them with a temporary wooden frame.

Sweep gently upwards to dislodge snow from shrubs and other plants.

How to Remove Snow from Shrubs and Plants

• Sweep Gently: Using a broom or your hands, GENTLY sweep in an upward motion, loosening the snow and allowing it to fall. Don’t sweep downward, as you might break an already bent branch, and don’t shake the plant. The branches will be very brittle and already stressed, so disturb them as little as possible.
• Avoid Accumulation: You’ll have much less damage to your plants if you remove snow after every couple of inches of accumulation, rather than waiting until it’s deep.
• Leave Ice Alone: Don’t try to remove ice, as the branch will likely break. Once ice has formed, you really should just wait it out.

• Be Safe: Never try to remove snow or ice from overhead branches! There’s a high risk of breakage, and you don’t want heavy limbs falling on you, your house, or your car!

Don’t try to remove ice from plants as it can cause more damage.

How to Prevent Damage to Plants

• Tie Up Plants: Before the snow, use plant netting to tie up the branches of your conifers and soft shrubs, to prevent them from being misshapen or broken by snow. Tie them in a cone shape, to deflect snow off to the sides.
• Move Containers: Put planters and containers under a shed or porch during snow and ice storms to keep freezing water from expanding and breaking containers.
• Keep Off Grass: Snow covered grass is fragile, easily uprooted, and susceptible to fungal diseases under the snow. Reducing foot traffic will help the snow stay light and melt faster, and it will keep your grass blades firmly rooted.


Frozen container plant.

• Avoid Salt: Salt can damage lawns and plants when it runs off your driveway. If your plants have been exposed to salt, water and rinse them well as soon as temperatures are above freezing. Next time, use sand or clay-based kitty litter instead of salt.
• Prune Damaged Limbs: Head outdoors as soon as the ice melts to assess damage. Cracked branches can sometimes heal if they’re firmly tied back in place. Broken branches should be pruned away immediately to prevent injury and disease. Ragged tears are very susceptible to infection, so remove damaged wood using clean cuts.
• Wait for Spring: The extent of the damage often won’t be clear until spring, when you find out if your plant will be able to spring back into shape. Wait for spring to do any staking or reshaping of bent plants, since winter branches are extremely brittle. In the spring they’ll be much more supple.

Further Information

• How to Protect Your Garden from Frost and Freeze
• When to Water Plants Before a Freeze

Related posts:

• Fall Yard and Garden Maintenance
• January Lawn & Garden To-Do List
• When to Trim Trees and Shrubs

The end of the holiday season doesn’t have to be the end of your holiday decorations. Christmas trees, wreaths, and garland may be a bit dried out, but they can still serve a purpose in the garden. Rather than throwing your holiday decorations in the trash, consider recycling them in the garden and allowing them to return to the earth in a natural way.

Community Tree Recycling

Many communities offer a tree recycling service, picking up discarded trees and grinding them into mulch to be used in public parks and landscapes. Trees are usually dropped off at designated pick-up sites, though some cities may also collect them from the curb. To find out if your community has a program, contact your local agricultural extension agent or community lawn waste collection service.

In addition to mulch, you might be surprised at some of the innovative ways to recycle Christmas trees. Did you know:

• The needles of many varieties of Christmas trees contain shikimic acid, an important ingredient in the manufacturing of the antiviral drug Tamiflu.
• “Tree fences” made from discarded Christmas trees play a vital role in the protection of beaches and wetlands from erosion and hurricane damage.



• Ground-up Christmas trees can actually be used as boiler fuel in manufacturing.
• Some communities deposit trees into wildlife reserves, to provide habitat and nesting structures for birds and small animals. These habitats help attract and protect endangered species.
• Dropped into lakes and ponds, old Christmas trees make a great habitat for fish, particularly in man-made lakes that may not have natural underwater structures.

Do-It-Yourself Tree Recycling

If your community doesn’t offer recycling, or if you prefer to do your own thing, check out these ideas for recycling Christmas trees and greenery:

• Place trees and greenery around your yard to provide shelter for birds and small animals.
• Take your wildlife sanctuary a step further by “decorating” your tree with festive outdoor goodies. Sprays of bird seed, strings of popcorn or cranberries, chunks of suet, small water containers, and even birdhouses will be appreciated by the creatures that live in your yard.
• Cut the branches into small pieces, then add to your compost pile for use in the spring.

• Once the greenery has dried, brush off the needles and use them to make potpourri. Mix with cinnamon sticks, whole cloves, nutmeg, dried flowers, and dried fruit for an aromatic and colorful winter treat.
• Use the wood from the branches and trunks. Long branches make great support stakes, and now is a good time to make sure plants are staked to protect them from winter storms. Larger branches and trunks can be used to make rustic fences, arbors, or garden crafts.
• Evergreens can make great kindling and fuel for bonfires, and many revelers enjoy this on new Year’s Eve. Keep in mind that evergreens should never be burned in an indoor fireplace due to their extreme flammability and high sap content which can cause a buildup of dangerous creosote in chimneys. Decorated, artificial, or flocked trees and greenery should not be burned.

Deck the Garden with Boughs

Even if you don’t have a wood chipper, you can use your Christmas greenery as winter mulch in the garden, by simply laying the boughs over tender plants. The evergreen boughs will help protect the plants from drying winds and sun, while allowing for water drainage. Boughs also help to hold the soil in place on slopes. While most plants will do fine with a standard layer of 3”- 4” of organic mulch in the fall, a few plants might benefit from an extra winter application of mulch, such as:

• Tender small shrubs.
• Evergreen perennials.
• Bulbs and tender perennials that have begun to sprout prematurely due to a warm spell.
• Newly planted seedlings or plants that may not have time to establish roots before freezing weather.
• Plants that are only marginally hardy in your zone.

Since the best time to apply extra mulch is after the ground freezes, holiday greenery is a timely solution. The late mulch application keeps plants dormant and helps to prevent frost heaving and damage due to late winter thaws.

Keep in mind some of the challenges of evergreen bough mulch:

• Woodland creatures love to burrow into evergreen branches, and they may also decide to feast on your plants. If you have a rodent problem in your garden, this method may not be best for you.
• The boughs create a pocket of insulated air around the plant. Once the weather warms, this pocket can breed mold and fungus – be sure to remove the mulch as soon as freezing weather is over in the spring.
• Be kind to wildlife by removing all tinsel and wire ornament hangers before putting trees outdoors.

Further Information

• Used Christmas Trees Provide Key Tamiflu Ingredient (Desert News)
• Treecycling Zip Code Finder (earth911.com)
• Recycle Christmas Trees (National Christmas Tree Association)

Related posts:

• Christmas Tree FAQ
• How to Select and Care for a Live Christmas Tree
• How to Recycle Leaves in Your Yard

Green is one of the traditional colors of the Christmas season, but the green we have in mind is the environmentally friendly kind. Here’s a list of some eco-friendly, energy saving tips that will put you at the top of Santa’s nice list this holiday season.

1. Use LED Lights

These small Light Emitting Diodes use 80% less energy and last 10 times longer than incandescent bulbs, plus they’re cool to the touch. Look for the Energy Star seal for ones with the highest energy efficiency rating.

2. Limit Lighting

Turn Christmas trees on only when you’re in the room to enjoy them. Turn outside decorations off before you go to bed at night, or put them on a timer that will remember to do it for you.

3. Send E-Cards

Replace snail mail cards and letters with e-cards and e-mails to save paper and mailing expense. It also will reduce your carbon footprint since it eliminates the fuel used for transporting standard mail.

4. Shop Online

Rather than burning gas driving around searching for that perfect Christmas present, shop online instead. Having your gifts shipped directly to out of town recipients saves even more energy by minimizing transportation costs.

5. Give Green Gifts

Consider giving eco-friendly or homemade gifts to those on your shopping list. Purchased green presents include:

• Energy saving items
• Books on green living
• Bicycles
• Mass transit passes
• Gift certificates to health food stores or organic restaurants
• Membership in an organic farm or co-op
• Donations to organizations that support the environment

Homemade presents include:

• Baked goods and other food items
• Paintings and photographs
• Pottery and ceramics
• Sewing and knitting
• Handmade ornaments
• Woodworking projects

6. Eco-Friendly Gift Wrapping

Here are some ways to reduce the waste from gift wrapping:

• Buy gift wrap made from recycled materials.
• Make your own gift wrap from cloth and other materials.
• Save wrapping paper from gifts you receive to use next year.
• Reuse boxes for shipping and gifts, rather than buying new ones.
• Recycle wrapping paper (if allowed by your recycling service) and boxes rather than throwing them away.

7. Green Christmas Tree

Visit a local Christmas tree farm and cut down your own tree. Not only is it a fun family activity, but it eliminates the transportation required for shipped trees. Try to find an organic tree farm that is pesticide free to reduce the toxins in your home.

An even greener option is to buy a live Christmas tree then plant it in your yard after the holidays are over.

8. Make Natural Decorations

Rather than buying plastic ornaments, wreaths, and decorations shipped from overseas, make your own from pine cones, holly, seashells, river stones, and evergreen branches. Christmas tree lots often will give away branches they’ve trimmed off the bottom of trees.

9. Recycle Decorations

After the holidays, but sure to recyle your Christmas tree and other natural decorations rather than sending them to the landfill.

10. Reduce Travel

Between shopping, trips to visit relatives, and the flurry of parties and other activities, the holiday season often involves a lot of travel, which in turn adds more pollutants to the atmosphere. Every gallon of gasoline used by your car releases 19.4 pounds of CO2, and air travel is equally bad. So if you really want to go green, consider limiting your travel plans this year.

11. Save Energy

While saving energy is a good idea anytime of year, it’s especially important to address during the holidays with a long winter ahead. Here are some ways to reduce your energy bills while helping the environment at the same time:

• Fireplace: While Christmas is all about sipping eggnog while gathered around a fire, your fireplace may actually draw more heat out of your house than it produces, not to mention the pollution released by the smoke. So consider limiting your fireplace use this year, and be sure to close the damper once the fire is completely out.
• Thermostat: Turn down your thermostat when you’re asleep or not at home, or install a programmable thermostat to do it for you.
• Lighting: Replace incandescent light bulbs with compact fluorescents (CFLs) to reduce your lighting bill by 75%.
• Insulation: Adding insulation to your attic is the best way to reduce your heating and air conditioning bills. Depending on the R-value of your insulation and where you live, you should have 12”-15” or more of insulation in your attic.

Further Information

• Green Holiday Tips (Sierra Club)
• Local Harvest (over 600 tree farms searchable by zip code)
• Carbon Footprint Calculator (TerraPass)

Related posts:

• How to Keep Pets Safe at Christmas
• (709) Cheap Green:
  Eco-Friendly Living for Less
• Christmas Tree FAQ

This is my first Christmas tree in a while – I gave up a few years ago, after my 14-pound cat sent the tree crashing to the floor at two in the morning. My tree is now sprinkled with glued together ornaments from that noisy night, and one ear is always perked for the telltale rustle of catastrophe.

If you have pets, you’ve likely had similar disasters, and perhaps you’ve had to invent some pet-friendly Christmas traditions – like my mother, for instance, who decorates the bottom of her Christmas tree with bells. It’s a tradition left over from our family’s old springer spaniel, Charlie, who thought stealing tree ornaments was the game of the century. The bells didn’t keep him away, but they certainly alerted the humans that mischief was afoot!

But can you really blame our furry friends? All those climbable branches, swattable glittery baubles, and scented chewable branches are just too much to resist! Not to mention the wonderfully crackly ribbons and wrapping paper, just begging to be ripped open before Christmas. It’s a wonder cats and dogs can contain themselves at all!

This was taken the year my cat, Houdini, toppled the tree – I should have known!

Take the “Ir” out of Irresistible

Many an animal lover has given up on Christmas trees until their pets grow out of their curiosity, but there are some things you can try that can discourage your pets, such as:

• Scented Repellents: Before decorating your tree, spray it with a scent or flavor that is repellent to pets. Examples include bitter apple, clove oil, citrus oil, and vinegar – experiment to see what your pet hates (just make sure you don’t hate it too!). You can also sprinkle dried orange peels around the base of your tree. Avoid hot pepper – it can get into your pet’s eyes and cause severe pain. You may need to reapply the repellents as they wear off, just don’t spray anything wet onto your lights, or you might have more twinkle than you hoped for!
• Paw Repellents: Surround the base of your tree with something your pets don’t like to walk on. Aluminum foil is a classic cat-repellent (they usually hate to walk on crackly things), and you can also purchase spiky mats that are unpleasant to animal paws. This is a good way to recycle those plastic mats that go under office chairs – turn them spiky-side-up and hide them under your tree skirt.
• Climb Blockers: Attach dark mesh or plant netting on the underside of your tree to keep your pets from climbing into the branches. You can also use netting to protect wrapped gifts or the tree itself when you’re away. To discourage climbing and scratching, wrap the base of your tree in double sided tape or Sticky Paws.
• Training Sessions: With some diligence, you can train your pet to stay away from the tree. For safety’s sake, stay away from squirt guns, but you can try clickers, compressed air, or noisemakers to discourage unwanted behavior.
• Go High Tech: If all else fails, try a gadget such as Scccat, a motion-activated repellent that uses compressed air to train your pet to stay away.

Experiment with different repellent flavors and scents.

Tips for a Pet Safe Christmas Tree

Aside from keeping your pets in another room, there is no surefire way to keep them away from Christmas trees. Be sure to keep your pets as safe as possible by following these tips:

• Tuck lights and cords deep within the tree – make sure there are no electrical wires dangling temptingly from the branches. Also tape down any cords running across the floor.
• Use the bottom third of your tree for sturdy, shatterproof ornaments (and bells!) that won’t hurt your pet if they do pull them off.
• Don’t use additives in your tree water. You don’t need them anyway, and your pets may drink the water.
• Use fishing line to tie your tree to the wall so that it won’t topple over.
• Make the tree inaccessible to pets when you’re not home to supervise. Close doors or use door gates to keep them away from danger. It’s up to you to intervene if your pet gets curious!

Keep pets from eating decorations, even if they’re considered nonpoisonous.

Keep these decorations away from pets:

• Tinsel, Angel Hair, and Ribbon: These items can pose choking and strangling hazards for your pets.
• Plants and Floral Arrangements: Poinsettias, hollies, and mistletoe can cause gastrointestinal upset and illness. Lilies can be deadly if eaten. Even so-called “nontoxic” plants can upset your pet’s tummy, and floral arrangements may be sprayed with preservatives.
• Potpourri, Scented Oils, and Candles: can be harmful if ingested and dangerous if spilled.
• Candy and Human Treats: Common ingredients such as chocolate, raisins, alcohol, and xylitol can be toxic to dogs and cats, not to mention the hazards of candy wrappers!
• Snow Globes: Imported snow globes may contain highly poisonous antifreeze (ethylene glycol).
• Bubble Lights: Contain methylene chloride, which can be harmful if swallowed or spilled on skin.

Invite Your Pet to the Party!

As the festivities kick into high gear, don’t forget to include your pet in the fun:

• Dogs love to unwrap their very own gifts, and cats will play for hours in piles of tissue and gift paper.
• Be sure to have plenty of pet toys on hand to encourage your pet to play appropriately.
• Take your dog for long walks, to help dispel extra energy.
• Reward your pet with healthy dog/cat treats rather than “people food.”
• Also, make sure they have a familiar crate or bed nearby so that they have a place to calm down when they need to.

A little preparation on your part will ensure that your pet enjoys the party without crashing it!

Further Information

• Holiday Toxin Tips (Pet Poison Helpline)
• Pet Poison Safety Tips for the Holiday Season (ASPCA)
• Winter Holiday Safety & Poison Prevention Tips (Cal. Poison Action Line)

Related posts:

• Christmas Tree FAQ
• How to Select and Care for a Live Christmas Tree
• How to Have an Eco-Friendly Green Christmas

Whether you cut down your own tree at a Christmas tree farm or visit one of the many tree lots popping up during the holidays, selecting and bringing home a Christmas tree is one of the highlights of the season. Here are some of the most commonly asked questions about how to select and care for a cut Christmas tree.

Christmas Tree Selection

What kind of tree should I get?

Douglas Fir

The type of tree you choose is really a matter of personal preference. Some prefer the stiffer branches of firs for hanging heavier ornaments, others like the soft openness of pines or the interesting colors of spruce. Christmas trees vary widely in shape, texture, and cost, although the decision is too personal to call one of them superior to another.

Different tree species have different characteristics, and the method of growing and pruning will also affect the overall appearance. Be sure to ask the grower about the care and harvest of their particular trees, to make sure you’re getting a healthy tree that will last all season.

How do I select a healthy tree?

Check for strong needles.

Look for a tree whose branches are upright and perky. The color should be green and glossy, with few to no brown needles. Grasp a branch and bend it a little, then gently pull it through your hand – look for flexible branches that don’t leave your hand full of needles. Gently shake the tree by its trunk and see what falls. A few brown needles will fall out naturally, but you shouldn’t see many green needles on the ground.

How big should my tree be?

Branches should be flexible.

That depends on the space and ceiling height available as well as your personal preference. When you’re out in the open field or at the tree lot, the trees will seem small – many a family has chosen the perfect tree and taken it home, only to discover that it won’t fit in the house! Before choosing your tree, be sure to measure the spot in your room carefully to determine how tall and wide it can be, then measure your tree before buying it. Don’t plan on trimming or shearing a tree – instead buy one the right size and shape.

How long will my tree last?

A freshly cut tree, kept well supplied with water, will last about a month. If you’re buying a precut tree, be sure to ask when it was harvested. All Christmas trees will begin to lose needles as they dry out. Fir, spruce, and cypress generally keep their needles longer than pines.

You may need to remove a few branches to help your tree sit in the stand.

Tree Stand Installation

What do I do with my tree when I get home?

Your main priority should be getting your tree in water. Even if you can’t decorate it right away, at the very least you should:

A fresh “cookie” cut.

• If you’re buying a precut tree, remove 1/2″- 1” off the trunk. The staff at the tree lot will often do this for you, but if you’re a long way from home you might as well wait.
• Put the freshly cut trunk in water within 2 hours to keep it from sealing over.
• Prune only enough branches for the trunk to fit in your tree stand – usually about 6” is enough.
• Give your tree a good shake to dislodge any dried-out needles before bringing it inside. Your vacuum cleaner will thank you later!
• Put the tree in the stand, set it in place (or on a sheltered porch), and fill the reservoir with water.

What kind of Christmas tree stand is best?

There’s not really a “best” tree stand – just make sure the reservoir holds at least a gallon of water, and that the trunk of your tree will fit in the stand easily (never shave the trunk to make it fit!). Some stands have screws that hold the tree in place while others have a spike that requires drilling a hole in the bottom of the tree. I prefer an adjustable screw tree stand with a wide plastic base that won’t scratch my floors and isn’t likely to turn over.

Christmas Tree Care

How much water does my tree need?

In the beginning, your tree can drink a gallon or more of water per day. Check the reservoir several times over the first few days, then at least once a day after that. Never let the reservoir dry out, or your tree will seal over and need another fresh cut. Water uptake will fluctuate once your tree is hydrated, so continue to monitor it.

What about aspirin and other water additives?

Additives to tree water aren’t necessary. What your tree needs most is a constant supply of fresh tap water.

Remember to water, water, water!

What should I do to keep my tree from drying out?

Sprays and other treatments aren’t necessary if you give your tree enough water. Cool temperatures and humidity help as well, so you may want to close any heat vents near your tree and place a small humidifier nearby.

Where should I put my tree?

Put it where you can get the most enjoyment out of it! However, to make your tree last longer (and for safety), keep it away from heat vents, fireplaces, and drafts.

Decorating and Safety Tips

What’s the best way to decorate a tree?

Start with lights, so you can entwine and hide the wires within the branches. Then follow with garland, and finally individual ornaments. Use larger ornaments to fill in open spaces between branches, and give your tree added dimension by hanging some at different depths, not just around the edges. Be creative and have fun!

What should I do to keep my tree safe?

To reduce the risk of fire, keep your tree hydrated and follow these holiday safety tips. If you have young children or pets, don’t leave your tree unattended, and consider securing it to the wall with clear twine or heavy fishing line to keep it from toppling over.

Can I use trimmed branches for decoration?

Absolutely! Cut branches will last a week or two as they are, or you can prolong their beauty by arranging them in water or in wet florist’s foam (such as Oasis).

Tree Disposal

What should I do with my tree after the holidays?

Don’t put your tree in a landfill! Instead, recycle your Christmas tree in the garden so that it will enrich the earth long after the holidays are over.

Dwarf Alberta Spruce makes a good tabletop tree.

Further Information

• Selecting and Caring for a Live Christmas Tree
• How to Recycle a Christmas Tree
• National Christmas Tree Association
• Top Ten Christmas Trees (about.com)

Related posts:

• How to Select and Care for a Live Christmas Tree
• How to Recycle a Christmas Tree
• How To Trim Large Tree Branches