One of the best ways to landscape a yard quickly is by planting balled and burlapped (B&B) trees and shrubs. Balled and burlapped plants are usually larger than container-grown plants and can give an instant finished appearance. Other than their size and weight, they’re easy to plant, here’s how.

Balled and burlapped plants are actually transplants.

Balled and burlapped trees and shrubs are grown in the ground while container-grown plants are grown in pots. When large enough, field-grown plants are carefully dug up and the root balls wrapped in burlap to hold the roots and soil together. The burlap may be natural (which biodegrades after planting) or synthetic (which doesn’t). While balled and burlapped may be stored for short periods of time at the garden center, they should be planted as soon as possible.

Select Plant

When choosing a tree or shrub, examine it to make sure the branches look healthy and the trunk is strong. Don’t buy a plant with damaged bark, scratches from too-tight twine, or spots that look rotten or diseased. As much as you can, pull back the burlap to make sure the roots are healthy and white and not girdling (growing in a tight circle).

Planting depth is one of the most important factors.

Preparation

Early spring is the ideal time to plant balled and burlapped trees and shrubs, with fall a close runner-up. In general, you can plant anytime the soil isn’t frozen, though some trees (such as oak, magnolia, dogwood, Bradford pear, willow, and cherry) are slower to establish roots and do better when planted in spring.

Choose shrubs and trees that are compatible with your growing conditions. Native trees and shrubs will establish much faster and will need less soil amendments. Before planting, conduct a soil test to see if amendments are needed, and check your planting site for water drainage. Remember that roots will extend far beyond your planting hole, so don’t rely too heavily on amendments to correct soil problems.

Tools and Materials

Tools and materials need include:

• Shovel and mattock or pick-axe
• Work gloves
• Tarp or wheelbarrow
• Scissors or utility knife
• Bolt or wire cutters
• Pruning shears
• Hose or watering can
• Soil amendments
• Mulch
• Tree or shurb
• Tree guard (optional)

Step 1: Dig Hole

Using the shovel and/or mattock, carefully dig a hole that is exactly as deep as the root ball and up to 2-3 times as wide, with roughened sides. The wider the hole, the better, but don’t make it deeper than the root ball. You want the roots to sit on undisturbed soil, so the plant won’t sink later. Put the excess dirt on your tarp, wheelbarrow, or in a container, and stir in any soil amendments that are needed.

Planting hole should be wide and shallow.

Step 2: Position Plant

Lift your tree or shrub by the root ball (never the trunk), and carefully place it in the planting hole. Make sure the root ball is exactly level with the soil surface, never deeper. Untie any twine holding the branches, and turn the plant so that it’s plumb and in a pleasing position.

Step 3: Partial Backfill

Backfill the hole with soil about 1/3 of the way, just enough to hold the plant in place. Firm the soil and add water to settle this first layer.

Make sure tree or shrub is plumb and balanced before filling hole.

Step 4: Remove Wrappings

Once the plant is firmly supported, begin removing the twine, wire cage, and burlap. Some gardeners prefer to leave as much burlap in place as possible (arguing that it will decompose over time), but it’s better to remove as much as you can. If the burlap is synthetic, remove it all.

Using the scissors, knife, and wire cutters, carefully cut away and gently work loose the wrappings and ties. Inspect the root ball carefully, and loosen any tightly wrapped or circling roots so they’re positioned to grow outward and down.

Balled and burlapped trees and shrubs are often grown in clay soil to help hold the roots together. You may want to use your hands to gently remove some of this soil to reduce any problems caused by the difference in soil texture at your planting site.

Step 5: Finish Backfill

Continue adding soil to the hole, gently firming it without heavy pack. Make sure the root ball stays level with the surface of the soil, and don’t heap soil over the top. Use the extra soil to create a small berm around the outside edge of the planting hole to help retain water.

A berm around the hole helps direct water to the roots.

Step 6: Water

Water your new tree or shrub thoroughly, filling the reservoir you’ve created and allowing the water to soak in slowly. After the water has been absorbed, add soil to any sunken spots. Water your new tree or shrub regularly for the first year. Once you see new leaf and stem growth, you can add some balanced fertilizer to the waterings.

Step 7: Mulch

Add 3”- 4” of mulch to help insulate the roots and hold in moisture. Don’t pile mulch up against the trunk – the crown of the plant should not be smothered or buried any deeper than it was already growing.

Step 8: Inspect and Support

Prune away any dead or diseased branches. Remove any remaining tags and twine. Firmly tie or stake your tree if needed.

Step 9: Add Tree Guard

If desired, add a tree guard to protect the trunk from critter and sun damage.

Tree guards often come as a soft wrapping.

Further Information

• How to Plant a Tree (Casey Trees, PDF 3mb)
• How to Plant a Balled and Burlapped Tree (Fine Gardening, video)
• Planting and Transplanting Landscape Trees and Shrubs (Purdue)
• How to Plant Container Grown Trees and Shrubs (article)
• How to Choose a Tree for Your Yard (video)
• How to Plant a Bare Root Tree (video)

Related posts:

• How To Plant Container Grown Trees and Shrubs
• Can I Plant Trees and Shrubs in Late Fall or Winter?
• Selecting and Caring for a Live Christmas Tree

We just bought some shrubs at a late fall sale. Can we plant them now, or should we try to store them until spring? -Dee

Go ahead and plant them. Even though it’s late in the season, your shrubs will be happier in the ground than in pots. Ideally, trees and shrubs need about a month to establish roots before a heavy freeze, but it’s actually OK to plant them anytime the ground is workable, and many bare-root trees and shrubs are planted in very early spring while they’re still dormant.

I’ve planted well into December with success, though the plantings looked pretty pitiful until the weather warms up in the spring.

Here are a few tips for seeing your late-season plantings through the winter:

• Avoid stimulating growth: Don’t fertilize or overly amend the soil. You can add a little compost and bone meal (to stimulate root growth), but hold off on fertilizer until spring.
• Don’t disturb the plant: Avoid pruning, and be very gentle with the roots while planting. The shrub won’t have time to recover from damage, and it’s going to be stressed enough as it is.
• Keep plants watered: The worst part of cold damage is caused by desiccation, or drying out. Keep new shrubs watered every week or two until the ground freezes, and especially right before a heavy freeze.
• Watch out for frost heaving: Make sure the plants stay firmly plants when the ground freezes.
• Apply Mulch: Add mulch to keep newly planted shrubs insulated. If you’re planting cold-sensitive trees or shrubs, you can add extra protection by wrapping or banking the plants with burlap or leaves on cold nights. Be sure to uncover in the morning.

If the ground is frozen solid and unworkable, you can store unplanted shrubs in a sheltered spot with a southern exposure. Bank with leaves or mulch to keep them insulated and water every few days. When growth starts in early spring, prune away any damaged branches, shape up your plants, feed with a balanced organic fertilizer, and they should recover nicely.

Further Information

• How to Protect Your Garden from Frost and Freeze
• When to Water Plants Before a Freeze
• How to Plant Container Grown Shrubs

Related posts:

• How To Plant Container Grown Trees and Shrubs
• How to Plant a Fall Vegetable Garden
• When to Water Plants Before a Freeze

If you live in an area with foraging deer, you’ve likely watched with dismay as some of your favorite plants disappeared overnight. But before you give up on gardening altogether, try making your yard less appealing to deer by choosing plants that deer find less appealing.

The Deer-Proof Garden

It’s important to remember that unless you build a very tall fence, there is no such thing as a deer-proof garden. Deer will eat anything if they are hungry enough, and they can adapt and eat plants that are considered “resistant.” However, they do have their favorites, and they’re more attracted to places where their favorite food is easily available.

The idea behind deer-resistant gardening is to fill your yard with plants they don’t prefer, in hopes the deer will simply give up and go someplace more appetizing.

Add herbs, such as lavender, to discourage deer.

In general, deer prefer:

• Plants with lush foliage and high water content, such as hostas
• Early spring plants like tulips, crocuses, and forsythia
• Fruiting and berry-producing plants, including vegetable gardens
• Native plants

Deer are less likely to be attracted to:

• Herbs and strongly flavored plants
• Heavily scented foliage
• Plants with fuzzy or hairy leaves
• Prickly plants
• Ferns
• Grasses

If you’re planting a new border or garden, start with heavily scented and deer-resistant plants on the outside perimeter. Once you’ve established an area and encouraged the deer to browse elsewhere, you can add other plants inside the perimeter.

List of Deer-Resistant Plants

Always check with local gardeners and your cooperative extension service to find out what has (and hasn’t) worked for gardeners in your area. The following is a list of plants that research has indicated are less appealing to deer:

Rosemary is an evergreen herb that works well in flower gardens, too.

Herbs and Scented Plants

Most herbs are great choices for deer-resistant gardens, such as:

• Chives, ornamental (Allium sp.)
• Garlic, ornamental (Allium sp.)
• Ginger (Asarum sp.)
• Lavender (Lavandula sp.)
• Onion, ornamental (Allium sp.)
• Mint (Mentha sp.)
• Rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis)
• Sage, ornamental and culinary (Salvia sp.)
• Thyme (Thymus sp.)

Deer generally leave ornamental grasses alone.

Ornamental Grasses

Most ornamental grasses are deer-resistant, including:

• Fescue (Festuca sp.)
• Flame grass (Miscanthus sp.)
• Fountain Grass (Pennisetum sp.)
• Giant Reed (Arundo donax)
• Pampas grass (Cortaderia selloana)
• Purple Moor grass (Molinia caerulea)
• Sedge (Carex sp.)
• Silver grass (Miscanthus sp.)
• Zebra grass (Miscanthus sp.)

Most species of ferns are also considered deer-resistant.

Ferns

Most species of ferns, including:

• Christmas fern (Polystichum arcostichoides)
• Hayscented fern (Dennstaedtia punctilobula)
• Holly fern (Cyrtomium falcatum)
• New York fern (Thelyptens noveboracensis)
• Ostrich fern (Matteuccia struthiopteris)
• Osmanthus (Osmanthus sp.)
• Sensitive fern (Onoclea sensibilis)
• Wood fern (Dryopteris marginalis)

Annual vinca is less appealing, although annuals are often devoured.

Annuals

• Ageratum (Ageratum sp.)
• Annual Vinca (Catharanthus roseus)
• Dusty Miller (Centaurea cineraria)
• Flowering Tobacco (Nicotiana sp.)
• Poppy (Papaver sp.)
• Snapdragon (Antirrhinum majus)
• Strawflower (Helichrysum)

Lamb’s ear has fuzzy leaves that discourage deer.

Perennials and Groundcovers

• Anise Hyssop (Agastache foeniculum)
• Artemisia (Artemesia sp.)
• Bleeding Heart (Dicentra sp.)
• Bugleweed (Ajuga reptans)
• Catmint (Nepeta sp.)
• Coneflower (Echinacea sp. & Rudbeckia sp.)
• Coreopsis (Coreopsis sp.)
• Daffodil (Narcissus sp.)
• Epimedium (Epimedium sp.)
• Forget-Me-Not (Myosotis sp.)
• Foxglove (Digitalis purpurea)
• Germander (Teucrium chamaedrys)
• Iris (Iris sp.)
• Lamb’s Ear (Stachys byzantina)
• Lenten rose (Helleborus sp.)
• Ligularia (Ligularia sp.)
• Lungwort (Pulmonaria sp.)
• Monkshood (Aconitum sp.)
• Pachysandra (Pachysandra sp.)
• Potentilla, Cinquefoil (Potentilla sp.)
• Rock-Cress (Arabis caucasica)
• Rose Campion (Lychnis coronaria)
• Russian sage (Perovskia sp.)
• Spurge (Euphorbia sp.)
• Spotted Deadnettle (Lamium sp.)
• Tarragon (Artemesia sp.)
• Thistle (Echinops sp.)
• Yarrow (Achillea sp.)
• Yucca (Yucca sp.)

Creeping juniper is a popular groundcover shrub.

Shrubs and Trees

• Barberry (Berberis sp.)
• Birch (Betula sp.)
• Blue mist shrub (Caryopteris clandonensis)
• Boxwood (Buxus sp.)
• Butterfly bush (Buddleia sp.)
• Elderberry (Sambucus sp.)
• Holly (Ilex sp.)
• Juniper (Juniperus sp.)
• Lilac (Syringa sp.)
• Mahonia (Mahonia sp.)
• Maple (Acer sp.)
• Peashrub (Caragana sp.)
• Russian Olive (Elaeagnus angustifolia)
• Spruces (Picea sp.)
• Sumac (Rhus sp.)

Further Information

• Camouflage Gardening (Native Plant Society of Texas)
• Deer-Resistant Plants (Deer-Resistant Landscape Nursery)
• Landscape Plants Rated by Deer Resistance (Rutgers)

Related posts:

• How To Use Deer Repellents to Prevent Damage to Your Yard or Garden
• How to Spruce Up a Summer Garden with Tropical Plants
• Plants in Your Garden that Produce Seed for Birds

It’s a magical feeling to encounter a graceful deer, peacefully browsing in the early dawn . . . unless your beloved hostas are what’s for breakfast! Whether you live in the country or the city, foraging deer can cause significant damage to landscapes and vegetable gardens. Unfortunately, “deer-proofing” is virtually impossible, but there are steps you can take to discourage deer and minimize the damage.

Deer Repellents

Deer are prey animals by nature, and deer repellents take advantage of that by producing unpleasant or startling scents, sounds, sights, or flavors. Because they’re always on the lookout for predators, deer are very alert and easily startled, and they’ll run away (or avoid an area) when faced with a threat or questionable situation.

Tender plants such as hostas are irresistible to deer.

Repellents are temporary solutions – in time, deer will get used to any repellent, so you’ll need to change things up in order to keep it working. Ideas for DIY deer repellents and deterrents include:

Scent Repellents

• Scented soap: One of the easiest and most popular methods. Shave a few bars of strongly-scented soap (such Irish Spring or Cashmere Bouquet) and scatter the shavings around the garden. This is a great use for travel soap samples!


Scented soap as repellent.

• Human hair: Available from barber shops, human hair can be sprinkled around or hung from branches in cheesecloth bags or nylon stockings.
• Predator urine: You can order predator urine sprays (such as fox or coyote), and some gardeners send meat-eating humans outdoors to “mark the territory,” too.
• Eggs: Mix a beaten egg into a quart of water and spray plants and surrounding areas.
• Baby powder: Sprinkle on or around plants.
• Scented fabric softener sheets: Cut into strips and tie to branches or fence posts.
• Blood meal: Sprinkle around plants or beds.
• Hot pepper powder or sauce: Spray or sprinkle directly on or around plants. Some gardeners add garlic or curry powder, too.
• Milorganite: This commercial fertilizer is made from treated sewage sludge, giving it an odor unpleasant to deer. It can be hung in net bags around the garden.
• Commercial repellent sprays or granules: Available at garden centers, commercial repellents often contain a combination of unpleasant smells and flavors.

Visual and Noise Deterrents

• Bamboo fountains: Originally designed as “deer chasers” for Japanese gardens, bamboo fountains make a knocking sound when the water dumps out, which serves as a great auditory deterrent.
• Metal cans or pie pans: Hang in groups where they will reflect light and rattle in a breeze.


Japanese “Deer Chaser.”

• Tin foil or Mylar: Can be hung in strips to sparkle and reflect light. Mylar strips can also be strung from two posts or branches, where they will make a buzzing sound when caught by the wind.
• Dogs: Dogs are great garden protectors if you can keep them safely contained (and if they don’t add to the problem by digging up your garden!).
• Trail blocks: Once you’ve located common deer trails, even a wheelbarrow blocking the path can deter them for a day or two. Deer are habitual animals, and they’ll steer clear of an obstacle until they’re sure it’s safe.
• Plant netting: Green bird or plant netting can be used to protect shrubs and trees and can be used as row covers for veggie gardens. Drape it directly over the plants or on a simple wood or PVC frame.

Commercial Deterrents

If you live in a rural area or have a large farm or orchard to protect, you may want to step things up a notch. Commercial deer repellents include:

• Explosive devices (producing a gunshot-like sound)
• Ultrasonic devices
• Motion-controlled strobe lights and whistles

These aren’t recommended for home gardens because they’re expensive and can disturb neighbors.

Deer repellents often work on other prey animals like rabbits.

Tips for Using Deer Repellents

Which deer repellent works the best? The answer is probably “none of them,” (or “all of them,” depending on your perspective). Any of these methods can work temporarily, but you’ll need to change them up often in order for them to keep working.

• Scented or flavored repellents should be reapplied every few days, especially after a hard rain.
• Visual repellents should be moved around and changed frequently.
• Keep experimenting! Some gardeners swear by a favorite method, and others try it to no effect. Find what works in your garden, and be adaptable.
• Deer repellents work best in relatively small home landscapes when deer populations and damage are in the low to moderate range.
• If the deer in your area are gutsy or hungry enough, or if deer populations are large, they’ll overcome their fears and eat almost anything. In that case, you may need to consider fencing (at least 8′ tall) to protect your garden.

Further Information

• Deer Repellent Study (a great review of commercial and homemade deer repellents by the Illinois Walnut Council)
• Deer Off (Havahart)
• Liquid Fence Deer and Rabbit Repellent (Liquid Fence Company)
• Plantskydd Deer Repellent (Tree World)
• PredatorPee (sells urine from a variety of predatory animals)
• Home Garden Use of Milorganite® (Cornell Waste Management Institute)
• Milorganite® Lawn and Garden Products

Related posts:

• How to Landscape Your Yard with Deer-Resistant Plants

When I worked at a garden center, I was always wading into the compost pile and filling my car with “perfectly good plants” that had been discarded for one reason or another. I must have rescued and planted over 100 plants and shrubs one busy summer, and I learned a very important lesson: most plants are thrown away for a good reason! When the potting soil settled, I ended up with only a handful of surviving, healthy plants, and some good lessons learned.

In the fall, and sometimes in late spring, you can find great end of season discounts on perennials, shrubs, and trees. Some of the plants may simply be neglected or past their bloom time, or perhaps the store is making room for new shipments for the upcoming season. However, just as I learned from the compost pile, you may find that many of the plants are doomed, no matter how carefully you tend to them, and a dead plant is no bargain at all!

Bargain Plant Shopping Tips

When buying plants from a bargain bin, take these factors into account:

• Avoid annuals: They likely won’t recover before their growing season ends.



• Inspect the roots: Gently pull the plant out of the pot and look at the roots. Look for a healthy ball of light colored roots that nearly fill the container. Avoid plants with moldy, rotten, black, or stunted roots.
• Watch for diseased plants: Leaf spots, curled or withered leaves, injured or discolored bark, and fallen or yellowed leaves are all signs of disease. The risk of infecting the rest of the garden far outweighs the slim chance of the plant’s survival.
• Avoid severely misshapen plants: If the main trunk of a tree or shrub is broken, chances are it will never recover or will always be misshapen. Dead branches can be pruned away, but the plant needs to have a basic structure. This is less important with perennials that will be dying to the ground in the fall anyway.
• Look for signs of life: New sprigs of green growth are a good sign. If the plant is dormant or has no leaves, gently scratch the bark with your fingernail. If the plant is alive, you will see green tissue just under the bark. Dead plants will be brown underneath the bark, and the branches will be brittle.

Growing Bargain Bin Plants

If plants are distressed it’s important to plant them properly, with a focus on establishing roots. That generally requires patience, and an ability to resist tending them to death. Planting tips include:

• Don’t expect your plant to bloom this year – in fact, don’t expect any visible signs for a while. If it recovers quickly, you can be pleasantly surprised. In my experience, perennials need at least a year to catch up, and trees and shrubs may take 3-5 years to equal their healthy counterparts.
• Add a source of phosphorus to the planting hole to promote root growth, but resist the urge to fertilize until at least next spring. Let your plant grow when it’s ready.
• Be sure your plant gets plenty of water and possibly some shade protection in the heat of summer.
• If you’re planting in the spring, prune your plants by a third to a half, to reduce stress on the roots.
• If you’re planting shrubs or trees in the fall, prune away any dead wood when you’re planting, then early next spring you can do a heavier pruning to reshape the plant.

Related posts:

• Can I Plant Trees and Shrubs in Late Fall or Winter?
• When to Water Plants Before a Freeze
• Vegetable Garden: Growing Cool-Season Vegetables

Fall and spring are great seasons for planting container grown trees and shrubs in your yard. Plants grown in containers are generally available only during the growing seasons, but they benefit from time to get established before the weather becomes too hot or cold.

Container grown trees and shrubs do best if you take the time to plant them correctly, so a few extra minutes spent planting can result in carefree plants for years to come.

Most trees and shrubs need a year or so to become established.

Do Your Homework

The best way to ensure success is by choosing trees and shrubs compatible with your climate. Before purchasing, you should:

• Take note of the light, water, temperatures, and air circulation in the planting area.
• Do a soil test to see if your soil needs pH or nutrient adjustment. You can do a little adjusting to fit your plants, but you’ll have better luck if you choose plants suited for your conditions.
• Determine how well your soil drains. Some trees and shrubs don’t like soggy roots while others hate drying out.

Adding a little phosphorus helps root growth.

Step 1: Tools and Materials

To plant container grown trees and shrubs, you’ll need:

• Shovel and/or mattock
• Sharp, sterile knife
• Gardening gloves
• Hose or watering can
• Organic soil conditioner (about half a bag per plant)
• A source of phosphorus (such as bone meal)
• Mulch
• Trees or shrubs

Be sure to give each plant room to grow to full size.

Step 2: Mark Locations

• Place plants (still in containers) where they will go. Work out the correct spacing and distribution before you start digging, making sure each plant will have room to spread out to its mature size without rubbing against structures or other plants.
• Take your shovel or mattock and mark a circle in the soil, at least three times the diameter of the pot, for the border of each planting hole. You can also use flags, marking paint, or other markers if desired.
• Move the plants off to the side, preferably in the shade.

Take the time to dig a proper size planting hole.

Step 3: Dig Planting Hole

The planting hole is the most important part! A wide planting hole encourages the roots to spread out and establish themselves faster.

• Your planting hole should be slightly shallower than the root ball, but at least three times as wide.
• The roots should rest on solid ground to keep the plant from sinking, with the top of the root ball about an inch above the soil level.
• If you’re ambitious, you can dig deeper around the edges, leaving a solid mound in the center of the hole for the root ball to rest on.
• If your soil is compacted, make sure to rough up the sides of the hole, so it doesn’t glaze over and act like a big clay container.

Gently slice any circling roots.

Step 4: Prepare and Place Plants

• Gently lay the plant on its side and remove the container. Be very careful not to break any stems or to yank too hard on any part of the plant. If it’s stuck, you may need to squeeze or pound the container a little to work it loose, or cut the container into pieces.
• Use a sharp, sterile knife to gently cut any roots that are circling or matted. Circling roots have a tendency to keep growing in a circle instead of branching out.
• Don’t loosen or break apart the root ball itself! The idea is to keep the root ball intact, with some careful slices to encourage branching.
• Place each tree or shrub in the planting hole, then stand back and take a close look. Make sure the plant is straight, at the correct spacing and depth, and turned the direction you prefer it to face.

Make sure the root ball isn’t too deep.

Step 5: Backfill Hole

• Backfill around plants in stages, taking time to tamp down each layer.
• Incorporate a few shovelfuls of soil conditioner, and a sprinkling of bone meal, in with the soil, but don’t overdo it. Plants do better when the surrounding soil is similar to the landscape soil.
• When backfilling, don’t pile dirt on top of the root ball – keep it the same depth, or slightly shallower, than it was in the pot.
• Use extra soil to make a small donut-shaped mound around your plant, to help hold water. If your plants are on a slope, you can also use excess soil to make a small barrier to slow runoff.

Proper planting guide.

Step 6: Water and Adjust

• Water plants thoroughly, allowing time for it to soak in completely.
• The soil will sink a little as air pockets collapse, so recheck your plants and fill in any low spots.

Step 7: Mulch

• Add a light layer of mulch to protect your newly planted trees or shrubs. Usually 2”- 4” is plenty.
• Don’t pile mulch around the stems, as it can cause rotting and disease.

Step 8: Care After Planting

• Give your trees and shrubs extra water until established. Water new plants at least once a week for the first 5-6 weeks, then gradually cut back to every 2-3 weeks once there are signs (such as new leaf growth) they’re becoming established.
• By the following year, your plants should be ready to handle normal growing conditions, with perhaps some extra water during dry periods.

Further Information

• How to Plant Balled and Burlapped Trees and Shrubs (article)
• How to Plant a Bare Root Tree (video)
• How to Choose a Tree for Your Yard (video)
• How to Grow Holly
• How to Grow Hibiscus
• How to Grow Camellias
• How to Grow Hydrangeas
• How to Grow Crape Myrtles

Related posts:

• How to Plant Balled and Burlapped Trees and Shrubs
• Can I Plant Trees and Shrubs in Late Fall or Winter?
• When to Plant Scotch Broom

The large, colorful blossoms of Hibiscus (Hibiscus sp.) create an eye-catching display during summer, attracting hummingbirds and butterflies and providing the look of a tropical paradise, no matter what the variety. Hibiscus plants are members of the Mallow family, and there are many different species that are used in gardening, agriculture, and manufacturing.

To grow hibiscus in your home garden, it’s important to know the three main types of plants:

• Tropical hibiscus
• Hardy perennial hibiscus
• Hardy shrub hibiscus

Here are some tips for growing and caring for all three.

Tropical Hibiscus

With its sturdy shape and colorful blossoms, tropical hibiscus (Hibiscus rosa-sinensis) is a popular choice for container plants and tropical gardens. It grows as a small shrub or tree, with stiff woody stems and thick, glossy, dark green leaves.

Blossoms are usually 3”- 6” in diameter and come in many different colors and varieties including red, orange, yellow, salmon-pink, multicolored, and even double blossoms.

How to Grow Tropical Hibiscus

• Climate: Can be grown year round in zones 9-10 but will not survive frost or heavy freeze. Cooler zones (8 and lower) usually grow it as an annual, or in containers that can be brought indoors during cold weather.
• Light: Full sun.
• Soil: Rich and well-draining. Container-grown plants are often grown in a soilless potting medium to prevent compaction. Keep moist, but don’t let it stand in water.
• Fertilizer: Tropical hibiscus blooms on new growth, so it benefits from regular feeding with a balanced, organic, liquid fertilizer.
• Flowers: Blooms spring through fall, but flowering may slow in the heat of midsummer.

To keep your tropical hibiscus over the winter, bring it indoors before night temperatures fall into the 40s F. Keep in a cool, bright spot (55°-70° F). Reduce, but don’t discontinue, watering. Your plant may lose some leaves as it adjusts to the change.

A few weeks before moving outdoors in the spring, give your hibiscus a rather heavy pruning – shortening leggy stems and removing rubbing branches. Remove the top couple of inches of soil and replace with fresh compost. Add some organic fertilizer, and your plant will be well on its way to a spring growth spurt!

Some varieties of tropical hibiscus overwinter better than others. If yours doesn’t bloom well the second year, you may want to consider replacing it.

Hardy Perennial Hibiscus

If you look at your local garden center for winter-hardy hibiscus, chances are you’ll find the enormous dinner-plate-sized blossoms of Hibiscus moscheutos. Commonly called Rose Mallow or Swamp Mallow, this plant is an herbaceous perennial, which means it will die completely back to the ground in the winter then sprout anew in the spring.

Compared to tropical hibiscus, the stems and heart-shaped leaves of hardy hibiscus are much softer, dull green, and tender. Blossoms are usually flat and large and the texture of tissue paper. They are available in colors of red, pink, and white.

How to Grow Hardy Perennial Hibiscus

• Climate: Hardy to Zone 4. Does not transplant very well, so choose your location carefully.
• Light: Full Sun.
• Soil: Well-draining and rich. Loves water and should remain moist in summer. Grows naturally near ditches and swamps. During the winter, however, the roots should not be soggy. Add mulch to hold in moisture and prevent damage from late spring frosts.
• Fertilizer: Hardy hibiscus is a heavy feeder. Organic fertilizers with plenty of phosphorus will encourage blooms.
• Flowers: Blooms in July and August. Each flower is short-lived, but there are plenty more to come.

In the fall or late winter, cut back the dead stems of hardy hibiscus to near ground level. Compared to other perennials, this plant can be a little late to sprout in the spring, but by midsummer it will be sprawling several feet high. Stake long stems if needed.

In addition to Hibiscus moscheutos, other perennial hibiscus species include the slender petals of Scarlet Hibiscus (Hibiscus coccineus) and the ruffled pink blossoms of Confederate Rose (Hibiscus mutabilis). If you live near water, try growing the marsh-loving Giant Rose Mallow (Hibiscus grandiflora).

Hardy Hibiscus Shrubs: Althea or Rose of Sharon

Last, but certainly not least, we come to the larger shrubs and trees known more commonly as Althea or Rose-of-Sharon (Hibiscus syriacus). These carefree plants brighten up any landscape and are a must-have for hummingbird and butterfly gardens. The blooms are smaller than its tropical cousin, but it has a sustained, prolific bloom period in mid to late summer.

Hibiscus syriacus is a deciduous shrub or small tree, growing up to 10 feet tall and wide, with dark green foliage and flowers in shades of pink, blue, lavender, and white.

How to Grow Hardy Hibiscus Shrubs

• Climate: Grown in zones 5-9. Used as a border or specimen shrub. Loses its leaves in winter. Upright shape, fairly dense, with a coarse texture.
• Light: Full sun, with a little afternoon shade in hotter climates.
• Soil: Rich and well-draining, although it’s pretty adaptable to a range of growing conditions.
• Fertilizer: Average water and nutrient needs. Generally carefree.
• Flowers: A rapid grower that can be pruned heavily in the early spring to encourage larger blossoms. May self-seed and sprout around the base.

White Althea

Further Information

The website floridata.com has excellent specific growing instructions for many varieties of hardy hibiscus including:

• Scarlet Hibiscus
• Confederate Rose
• Swamp Rose Mallow

More information about the many varieties of tropical hibiscus can be found at www.trop-hibiscus.com.

Related posts:

• How to Grow Hydrangeas
• How to Grow Peonies
• How to Grow Daylilies

By early- to mid- summer, the large flower heads of hydrangea (Hydrangea sp.) begin to dot the landscape, weighing down the branches with saturated color. Hydrangeas make a great addition to landscape borders, and the blossoms are gorgeous as cut or dried flowers. Here are some tips for growing this eye-catching plant in your yard.

Pink mophead blossoms look like pompoms.

About Hydrangeas

Hydrangeas are deciduous shrubs that transform from bare winter stalks into lush, green branches dripping with blooms in summer. These graceful, rounded shrubs range from 3 to 10 feet tall or more. Larger varieties look more treelike and substantial in shrub borders, while smaller varieties can be tucked into perennial beds or even containers.

Colors of blossoms include white, pink, lilac, red, blue, purple, and even greenish. Blossom color can change as the flower matures, or as the plant itself matures, and it’s not uncommon to see more than one color on one plant (or even within one blossom!). You can also change the color of many hydrangeas using soil supplements, as explained below.

There are more varieties of hydrangea than people can agree upon, but most garden hydrangeas fall within a few main species:

Lacecap hydrangea.

• Bigleaf hydrangeas (Hydrangea macrophylla) include the familiar “Mopheads” and “Lacecaps” that are used in cut flowers and florists’ arrangements. Hardy to zone 6.
• Climbing hydrangeas (Hydrangea anomala) are hardy to zone 4 with white, lacecap-style blooms. They can be trained to grow up trellises or spill over walls.
• Oakleaf hydrangeas (Hydrangea quercifolia) are native to the U.S. They have a distinctive peeling bark and spectacular red fall foliage. Hardy to zone 5.
• Panicle hydrangeas (Hydrangea paniculata) boast late-season, pale pink to lime green blossoms. They are the most cold hardy variety, reliable to zone 4.
• Smooth hydrangeas (Hydrangea arborescens) are another native U.S. plant and hardy to zone 4.

Hydrangeas make a stunning border shrub.

Growing Hydrangeas

If a hydrangea doesn’t bloom, chances are it isn’t planted in the right spot. While some varieties tolerate more or less sunshine than others, in general hydrangeas do well with:

• Light: Full morning sun, with some light afternoon shade.
• Soil: Rich, crumbly, well-draining soil with plenty of organic matter.
• Water: They don’t have the word “Hydra” in their names for nothing! Choose a location with plenty of water and good drainage. Hydrangeas are thirsty plants, but they don’t like to sit in water.

Oakleaf hydrangea exhibit dramatic red foliage in the fall.

Planting Hydrangeas

When planting or propagating hydrangeas, keep in mind that:

• Early summer is a great time to plant hydrangeas, but they are more readily available when blooming. Plant anytime throughout the growing season, although they will need TLC in hot weather.
• Use lots of organic matter in the planting hole, especially if you have clay soil.
• Make sure your hydrangea is planted at the same depth it was in the pot.
• Hydrangeas can be propagated using softwood cuttings on an existing plant. Choose a nonblooming, new, soft green stem, and take a 6”- 8” cutting with several pairs of leaves. Remove the bottom leaves, dip in rooting hormone, and plant in light compost. Create a mini-greenhouse using glass jars or plastic. Place in a bright, shady spot, and keep moist until rooted. Transplant carefully into light, rich soil.
• Hydrangeas can also be propagated by burying a live branch in a technique known as ground layering.

Hydrangeas need rich soil and plenty of water

Caring for Hydrangeas

To keep your hydrangeas healthy, remember to:

• Fertilize 2-3 times throughout the growing season with a balanced, slow-release organic fertilizer.
• Keep hydrangeas mulched to hold in moisture. Organic mulches will also break down to enrich the soil.
• Hydrangeas become visibly wilted if allowed to dry out. They need at least an inch of water per week during the growing season, and possibly more in hot, dry weather.
• Deadheading promotes more blooms, although some gardeners like to leave the dried blossoms on the stalks during the winter.
• New growth can be cold sensitive. Protect your hydrangeas from late spring freezes, and don’t fertilize or prune in the fall.

Hydrangea blooms come in a wide variety of colors.

Pruning Hydrangeas

Pruning techniques for hydrangeas vary depending on the variety:

• Bigleaf (H. macrophylla) and oakleaf (H. quercifolia) hydrangeas bloom on buds that emerge from old wood. In spring, only remove stalks you’re certain are dead. Heavier spring pruning will result in lots of new stems that won’t bloom until next year. After they bloom in summer, you can prune lightly for shape, and also thin the stalks – if desired – to encourage fewer, but larger, blooms.
• Panicle (H. paniculata) and smooth (H. arborescens) hydrangeas bloom on new growth, so they can be pruned in early spring to encourage a flush of new stems for summer blossoms. Some gardeners prune smooth hydrangea to the ground in the late fall and treat them as a perennial.

Bloom color varies even within the same plant.

Changing the Color of Hydrangea Blooms

The color of pink and blue hydrangeas depends on the amount of aluminum within the plant, which is controlled by soil pH. Acid soil (plus aluminum) makes the flowers blue, while alkaline soil turns them pink.

Gardeners love to manipulate this by adding supplements to achieve a desired flower color. Each variety reacts differently to color manipulation, and white varieties usually won’t change color at all.

Drying Hydrangea Blooms

Hydrangea blossoms make lovely dried flowers. Leave them on the plant until they are papery-feeling and partially dry. Carefully cut the stems and hang the flowers upside down, or stand them in a jar, until completely dried.

Further Information

• Hydrangea Questions and Answers (U.S. National Arboretum)
• Hydrangeas! Hydrangeas! (website on Hydrangeas)
• Hydrangea Propagation by Ground Layering (video)

Related posts:

• How to Grow Hibiscus
• How to Grow Daylilies
• How to Grow Camellias

This summer, I am loving the mulberry trees in the back yard! The ripe fruit is sweet, juicy, and lightly tart, making it an irresistible summer afternoon snack, and the lush trees turn my back yard into a summertime rainforest. The birds and squirrels seem to like them, too, and as I look out my office window this morning, I can see them swooping, hopping, and feasting from branch to branch.

Mulberry trees are quite drought-tolerant and cold-hardy, and many varieties grow in poor soil. In some areas, they’re even known as “weed trees” because they show up uninvited in neglected areas. Below are some tips for growing mulberry trees, although it must be said that my own trees are tucked into a small, semi-shady back yard, with no supplemental care whatsoever, and they are absolutely dripping with berries.

About Mulberry Trees (Morus sp.)

Native Red Mulberry

• Species: include White Mulberry (Morus alba), Black Mulberry (Morus nigra), Red Mulberry (Morus rubra), and hybrids, with numerous named cultivars. The Red Mulberry, also called American Mulberry, is the only species native to North America.
• Hardiness: Hardy to Zones 3-7, depending on the variety. Black Mulberry is the least cold hardy.
• Size: Red and White Mulberries to 70-80 feet. Black Mulberries are smaller and more bushlike, growing to 30 feet.
• Flowers: Green and not very distinctive.
• Fruit: Edible blackberry-shaped fruits in late spring or early summer. Fruits are white, black, dark red, or lavender. Fruit is deliciously sweet and tart and ripens slowly over time, for an extended harvest. Harvest carefully by hand, or spread a sheet on the ground and lightly shake the branches. Fruits are used fresh and in desserts, preserves, and wines, but be prepared to fight the birds and squirrels for them!

Growing Tips

Black Mulberry

• Light: Full sun for best fruiting.
• Location: Mulberry trees are great for attracting a variety of birds and wildlife to your yard, so plant where you can enjoy them. Don’t plant near sidewalks, structures, or parking areas – the berries will stain (as will the droppings of the feasting birds).
• Soil: Well-draining and deep, although these trees are tolerant of many soil types.
• Water: Although fairly drought-tolerant, it will not fruit well if too dry.
• Nutrient needs: Minimal to no fertilization is needed.
• Pruning and care: Prune lightly to keep a tidy shape. Heavy or regular pruning is not needed. Branches tend to bleed if heavily pruned.

Related posts:

• Landscaping Tips for a Bird-Friendly Yard
• (693) The Great Outdoors: Making the Most of Your Yard
• The Great Camellia Show

Like happy cheerleaders, these creations usually herald the season with holiday wreaths, Easter egg necklaces, or colorful bows around their necks. Over time, they have been carefully trimmed and shaped through the art of topiary, an ancient form of sculpture using living plants. And in all the years I’ve been running past them, I’ve never seen a single leaf out of place.

Topiary is an art that takes patience and precision, but like many other garden practices, you get to decide how complicated you want it to be. A trimmed square hedge is a simple form of topiary, as are tree-form hibiscus, spiral-shaped arborvitae, and those funny ivy-covered monkeys you see in roadside markets. I like to see people having fun in their garden – these green guardians never fail to bring a smile to my face, and they are a glimpse into the playful personality of the gardener. I mean, how can you be in a bad mood after a visit to a yard like this?