Hazards

There are two potential problems that can turn removing a textured ceiling into a DIY nightmare:

• Acoustic texture manufactured before 1980 may contain asbestos and should be tested before being removed. While it doesn’t pose a health risk if left in place, removing a ceiling containing asbestos can stir up the fibers and cause them to become trapped in your lungs. More information about the dangers of Asbestos in Your Home can be found on the Environmental Protection Agency website.
• Another potential problem that can make removing a popcorn ceiling much more difficult is if paint has been applied over the texture. This prevents the texture from absorbing water, which is necessary to loosen the material. While a painted textured ceiling can be removed, it usually requires the application of a chemical stripper to breakdown the paint barrier.

To determine if either of these conditions applies to your ceiling, combine a few drops of liquid dishwashing soap with warm water in a hand sprayer. Lightly spray a small spot in an inconspicuous location, and wait a few minutes for it to absorb the water. If the water will not soak in, the ceiling has been painted. Otherwise, the texture should come off easily.

To test ceiling texture applied before 1980 for asbestos, use a putty knife to scrape a small amount into a sealable plastic bag. If you’re concerned about the possible health risks involved in taking the sample, a testing service can be hired to come out and take it for you.

Send the sample to an approved testing service to see if it contains asbestos. To find a testing service in your area, contact the state environmental or health office. A directory of state offices can be found on the EPA website.

If the material is found to contain over 1% asbestos then by law you can not remove it yourself and will need to contact a professional asbestos removal company or leave the ceiling as is. Even if it doesn’t contain asbestos, it’s important to wear an appropriate dust mask or respirator when removing the ceiling.

Equipment

To do the job you will need:

• Plastic sheeting (2-3 mil for walls, 6 mil for floors)
• Rosin paper
• Painter’s tape
• Rags
• Putty knife
• Pump up sprayer
• Liquid dishwashing soap
• 6” or wider floor scraper
• Mesh sanding pad with handle
• Drywall joint compound
• Drywall joint tape
• Dust mask or respirator
• Coveralls
• Eye protection

Preparation

Removing a textured ceiling is a messy job so good prep work is important to keep from damaging your walls or floor and to make clean up easier.

• Remove all furniture from the room.
• Turn off the heating or cooling system and close any vents. Ceiling vents should be removed and covered with plastic.
• Turn off the power to the room and remove any ceiling lights or paddle fans.
• Cover wall outlets and switches with plastic, sealing them with painter’s tape.

• Cover the floor with plastic, extending it a foot up the wall and attaching it with painter’s tape.

• Run painter’s tape on the wall around the ceiling along the walls and attach the 2-3 mil plastic sheeting to it, overlapping the plastic along the bottom of the wall.

• To assist in clean up, cover the floor with rosin paper, overlapping the sheets and taping them together.

Getting It Down

Be sure to wear a dust mask or respirator and safety glasses, and keep the part of the ceiling you are working on damp to reduce dust.

• If your ceiling wasn’t painted, fill a pump up sprayer with warm water and add 2-3 tablespoons of dishwashing soap per gallon of water.
• Saturate a 4-6 foot square section of the ceiling with the solution. Wet it enough to loosen it, but not so much that it damages the drywall under the texture.

• Wait 15-20 minutes for the solution to be absorbed by the texture material.
• Use a floor scraper, or other wide bladed tool, to gently scrape away the popcorn texture. Be careful not to gouge the drywall or tear the drywall joint tape.

• If the texture proves difficult to remove, spray it again, wait a few minutes, and try again.
• Use a putty knife to remove any residual material as well as to get into the corners.

Repairs and Finishing Touches

You’ll probably need to do some drywall finishing to the ceiling after the texture has been removed, including:

• Hammer any visible nails or screws below the surface and cover them with joint compound.
• Replace any damaged drywall tape and smooth out the joints with joint compound.
• Once the repair work has dried, sand the ceiling with a long handled mesh sanding pad. Sand only to remove the high spots, as too much sanding will damage the ceiling.

• The final touch is to prime and paint the ceiling using latex ceiling paint.

A Great Workout

Removing that dated popcorn ceiling will save a trip to the gym by giving your arms and upper body a great workout. In addition to your bulging biceps, the smooth ceiling will add value in your house and make all the hard work worthwhile.

Patching a hole in drywall is a common home repair, but sanding the joint compound smooth before painting can create a lot of dust.

Instead of sanding the patch, consider using a drywall sponge. While it takes a bit longer than sanding, a drywall sponge greatly reduces the amount of dust in the air.

Start by dipping the sponge in warm water and wringing out the excess. Then, using the course side of the sponge, go over the drywall patch in a circular motion.

Rinse the sponge out in the bucket from time to time. As you keep going over it, the joint compound will soften and smooth out the patch. Once it dries, you can paint right over it.

It can be frustrating to run out of caulking when you’re almost through with the job. What you may not realize is that there’s usually a little more caulking left in the tube that the plunger on the caulking gun can’t quite push out.

To squeeze out that last little bit, cut a 2” long dowel or block of wood that will slide inside the tube.

Take the caulking tube out of the gun and insert the dowel in the tube.

Put the tube back on the caulking gun and snug the plunger up against the dowel.

The wood acts to extend the plunger, forcing out just enough caulking to finish the job.

Cedric,

Unless the surface is unfinished or you’re switching between types of paint—such as oil based woodwork being covered by latex paint—you don’t have to prime before painting again. If the surface is dirty or greasy, clean it thoroughly before painting. If it is glossy, it’s a good idea to dull it first with sandpaper or a liquid deglosser.

For more information on priming, see our article A Homeowner’s Guide to Paint Primer.

Judy,

Large knots, like those found in knotty pine, can pose a problem when painting, since the resin in them has a tendency to bleed back through the finished surface. To prevent this, spot prime any knots first with an oil based or pigmented shellac primer that is designed to prevent bleeding. If there are a lot of knots, prime the entire surface to give it a more even texture. If the boards have been varnished, lightly sand them and wipe off any dust before priming so the primer will adhere well. More information on primers is available on our website at A Homeowner’s Guide to Paint Primer.

Good luck with your project,

I patched a big hole in my wall with drywall and put spackling over the drywall. Was this wrong? -Yolunda

Yolunda,

While similar in nature, spackling is usually used to fill nail holes and other minor imperfections while joint compound is the best choice for finishing drywall. Spackling is thicker and shrinks less than joint compound, but joint compound goes on smoother and is easier to sand. Both spackling and joint compound should only be applied in thin layers and allowed to dry thoroughly between coats.

Once you’ve cut the drywall patch and nailed or screwed it in place, rough up the painted surface around it with sandpaper and wipe off any dust with a damp sponge. Next, apply either mesh or paper drywall tape over the joints where the two pieces meet to reinforce the seams and keep them from cracking.

Fiberglass mesh tape is easier to use since it has an adhesive on one side which is applied directly to the surface of the drywall. It is then covered by several coats of joint compound and sanded smooth. When using paper tape, apply a thin layer of joint compound to the seam first then press the tape into the compound with a drywall taping knife. After it has dried, apply additional coats of joint compound and sand the wall smooth.

Whether it’s sealing around the tub, keeping a winter chill at bay, or hiding unsightly cracks in crown molding, caulking plays an important and often overlooked role in your home. Used to bridge gaps where materials meet, caulking performs the essential function of keeping water and outside air where they belong, which can prevent mold and rot from forming in your walls and save money on energy bills. In addition, caulking can make your house look better and paint jobs last longer. While today’s high-tech caulk is very durable, it won’t last forever. When it begins to fail, repair the joint as soon as possible to prevent damage to your home.

Caulking Considerations

When choosing caulk for a particular job, take into account:

• Materials – Some caulks adhere better to certain materials than others.
• Moisture – In areas that stay wet, such as around a tub or sink, use a caulk that is highly resistant to both water and mildew.
• Temperature – Some caulks can only be applied in warm weather while others aren’t designed to handle extreme changes in temperature.
• Location – When caulking outdoors, choose one that will hold up to the elements and is flexible enough to withstand movement in the joint.
• Paintable – While most caulks can be painted over after they have cured, others cannot.
• Application – Some caulks are easy to apply and can be cleaned up with water while others are messy and require solvents. Several caulks have a strong odor while curing and a few even release noxious fumes.

Types of Caulk

While there are many specialized caulks on the market, the most common ones used by homeowners are:

• Acrylic Latex – Good for general applications such as sealing around windows, doors, and moldings. May be used both inside and out as long as the temperature is 40ºF or higher while curing. Can be painted and also comes in colors. Water and mildew resistant but needs to dry thoroughly before getting wet. Not as flexible as silicone or butyl rubber, but easier to apply and cleans up with soap and water.
• Butyl Rubber – Forms a highly water resistant sealant and is excellent for caulking concrete, brick, or metal surfaces. Can be painted when completely cured. Remains flexible and is a good choice for joints that expand and contract, like gutters and roof flashing. Messy to use and requires solvent for cleanup.
• Silicone – Best for sealing glass, metal, ceramic tile, and other non-porous surfaces. Doesn’t adhere well to porous materials like wood and masonry. While most brands cannot be painted, it’s available in clear and several colors. Remains flexible after drying. Since nothing sticks to cured silicone—including more silicone—it is hard to repair and leaves a film behind that is difficult to remove. Can be applied at almost any temperature. Emits a sharp odor when curing and requires solvent for cleanup.
• Kitchen and Bath – Specifically designed for areas subject to high moisture like around sinks and tubs. Comes in a variety of colors that resist mold and mildew growth. Allow to dry thoroughly before getting wet. Cleans up with soap and water.

Application Tools

Though most caulk is sold in tubes that require a caulking gun, it’s also available in handy squeeze tubes for smaller projects and pressurized cans which can be used for large gaps such as around door frames and windows.

Caulking guns consist of a cradle that holds the tube, a plunger to push the caulk out, and a trigger to control the flow. They range in price from under $2 for bottom of the line models to over $200 for battery powered ones that work at the push of a button. Those in the $10 to $20 price range feature notable improvements such as:

• Dripless – The flow stops when the trigger is released without having to manually disengage the plunger.
• Cutter – Used to trim the tube nozzle to size.
• Seal Punch – Punctures the aluminum seal in caulking tubes.
• High Ratio – More thrust in the plunger results in less hand fatigue.

Applying Caulk

Be sure to use only fresh caulk. When in doubt squeeze a little out and let it dry overnight to see if it hardens properly. Caulking is an acquired skill that takes a bit of practice to master, so practice on scrap until you get the hang of it.

Start by cutting the nozzle at a 45 degree angle equal in width to the gap you plan to fill. Cutting too wide a hole not only wastes caulk but makes the bead more noticeable and harder to smooth out.

Puncture the seal on the tube using the punch on the caulking gun or a nail.

Place the tube in the gun and push the plunger up snug. Squeeze the trigger until caulk starts to come out of the nozzle. Put the nozzle in the gap and pull the gun slowly toward you at a 45 degree angle while pushing the trigger. The bead should contact both sides of the joint and fill the gap.

Use a clean wet finger, damp rag, or special caulk smoothing tool to even out the bead before it skims over.

Wear disposable gloves to keep your hands clean when using silicone and other solvent based caulks.

To make a straight line, use strips of painter’s tape on each side of the gap. After applying the caulk and smoothing it out, peel off the tape.

More Information:

• U.S. Department of Energy Caulking Guide

Related Articles

• How To Caulk Effectively
• Caulk Saving Trick (video)
• Caulking a Tub

Primers are specially formulated paint products that are used to prepare surfaces for the finish coat of paint. Their most important job is to adhere to the substrate while creating a uniform surface that is ready to receive paint. Primers also act to seal pores in wood and other permeable materials as well as to prevent stains, knots, and wood tannins from bleeding through. When properly applied, primers can make your paint job last longer and look better.

When to Prime

Every unfinished surface—including wood, drywall, metal, and concrete—should be primed before painting. While it can be tempting to skip this step, the results are almost always disappointing. Paint applied to unprimed surfaces tends to peel, crack, and chalk more than paint applied to properly primed surfaces.

Previously painted surfaces rarely require priming unless you are switching between types of paint or the existing paint is failing. Always scrape and sand any deteriorating surfaces before applying primer. Remember, your paint job is no better than the preparation that goes into it.

At first glance applying primer may seem like an unnecessary expense, but it actually saves money as well as time. A good coat of primer improves paint’s hide, or ability to cover, reducing the number of coats that are necessary to achieve a smooth finish. Primers can be tinted to match the paint color. Tinting improves the primer’s hide and smoothes the transition between primer and topcoat.

Types of Primers

Primers are available in oil, shellac, or latex-based formulas. Each type has differing properties and uses a different solvent for thinning and cleanup. Choosing which type to use is largely a matter of matching the primer’s characteristics to the project at hand.

Oil Primers

These slow drying primers release volatile organic compounds in the air and require mineral spirits for cleanup and thinning. They produce a very smooth finish that does the best job of filling pores in bare wood while not raising the grain. Oil primers also provide a good barrier to keep tannins from certain woods from bleeding through.

Oil primers are good to use for:

• Unfinished wood.
• Previously varnished wood.
• Redwood, cedar, or other woods that tend to bleed tannins.
• Heavily weathered wood.
• Over existing paint that is failing due to chalking or cracking.

Latex primers

These fast drying, water-soluble primers have come along way in recent years and are now available in low and no-VOC formulas. Latex primers are not as brittle as their oil or shellac-based cousins and provide a more flexible finish that is resistant to cracking. This makes them suitable for priming bare softwoods, though test them first to see if they raise the grain or allow resin to bleed through. Latex primers are the best choice for unfinished drywall, since they act to even out the texture and sheen between the wallboard and joint compound. They also allow water vapor to pass through, which can make them less likely to peel.

Use latex primers on:

• Unfinished drywall.
• Bare softwoods like pine.
• Masonry such as brick or concrete block.
• Galvanized metal, after proper cleaning.

While it used to be necessary to apply oil-based primers over oil-based paint and latex primers over latex paints, many primers today allow you to switch between them as long as you prepare the surface properly. Using oil-based paint over latex rarely requires special preparation, but changing from oil-based to latex paint typically involves sanding or deglossing the surface first.

If you’re not sure whether the existing paint is oil-based or latex, wipe a small area with a clean rag saturated with denatured alcohol, paint deglosser, or non-acetone fingernail polish remover. If the paint is oil-based, it won’t be affected. If it’s latex, some paint will come off on the rag or the surface will become tacky.

Pigmented Shellac Primers

Shellac-based primers are fast drying and use denatured alcohol for thinning and cleanup. Though smelly and difficult to use, they are excellent at blocking stains and preventing bleed through.

Shellac primers should be used to prime or spot prime:

• Water, smoke, and rust stains.
• Knots, pitch pockets, and stubborn tannin bleeding.
• Wood, metal, plaster, or plastic when you need a fast drying product.

Application and Clean Up

All primers should be applied to clean, dry, grease-free surfaces. It is a good idea to lightly sand surfaces—followed by wiping off any dust with a tack rag or damp cloth—before applying primer. If the primer leaves the surface rough, lightly sand and dust it again before applying the finish coat. For best results, paint surfaces within a week after priming.

Make sure you have adequate ventilation when using any paint product. This means that there should be no more of the fumes in the room than if you were working outside. If opening the windows and using fans isn’t enough, wear a mask or respirator. You might also want to consider using one of the new low or non-VOC latex formulations when painting indoors.

For more information on specific primers, visit the Kilz and Zinsser websites.

After the walls have been rolled and the paint has dried, it’s time to tackle the trim. Using an angled trim brush and straight edge guide, work your way carefully around the room. Avoid drips and try to keep a straight line where the trim meets the wall.

When painting over stained trim, rough up the old finish with sandpaper—or use liquid deglosser—so the paint will adhere to the surface. A stain blocking primer should be used over natural or stained wood surfaces to prevent them from bleeding through the paint. After the primer has dried, top coat it with trim paint.