To remove an existing tile, use a nail set to mark the surface then drill holes through the tile using carbide tipped masonry bit. Finally, chisel away the title with a cold chisel and remove any loose mortar.

Showerheads that mimic the feel of falling rain usually require additional plumbing to retrofit them to an existing shower, but AquaScape showerheads from Waterpik have an adjustable arm that connects to the existing pipe without any extra plumbing.

Using heavy equipment to dig the hole for a backyard pool can be a challenge in tight quarters. Once the hole has been dug, steel reinforcement is laid and specially modified concrete is sprayed and shaped to form the sides and bottom of the pool.

Before renovation can begin on a house that’s been flooded, the drywall, insulation, and furnishings have to be removed. Then any residual mold is treated with chemicals and the framing is cleaned.

Danny,
I want to put a new floor in my bathroom and need to know how to take the old toilet out and put a new one in.
Thank you - Tommy

Hi Tommy,
Begin by turning off the water at the cut-off valve located behind the toilet. Flush the toilet, holding the handle down so all the water drains out of the tank, then use a sponge to remove any remaining water from the tank and bowl. Next, use a wrench to disconnect the water supply line from the bottom of the tank.

Take the plastic covers off the flange bolts in the floor on each side of the bowl, unscrew the nuts and remove the washers. Work the toilet loose from the wax gasket that seals it to the drain flange and lift it out. After cleaning the old wax off the drain flange, put a rag in the drain or tape over the flange to keep sewer gases out while you’re working on the new floor.

When you’re ready to install the new toilet, turn the bowl on its side and press a new wax ring around the opening on the bottom of the bowl. If the flange bolts are corroded, slide them out of the slots and replace them. After removing the rag or tape from the drain, position the bowl on the drain opening, and press down firmly, rotating the toilet slightly from side to side to seat it on the flange.

Next, install the washers and nuts on the flange bolts and tighten them up, applying even pressure to each side until the bowl is firmly seated on the flange opening and floor. Be careful not to crack the bowl by over tightening the nuts. If necessary, cut the bolts off with a hacksaw so the plastic covers can fit over them.

Attach the tank to the bowl, using the bolts and rubber gasket supplied with it, followed by the supply line in the bottom of the tank. Open the cut-off valve, fill the tank, and flush the toilet while checking for leaks.

You can find more about removing and replacing a toilet—including a cool tip on how to drain water out of the bowl—in our Bathroom Makeover episode. For information on other toilet repairs, see our article on Repairing a Toilet.

I have a loud hum in our telephone line. The phone company says it’s inside the house. Is there any type of a device that can locate the cause of the problem? - Jim

Hi Jim,
There are a number of things that can cause humming or static in a phone line including a short in the wires, a defective phone, interference from power wires or light fixtures, and a signal from another electrical device. Here how to go about isolating and repairing the problem:

• First, check to be sure the hum is coming from inside your home by opening the telephone interface box, disconnecting the test jack, and plugging a corded phone into it. If you still hear the hum, then the problem is with the phone company. If it stops, the problem is inside your house.
• If it’s inside, plug the house jack back into the interface box and unplug each phone in the house one by one while listening in on another extension. If the hum disappears, the problem is with the phone you unplugged.
• If the hum persists, disconnect each set of wires one by one from the terminals in the interface box, and listen on an extension until the sound stops.
• Once you’ve isolated the problem wires, check the connections at the jack, and try unplugging any electrical devices nearby that could cause interference.
• If you’re still having problems, hook the other two color coded wires in the cable to the jack and interface box.
• As a last resort, permanently unhook the defective wires at the interface box and run a new line from the interface box to the jack.

You can find out more about working with phone lines in the articles How to Install a Phone Jack and Replacing a Telephone Jack on our website.

Hi Robert,

It’s easy to extend a line from an existing phone jack to a new one in another room. Simply unscrew the existing jack from the wall, and attach the color coded wires for the new cable to the matching terminals. Then run the cable to the new jack and attach the matching wires to it.

For more information on hooking up a phone line, see our articles on How to Install a Phone Jack and Replacing a Telephone Jack.

Patching a hole in drywall is a common home repair, but sanding the joint compound smooth before painting can create a lot of dust.

Instead of sanding the patch, consider using a drywall sponge. While it takes a bit longer than sanding, a drywall sponge greatly reduces the amount of dust in the air.

Start by dipping the sponge in warm water and wringing out the excess. Then, using the course side of the sponge, go over the drywall patch in a circular motion.

Rinse the sponge out in the bucket from time to time. As you keep going over it, the joint compound will soften and smooth out the patch. Once it dries, you can paint right over it.

Auto body filler works great for repairing rotten spots in wood since it hardens in a matter of minutes and can be used to fill large areas.

Start by using a chisel to remove the rotten wood. If the hole is large, drive a few nails or screws below the finished surface to give the filler something to grab onto. Next, mix up a batch of filler, and apply it to the hole following the safety instructions on the can. It sets quickly, so don’t mix up more than you can use in a minute or two. Once the filler has set for a few minutes—but before it has time to get really hard—use a sharp chisel or hand plane to remove any excess, then sand it smooth and finish.

While hanging drywall can seem intimidating, with the right tools and techniques, it’s not as difficult as you might imagine. Drywall—also known as wallboard, plasterboard, and by the trade name Sheetrock®—is made from gypsum cement that is covered with paper to give it added strength and a smooth surface.

Drywall comes in thicknesses ranging from ¼” to ¾”, with ½” being the most common. Standard sizes are 4’ x 8’ and 4’x 12’ though 54” widths are available for use on 9’ ceilings. While longer sheets are heavier and hard to deal with, they reduce the number of joints, making finishing easier. Since lifting heavy sheets can be a challenge, consider renting a drywall lift, such as PanelLift, when hanging ceilings.

Apply drywall to the ceiling first then the walls, with long sides at right angles to the framing and the ends centered on studs.

Drywall Tools

Only a few simple tools are needed to cut drywall:

• Measuring tape
• Utility knife
• Straight edge
• Drywall saw
• Drywall keyhole saw
• Drywall rasp or sanding block

Cutting Drywall

Drywall can be cut by either scoring or sawing. Scoring is best for cutting sheets to length or width while sawing is used to cut holes and openings for windows and doors.

Scoring

Scoring is the easiest and least messy method of cutting drywall. Using a straight edge or chalk line as a guide, cut through the paper and into the gypsum on the face side of the sheet with a sharp utility knife.

While supporting the sheet on the back, apply pressure to the face, causing the piece to break cleanly along the joint.

Score the paper on the back with the utility knife to compete the cut.

If needed, use a drywall rasp or sanding block to smooth the cut edge.

Sawing

A drywall saw is used to make cuts for windows and doors while a smaller keyhole saw is perfect for cutting around electrical boxes and other small openings. Make the cuts from the front side when possible to keep from roughing up the paper on the face.

When marking the locations for cuts, follow the old carpenter’s adage of measuring twice and cutting once to avoid making costly mistakes.

Door and Window Cutouts

Since drywall is cut around doors and windows before the casings are attached, a perfect fit isn’t necessary. While professional drywall hangers often use a special high-speed rotary tool to cut around openings with the sheet in place, most do-it-yourself projects will involve measuring and cutting the sheet before it is installed.

Start by measuring horizontally from the corner of the room to the edge of the jamb and transfer the measurement to the drywall. Mark the waste side with an “X” to keep from accidentally cutting the wrong piece. Next, measure vertically down from the ceiling or up from floor and transfer that measurement to the sheet as well.

Mark the drywall on the face with a straightedge and make the shorter of the two cuts with the drywall saw. Next, score the other line and snap off the cut piece.

Electrical Box Cutouts

The holes for electrical boxes need to be a tighter fit than those around windows and doors. The most common method is to measure and mark the location of the cutouts, then draw the outline on the sheet using an extra electrical box as a guide.

Another method is to rub a tube of lipstick around the edge of the box, hold the sheet in place, and press it against the box to transfer the outline to the drywall.

Once the location has been marked, cut around it with a keyhole saw by plunging the sharp point into the sheet. Hold the blade at an angle so the cutout is slightly larger on the back than on the front.

Put the sheet in place and use a utility knife to adjust the fit around the box if needed, keeping the gap 1/8” or less.

Hanging Drywall

Drywall can either be nailed or attached using drywall screws. While nailing is faster, nails tend to work out over time, leaving unsightly bulges in the finished wall. Drywall screws not only stay put, but hold better, so not as many are needed.

Use 1¼” ring shank drywall nails when nailing ½” drywall. A crown-head hammer is used to drive the nails below the surface and denting the drywall without tearing the paper. Position nails ½” from the edge and every 7” for ceilings and 8” for walls.

When attaching drywall with screws, use 1¼” bungle head drywall screws. A drill equipped with an adjustable clutch is used to drive the screws just below the surface without breaking the paper.

Locate screws ½” in from the edges and every 12” for ceilings and 16” for walls. Construction adhesive can be applied to the studs first to give an even stronger bond while reducing the number of screws or nails.

Drywall Tips

Here are a few helpful tips to make your drywall project go more smoothly:

• Have a helper on hand to help with the heavy lifting.
• Use a pencil for marking, since a pen or marker may bleed through paint.
• Keep a sharp blade in the utility knife to cut the paper cleanly.
• Have a trash can nearby for scraps.
• Take breaks and don’t try to do too much, since most mistakes occur when you’re tired.

Doing a good job hanging the drywall will result in less work finishing and a better looking completed project.

Related Articles

• Cutting Drywall Around Outlet Boxes