Regardless of whether the outdoor furniture on your patio or deck is made of wood, aluminum, wrought iron, or plastic; it takes a lot of abuse from the elements including sun, rain, snow, and extreme changes in temperature.

Here are some tips on how to clean and protect the furniture on your deck or patio to keep it looking like new.

Wrought Iron and Metal Furniture

How to Clean:

• Mix up a squirt of dishwashing detergent with a bucket of warm water.



• Scrub surface with a scrub brush.
• Rinse furniture and allow to dry.
• Use a wire brush or sandpaper to remove any rusted spots down to the bare metal.
• Wipe off any metal reside with a clean cloth dampened with mineral spirits or naphtha.
• Spray bare spots with a primer made for metal, such as those made by Rust-Oleum following the directions on the can (wear an approved respirator). Allow surface to dry for recommended time.
• Spray furniture with paint made for metal of the desired color, following the directions on the can (wear an approved respirator).
• Allow paint to dry thoroughly before using furniture.

Aluminum Furniture

How to Remove Oxidation:

• Option #1: Remove light oxidation by rubbing the surface with a 50/50 mixture of white vinegar and water.



• Option #2: Rub the surface with automotive rubbing or polishing compound to abrade away oxidation.
• Option #3: Clean the surface with dishwashing detergent and water using a plastic scrubbing sponge or very fine steel wool. NOTE: Try first on hidden area to see if it scratches the aluminum.
• All options: Rinse off the cleaning solution with a garden hose, and allow to dry.

How to Prevent Oxidation:

• Apply a coat of automotive paste wax to the surface.
• Allow the wax to dry for a few minutes.
• Remove residue and polish surface with a clean cloth.

Plastic and Molded Resin Furniture

How to Clean:

• Dip a sponge in warm water, and squeeze out any excess.
• Sprinkle baking soda on the sponge to act as a mild abrasive.
• Scrub furniture with sponge.
• Rinse furniture with garden hose.
• Allow furniture to dry.

How to Remove Mildew or Mold:

• White Furniture: Apply a solution of one part bleach to four parts water in a pump up sprayer. Leave on for 10-20 minutes, rinse with a garden hose, and allow to dry in full sun.
• Colored Furniture: Apply a solution of 1/4 cup white vinegar to one quart water in a pump up sprayer. Leave on for 10-20 minutes then rinse with a garden hose, and allow to dry in full sun.

How to Restore Shine:

• Apply a coat of automotive paste wax to the surface.
• Allow the wax to dry for a few minutes.
• Wipe off any residue with a clean cloth.

Natural Wood Furniture

How to Clean (Redwood, Cedar, Pine):

• Option #1: Scrub surface with soft scrub brush using special wood cleaner or brightener following the directions on container (wear protective clothing and rubber gloves). Rinse with hose and allow to dry in full sun.
• Option #2: Scrub with mixture of 1/4 cup ammonia and two tablespoons white vinegar in one quart water. Rinse with garden hose and allow to dry in full sun.

How to Clean (Teak):

• Option #1: Apply teak cleaner, following the directions on the container.
• Option #2: Apply mixture of 1/4 cup laundry detergent and one quart bleach to one gallon water. Allow to remain on for 10-20 minutes. Scrub with soft bristled brush and rinse with garden hose.

How to Refinish Teak Furniture:

• Gray Patina: When left unfinished, teak will develop a natural silver patina over time.
• Natural Color: To retain the natural brown color of new teak, apply a special teak protector, teak oil, or teak sealer following the directions on the can. Reapply as needed.

Fabric Cushions

How to Clean Removable Covers:

• Remove covers and follow machine washing instructions on tag.
• Put covers back on cushions while still damp and allow to dry.
• Allow fabric to dry in place to reduce shrinkage.

How to Clean Attached Covers:

• Dissolve a squirt of dishwashing detergent and a teaspoon of borax in one quart warm water.
• Wet down the fabric with the solution and scrub lightly with a sponge or soft bristled scrub brush.
• Allow to soak for 10-20 minutes.
• Rinse cushions using a garden hose with sprayer.
• Allow cushions to fully dry.

How to Remove Mold and Mildew:

• White Fabric: Remove mildew by applying a solution of one part chlorine bleach to four parts water. Allow to soak for 10 minutes, then rinse off with garden hose, and allow to dry in full sun. If cushions are machine washable, add recommended amount of bleach to washer. NOTE: Do not use chlorine bleach on colored fabrics.
• Colored Fabric: Wash in machine or soak with diluted color safe, non-chlorine bleach or oxygen bleach. Rinse thoroughly and allow to dry in full sun.

Related posts:

• How to Clean Outdoor Patio Furniture
• How to Clean, Sharpen, and Maintain Garden Tools
• Exterior Multi-Surface Cleaner

Cleaning and repairing the outside of your home doesn’t have to be a spring project, though it is nice to get outside and enjoy the warm weather after a long, cold winter spent inside. Here are some often neglected outdoor maintenance projects you might want to consider tackling.

Clean Exterior

A pressure washer can make quick work of cleaning the outside of your home, but be careful since the extremely high pressure can damage wood and other softer materials.

While scrubbing is not necessary with a pressure washer, adding detergent to the reservoir on the machine serves to loosen stubborn dirt and get the job done faster. Be sure to use a cleaner that is made for pressure washers and intended for the type of surface you’re cleaning. Cleaners are available for specific applications such as siding, decks, and masonry surfaces.

If mold or mildew is present, spray it with a product such as SporiCLEAN or Concrobium. A mixture of 1 part bleach to 4 parts water can also be effective on mold on nonporous surfaces. Wear protective clothing and rubber gloves when working with bleach or other harmful chemicals, and cover or wet down any plants or grass with water before applying. Allow the bleach mixture to remain on for 10 – 15 minutes, then wash it off with a hose or pressure washer.

Repair Driveway

Driveways and sidewalks need periodic maintenance, too.

• Start by removing any grass or weeds that are encroaching on the driveway or growing in cracks.
• Follow this by a thorough cleaning with a pressure washer to remove dirt and grime.
• Next, patch any cracks or holes in concrete surfaces with a concrete resurfacer.
• Worn asphalt drives can be restored by applying a coat of latex asphalt sealer to make them look good as new.

Clean Deck

Wood decks take a lot of abuse from the elements, and they need a good cleaning from time to time to look their best.

• Start by applying a specially formulated deck cleaner in a pump up sprayer.
• Once it has had time to work, clean the deck with a pressure washer—being careful not to damage the wood—or a long handled scrub brush.
• Rinse the deck, and allow it to dry.
• If refinishing is needed, apply a sealer or stain with a pump up sprayer, going over it with a brush to smooth it out.
• Allow the sealer to dry thoroughly before using the deck.

Clean and Repair Screens

Window screens can be cleaned by soaking them in a child’s wading pool filled with soapy water, followed by a gentle scrubbing with a soft scrub brush on a flat surface. As a final step, rinse the screen with a garden hose using a fine spray setting to keep from damaging the screen.

To repair small holes in screens, flatten the fibers out and brush on several coats of clear fingernail polish for a seamless repair. Large tears or holes are best fixed by removing the rubber spline from the screen frame and installing a new piece of screen using a screen spline roller tool.

Repair Roof

Spring is also a good time to examine your roof to see if winter snow and ice have caused any problems that need attention.

• Look for torn or missing shingles that might need replacement or repair.
• Pay particular attention to flashing around chimneys, plumbing vents, and other openings that are prone to leaks. Seal any gaps with roofing cement.
• Cover exposed nail heads with a dab roofing cement.
• Remove leaves, sticks, or other debris that has built up in valleys and against chimneys, porches, or dormers.

Ready the Grill

Whether its charcoal or gas, spring is a good time to get the grill ready for action.

• Use a wire brush and degreasing detergent to clean the wire racks and inside of the grill and remove any rust that has formed over the winter.
• Inspect burners on gas grills for deterioration from rust, and clean the surface. Make sure the holes in the burners aren’t clogged. If necessary, use a small piece of wire to clean them out.
• If the outside of the grill needs painting, prepare it first by lightly sanding the surface and washing it thoroughly to remove all grease. Once it’s totally dry, coat it with a high heat spray paint (often called barbecue and stove enamel).

Clean and Repair Gutters

Gutters are an often overlooked project that needs special attention in the spring. To clean and repair them:

• Make a homemade gutter scoop by cutting down a narrow plastic container such as an antifreeze jug, and use it to remove the bulk of the debris.
• Rinse out gutters without leaving the ground, by making a U-shaped gutter spray wand from ½” or ¾” PVC pipe and couplings. Glue a cap to one end of the pipe with several small holes drilled in it, then use two 90° elbow fittings to create the proper shape, with a threaded adaptor on the other end attached to a garden hose.
• Downspouts have a tendency to clog, so check them by running water through them, and use a plumber’s snake to unclog if needed.
• Check for leaks at gutter joints. When dry, repair gutter leaks from inside the gutter with gutter sealant.

Clean Windows

Spring pollen and dirt can work a number on your windows, so take the time to wash them down and clean them once the pollen has settled.

• Work in the shade to keep the cleaner from drying out too quickly.
• A 50/50 mix of white vinegar and water makes a great natural window cleaner.
• Use crumpled up newspaper, rather than paper towels, to clean and dry your windows.

Watch Danny’s CBS Early Show segment on:
Save as You Prep Your Home for Spring

Related posts:

• How to Clean a Gas Grill
• How to Clean Outdoor Patio and Deck Furniture
• How to Clean Outdoor Patio Furniture

Updating and improving the look of your home doesn’t have to put a strain on your budget. By using recycled or reused materials, along with a little imagination and creativity, you can make a big difference in your home for a very small investment. Here are seven simple DIY projects to get you started.

Where to Find Items to Reuse and Renew

There are a number of sources for used and discarded items, such as:

• Thrift stores
• Secondhand consignment shops
• Goodwill
• Salvage companies
• Habit for Humanity ReStores
• Online at The Freecycle Network
• Yard and garage sales
• Classified ads online and in newspapers
• Remodeling site dumpsters

How to Refinish a Ceiling Fan

Instead of throwing an outdated ceiling fan in the trash, consider refinishing it to make it look like new. Here’s how to go about it:

• Disassemble the fan components you plan to paint.
• Clean all the parts with denatured alcohol to remove any dust or grease.
• Rub metal surfaces with fine steel wool to remove the gloss.
• Lay all of the pieces out and spray with several light coats of spray paint for metal.
• Reassemble the fan components except the blades.
• Reattach the fan to the ceiling.
• Attach the blades and balance if needed.

How to Refurbish Old Furniture

Kendra Bennett is a homeowner who has a knack for taking old objects and transforming them into something new. She found an old credenza for $20 at a yard sale. After stripping off the black finish and refinishing it, the piece was converted into this unique conversation piece for her home.

The two cabinet doors in the center of the piece were removed and replaced by wine racks. As an accent, two wooden window frames were backed by mirrors then mounted on the wall above it. The whole project only cost $150 dollars and a little imagination.

How to Make a Fireplace Screen

To hide a fireplace from view during the summer, create a simple fireplace screen by hinging together discarded shutters found at a salvage store. Here’s how to go about it:

• Clean, sand, and make any repairs to the shutters.
• Apply two coats of interior paint and allow to dry.
• Link the shutters together with brass cabinet hinges.
• For screens of more than three shutters, install each pair of hinges on alternating sides so the screen can be folded up like an accordion when not in use.

The project was completed in less than a day for under $10.

How to Personalize a Child’s Chair

Lisa Brodie also enjoys giving new life to old pieces of furniture. Some of her favorite items are small chairs made for children. Here’s how to go about it:

• Clean the chair to make sure all of the dust and loose finish is removed.
• Apply a coat of primer and allow to dry.
• Apply two coats of paint.
• Decorate the chair as desired with contrasting colors and patterns.
• Personalize the piece with the child’s name.
• For a more durable finish, apply a final coat of clear finish (brushed or sprayed) to the painted surface.

How to Refinish a Wicker Chair

To make an old wicker chair new again:

• Use an air compressor to blow off dirt and dust out of cracks.
• Clean surface with a scrub brush and denatured alcohol.
• Use a hot glue gun to reattach broken or loose caning.
• Apply several light coats of spray paint, letting it dry for the recommended time between coats.
• Allow the paint to dry completely for several before using. A fan can help speed up the process.
• Store any leftover paint to use for touch up later.

How to Build a Headboard

To turn a discarded column and some leftover lumber into a headboard:

• Mark the cuts around the column with painter’s tape.
• Cut the column to length using a reciprocating saw.
• Construct a cubbyhole shadow box for the headboard from 1×6 lumber.
• Use 2×12 lumber for the feet and caps.
• Assemble the columns to the headboard.
• Paint the headboard and allow to dry.
• Use screws to attach the headboard to the wall studs.

Since all of the material used in the headboard was discarded or scrap, the project cost next to nothing.

How to Pour Concrete Stepping Stones

To make personalized concrete stepping stones for your yard:

• Cut down a 5-gallon bucket with a jigsaw to use as a mold.
• Spray lubricating oil around the inside of the mold to prevent the concrete from adhering.
• Mix up concrete and fill the mold with it.
• Smooth off the top of the concrete using a board as a screed.
• Customize the concrete while wet with handprints, decorations, or masonry dye.
• Allow concrete to dry before removing stepping stone from the mold.

Other Tips from This Episode

Related posts:

• How to Paint a Wicker Chair
• Tips for Refinishing Children’s Furniture
• How to Make a Headboard from an Old Column

Extreme cold weather can be hard on both you and your home. Here are some tips to put into practice when freezing weather, snow, and ice hit your area.

How to Deal with Frozen Pipes

• Disconnect and drain garden hoses.
• Cover outside faucets with insulating foam covers.
• Turn off water to outside faucets, if available, and open valves on faucets to allow them to drain.
• Turn off sprinkler system and blow compressed air through the lines to drain them.



• Close or cover foundation vents under house and windows to basements.
• Close garage doors.
• Insulate exposed pipes (both hot and cold) under house with foam pipe insulation.
• Open cabinet doors under sinks.
• Drip hot and cold faucets in kitchen and bath. Drip single control faucets with lever set in middle.
• Set icemaker to make ice if the water line to it runs under the house.
• Don’t forget to check on pipes to your washing machine in the laundry room
• Locate water main cut-off valve, and have a cut-off key handy.
• Use a hair dryer, heat lamp, electric heat tape, or a portable space heater to thaw frozen pipes that have not burst.
• Keep the faucet open when thawing frozen pipes to allow water to begin flowing through it.
• After the weather has warmed above freezing and any frozen pipes have thawed, turn off dripping faucets and monitor your water meter to check for unseen leaks.

How to Keep Warm in Your Home

• Have your furnace inspected before cold weather arrives. Inspect the heat exchanger for cracks, install a clean air filter, and check the thermostat to see if it’s working properly.



• Inspect fireplaces, and chimneys before using, and have them cleaned if needed.
• Keep drapes and blinds closed, except when windows are in direct sunlight.
• Put up storm windows, or install sheet plastic window insulation kits on the inside of windows.
• Cover or remove any window air conditioners.
• Insulate electrical outlets and switches on exterior walls with foam seals available at home centers.
• Caulk any cracks or holes on the outside of your house.
• Repair or replace weather stripping and thresholds around doors and windows.
• Run paddle ceiling fans on low in reverse (clockwise when looking up) to circulate warm air.
• Put draft snakes on window sills, between window frames, and against doors.
• If you heat with propane or fuel oil, make sure the tank is full.
• If you heat with wood or coal, have plenty of fuel on hand.

How to Protect the Outside of Your Home

• Clean your gutters and downspouts before cold weather arrives to prevent ice from forming in them.
• Spray an ice repellent solution on steps and walks before freezing weather arrives
• Check antifreeze levels in cars. Add if needed, then run the engine to circulate the new antifreeze through the radiator and engine block.
• Add freeze resistant windshield wiper fluid, and spay to circulate it in lines.
• Check air pressure in tires, since cold weather causes the pressure to lower.
• Bring in container plants, add mulch around plants, and cover plants that are prone to frost damage. Remove covering when temperatures warm above freezing.
• Drain birdbaths and fountains
• Gently sweep snow off plants and shrubs in an upward motion with a broom.
• Use rock salt, sand, or clay based kitty litter on walks and drives (NOTE: Salt can damage grass and other plants).
• Don’t overdo it when using a snow shovel.
• Stay off your roof during freezing weather, but once the ice and snow have melted, inspect your roof for any damage.

How to Stay Safe in an Ice or Snow Storm

• Stockpile nonperishable food and water.
• Refill prescription medications in advance of storm.
• Fill car with gas.
• Charge cell phones.
• Have flashlights, batteries, a weather radio, and a manual can opener on hand.
• A portable generator can come in handy when the lights go out, but take precautions to avoid carbon monoxide poisoning when using.
• Make sure you have working smoke and carbon monoxide alarms and the batteries powering them are fresh.
• Have a working fire extinguisher on hand for emergencies.
• A chain saw can come in handy for removing broken limbs after an ice storm.

Watch Danny’s CBS Early Show segment on:
How to Protect Your Home from the Cold

Related posts:

• (689) Your Home and the Weather
• How to Keep Koi Fish in a Pond During Freezing Weather
• How to Protect Windows from Wind Damage

Over 400,000 residential home fires occurred in the United States in 2008—one every 78 seconds. They resulted in 2,755 deaths, over 13,000 injuries, and $8.5 billion in property damage. In addition hundreds more die each year from carbon monoxide poisoning.

Lipford after escaping blaze.

While cooking is the main cause of house fires, heating equipment surpasses it during the winter months.

There are a number of steps you can take to reduce the chance of becoming one of these grim statistics, including:

• Residential sprinkler system
• Smoke detectors
• Carbon monoxide detectors
• Fire extinguishers
• Escape ladder for multistory homes
• Annual inspection of fireplace and furnace

Sprinkler Systems

Though often overlooked when building or remodeling a home, a residential fire sprinkler system is the best way to protect your home from fire. While smoke alarms can warn you of a fire when you are home, it’s up to you to heed the alarm and take the appropriate action. A sprinkler system, on the other hand, acts to put out the fire in the crucial minutes when a fire first starts, whether you are home at the time or not.

Since sprinklers are activated by heat, not smoke, only the units that are located closest to the fire come on when a fire occurs. In 90% of the homes equipped with a sprinkler system that experienced a fire, only one sprinkler was needed to control the blaze, limiting water damage to the home.

The cost of installing a sprinkler system in a new home averages $1.61 per square foot, or a little over $3,000 for a 2,000 square foot home. In addition, having a sprinkler system installed in your home can result in a 5% to 30% reduction in your homeowner insurance fire protection.

More information on sprinkler systems can be found on the Home Fire Sprinkler Coalition website.

Smoke Detectors

In addition, every home should be equipped with smoke detectors to alert you in case of a fire.

The three main types of smoke alarms are:

• Optical: Better for detecting smoldering fires.
• Ionization: Better for detecting flaming fires.
• Combination: Contains both detectors to provide protection from smoldering and flaming fires.

How to Install Smoke Detectors:

• Install at least one smoke detector on each level of your home, with one located in or near each bedroom.
• Locate alarms on or near the ceiling and away from the corners of the room.
• Change batteries every 6 to 12 months.
• Clean detectors annually by gently vacuuming or blowing with canned air.
• Replace smoke detectors every 10 years.

Carbon Monoxide Detectors

Carbon Monoxide (CO) is an odorless, colorless poisonous gas that is generated by fire or combustion.

Sources of carbon monoxide include:

• Natural gas and propane appliances such as stoves, space heaters, and water heaters.
• Gas, fuel oil, wood, or coal burning furnaces and heaters.
• Gas and wood burning fireplaces.
• Fires in your home.
• Gasoline and diesel powered engines used on cars, boats, and generators.

Fire Extinguishers

A multipurpose (ABC) fire extinguisher should be easily accessible all times in your home, especially in the kitchen.

ABC fire extinguishers can be used on:

• Combustible materials including wood, cloth, and paper.
• Flammable liquids like oil and gasoline.
• Electrical fires from wiring and electrical equipment.

When using a fire extinguisher, remember the acronym PASS, which stands for:

• Pull the pin on the extinguisher.
• Aim the nozzle at the base of the fire.
• Squeeze the handle to discharge the chemical agent.
• Sweep the extinguisher from side to side across the fire.

Escape Ladders

Two-story homes should have an easily accessible escape ladder on the upper story. To use an escape ladder:

• Take out the ladder.
• Open the window.
• Lock the ladder in place.
• Secure the ladder over the edge of the window sill.
• Pull the tab to release the ladder.
• Climb carefully down the ladder to safety.

Annual Inspection

Finally, it’s important to have your fireplace and furnace inspected annually by a trained professional before cold weather arrives.

• Fireplaces and chimneys should be checked for blockage, damage to the bricks and mortar, and creosote build-up. If excessive creosote is found, the chimney should be cleaned.
• Furnaces should be checked to be sure the burner and combustion chamber are in good condition and the unit is vented properly.

Watch Danny’s CBS Early Show segment on:
Lessons Learned from a Burning House

Further Information

• Home Fire Sprinkler Coalition
• National Fire Protection Association
• Home Safety Council
• U.S. Fire Administration
• (686) Safe at Home
• Home Holiday Safety Tips

Related posts:

• Home Holiday Safety Tips
• How to Install Carbon Monoxide Detectors in Your Home
• (716) Safe Home

Everyone loves decorating and entertaining over the holidays, but the constant influx of visitors can take a toll on your home. Here are some suggestions for dealing with the mess and repairing the damage that’s left behind.

How to Remove Stains from Carpet and Flooring

With holiday cheer in full swing, spills and ground in grime on your carpet are a given. When trying to clean up a mess on your rug, it’s important to tackle the problem as soon as possible and plan on having to treat the stain several times to remove it.

Red Wine and Food Stains

Start by blotting the spill with paper towels or a clean cloth to soak up as much as possible, or use a wet/dry vac to suck up spills and food. To remove any remaining stain, try one or more of the following options:

• Apply white wine to dilute a red wine stain, followed by additional cleaning.
• Wet down red wine stains with club soda, then blot or vacuum the spill to remove.
• Combine 1 teaspoon dishwashing soap with 1 cup of 3% hydrogen peroxide in a small bowl. Soak the spot and allow it to remain on for several hours, then blot or vacuum up the residue. Hydrogen peroxide may bleach colors, so test it on an inconspicuous spot first.
• Combine 1/4 cup of white vinegar with 3/4 cup water and use sponge to gently clean rug or carpet.

Chewing Gum

Gum can be hard to remove. The trick is to cool the gum to harden it or heat the gum to soften it before attempting to remove it. Here are your two options:

• Place an ice cube in a plastic bag on the gum until it hardens, then scrape the gum from the carpet using a dull knife or expired credit card.
• Use a hair dryer to heat the gum, then use a plastic bag to pull it off.

Candle Wax

Candle wax is easier to remove when hot or cold as well. Here’s how to go about it:

• Harden the wax with an ice cube in a plastic bag, then carefully scrape it off with a dull knife or expired credit card.
• Apply paper towels to the spot. Use a clothes iron to heat up the wax which is then absorbed by the paper towels. Change out the paper towels until all the wax has been removed.

How to Remove Water Stains on Table Tops

Water stains on wood can be divided into white or dark stains. A dark stain means the water has penetrated through the finish into the wood and is hard to remove without stripping and sanding the surface. White stains indicate the water is trapped between the layers of finish or under was. Try these methods to eliminate white water stains:

• Try waiting a day or two to see if the water stain will dry out and disappear on its own.
• If not, try covering the stain with mayonnaise, leave on overnight, and wipe off.
• If it’s still there, wipe the top down with a cloth dampened with mineral spirits to remove any wax that might have trapped the moisture.
• Try wiping the spot lightly with a cloth dampened with denatured alcohol. Don’t overdo it, as alcohol can soften some finishes.
• As a last resort, place a dry cotton cloth over the stain and go over it with a warm iron (no steam). Heat it enough to cause the moisture to evaporate but not so much as to damage the finish.

NOTE: Test solvents on an inconspicuous spot on the furniture first, to be sure they won’t damage the finish.

How to Repair Dings on Furniture and Wood Floors

Touch-up kits and markers are available to repair small scratches, nicks, and dings on wood floors or furniture, or you can try homemade fixes.

• Go over the scratch with a furniture touch up pen that matches the color of the finish, wipe off any excess with a cloth before it dries. A brown permanent marker will work as well, if you can find the right shade to match the wood.



• Rub the spot with a matching color shoe polish on a soft rag, let dry and wipe off any excess.
• Fill nicks and small gouges with wax filler sticks that match the color of the finish, use a soft cloth to remove any excess. Brown crayons will work as well. If you don’t have an exact color match, a darker color blends in better than a lighter one.
• Fill deep gouge with color matched wood putty, or by mixing a bit of sawdust and colorant with epoxy glue.
• Fill gouges by melting a matching colored shellac burn-in stick on the surface using a match, lighter, soldering iron, or burn-in knife. Carefully scrape off any excess with a sharp chisel, then smooth the surface by applying additional heat.

How to Repair a Broken Ornament or China

Here are some tips for repairing a cherished Christmas ornament or family heirloom china:

• The best glue to use is either instant glue or clear 5-minute epoxy, since they require shorter setting times when holding irregular objects in place by hand.
• Weldbond and EcoGlue are nontoxic glues that can also be used for gluing broken objects.
• To hold irregular objects in place while the glue sets, try molding modeling clay around the item.
• Spring loaded clothes pins and rubber bands work great for clamping small objects while the glue is setting up.

Finally, remember that accidents happen to everyone, so try to keep your cool and enjoy the spirit of the season.

Watch Danny’s CBS Early Show segment on:
Avoiding Holiday Home Damage

Further Information

• Home Holiday Safety Tips
• Furniture Repair (OakPlus Furniture)
• Carpet Stain Removal Guide (howtoremovecarpetstains.com)

Related posts:

• How to Remove Water Stains from Furniture
• How to Repair a Scratch or Gouge in a Hardwood Floor
• How to Darken a Natural Wood Finish on Cabinets or Furniture

With the feel of fall in the air, it’s time to think about getting your home ready for colder weather. Much of the routine maintenance that needs to be done this time of year will not only help keep you cozy this winter, it will also save money on your heating bill and protect your biggest investment—your home.

While most of these routine maintenance tasks are fairly simple, make sure they get done before cold weather arrives to prevent damage to both your home and wallet.

Seal Up Cracks and Gaps

If you added up all the small cracks, gaps, and holes around the outside of the average home, it would equal the area of an open window! To reduce the loss of heat, carefully inspect the perimeter of your home and caulk or weather-strip where needed. Both caulking and weather stripping can reduce the flow of cold air in and warm air out—lowering your energy costs substantially.

Check the following key areas for leaks:

• Around door and window frames.
• Exterior openings including electrical outlets, phone lines, outside faucets, and cable TV lines.
• Around heating and/or cooling units.
• The seal around room air conditioners.
• At corners formed by siding.
• Openings around drain pipes in bathrooms and kitchens.

How to Caulk

Now that you’ve identified the problem areas around your home, it’s time to seal them up:

• Start by cleaning the surface to remove dirt, loose paint, and old caulk.
• Determine which caulk to use based on the size of crack or gap and the surrounding material. Read our article on A Homeowner’s Guide to Caulk to find out more.
• Cut the tip off the tube of caulking at a 45° angle and load it into the caulking gun. Since the tip is tapered, the more you cut off, the wider the bead of caulk.
• Use a long nail or the puncture tool found on caulking guns to break the inner seal.
• Apply a uniform bead of caulk to the gap, making sure it covers both sides and completely fills the crack.
• Remove any excess then smooth the bead of caulk with your finger before it begins to set.
• Insert a tight fitting nail in the end of the tube of caulking to prevent it from drying out.

Applying Weather Stripping

Apply weather stripping at joints where two surfaces meet, such as around windows and doors, to give an airtight seal. There are several different types of weather stripping and each has its benefits and drawbacks. After you have chosen the appropriate weather stripping, follow the instructions that came with it for proper application.

• Tape – lasts only one year and should only be used on windows or doors that will not be opened. Tends to dry and loosen within one heating season
• Felt – lasts only one or two years and should be used on top or side of doors or window frames for sealing gaps of uniform width
• Foam – lasts only one or two years and should be used on the bottom of window sashes or around the frame of a warped or loose-fitting door (wood-backed foam)
• Tubular gasket and vinyl tubing – lasts around five years and can be used on windows or doors.

For more information on caulking and weather stripping, watch our video on How to Caulk and Seal Gaps and Cracks.

Inspect Your Roof

Check your roof for signs of minor damage such as missing, broken, cracked, or curling shingles, as well as bare spots where the granular coating has worn off. Be sure to make the necessary minor repairs now to prevent further damage. When moisture is able to seep up and under loose or damaged shingles far more expensive damage can occur. For extensive roof repairs, consider having a professional perform the work. However, if you are fairly handy and are comfortable climbing a ladder, you should be able to take care of most minor repairs.

Purchase roofing cement in caulking tubes to seal minor cracks and holes and glue down curled shingles. For bigger jobs, roofing cement is available in large containers. If the damage is extensive, or the shingle is missing, replace it immediately to prevent more serious damage from occurring. Also, if you have a fireplace, be sure to check for gaps around the flashing and caulk to seal.

Clean and Repair Gutters

Dirty, clogged gutters can cause a myriad of problems during the winter months including flooded basements and damage to your foundation and landscaping. To clean, simply remove all debris so that water can drain properly and consider installing gutter guards to prevent additional debris from building up. To see how it’s done, watch our video on How to Clean Gutters. More information on gutters can be found in our article on The Trouble with Gutters.

If you don’t enjoy climbing ladders, consider assembling a homemade gutter cleaner using long strips of PVC pipe attached to a regular garden hose. This will allow you to frequently and safely rinse out your gutters ensuring they do not become clogged. To see how it’s done, watch our video on how to make a PVC Gutter Cleaner

Trim Back Trees and Bushes

Trimming your trees and hedges in the fall not only leaves you with less mess, it also improves the appearance of your shrubbery and can prevent or correct a safety hazard. While power tools are terrific (and a must for a large number of trees and bushes) most seasonal pruning and trimming can be taken care of with a few affordable hand tools.

Hand pruners, hedge trimmers, loping shears, and a pruning saw will take care of most small branches and limbs. First look for and remove dead or diseased limbs, then cut back excessive growth and trim the bush into the desired shape. Read our article on Basic Shrub Pruning Techniques to see how it’s done.

For taller trees and thicker limbs, consider calling in a professional especially if branches are dangerously close to power lines. You may also consider contacting your town or utility company, as major tree trimming may be their responsibility.

Fertilize Your Lawn

Fall is a great time to fertilize your lawn as it provides grass with the nutrients required for the winter when the top layer of grass is dormant but the root systems continue to grow. During this period roots easily absorb and store the nutrients a good fertilizer will provide and fall fertilizing will also help your lawn “green-up” faster in early spring.

Depending on your part of the country and the type of grass you have, the correct fertilizer for your lawn many vary. However, almost all zones and lawn types require a fertilizer rich in nitrogen and phosphorus. Nitrogen affects the color, rooting, and disease resistance of a lawn, and a yellowish appearance may signal a nitrogen deficiency. Phosphorus is the key for strong roots and a lawn deficient in Phosphorus may have an unusual tint that may be on the purple side. A lawn rich in phosphorus will fight disease better and be more tolerant to extreme elements.

For more on fertilizing your yard, check out our article on Fertilizer 101 or watch our videos on Fertilizer Selection and Fertilizer Application

Storing Your Lawnmower

Now that you’ve cut your grass for the final time this year, take a few minutes to properly store your lawnmower so it will start easily in the spring. First, completely remove all fuel by either draining the gas tank or running it empty. Alternatively, consider adding a fuel conditioner and topping up the gas tank to prevent any moisture from condensing in the tank. Once you have added the conditioner, run the engine for a minute or two to circulate the additive through the carburetor. This will help prevent gum from forming in the fuel system or on essential carburetor parts.

Next remove spark plugs and apply a small amount of oil in the cylinder. Start your engine to burn off oil as well as lubricate the pistons, rings, and cylinder walls. Finally, wipe your lawnmower clean of all grass and debris and be sure to store it in a clean, dry area far away from any stove, furnace, water heater, or other appliance that uses a pilot light or can create a spark.

More information on maintaining your lawnmower is available in our article on Lawn Mower Maintenance

Related posts:

• Fall Yard and Garden Maintenance
• Fall Lawn Care Guide
• Lawn Mower Maintenance

Walk down the hardware aisle of any home center, and you’ll find an overpowering array of wall anchors and picture hangers. While it’s easy enough to drive a nail or screw through drywall and into a stud, many homeowners have problems figuring out how to secure items to the wall between studs or in hard surfaces like brick or concrete.

Here’s what you need to know about using wall anchors and picture hangers in your home.

Wall Materials

The type of anchor you use is often determined by the wall material. Drywall or wood paneling require little to drill or nail into while delicate surfaces like plaster take more finesse and hard materials, like masonry and concrete, require more muscle.

Drywall

Drywall alone has little holding power. When attaching lightweight objects (20 pounds or less), standard picture hangers or wire hangers work fine and do little damage to the wall. For medium weight items (20-40 pounds) consider a spreading type ribbed plastic anchors or threaded anchors. Heavy objects (over 40 pounds) require a fastener that distributes the weight behind the wall, such as a toggle or molly bolt.

Plaster

While a plaster wall may resemble drywall, it’s a much harder surface prone to cracking. Always predrill holes in plaster and avoid using fasters that apply pressure to the sides of the hole. For lightweight objects (under 3-5 pounds) consider adhesive hangers which don’t require a hole at all.

Wood

Fasteners attached to solid wood and plywood have great holding power if the material is thick enough. For thinner walls, such as plywood paneling, use robust fasteners like toggle or molly bolts or plastic anchors that spread out behind the wall. While nails do well in wood, screws provide much greater holding power and are easier to remove, though they do leave a larger hole in the wall. When nailing or screwing into wood, always drill a pilot hole first to keep it from splitting.

Masonry and Concrete

Plastic anchors or special hardened masonry nails are your best bet for attaching to these hard materials. Use a special carbide tipped masonry drill bit to predrill a hole for the fastener (a hammer drill does the job much faster and easier). Drill a smaller pilot hole first, then switch to a larger size bit to finish the job. On brick walls it’s easier to drill into the mortar joint than the brick itself, though the brick has greater holding power if it doesn’t break.

Wall Anchors and Fasteners

The different types of wall anchors and picture hangers that are commonly available include:

• Toggle Bolts: These robust fasteners come in a variety of lengths and bolt diameters depending on the amount of weight they are intended to support and the thicknesses of the wall they are used on. While able to support over 300 pounds in drywall in our tests, toggle bolts require an oversized hole in order to insert the spring loaded fastener. This prevents the bolt from fitting tightly in the hole and leaves a large hole when the fastener is removed.



• Threaded Toggle: These self-drilling fasteners are an improvement over standard toggle bolts since the shaft of the fastener fits tightly in the hole. Threaded toggles are easy to install, though they can be a bit tricky to remove, and safely supported over 200 pounds in drywall in our tests. On the downside, they leave a nice sized hole in the wall (though not as large as standard toggle bolts), and are expensive. For increased holding power, and to aid in removal, install with the long arm of the toggle pointing up.



• Molly Bolts: These often used fasteners are inserted in a hole drilled in the wall, or can be hammered directly into drywall without drilling. Molly bolts achieve their holding power by tightening up the bolt, which causes the casing to expand behind the wall. While supporting over 100 pounds in our tests, molly bolts have an annoying tendency to spin in drywall when being tightened and are impossible to remove once installed. Like toggles, they come in various lengths depending on the wall thickness.



• Threaded Anchors: These new fasteners on the scene are mainly used for drywall, with their deep threads providing increased holding power. They’re available in either brass or nylon, with a picture hook or center screw include with them. Threaded anchors are screwed directly into drywall and supported up to 80 pounds in drywall in our tests. While they provide good holding power and are easy to install and remove, threaded anchors leave a large hole in the wall behind.



• Plastic Anchors: While working well in dense materials—like masonry, concrete, brick, or concrete block—plastic anchors don’t provide as much holding power in softer surfaces like drywall as other types of wall anchors. If they are used on drywall, choose a ridged type of plastic anchor that flares out behind the wall. Once the anchor has been hammered into a hole drilled in the wall, a screw is inserted into the center that expands to press against the sides of the hole.



• Picture Hangers: Standard metal picture hangers have been around for years. They feature an angled nail that fits in the hook to increase their holding power. Picture hangers are inexpensive and available in a wide range of sizes. They supported between 40-60 pounds in drywall in our tests. While they don’t hold as much weight as other fasteners, picture hangers are simple to install and easy to remove with little lasting damage to the wall.



• Wire Hangers: Sold under brand names like Hercules Hook, and Monkey Hook, these lightweight fasteners consists of a curved steel wire that can be installed in seconds without tools. While some brands claim to hold as much as 150 pounds, they supported less than 50 pounds in drywall in our tests. Since most pictures weigh considerably less than that, wire hangers work well for light items. They are easy to remove and leave little damage but only work on hollow walls with no obstructions.



• Adhesive Strips: Adhesive hangers and hooks, such as 3M Command Strips, can be used to attach lightweight items without making a hole in the wall at all. . Adhesive strips will adhere to most smooth surfaces but they aren’t suited for bricks and other porous materials. They are rated for items weighing less than 3-5 pounds.

Watch Danny’s CBS Early Show segment on:
The Secret to a Straight Frame

Further Information

• Testing Wall Anchors and Picture Hangers (article)
• How to Hang Pictures Right the First Time (article)
• Simple Jig for Hanging Pictures in Your Home (video)
• Keeping Picture Frames Level (video)

Related posts:

• How to Install Wall Anchors in Drywall

Painting a room is one of the most common do-it-yourself projects around the home. While it’s not that difficult to do, it helps to know the tricks of the trade on how to go about it before breaking out a roller or brush.

When painting a room, the work should be done in the following order:

1. Prep: Clean surfaces and repair any defects.
2. Prime: Where needed, prime the walls and trim.
3. Caulk: Fill any gaps or cracks with caulk.
4. Ceiling: Paint ceiling first to prevent drips on walls.
5. Walls: Apply paint to walls using a roller.
6. Trim: Paint trim last to avoid roller splatter.
7. Cleanup: Clean brushes and rollers, remove drop cloths, and replace furnishings.

Painting Preparation

Walls

Interior walls are usually painted with latex paint and can usually be repainted without priming unless the existing walls are:

• Painted a dark or vibrant color.
• Have stains, grease, or other hard to cover marks.
• Defects in the drywall have been patched.
• Previously painted with oil-based paint.

In these cases, prime first with a stain blocking primer. To cover repairs, you may be able to spot prime without having to prime the entire room.

Before painting, shine a bright light along the surface of the wall to check for dents or defects, and fill them using a putty knife and spackling compound. Once the spackling has dried, sand the surface smooth. On rough surfaces dab the patched area with paint on a sponge or rag to mimic the texture of the wall.

Trim

In older homes, interior trim was painted with oil-based enamel, but improvements in the durability of latex enamel now make it the popular choice. Before painting over oil-based paint with latex, it’s important to prime the surface so the new paint will adhere properly.

To determine if the old paint is oil-based or latex, rub it with a rag dampened with denatured alcohol. If the paint comes off on the rag, it’s latex. If not, it’s oil-based.

Caulking

When caulking gaps or cracks:

• Remove loose old caulking with a utility knife, scraper, or putty knife.
• Use a good caulking gun that can stop and start the flow of caulking easily.
• A quality acrylic latex caulk works best for caulking trim in most rooms.
• For high moisture areas, such as kitchens and baths, use a caulking that is mold and mildew resistant.
• 100% silicone caulk should only be used on surfaces that will not be painted, such as between the tub and tile in a bathroom.
• Apply caulk only to dry surfaces and when the temperature is over 50° F.

To apply caulking to a gap or crack:

• Cut the tip of the caulking tube to a 45° angle so the hole is the width of the crack.
• Puncture the seal in the tube several times using a nail or the seal punch on a caulking gun.
• Hold the caulking gun at a 45° angle so the opening in the tube is parallel to the surface.
• Lay down a smooth, even bead of caulk with little or no excess.
• Smooth the bead with your finger before it sets up. Dampening your finger with water (latex caulk) or mineral spirits (silicone caulk) can make smoothing easier.
• Allow caulking to dry thoroughly before painting or getting wet.

Painting a Room

Once the room has been prepped and you’re ready to paint:

• Remove furniture, wall hangings, light switch and receptacle covers.
• Apply safe release painter’s tape along baseboards and around window and door trim.
• Cover floor with tarp or plastic sheeting.
• Cut in ceiling edges and around light fixtures with brush.
• Paint ceiling with roller. Unpainted textured ceilings may be hard to paint.
• Mix the gallons of wall paint together in a 5-gallon bucket.
• Cut in the walls with a brush around the ceiling, switches and plugs, windows and doors, baseboards, and along inside corners.
• Use a quality roller and cover with a ½” to ¾” nap.



• Hook roller screen over the side of 5-gallon bucket.
• Dip roller in bucket and use screen to remove excess.
• Start at one corner of room and apply paint vertically to the wall over a 2’ wide area.
• Use light pressure on the roller at first, then press harder as the roller becomes less saturated with paint. Move the roller at a moderate pace to prevent splattering.
• Go back over the area to spread and even out the paint.
• Dip the roller in the bucket again and move to the adjoining 2’ area. Keep a wet edge between each section and smooth out any lines or drips.
• Clean up the brush, roller, bucket, and screen with water and dishwashing detergent in a sink or outside with a garden hose.
• If you’ll be using the same paint again the next day, wrap the wet roller in a plastic shopping bag and seal it with a tie to keep it from drying out.
• After the walls have dried, remove tape and paint the trim with a brush, going with the grain of the wood.
• Make sure the paint has dried thoroughly before hanging pictures and installing switch and outlet covers to keep them from sticking to the wall.

Watch Danny’s CBS Early Show segment on:
How to Paint Like a Pro

Further Information

• Homeowner’s Guide to Paint Primer
• Homeowner’s Guide to Caulk
• Interior and Exterior House Painting Tips
• Interior Painting Preparation (video)
• How to Paint Walls (video)
• How to Paint Trim (video)

Related posts:

• How to Paint Galvanized Sheet Metal, Gutters, or Valley Tin
• Point ’n Paint Product Review
• How to Paint Kitchen Cabinets

Better Homes and Gardens received over 3,000 entries in their 2009 Home Improvement Challenge. A number of impressive home improvement projects competed for more than $60,000 in prize money in categories that ranged from kitchens and baths to renovation and decorating.

Contestants spent a total of over $112 million on their home improvement renovations, with an average expenditure of $36,000 per project.

In addition to a $40,000 grand prize, the top pick in each category received $2,500 for their efforts. Winning projects are featured in the September 2009 issue of Better Homes and Gardens magazine and will also appear on a special episode of Today’s Homeowner with Danny Lipford airing the week of September 21-27, 2009.

Home Improvement Challenge Winning Entries

• Renovation: (Grand Prize Winner) Dana Liston & David Ellis, Venice, CA
• Addition: Pam Schulz and Clark Dikeman, Culver City, CA
• Outdoor Improvements: Rick and Jacque Bailey, Brecksville, OH
• Kitchen: Ann Steenwyk, Sheboygan, WI
• Decorating: James Little, Naples, FL
• Green Improvements: Laura Stukel, Elmhurst, IL
• Bath: Meg Kopald, Shelburne, VT
• Exterior Facelift: Sonjia and Bob McKelvey, Belpre, OH
• Project under $5,000: Jackie Kalin, Valparaiso, IN

Home Improvement Challenge Grand Prize Winner

Grand prize winning home before . . .                     and after renovation.

Grand prize winners Dana Liston and David Ellis of Venice, California, completely transformed a 1,350 square foot, two-story bungalow into the house of their dreams, doing much of the work themselves.

Exterior Facelift Winner

Exterior facelift winning home before . . .                     and after renovation.

The exterior home facelift winners—Sonjia and Bob McKelvey of Belpre, Ohio—transformed the exterior of their home into a quaint cottage with the help of their architect son. Details such as shingle siding, eave brackets, and a paver walk added curb appeal.

Outdoor Improvements Winner

Water feature in backyard of Outdoor Improvements Winner.

Rick and Jacque Bailey of Brecksville, Ohio, were the winners of the Outdoor Improvements category for their beautifully landscaped backyard that featured stone walls and patio, an outdoor kitchen, and a splashing stone water feature.

Addition Winner

The addition winner’s kitchen featured a brightly colored ceramic tile backsplash.

When adding a kitchen addition to their 1940s home in Culver City, California, Pam Schulz and Clark Dikeman were determined to make the room as environmentally friendly as possible. This included using green building materials, solar roof panels, and windows above the cabinets and doors to capture the breeze and natural light. They also used a colorful array of ceramic tile in a random pattern for the kitchen cabinet backsplash.

Watch Danny’s CBS Early Show segment on:
Best Home Improvement Tips

Photos courtesy of Better Homes and Gardens.

Related posts:

• (696) Better Homes & Gardens Home Improvement Challenge 2009
• Homefront Radio Show for August 29, 2009
• Ceramic vs. Porcelain Tile