There are several things you can do right now that, while they don’t cost any money, will save you on energy and water bills.

• Turn down your thermostat by 3 or 4 degrees during the winter months. You’ll still stay comfortable and you can cut your heating bill by up to
  10%.
• Don’t set the thermostat too high on your water heater. The setting shouldn’t be any higher than 140° F.
• Open your curtains during the day to take advantage of the warming sun, but close them at dusk to help retain the heat inside your home.
• Plug your computer, printer and other hardware into a power strip, then power off the strip when you aren’t using your computer for long lengths of time. The PC will last longer and it keeps your home cooler since it isn’t radiating heat. Also, use the Sleep Mode function on your computer. It will use on the average 70% less energy.
• Only use the washing machine and dishwasher with full loads.
• Wash clothes in cold water.
• On sunny days, use a clothesline to dry clothes. You’ll get more life out of your clothes, too!
• Don’t pre-rinse your dishes. That can waste up to 20 gallons of heated water. Use an enzyme-based detergent to insure clean, spotless dishes.
• On a mild day, open the windows to bring in fresh air and keep the house comfortable without your HVAC system doing all the work.
• Nuke your food. Heating food in a microwave uses only 20% of the energy required by a standard kitchen oven.
• Make sure your pan matches the size of your burner. Mismatched pans and burners waste energy.
• Steam foods instead of boiling them.
• Use a crock pot instead of slow simmering on the stove. A crock pot uses far less energy.
• Clean the coils on your refrigerator once a month. It keeps the motor running more efficiently.
• Do an energy audit! Find out where there may be any potential leaks around doors, windows, baseboards, attic access, fireplace dampers and window unit air conditioners. You can use a piece of stick incense to locate any leaks, then use caulk, weatherstripping or expandable foam to seal the gaps!

Day 4: Reducing Your Carbon Footprint

Cutting back on energy and water usage is a major hurdle when it comes to being clean and green. Certainly, solar power has been an option for several years, but only recently have there been improvements that make solar power a viable option for the average homeowner. Skylights and tubular lights are a great way to reduce energy costs by eliminating the need to turn on your lights in hallways, closets or windowless bathrooms during the day.

A programmable thermostat can save both money and energy in the right situation. If your home is empty at least eight hours of the day, using a programmable thermostat to adjust the temperature during those away hours can whittle two hundred dollars or more off your yearly utility expenses.

Additional insulation is an often overlooked savings. Take a look in your attic and, if you can see the top of the ceiling joists, you need more insulation. Additionally, make sure your doors and windows are properly sealed using adequate caulking and/or weatherstripping. By keeping the heated or cooled air inside where it belongs, you save on your power bill and keep your HVAC system in good working order.

Taking advantage of Mother Nature to water your lawn and garden is a great way to save on water. Of course, the trick is having that kind of “free” water on demand, right? Installing a rain water cistern is definitely eco-friendly, but not always that cheap. One of the simplest ways to take advantage of rainwater is to use a rain barrel to collect water that flows from the roof of the house and into the gutters.

A diverter is placed on the down spout to direct the water right into the barrel. In the past, though, there was a safety issue with rain barrels. They seldom had a top, and could be considered a hazard when placed at a home with small children. The open water also was a breeding ground for mosquitoes.

The second drawback was once the water was in the barrel, what do you do with it? Commonly, a small watering can could be dipped into the barrel for distribution around the garden, but that often meant several trips and, once you got near the bottom of the barrel, it was difficult getting any water into the can. But that was yesterday. Welcome to the 21st century!

I found a great rain barrel from Spruce Creek Rainsaver that tackles all the problems of the traditional rain barrel and makes it one of the simplest solutions to water saving. The barrel is constructed from a durable plastic that even has UV protection to keep it from fading. It’s all one piece, so there’s no danger of any children getting inside and no mosquitoes either! You can attach a hose to a brass spigot on the barrel, or you can attach the hose directly to the barrel and keep the spigot open for other use. It holds 54 gallons and you can even connect barrels together to hold more water! No assembly. Just attach it to your gutters and you’re ready to go. The barrel costs $154.99 and can be shipped anywhere in the contiguous United States.

Day 3: Simple Water Saving Tips

Although there are many devices on the market today designed to help you save on your water bill, there are also a few common sense things you can do to make sure you’re not wasting water inside or out.

Did you know that a simple plumbing leak can cost you hundreds of dollars a year in wasted water? A toilet leak can use 50 extra gallons of water a day. Here are a few tips for water saving.

Outside Water Saving Tips

(See Home Irrigation How-To)

• Landscape with plants that need less water.
• Water lawns during the time of day when temperature and wind speeds are lowest to reduce evaporation.
• Use a soaker hose instead of a sprinkler system to better target the water to your plants.
• Use mulch generously to help retain moisture.
• Set your lawnmower blades to 3 inches to encourage your lawn to grow deeper roots and hold moisture better.

Inside Water Saving Tips

• Check your water meter before and after a two-hour period when water hasn’t been run in your home. If the reading isn’t exactly the same, you’ve got a leak.
• Place a few drops of food coloring into the toilet tank. If the color leaks into the bowl, replace the flapper.
• Get those dripping faucets repaired. Usually it’s a simple matter of replacing worn washers.
• Don’t use the toilet as an ashtray or wastebasket.
• Install faucet aerators to slow the flow of water in sinks and low-flow shower heads in the tub.

As far as devices go, Watts Premier has designed a recirculating pump that is fairly easy to install, so it’s do-it-yourself friendly, and they say it can save you up to 11,000 gallons of water each year. The way it works is the pump periodically cycles the water that is dormant in the pipes of your house. In other words, at any given time there will always be hot water in the pipes. This means you have hot water the minute you turn on the tap. When you don’t have to run the water until it gets warm, that means you save! Since you hook it up directly at the water heater, that means you don’t have to have a pump under the sink or any additional electrical outlets. This will run you about $225, but you’ll make that up easily in lower water bills.

Day 2: Solar-Powered Solutions

Part of embracing the Green philosophy means to adopt new ways to power our every day lives. Reducing the consumption of electricity, natural gas or propane means we are also reducing the emission of greenhouse gases. One of the best ways is to incorporate an idea that is as old as civilization itself. Solar powered items have never been more practical as they are today. Innovations in the field have made solar powered items more practical for today’s homeowner.

One of the really cool things I saw at this year’s International Builder’s Show was a water heating system by FAFCO called Hot2O. This is a system that allows you to use solar energy to assist heating the water for your home. In fact, it can save you up to 50% in heating costs. The cool thing about this particular product is that it was made with the homeowner in mind. It comes in a single box and can be easily installed without the need to hire a professional. It works in conjunction with your existing water heater, can be adapted to work with electric or gas heaters and it also qualifies for the Energy Policy Act of 2005 tax credit, which is up to $2000!

But solar energy isn’t confined to household appliances. You know how great it is to plan a day outside for a big family barbecue, and nothing tastes quite like a char-broiled burger. But, even your favorite grill is spewing out pollutants. Trying to cook a burger with solar power has never really been that successful…until now! I found a really amazing sun-powered oven at Sundance Solar that will knock your socks off. The Tulsi-Hybrid Solar Cooking Oven is large enough to cook four different kinds of food at one time, and is as simple as pointing the reflector at the sun, adjusting it to heat the cooking chamber and you’re ready for the tailgate party! The cool thing is that, since it’s a hybrid, on a cloudy day, you can plug it into any receptacle and still cook with it. But, because of the innovations in technology, even the electrical backup system uses about 75% less energy than your standard household oven. This is a great way to go green.

Even for other practical applications, like charging your cell phone, MP3 players, etc., you can harness the sun to do the work and save on electricity. The Solio Universal Hybrid Solar Charger, also from Sundance Solar, is a lightweight, compact tool that can do the job. Even the tool is green as it is constructed from recycled and recyclable mat.

Day 1: Recycling Paper Products

Can recycling paper products really make a difference in the effort to go green? After all, a sheet of paper only costs about ½ cent. Well, let’s look at it this way…the average American office worker uses close to 12,000 sheets of paper every year. That translates to roughly $60 for each worker. Next, multiply that by only one million (and there are millions more office workers out there) and you now have $60 million dollars! Considering how much money can be saved, I wouldn’t hesitate to say that paper recycling is a huge benefit to our environment.

The really good news is that in 2006, we recycled over 53% of the paper we used, which was 53 and a half tons!

Not all paper is created equally, though. Basically, paper products fall into two categories: high grade and low grade. High grade papers include computer and laser printer papers, copy paper, letterheads, notebook paper and colored papers. Low grade would include cardboard, newspapers, phone books, magazines and sticky notes. Pretty much all of the junk mail you receive is low grade paper and should be included in your recycling efforts. Paper products that should NOT be included in your recycling, however, would include carbon paper, paper cups, pizza boxes and used tissue.

Separating your high grade and low grade paper is appreciated by your recycling centers, but it would be advisable to call them up and ask what types of paper products they can not use. Not all companies will recycle some of the low grade papers. High grade papers can be recycled into almost any other paper product while low grade papers are generally used strictly for things like new newspapers, egg cartons and paperboard.

Of course, the real key to recycling is to make it easy, which will encourage you to participate. Newspapers are probably the most common paper product in your home that can be recycled. Stacking the papers isn’t that tough, but bundling them and getting them to the curb for pick-up can be a challenge. An easy solution is to take two pieces of nylon string about 4-feet long each and place them in an “X” pattern on the bottom of a little red wagon. You should have enough room to do twice on the bottom of the wagon. Begin your paper stack with the “cross hairs” in the center of each stack. When you have a tall enough stack, bring up the loose ends and tie up the bundle. When you have two full bundles, you already have them tied and in the wagon for easy transportation to the curb.

Aside from saving a lot of money, a paper recycling effort will also keep tons of waste out of the landfill, conserve natural resources, can actually save energy by using less of it to create paper from virgin resources which will, in turn, help reduce greenhouse gas emissions.

In addition to recycling, you can cut down on paper use by using printers that print on both sides of the paper and by taking advantage of electronic forms, whether it’s for ordering items from catalogs or writing a quick thank you note. If you happen to be one of those folks who, like me, has to rely on notes to remember things, most cell phones have a handy “Notepad” function so you can jot down that reminder without using any paper. You can reduce paper usage AND save some frustration by registering to remove your name from national mailing lists. One more tip for saving on paper is to make sure you buy recycled paper products. Simply look for the recycled logo on the package.

View more on CBS The Early Show’s website.

Of all the remodeling projects, by far, the one tackled more often by homeowners is painting. We’re entering the time of the year when it makes sense to take on any outside painting, because the weather is going to be cooler and more comfortable. But not all outdoor painting projects are equal. You may have several types of surfaces to paint outside your home and each has its own unique method to ensure success. Here are a few tips that, hopefully, will keep your colors and your painting experience bright.

Painting Wood

Whether it’s lap siding, board and battens or porch railings, if you want a successful paint job, it all starts with preparation. As is often the case with wood surfaces that have to deal with Mother Nature, the old paint begins to flake, exposing raw wood.. Before you pick up your paint brush, you need to remove as much of the old, flaking paint as possible. This can be done with a simple paint scraper. If, however, you have a large area in need of scraping, you’re best bet is to use a drill motor or cordless drill with an attachment specifically designed for stripping paint. A synthetic fiber wheel does a great job and lasts much longer than the old sandpaper wheels that are often used. For very stubborn spots, you could also apply a chemical paint stripper. This, however, will mean that the job is going to take you longer to complete because the surface needs to be completely dry before moving on to the next step. Once the loose paint is removed, prime the raw wood with a good quality primer before applying a finished coat of paint.

Painting Wrought Iron

The process for iron work, such as railings, columns or decorative hangings is very similar to wood, which means the most important step is preparation. Using your drill motor or cordless drill with a wire wheel attachment is perfect for removing any rust or deteriorating paint. There are also chemical strippers available for iron, but in most cases, the wire wheel is sufficient. To prime the metal surface, you need to choose a primer made for metals. You can purchase it in liquid form and apply it with a brush like normal paint, but if the metal has intricate details, you’d be better off using an aerosol spray primer. The metal primer will typically have a rust inhibitor formulated in it and will be either a gray or burnt umber color when applied. Once the primer dries, it provides a surface that new paint will bind to so it will last for years without flaking.

Painting Masonry and Concrete

Brick, cinder block and stucco surfaces all have one thing in common: They are porous. Preparation for masonry surfaces starts with sealing them. A masonry primer will do the job, but be forewarned, these sealers are usually quite thick, more so than paint, and it takes a lot longer to cover the area you’re painting, but it needs to be done. Actually, there are some newer methods out there to spray the sealers on masonry surfaces as well as new paint, but it’s mainly done by professionals and not for do-it-yourselfers.

Concrete is very similar, but in addition to being able to paint it, you can also put stain on it. Staining can actually be a little less strenuous than painting since coverage is greater and it’s easier to apply. There are a lot of colors to choose from, too, so you can match or compliment other colors on your house.

Painting Metal

Although I already mentioned wrought iron, there are other metal surfaces around your house that could stand a coat of paint at times. Eave metal, valley metal and even roof vents can all be painted. The challenge is how to prepare them. Most of these metals are galvanized and paint, typically, won’t stick to them. The secret is a common item you probably have in your kitchen pantry. Take a rag and dip it in simple white vinegar. Swab the metal surface with the soaked rag and allow it to dry. There is a chemical reaction with the vinegar that creates a surface that any spray paint will adhere to. Roof vents are probably the best thing to spray paint, because you can paint it a color to match your shingles and help make it blend into the color of the roof. It really looks a lot better than a dull, rusty metal vent.

Painting Plastic

Finally, for items such as lawn furniture or even something as simple as a flower pot made from plastic, there are some really great ways to make them look spectacular. Certainly, a spray paint formulated to bond with plastic is what you want to use, but you don’t have to settle for simple color any more. First, wash the plastic with a water and mild detergent solution to remove any dirt and grime. Once it is completely dry, you can spray paint it with some of the new plastic paints that also will spray on a texture, such as hammered metal. You’ve got several color choices and it makes a really unique appearance.

One final word of advice. Be sure to read the directions to any of these specialty paints paying close attention to recommended weather conditions, proper ventilation and application options.

Related Article: How to paint or stain almost anything

Watch the segment on CBS The Early Show’s website.

If you think you have an idea worthy of the national limelight, go submit your ideas on the Early Show’s website. Who knows? You might be discovered! There are five categories to think about when you go for the green. Here are just a few of the planet-friendly products I highlighted on The Early Show.

Conserving Energy

• Compact Fluorescent Lights - These bulbs use 75 percent less energy than standard incandescent bulbs and last up to 10 times longer. They also produce about 75 percent less heat, so they’re safer to operate.
• Timers - For use with practically any appliance in your home from water heaters to table lamps.
• Energy Star programmable thermostat

Keeping the Air Clean

• Electrostatic air filter
• Low VOC paint (Glidden Evermore) - Lower odors means painting is easier on the nose. Low volatile organic compounds means cleaner air. The Glidden Evermore Low-VOC paint is the only paint line sold at The Home Depot that meets their requirements for its Eco Options Program.
• OSI Green Series Caulking - Construction and deck adhesives, expanding sealants and other types of caulking all with very low VOC’s and exceptional bonding qualities.
• Low VOC Flooring Adhesive (DAP Weldwood) - This is an adhesive that not only is low in VOC’s, but it is resin/latex based which means it cleans up with water, is nonflammable and will bond several types of floor surfaces.

Water Savings

• Delta eFlow Electronic Lavatory Faucet - Hands-free operation means that you only have the water running when it’s needed and it also limits the transfer of bacteria and germs.
• Brizo RSVP Lavatory Faucet - Water flows at 1.5 gpm instead of the standard 2.2 gpm which translates to a 30% water savings.
• Kohler EcoSmart Toilet - While lower-flush 1.6 gallon toilets are now the building standard, this model uses a full 20% less water with equal or better flushing force. The EcoSmart from Kohler uses 1.28 gallons per flush with a flapperless tower design.

Recyling Made Easier/Recycled Products

• EcoPod Recycling Station - This item crushes plastic and aluminum beverage containers and stores up to fifty in a plastic pod that slides out for easy transfer to a curbside recycling bin.
• EnviroTrash Recycling Chute - I saw this one at the Kitchen and Bath Industry Show this year in Las Vegas. The stainless steel it’s made from is even recycled. It can be built in to the wall to make it virtually invisible, makes recycling fun and keeps odors out of the house.
• Recycled glass countertops from EnviroGlas - Comparable to other solid surfaces, this recycled material is every bit as durable and beautiful. It emits no VOC’s, you don’t have to seal it and diverts trash from going to a landfill.
• EnviroPlank Flooring System - Manufactured from 100% recycled glass and/or porcelain and color pigmented epoxy resin
• EcoStar Recycled Rubber Roofing Tiles - Made in both a shake and slate style, these are made from 80% recycled rubber and plastic so it’s only half the weight of natural slate. Also offers a 50-year warranty.

Insulation

• Cellulose insulation
• Bonded Logic UltraTouch Insulation - This is a recycled denim insulation treated with a non-toxic Borate solution. The fibers provide approximately 30% better accoustic performance than a traditional fiberglass insulation and it diverts about 500 tons of landfill waste every month.

Over the years, I’ve been involved in thousands of projects to help improve, maintain or beautify a home. One of the most visible things you can add to the exterior of your home is fencing. While there are plenty of options, I’m going to mention one of them only very briefly: chain link.

Chain Link Fences

Chain link is certainly a durable option, but if you really want your fence to make a statement, my advice is to use some other material. As much as I travel this country, chain link screams out to me as industrial and impersonal. I see miles of it stretched out along the interstate to enclose the roadway, so for a home, I say use something with a tad more character.

Before you get started on a project like this, make sure you identify your property lines. I can’t begin to tell you how many times I’ve heard a homeowner tell me about all the hard work they put into erecting a fence only to have to tear it down because it was built on someone else’s property! Also, keep in mind that you are going to have to dig several holes for the fence posts. Now, unless you just enjoy wearing callouses into your hands, I would strongly suggest renting a gas-powered auger. You’ll be able to dig all the holes you need in a matter of a couple of hours.

Wood Fences

Quite likely, wood fences are one of the most popular choices when looking for an option other than chain link. The natural “flaws” in wood are what really gives it the character I was speaking about. You can install it yourself, although it does take time and patience. If you’ve never put up a fence before, I wouldn’t particularly think you could do this in a single weekend, but it’s possible.

There are several things you’ll want to decide on when putting up a wood fence. First, the material the fence will be made from has to be chosen. Because of the exposure to the elements, many people decide on using pressure treated lumber, but you could also use a cedar fence. The advantage of cedar is that you can stain it easier than you can treated lumber.

Second, the design of the fence should be taken into consideration. You can make it really simple with placing the boards directly next to each other for full privacy, or you can stagger the boards on each side of the stringers to create what is called a “Good Neighbor” or “Shadowbox” design. In essence, you get a fence that looks identical on either side. The type of fence board would also fit into the design decision. You can use square edge boards, dog ear boards or a gothic style. The easiest ones to find, though, are going to be the square edge and dog ear boards.

The wood fence boards are nailed in place by creating a frame using a 4×4 post set in the ground and three 2×4 rails placed horizontally between the posts, which should be no more than 8 feet apart. To make sure the posts are lining up just right, you can use some nylon string stretched tightly from one corner to the other to create the path you want the fence to follow.

The cost of a wood fence really depends on your particular area of the country. You can plan on spending anywhere from $5-$7 per linear foot for a 6′ high, dog-ear fence. Of course, plan on spending a little more for additional materials for any gates you install.

Vinyl Fences

One of the main drawbacks of building your fence from wood is the maintenance it will require. Between harsh sun, freezing rain and snow and other weather-related issues, you may need to seal your fence on a yearly basis. If not, it will turn grey very soon and can give your whole house a run-down look. One way to avoid that is to use vinyl fencing.

Vinyl fences do cost more, but there is very little maintenance involved. Just as you do for wood fences, you need to carefully consider your design. You can get a full-privacy design, just like wood, or for a more aesthetical appeal, try a simple picket fence. You can install a very simple picket fence that is only 3′ tall for about $5-$6 a linear foot. Of course, you can go with something a little more elaborate like a 6′ privacy panel with a lattice design on the top, but you’ll be spending about $16-$18 per linear foot for something along those lines. A visit to ArborLife will give you some good ideas on what’s available.

Of course, the really great thing about going with vinyl is that you can purchase it in pre-made sections. Usually the sections will be anywhere from 6′-8′ long, which means it shouldn’t take anywhere near as long to install as it would for a wood fence.

The downside of using vinyl is that it simply isn’t as strong as wood. That’s not to say that it will always be that way. In fact, some companies out there are designing more durable systems, but there aren’t that many of them out there just yet.

Composite Fences

One other option is using composite materials, like the kind you can get from Timbertech. You’re going to pay more for the initial cost, but with composites, you get a fence that is virtually maintenance free and as durable as wood. It won’t fade or crack or warp, which means it will look new year after year. Unlike many vinyl products, the composite materials look just like true wood, so you can still have the character you’re searching for that you might not get with vinyl.

One of the main advantages to the Timbertech product is a steel reinforced rail that I got to see this past year at the International Builder’s Show in Orlando. Plus, you can get some really nice decorative post caps made from the same material. You can learn a lot more about this product on their website. As I mentioned, it will be more for the initial cost, running about $35 per linear foot, but it will be one of those extra costs you won’t mind paying when you weigh the benefit of near-zero maintenance.

If you simply aren’t someone who feels comfortable wielding a power saw and auger, don’t worry. Many of the large home centers also offer installation services for fences. In many cases, you can even take advantage of the complimentary design service to see what the fence would look like before it’s ever installed.

Finally, just a word of caution. While many people feel the need to use a fence as a way to create privacy and keep prying eyes away from their property, it also provides a private place for would-be intruders. So, if you install a full privacy fence, make sure to include motion detecting flood lights to keep the bad guys at bay!

Watch the segment on CBS The Early Show’s website.

When you consider that the earth is made up of nearly 70% water, you wouldn’t think there would be any concerns over a water shortage. But, the truth of the matter is that of all that water on our planet, only 3% of it is fresh water, which is safe for drinking and a good three-quarters of that dinky 3% is located in the frozen ice caps and unavailable! Add to that the current drought situations across the nation and the threat of global warming … Well, I think it becomes clearer that we have to take measures now to conserve water, not only for ourselves, but for future generations.

Professional Irrigation Systems

Maintaining your lawn and garden is a major source of water consumption. Most of us want to have that lush, green lawn and be the envy of the neighborhood. For some people, that means dragging out the garden hose with an attached sprinkler and moving it around several times in order to keep the grass sufficiently watered. However, that is also one of the most inefficient ways to water the lawn, and a vast amount of the water is completely wasted.

Installing an irrigation system is the best way to maintain your yard and tightening the reins (no pun intended) on water consumption. It may surprise you, though, as to how much an average irrigation system will cost. While it certainly depends on the quality of the components you use, it’s not unusual to spend $500 or more to irrigate an area no larger than 3,000 square feet, and that’s just for the parts for the most basic of systems. Add to that the cost of having a professional installer put the system in for you and you’re looking at a nice chunk of change. Realistically, for a nice system with quality sprinklers, valves, control box, etc. that is professionally installed, plan on spending $2000-$3000.

DIY (Do-It-Yourself)

You can cut that cost down by installing everything yourself, but it’s important that you do it right. That means understanding the role of each type of sprinkler head, installing the controller and the all-important backflow preventer. To be honest, this is stuff a lot of homeowners don’t want to deal with. However, before you become overwhelmed, check out the websites of Rain Bird and Toro for great consumer information on planning, layout and installation of a do-it-yourself irrigation system. Orbit Irrigation Systems has an online video tutorial that is very helpful. They’ll take you through the installation step-by-step and explain the use of zones, timers and rain delay controllers.

For the ultimate in do-it-yourself systems, you should check out the Lawn Belt system. This is an irrigation system that can be installed without having to trench your yard. The design of the tubing is such that you can simply cut a slot in the ground with a flat blade shovel and push the tubing into the ground. The design also prohibits any damage during a freeze. The tubing expands and contracts so burst pipes are never an issue. A starter set only runs $139.95. You can attach it directly to a hose bibb and turn it on manually, or set it up on a controller and timer.

Drip Irrigation

For flower beds, plants and trees, you really don’t want to use a sprinkler system. One of the most effective ways to water these areas and use only a fraction of the water is to incorporate a soaker hose or, better yet, a drip irrigation system. A soaker hose is simply a rubber hose that is porous and allows water to slowly seep out of it to the surrounding area.

A drip irrigation system can directly target the roots of your plants and flowers without watering any of the surrounding area which can save up to 30% of the water used for irrigation. You can also add a little pizzazz to your flower beds by using decorative items to distribute the water. Orbit Irrigation has some cool little bugs that you attach to your drip system.

Water Saving Tips

There are several things you can do to help cut the waste of watering. One of them I already mentioned, which is using drip irrigation for flower beds, plants and trees instead of a directional sprinkler. Here are a few more tips:

• Water in the early morning hours, preferably from 5:00-10:00 AM. Watering in the middle of the day means you lose a good 30%-40% from evaporation. Watering at night means you stand the chance of developing fungus on your vegetation.
• Create irrigation zones. Not all plants are created equal. Some need less water than others. By dividing the lawn and garden into zones, you can incorporate sprinklers, soakers and drip systems throughout for a more efficient watering system.
• Keep off the sidewalk. No matter how much you water it, concrete doesn’t grow! Adjust all sprinklers to water only the areas that need the water.
• Inspect your sprinkler heads and hoses on a monthly basis. Clogged heads or a split hose can waste a lot of water.
• Watch the weather. If Mother Nature is watering the lawn, you shouldn’t be. Consider installing a rain sensor device on your irrigation system that will shut it off automatically when it detects rainfall.
• Remember that you get what you pay for. Don’t purchase the cheapest irrigation system you can find. Parts will wear out quicker, lines crack and that means more water wasted.
• Place 2-3 inches of mulch in flower beds to help retain moisture and keep weeds from growing. Make sure you don’t place the mulch directly against the plant.
• Finally, use an automatic timer/controller. It won’t forget to turn the water off if you get involved watching the big game on TV.

Watch the segment on CBS The Early Show’s website.

Typically, you think of a pathway as nothing more than the shortest distance between two points. It’s the map that gets you from here to there. Frankly, I think that’s rather dull, particularly if the two points in question are in your own back yard. Left alone, an often-traveled pathway can lead to a worn rut filled with dead grass, so creating a pathway is the logical thing to do. Instead of a full-blown pathway, though, consider creating a path of stepping stones. There’s actually less work involved to install them and, aesthetically, stepping stones can give your yard its own unique personality.

Step 1: Decide where your stepping stones will go

Take a good look around your yard and find those areas where the grass has been worn down because it is a frequently traveled path. This is the best candidate for a stepping stone path. However, don’t feel like you are tied to just those areas. A stepping stone path is also a great way to accent a secluded section of your yard or the perfect pathway within a flower bed to provide a place to step when pulling weeds!

Step 2: Layout the walkway

You’re going to want your stepping stones to be placed as far apart as your comfortable walking stride is. I’ve seen some people use spray paint to mark the path, but I like using gutter spikes instead. Once you know where you want your path, walk that area and place a gutter spike in the ground where the center of your arch lands. The spike is going to represent the center of each stone. The nice thing about using the gutter spike is that once you’re ready to place the stone, you simply pull out the spike. No muss, no fuss.

Step 3: Decide on what materials to use

There are a lot of choices for stepping stones and it all depends on your personal taste. A more traditional look can be obtained with a simple square patio paver. These can be found in plain concrete or a washed aggregate. You can get the same material in a round paver or, perhaps, use several brick pavers to create each step.

Another choice would be to use a man-made paver like a solar stepping stone from the HomeBrite Corporation. These steps are made from a rugged plastic and have a solar cell embedded within the paver that charges up a battery during the day and automatically lights up at dusk creating a really unique path. They are available at The Home Depot for about $25 each.

Flagstones make a really nice walkway because each stone is unique in appearance. Speaking of unique, I’ve even seen some concrete stones that are made to look like throw pillows! I wouldn’t want them in my yard, but they are definitely one-of-a-kind.

Step 4: Dig out the sod

Remove the gutter spike and place your stone in that spot with the center of the stone where the gutter spike stood. Using a long blade utility knife or a garden trowel, cut out around the perimeter of the stone. Remove the stone and continue cutting out the sod. You’ll also want to dig down about an inch more than the actual thickness of your stepping stone. Try to make the bottom of the hole as flat as possible.

Step 5: Put in crushed stone and pack

The reason for digging the hole deeper than the thickness of the stone is because you want to place a crushed limestone or a coarse sand in the bottom of the hole first. This will ensure against any sinking over a period of time. Spread the crushed stone or sand in the hole and pack it down making sure it is as flat and level as possible. If you’re using coarse sand, wetting it down first will help pack it tightly.

Step 6: Place your stepping stone

Now it’s time to place the stepping stone into the hole you created. Press it into the packed material and then pack in some of the loose sand or crushed stone around the stepping stone to give it some added support. Stand on the stone to help set it in place.

Now all you have to do is repeat these six steps for every stone or paver. Make sure you don’t forget to add some sand or crushed stone around the stepping stone after you set it in place. Also, by taking the time to dig out the extra soil and setting the stepping stone at the same height as the ground will guarantee that you don’t create a tripping hazard. It also makes it a cinch to cut the grass without having to worry about the mower blade striking the stone.

Watch the segment on CBS The Early Show’s website.

It used to be that gardening was a hobby. It was a pleasant way to spend a lazy afternoon by enjoying the sunshine, fresh air and the self-proclamation of being a green thumb. Soon, gardening became a competition as you kept up with the Joneses vying for the coveted Yard of the Month sign. Today, it’s practically become survival of the fittest since much of the country is facing drought conditions and water rationing.

The good news is that you can take the stress of gardening back down to the hobby level with all the cool new tools designed specifically for today’s gardener. A lot of home and garden centers will have yard tools, but not all of them are going to make yard work simple. Here are some really cool tools that, not only do the job, but make your day in the garden a walk in the park.

You would think that gloves are a necessity, but not everyone like to wear gloves. Here’s a great alternative. Gardener’s Armor from the Duluth Trading Company is a specially-designed lotion that will protect your hands from bugs, poison ivy and other garden nasties. It forms a protective barrier on your skin to block the ill-effects of poison ivy, poison oak and sumac. It keeps insects from biting and it also prevents any garden chemicals from absorbing into your pores. Plus, the barrier it forms will make washing your hands easier. A 4 oz. bottle costs $12.50 and will provide about 100 applications.

Less is more when it comes to toting around garden tools. Here’s a really cool item I found from Ames True Temper. It’s called the 7-in-1 Planter’s Buddy and, as the name implies, it has seven functions in this single hand tool. It has a really heavy gauge stainless steel blade to be used as a trowel; a serrated edge for cutting bags of potting soil, mulch or fertilizer; the tip is notched for weeding with ease; the other edge is a sharpened blade for cutting sod; the same edge has a V-notch perfect for cutting twine; the handle end is a solid poly composition that can be used as a tamper to tamp down wood stakes, markers and fertilizer spikes; and, finally, the blade and handle are marked in one-inch increments for easy measuring of distance when putting in plants. It runs $14.99 and it’s available at Home Depot, Lowes and True Value.

Another new design is the CobraHead Weeder, again from Duluth Trading Company, with a unique design that slices through the toughest soil like a tractor pulling a cultivator. It’s sharpened and honed on both sides, zinc-coated steel and practically unbreakable. Really fun to use, too. Only costs $24.50.

Keeping with the idea of making work easier, here’s a comfortable way to work in the yard without all the strain on your lower back and knees. This is the Comfort Garden Kneeler I picked up at The Home Depot (www.homedepot.com) for only $39.00. It has an adjustable height padded seat, soft cushioned kneeling pads, folds up for quick storage and is very lightweight. The nice thing is that I don’t use this just in the garden. It’s perfect for camping trips, too!

Every gardener has a pump-up sprayer. Those are pretty simple to use, but here’s something even simpler. Ryobi has long been known for their cordless power tools. Well, they took the idea of a garden sprayer and attached one of their battery packs to create this cordless motorized sprayer, so you don’t even have to pump it up any more. It will spray chemicals, cleaning agents and stains, so it’s perfect for the garden. You can pick it up at Home Depot for just under $30.

If you’re doing a lot of gardening, you have to have a garden cart. What makes this one unique is how easy it is to dump a load of topsoil or fertilizer. This is a dumping cart from Vigoro and it’s a smaller version of a cart they already made, so it’s perfect for home use. This is also a Home Depot item and it costs just $59.99.

Two more items that you should put on your gardener’s wish list is this portable garden center from Backyard Gear. Not only is it a convenient tool caddy, but it includes a fold away sink for cleaning tools, vegetables, hands, etc. It even has a paper towel holder. You have to order this on the Internet, but you can find it on Home Depot’s site and it costs $140.00. The sink, by the way, operates by hooking it directly to your water hose. Once you’re done gardening for the day, the garden center rolls out of the way for quick and easy storage. The next item will get the hose out of the way without you having to roll it up yourself.

The Reel Smart will automatically rewind your garden hose using nothing more than water pressure. There are a lot of hose reels on the market, but this new design means the size is only about one-fifth the size of others. You can pick one up at the Home Depot for only $69.90.

Watch the segment on CBS The Early Show’s website.

1-2-3 Maintenance

At the start of the season, usually Spring, there are three main areas to focus on when it comes to lawn mower maintenance. First, you need to change the oil. Even if you don’t think it needs it, do it! The oil should be changed at the beginning of every season. Over the course of the cutting season, dirt and other impurities will collect in the oil and those things will ruin an engine. Check with your particular mower’s owner’s manual for the proper procedure.

Next, change the spark plug. That little space at the end of the plug where the metal end bends at a 90 degree angle is called the gap. Many manufacturers are now packaging new plugs with the gap pre-set, so it’s as simple as removing the old and installing the new. However, it’s still a good idea to double-check the gap in case there has been some movement from a rough shipping to the store. Just like the oil, many people like to change the plug every year so you’re starting every cutting season with a new spark plug.

Finally, clean the air filter. Again, this is as simple as removing the filter cover and blowing out all the debris with a high-pressure air hose. This works well with an air filter that looks like an accordion-style folded paper product. If the filter in your mower is made from foam, then washing it in a water and detergent solution is all you need to do. In some rare cases, you may need to replace the filter, but most of the time, a simple cleaning will work.

Blades

I have separated the blade from regular maintenance, because this is more than just a standard upkeep. It takes a little extra effort to remove the blade. Every year, though, this should be done prior to the first cutting. You need to have a sharp blade when cutting grass, otherwise it doesn’t cut the grass but, rather, tears it instead. This can lead to a diseased lawn. Sharpening a blade can easily be done by using a metal file and cutting a beveled edge by passing the file over the blade in the same direction each time. An even easier way to sharpen the blade is to use a small grinding attachment for your cordless drill. Just place the blade in a bench vice and you can hone the edge with no trouble.

Mowers

For a small yard, a simple push mower is perfect. Don’t rush out and get the $49 special, though. Remember, the whole point is to make yard work easier. A cheap mower won’t cut it, if you’ll pardon the pun. A larger cutting deck is a good feature. Many small mowers start around 19”, but a 21” would be better. Also, think about how easy it is to crank. There are many quality mowers for just under $300 with their easy starting systems, grass catchers and, to make it even more convenient, the mowers are fully assembled in the carton.

For about $400, you can purchase a mower like this walk-behind model from John Deere. It also has a 21” cutting deck, can be used as a side discharging mower, mulching mower, rear bagger, and it’s self-propelled, which means you don’t even have to exert any great effort when mowing. This mower is great for lawns that have thick grass or a rough terrain.

Remember, these types of mowers are specifically for a smaller yard. I have, however, seen people use these smaller push mowers to take care of larger yards, but it takes several hours and, again, somewhat defeats the whole purpose of making the chore easier.

For the large yards, a riding mower is the toy of preference. Professional services use the ZTR mowers. ZTR stands for Zero Turn Radius or Zero Turn Rider. For a long time, you didn’t really see models like this for homeowner use, but that is changing. The cutting decks start at 42”. Most homeowners don’t want it to be too big, but a 48”-50” is ideal. The new ZTR’s are a work of art focusing not only on performance, but also on comfort and style. They can include shock absorbers, larger wheels for a more comfortable ride, cushy seat with armrests and even cup holders! The biggest drawback for many homeowners is trying to operate the ZTR’s with the two separate directional levers. If you want the “cool factor” of a ZTR but keep the convenience of a traditional tractor, consider Cub Cadet’s i1050 series It has a traditional steering wheel, but still gives you the zero turn radius. The zero turn means it’s easy to cut your grass one row following another that gives you that really cool “striping” effect when you’re done. The 50” ZTR will cost around $3800.

Tips

Here are a few quick tips that will keep your lawn looking great.

1. Don’t cut wet grass. Aside from having a tendency to clog the machine and leave clumps of wet grass all over the yard, wet grass won’t cut easily. It tears, just as it does with a dull blade.
2. Set the cutting height to leave at least 1 ½ inches of grass blade. Taller grass will hold moisture better and will also allow the root system to “grab hold” of the soil better, which means a healthier lawn.
3. Don’t mow in the same direction every time you cut your grass. For example, one week mow north to south. The next week, mow east to west. This prevents ruts from forming in the yard and also lets the grass grow thicker.
4. Use a grass catcher for the first cut and last cut of the season. Use the mulching feature all the other times.

Finally, if you need just a little more incentive to spend a day in the yard, remember this. According to the Journal of the American College of Sports Medicine, you can burn over 350 calories every hour you spend behind a push mower! Now that’s a great workout with dual results!

Outdoor kitchens have been rapidly gaining in popularity, which should come as no surprise. Seems like it gets harder to gather the family around the dinner table at night, but when you’re talking about a barbecue, the “whole fam damily” likes to show up! Even if you think an outdoor kitchen is too far from your budget, you may be surprised at just how affordable it can be. The key is really in the basics. If you have an existing patio or deck, you’re over halfway there. All it really takes to have an outdoor kitchen is a grill and a storage area for the cooking accessories you need. Many manufacturers provide that in a single unit for as low as $299. Of course, there are many options to consider, if you have a larger budget, which are some of the things I’ll mention here.

Location, Location, Location

Again, if you already have an area, such as a concrete patio or deck, the cost is minimal to set up a nice outdoor kitchen. A word of caution, though, if you are setting up on an existing deck. Be sure to have a professional look at the structural soundness of the deck before adding the extra weight of a large outdoor kitchen. You may need to add some extra bracing first.

The important thing to keep in mind is that wherever you have the grilling station, you want to make sure there are no combustible surfaces next to the grill. Fire plus wood equals more fire! But don’t consider only wood surfaces. Don’t make the mistake I’ve seen more times than I can remember of placing your grill next to an area covered in vinyl siding. A hot grill may not start a fire there, but it will literally melt the siding, then you have a huge mess and will be spending a lot more money to remove and replace siding.

If you are opting for a gas grill, you’ll want to locate your kitchen near a gas line, or where one can be easily installed. Also, you’ll want to provide ample cover for the cook in the event of bad weather and proper outdoor lighting.

Build-It-Yourself

If you create your own type of cabinets for storage, you want to be sure and consider how much they will be affected by the elements. I have built many small outdoor kitchen areas using treated lumber. You can also sheathe the area with a cement fiber backer board and install a tile or stone surface over it. A very nice stainless steel drop-in grill can be purchased for around $700, like this Charmglow available at The Home Depot. The countertop also needs to be weatherproof. Granite, tile, solid surface, stainless steel and even concrete can be used successfully. If you make the countertop area large enough for the eating area, too, then you create a fantastic social spot all centered around the grill. Barstools complete the look, but, again, keep the weather in mind when choosing the stools.

Sinks and Refrigerators

What is a kitchen without a refrigerator? New models have been designed strictly for outdoor use. In almost every instance, you want a good stainless steel model. These refrigerators aren’t going to be the full size units, but rather an under the counter style. Make sure the unit you choose is rated for outdoor use. Having a refrigerator outside will save countless of trips back and forth from the grill to the inside kitchen. For security, most of these models come with a lock, so you can keep items safely stored year-round.

A sink is another option well-worth considering. Simple things like rinsing food, adding water to sauces and even washing hands can be so convenient when a sink is right there instead of having to go onside or use a water hose. However, you want to make sure and check out what your local building codes are in relation to adding a sink.

Ready-To-Grill Modules

If you aren’t comfortable with building your own outdoor kitchen, there are some great alternatives in modular units that you simply put in place and fire up the grill. Grills, by nature, are meant for outdoor use, but you don’t want to buy the $39 special at the local five and dime. This is a true investment. Most grills will have a cooking area anywhere from 15 to 26 inches deep and up to four feet wide. The decision that first comes up with grills, though, is whether or not to have a charcoal grill or one that operates on gas (natural or LP). You could even opt for a wood smoker, although they are more difficult to provide a regimented cooking schedule.

Stainless steel is the most popular choice among true outdoor grilling connoisseurs. Some of the newer models are even coming out with bright colors and even a wood grain embossed on the stainless steel. You can also add options, such as a side burner to use for sauces or other dishes.

Of course, you can be just as elaborate as you can be simple. Here is a nice set-up from Sam’s Club.

This barbecue grill features three main burners, one infrared burner, one side burner, motorized rotisserie, heavy-duty grill cover and removable icebox. Best of all is the price. Sam’s Club delivers this model for $799 and you can get it in a natural gas or LP model.

For the Cadillac or even Maserati of the line, check out the stainless steel modular units like these from Viking. Because the units are modular, you can pick and choose the style of your outdoor kitchen to include everything from the grill to refrigeration to a refreshment center.

Finally, as a bonus, you’re not only creating a spot for family and friends to gather and enjoy good food and company. I mentioned earlier that this is an investment. The National Association of Home Builders (NAHB) has determined that adding an outdoor kitchen will add value to your home, so you’re getting a return on your investment if you ever decide to sell. In fact, the return on your dollar can be as much as 130%.

Watch the segment on CBS The Early Show’s website.

Changing the Flooring

Vinyl Tile

On the inside of your home, changing the flooring can make a tremendous difference, and if you are doing the job yourself, then the labor savings will help cut down on the overall cost of the job. One of the simplest floors to install is vinyl tile. Often called a “peel-and-stick” floor, you can easily cover a bathroom, laundry room or even a kitchen in only a day. The cost of these tiles vary depending on the thickness and the manufacturer. While this is an easy do-it-yourself job, this is also where you need to be aware of “cheap” vs. “inexpensive.” Vinyl tiles that have a thickness of 3 mil or less will be very affordable, but they won’t last very long either. Wear and tear of higher traffic areas will mean that you’ll be replacing the floor again in a very short time. The thing you want to look at with vinyl tile is not the price, but the thickness. Tiles that are from 6-12 mil will handle high traffic areas much more easily.

trafficMASTER® Allure Vinyl Flooring

But, for a really easy and affordable do-it-yourself job with a twist, you should really check out this new floor by trafficMASTER®. Their product is called Allure Vinyl Flooring. It looks like a very high end hardwood floor and the vinyl planks stick to each other, so no messy adhesives are used. In fact, the manufacturer claims that only a razor knife is needed to install this floor. It comes in three finishes – light oak, hickory and cherry – and can be installed on top of any existing hard surface, such as vinyl or concrete. The best part is the price. It only costs $1.69 per square foot, which means an average 12’ x 12’ room would only cost around $250 in material. This is a product exclusive to the Home Depot.

Carpet Tiles

Carpet, on the other hand, has long been a favorite material for flooring. It’s much more comfortable on the feet and helps create a welcome feeling in a room. But, it is usually a job best left for the professional installer. Again, this is where the cost of improvement projects can really skyrocket. But, here’s a great inexpensive alternative for carpet. A carpet tile, such as this one manufactured by Legato, can be installed by practically anyone. In fact, they were designed specifically for the do-it-yourselfer. Each carpet panel is just under 2’ x 2’ and is straight on two sides and features unique wave edges on the other two sides that interlock. The material that holds each panel to the floor is the specialized padding manufactured into the back of the panels that grips the floor, keeping each panel right where you set it down. It requires no glue, adhesives, or nails and you can install it wall to wall for the look of traditional carpeting or make your own area rug to define a conversation area. However, easy installation is only part of the story. Since the carpet panels are precisely engineered they can be moved at will. So, if your children are drawing with permanent markers and get ink on the carpet, you can simply lift out the stained panel and replace it with a new one, or you can switch it with a panel located under a sofa where the stain won’t show. There are twelve colors available and, the material will run about $2.67 per square foot. That means an average size room (12’x12’) would cost under $400 in materials. www.homedepot.com

Ceramic Tile Grout Cleaner

Ceramic is also another low-cost flooring if you can install it yourself, but in many cases, you may already have ceramic but it just doesn’t look as good as it used to. The tiles may be fine, but the grout lines are dirty and dingy. If attempts at cleaning have failed, here’s a solution that costs very little. Most home centers will carry a grout stain that can be either applied by brush or with a handy built-in applicator, similar to applying shoe polish. Grout stain is a high performance sealer that extends grout joint life and reduces daily maintenance to a minimum. A grout stain can help bring back the original luster of the grout line and can make a world of difference in the appearance of the floor. You can usually find these stains in a variety of colors and sizes, even up to a gallon. However, a little bit goes a long way, so this is definitely an inexpensive transformation. For a bottle of grout cleaner and a ½ pint of grout stain, you’ll spend just under $20.

Faux Finish Painting

Moving from the floors to the walls, one of the most dramatic changes a room can experience is a simple coat of paint. But here’s another idea. Take only one wall in a room and make it an accent wall by applying a faux finish. By only painting one wall, you save both time and money. Plus, there are new tools available to make this job a breeze. Practically everything can be done with a roller, which means a wall can be completed in a matter of hours or as soon as base colors are dry. Even the faux work can be done using a specially designed roller. Most of the faux specialty tools will run between $5-$10, or you can save a few dollars by applying the faux finish with a rag, piece of sponge or even a wad of plastic wrap. It looks great and it’s really not as difficult as you may think. But, if you want some training, you can even get that for free at some of the larger home centers. Very often they will offer demonstrations and training at no cost during the weekend. Add the cost of some paint, and your project can still come in under $50

Ceiling Fans

`Next, we turn our attention upward. Many homes are equipped with ceiling fans. Over time, though, they can become dirty, ragged and somewhat distressed. Here’s a fabulous fix-me-up for your fan that will only cost a few dollars. Remove the fan blades and clean them of any dust and dirt. It may be that the blades are reversible, which means you have a totally different color on the other side. Another possibility is to simply purchase a set of replacement blades. You can buy packs of 4 or 5 starting around $12. Even if yours aren’t reversible or are a color that you don’t like, you can paint them! Take a little sandpaper and rough up the surface of the blade after you clean it. Wipe it down once again to remove any lingering dust from the sanding. Then, using a good quality spray paint - any color you choose - coat the blade with a thin layer of paint. Wait for that coat to dry, then apply a second coat. This will make a dramatic change in your ceiling fan.

For an even larger effect, install a new light kit at the bottom of the fan to completely alter the appearance. Most of the newer fans today either come with a light kit or can accept one. This is such a minimal cost for an impressive change.

Watch the segment on CBS The Early Show’s website.