With the feel of fall in the air, it’s time to think about getting your home ready for colder weather. Much of the routine maintenance that needs to be done this time of year will not only help keep you cozy this winter, it will also save money on your heating bill and protect your biggest investment—your home.

While most of these routine maintenance tasks are fairly simple, make sure they get done before cold weather arrives to prevent damage to both your home and wallet.

Seal Up Cracks and Gaps

If you added up all the small cracks, gaps, and holes around the outside of the average home, it would equal the area of an open window! To reduce the loss of heat, carefully inspect the perimeter of your home and caulk or weather-strip where needed. Both caulking and weather stripping can reduce the flow of cold air in and warm air out—lowering your energy costs substantially.

Check the following key areas for leaks:

• Around door and window frames.
• Exterior openings including electrical outlets, phone lines, outside faucets, and cable TV lines.
• Around heating and/or cooling units.
• The seal around room air conditioners.
• At corners formed by siding.
• Openings around drain pipes in bathrooms and kitchens.

How to Caulk

Now that you’ve identified the problem areas around your home, it’s time to seal them up:

• Start by cleaning the surface to remove dirt, loose paint, and old caulk.
• Determine which caulk to use based on the size of crack or gap and the surrounding material. Read our article on A Homeowner’s Guide to Caulk to find out more.
• Cut the tip off the tube of caulking at a 45° angle and load it into the caulking gun. Since the tip is tapered, the more you cut off, the wider the bead of caulk.
• Use a long nail or the puncture tool found on caulking guns to break the inner seal.
• Apply a uniform bead of caulk to the gap, making sure it covers both sides and completely fills the crack.
• Remove any excess then smooth the bead of caulk with your finger before it begins to set.
• Insert a tight fitting nail in the end of the tube of caulking to prevent it from drying out.

Applying Weather Stripping

Apply weather stripping at joints where two surfaces meet, such as around windows and doors, to give an airtight seal. There are several different types of weather stripping and each has its benefits and drawbacks. After you have chosen the appropriate weather stripping, follow the instructions that came with it for proper application.

• Tape – lasts only one year and should only be used on windows or doors that will not be opened. Tends to dry and loosen within one heating season
• Felt – lasts only one or two years and should be used on top or side of doors or window frames for sealing gaps of uniform width
• Foam – lasts only one or two years and should be used on the bottom of window sashes or around the frame of a warped or loose-fitting door (wood-backed foam)
• Tubular gasket and vinyl tubing – lasts around five years and can be used on windows or doors.

For more information on caulking and weather stripping, watch our video on How to Caulk and Seal Gaps and Cracks.

Inspect Your Roof

Check your roof for signs of minor damage such as missing, broken, cracked, or curling shingles, as well as bare spots where the granular coating has worn off. Be sure to make the necessary minor repairs now to prevent further damage. When moisture is able to seep up and under loose or damaged shingles far more expensive damage can occur. For extensive roof repairs, consider having a professional perform the work. However, if you are fairly handy and are comfortable climbing a ladder, you should be able to take care of most minor repairs.

Purchase roofing cement in caulking tubes to seal minor cracks and holes and glue down curled shingles. For bigger jobs, roofing cement is available in large containers. If the damage is extensive, or the shingle is missing, replace it immediately to prevent more serious damage from occurring. Also, if you have a fireplace, be sure to check for gaps around the flashing and caulk to seal.

Clean and Repair Gutters

Dirty, clogged gutters can cause a myriad of problems during the winter months including flooded basements and damage to your foundation and landscaping. To clean, simply remove all debris so that water can drain properly and consider installing gutter guards to prevent additional debris from building up. To see how it’s done, watch our video on How to Clean Gutters. More information on gutters can be found in our article on The Trouble with Gutters.

If you don’t enjoy climbing ladders, consider assembling a homemade gutter cleaner using long strips of PVC pipe attached to a regular garden hose. This will allow you to frequently and safely rinse out your gutters ensuring they do not become clogged. To see how it’s done, watch our video on how to make a PVC Gutter Cleaner

Trim Back Trees and Bushes

Trimming your trees and hedges in the fall not only leaves you with less mess, it also improves the appearance of your shrubbery and can prevent or correct a safety hazard. While power tools are terrific (and a must for a large number of trees and bushes) most seasonal pruning and trimming can be taken care of with a few affordable hand tools.

Hand pruners, hedge trimmers, loping shears, and a pruning saw will take care of most small branches and limbs. First look for and remove dead or diseased limbs, then cut back excessive growth and trim the bush into the desired shape. Read our article on Basic Shrub Pruning Techniques to see how it’s done.

For taller trees and thicker limbs, consider calling in a professional especially if branches are dangerously close to power lines. You may also consider contacting your town or utility company, as major tree trimming may be their responsibility.

Fertilize Your Lawn

Fall is a great time to fertilize your lawn as it provides grass with the nutrients required for the winter when the top layer of grass is dormant but the root systems continue to grow. During this period roots easily absorb and store the nutrients a good fertilizer will provide and fall fertilizing will also help your lawn “green-up” faster in early spring.

Depending on your part of the country and the type of grass you have, the correct fertilizer for your lawn many vary. However, almost all zones and lawn types require a fertilizer rich in nitrogen and phosphorus. Nitrogen affects the color, rooting, and disease resistance of a lawn, and a yellowish appearance may signal a nitrogen deficiency. Phosphorus is the key for strong roots and a lawn deficient in Phosphorus may have an unusual tint that may be on the purple side. A lawn rich in phosphorus will fight disease better and be more tolerant to extreme elements.

For more on fertilizing your yard, check out our article on Fertilizer 101 or watch our videos on Fertilizer Selection and Fertilizer Application

Storing Your Lawnmower

Now that you’ve cut your grass for the final time this year, take a few minutes to properly store your lawnmower so it will start easily in the spring. First, completely remove all fuel by either draining the gas tank or running it empty. Alternatively, consider adding a fuel conditioner and topping up the gas tank to prevent any moisture from condensing in the tank. Once you have added the conditioner, run the engine for a minute or two to circulate the additive through the carburetor. This will help prevent gum from forming in the fuel system or on essential carburetor parts.

Next remove spark plugs and apply a small amount of oil in the cylinder. Start your engine to burn off oil as well as lubricate the pistons, rings, and cylinder walls. Finally, wipe your lawnmower clean of all grass and debris and be sure to store it in a clean, dry area far away from any stove, furnace, water heater, or other appliance that uses a pilot light or can create a spark.

More information on maintaining your lawnmower is available in our article on Lawn Mower Maintenance

Related posts:

• Fall Yard and Garden Maintenance

Walk down the hardware aisle of any home center, and you’ll find an overpowering array of wall anchors and picture hangers. While it’s easy enough to drive a nail or screw through drywall and into a stud, many homeowners have problems figuring out how to secure items to the wall between studs or in hard surfaces like brick or concrete.

Here’s what you need to know about using wall anchors and picture hangers in your home.

Wall Materials

The type of anchor you use is often determined by the wall material. Drywall or wood paneling require little to drill or nail into while delicate surfaces like plaster take more finesse and hard materials, like masonry and concrete, require more muscle.

Drywall

Drywall alone has little holding power. When attaching lightweight objects (20 pounds or less), standard picture hangers or wire hangers work fine and do little damage to the wall. For medium weight items (20-40 pounds) consider a spreading type ribbed plastic anchors or threaded anchors. Heavy objects (over 40 pounds) require a fastener that distributes the weight behind the wall, such as a toggle or molly bolt.

Plaster

While a plaster wall may resemble drywall, it’s a much harder surface prone to cracking. Always predrill holes in plaster and avoid using fasters that apply pressure to the sides of the hole. For lightweight objects (under 3-5 pounds) consider adhesive hangers which don’t require a hole at all.

Wood

Fasteners attached to solid wood and plywood have great holding power if the material is thick enough. For thinner walls, such as plywood paneling, use robust fasteners like toggle or molly bolts or plastic anchors that spread out behind the wall. While nails do well in wood, screws provide much greater holding power and are easier to remove, though they do leave a larger hole in the wall. When nailing or screwing into wood, always drill a pilot hole first to keep it from splitting.

Masonry and Concrete

Plastic anchors or special hardened masonry nails are your best bet for attaching to these hard materials. Use a special carbide tipped masonry drill bit to predrill a hole for the fastener (a hammer drill does the job much faster and easier). Drill a smaller pilot hole first, then switch to a larger size bit to finish the job. On brick walls it’s easier to drill into the mortar joint than the brick itself, though the brick has greater holding power if it doesn’t break.

Wall Anchors and Fasteners

The different types of wall anchors and picture hangers that are commonly available include:

• Toggle Bolts: These robust fasteners come in a variety of lengths and bolt diameters depending on the amount of weight they are intended to support and the thicknesses of the wall they are used on. While able to support over 300 pounds in drywall in our tests, toggle bolts require an oversized hole in order to insert the spring loaded fastener. This prevents the bolt from fitting tightly in the hole and leaves a large hole when the fastener is removed.



• Threaded Toggle: These self-drilling fasteners are an improvement over standard toggle bolts since the shaft of the fastener fits tightly in the hole. Threaded toggles are easy to install, though they can be a bit tricky to remove, and safely supported over 200 pounds in drywall in our tests. On the downside, they leave a nice sized hole in the wall (though not as large as standard toggle bolts), and are expensive. For increased holding power, and to aid in removal, install with the long arm of the toggle pointing up.



• Molly Bolts: These often used fasteners are inserted in a hole drilled in the wall, or can be hammered directly into drywall without drilling. Molly bolts achieve their holding power by tightening up the bolt, which causes the casing to expand behind the wall. While supporting over 100 pounds in our tests, molly bolts have an annoying tendency to spin in drywall when being tightened and are impossible to remove once installed. Like toggles, they come in various lengths depending on the wall thickness.



• Threaded Anchors: These new fasteners on the scene are mainly used for drywall, with their deep threads providing increased holding power. They’re available in either brass or nylon, with a picture hook or center screw include with them. Threaded anchors are screwed directly into drywall and supported up to 80 pounds in drywall in our tests. While they provide good holding power and are easy to install and remove, threaded anchors leave a large hole in the wall behind.



• Plastic Anchors: While working well in dense materials—like masonry, concrete, brick, or concrete block—plastic anchors don’t provide as much holding power in softer surfaces like drywall as other types of wall anchors. If they are used on drywall, choose a ridged type of plastic anchor that flares out behind the wall. Once the anchor has been hammered into a hole drilled in the wall, a screw is inserted into the center that expands to press against the sides of the hole.



• Picture Hangers: Standard metal picture hangers have been around for years. They feature an angled nail that fits in the hook to increase their holding power. Picture hangers are inexpensive and available in a wide range of sizes. They supported between 40-60 pounds in drywall in our tests. While they don’t hold as much weight as other fasteners, picture hangers are simple to install and easy to remove with little lasting damage to the wall.



• Wire Hangers: Sold under brand names like Hercules Hook, and Monkey Hook, these lightweight fasteners consists of a curved steel wire that can be installed in seconds without tools. While some brands claim to hold as much as 150 pounds, they supported less than 50 pounds in drywall in our tests. Since most pictures weigh considerably less than that, wire hangers work well for light items. They are easy to remove and leave little damage but only work on hollow walls with no obstructions.



• Adhesive Strips: Adhesive hangers and hooks, such as 3M Command Strips, can be used to attach lightweight items without making a hole in the wall at all. . Adhesive strips will adhere to most smooth surfaces but they aren’t suited for bricks and other porous materials. They are rated for items weighing less than 3-5 pounds.

Further Information

• Testing Wall Anchors and Picture Hangers (article)
• How to Hang Pictures Right the First Time (article)
• Simple Jig for Hanging Pictures in Your Home (video)
• Keeping Picture Frames Level (video)

Painting a room is one of the most common do-it-yourself projects around the home. While it’s not that difficult to do, it helps to know the tricks of the trade on how to go about it before breaking out a roller or brush.

When painting a room, the work should be done in the following order:

1. Prep: Clean surfaces and repair any defects.
2. Prime: Where needed, prime the walls and trim.
3. Caulk: Fill any gaps or cracks with caulk.
4. Ceiling: Paint ceiling first to prevent drips on walls.
5. Walls: Apply paint to walls using a roller.
6. Trim: Paint trim last to avoid roller splatter.
7. Cleanup: Clean brushes and rollers, remove drop cloths, and replace furnishings.

Painting Preparation

Walls

Interior walls are usually painted with latex paint and can usually be repainted without priming unless the existing walls are:

• Painted a dark or vibrant color.
• Have stains, grease, or other hard to cover marks.
• Defects in the drywall have been patched.
• Previously painted with oil-based paint.

In these cases, prime first with a stain blocking primer. To cover repairs, you may be able to spot prime without having to prime the entire room.

Before painting, shine a bright light along the surface of the wall to check for dents or defects, and fill them using a putty knife and spackling compound. Once the spackling has dried, sand the surface smooth. On rough surfaces dab the patched area with paint on a sponge or rag to mimic the texture of the wall.

Trim

In older homes, interior trim was painted with oil-based enamel, but improvements in the durability of latex enamel now make it the popular choice. Before painting over oil-based paint with latex, it’s important to prime the surface so the new paint will adhere properly.

To determine if the old paint is oil-based or latex, rub it with a rag dampened with denatured alcohol. If the paint comes off on the rag, it’s latex. If not, it’s oil-based.

Caulking

When caulking gaps or cracks:

• Remove loose old caulking with a utility knife, scraper, or putty knife.
• Use a good caulking gun that can stop and start the flow of caulking easily.
• A quality acrylic latex caulk works best for caulking trim in most rooms.
• For high moisture areas, such as kitchens and baths, use a caulking that is mold and mildew resistant.
• 100% silicone caulk should only be used on surfaces that will not be painted, such as between the tub and tile in a bathroom.
• Apply caulk only to dry surfaces and when the temperature is over 50° F.

To apply caulking to a gap or crack:

• Cut the tip of the caulking tube to a 45° angle so the hole is the width of the crack.
• Puncture the seal in the tube several times using a nail or the seal punch on a caulking gun.
• Hold the caulking gun at a 45° angle so the opening in the tube is parallel to the surface.
• Lay down a smooth, even bead of caulk with little or no excess.
• Smooth the bead with your finger before it sets up. Dampening your finger with water (latex caulk) or mineral spirits (silicone caulk) can make smoothing easier.
• Allow caulking to dry thoroughly before painting or getting wet.

Painting a Room

Once the room has been prepped and you’re ready to paint:

• Remove furniture, wall hangings, light switch and receptacle covers.
• Apply safe release painter’s tape along baseboards and around window and door trim.
• Cover floor with tarp or plastic sheeting.
• Cut in ceiling edges and around light fixtures with brush.
• Paint ceiling with roller. Unpainted textured ceilings may be hard to paint.
• Mix the gallons of wall paint together in a 5-gallon bucket.
• Cut in the walls with a brush around the ceiling, switches and plugs, windows and doors, baseboards, and along inside corners.
• Use a quality roller and cover with a ½” to ¾” nap.



• Hook roller screen over the side of 5-gallon bucket.
• Dip roller in bucket and use screen to remove excess.
• Start at one corner of room and apply paint vertically to the wall over a 2’ wide area.
• Use light pressure on the roller at first, then press harder as the roller becomes less saturated with paint. Move the roller at a moderate pace to prevent splattering.
• Go back over the area to spread and even out the paint.
• Dip the roller in the bucket again and move to the adjoining 2’ area. Keep a wet edge between each section and smooth out any lines or drips.
• Clean up the brush, roller, bucket, and screen with water and dishwashing detergent in a sink or outside with a garden hose.
• If you’ll be using the same paint again the next day, wrap the wet roller in a plastic shopping bag and seal it with a tie to keep it from drying out.
• After the walls have dried, remove tape and paint the trim with a brush, going with the grain of the wood.
• Make sure the paint has dried thoroughly before hanging pictures and installing switch and outlet covers to keep them from sticking to the wall.

Further Information

• Homeowner’s Guide to Paint Primer
• Homeowner’s Guide to Caulk
• Interior and Exterior House Painting Tips
• Interior Painting Preparation (video)
• How to Paint Walls (video)
• How to Paint Trim (video)

Related posts:

• How to Paint Galvanized Sheet Metal, Gutters, or Valley Tin
• How to Paint Kitchen Cabinets
• How to Store a Paint Roller

Better Homes and Gardens received over 3,000 entries in their 2009 Home Improvement Challenge. A number of impressive home improvement projects competed for more than $60,000 in prize money in categories that ranged from kitchens and baths to renovation and decorating.

Contestants spent a total of over $112 million on their home improvement renovations, with an average expenditure of $36,000 per project.

In addition to a $40,000 grand prize, the top pick in each category received $2,500 for their efforts. Winning projects are featured in the September 2009 issue of Better Homes and Gardens magazine and will also appear on a special episode of Today’s Homeowner with Danny Lipford airing the week of September 21-27, 2009.

Home Improvement Challenge Winning Entries

• Renovation: (Grand Prize Winner) Dana Liston & David Ellis, Venice, CA
• Addition: Pam Schulz and Clark Dikeman, Culver City, CA
• Outdoor Improvements: Rick and Jacque Bailey, Brecksville, OH
• Kitchen: Ann Steenwyk, Sheboygan, WI
• Decorating: James Little, Naples, FL
• Green Improvements: Laura Stukel, Elmhurst, IL
• Bath: Meg Kopald, Shelburne, VT
• Exterior Facelift: Sonjia and Bob McKelvey, Belpre, OH
• Project under $5,000: Jackie Kalin, Valparaiso, IN

Home Improvement Challenge Grand Prize Winner

Grand prize winning home before . . .                     and after renovation.

Grand prize winners Dana Liston and David Ellis of Venice, California, completely transformed a 1,350 square foot, two-story bungalow into the house of their dreams, doing much of the work themselves.

Exterior Facelift Winner

Exterior facelift winning home before . . .                     and after renovation.

The exterior home facelift winners—Sonjia and Bob McKelvey of Belpre, Ohio—transformed the exterior of their home into a quaint cottage with the help of their architect son. Details such as shingle siding, eave brackets, and a paver walk added curb appeal.

Outdoor Improvements Winner

Water feature in backyard of Outdoor Improvements Winner.

Rick and Jacque Bailey of Brecksville, Ohio, were the winners of the Outdoor Improvements category for their beautifully landscaped backyard that featured stone walls and patio, an outdoor kitchen, and a splashing stone water feature.

Addition Winner

The addition winner’s kitchen featured a brightly colored ceramic tile backsplash.

When adding a kitchen addition to their 1940s home in Culver City, California, Pam Schulz and Clark Dikeman were determined to make the room as environmentally friendly as possible. This included using green building materials, solar roof panels, and windows above the cabinets and doors to capture the breeze and natural light. They also used a colorful array of ceramic tile in a random pattern for the kitchen cabinet backsplash.

Photos courtesy of Better Homes and Gardens.

Related posts:

• (696) Better Homes & Gardens Home Improvement Challenge 2009
• Homefront Radio Show for August 29, 2009
• Funniest Home Improvement Story Contest Winners

If you’re tired of your old plastic laminate kitchen countertops but don’t want the expense of replacing them with stone, Giani Granite Paint for Countertops might be just the answer. The DIY friendly, faux granite painting kit can make almost any surface—from plastic laminate and solid surface countertops to mantels and tabletops—look like granite.

The low odor, water-based polymer resin is made from automotive grade polymers for added durability. The kit retails for under $40 and comes with almost everything you need to finish 16 feet of countertop.

Giani Granite Paint for Countertops:

• For use on plastic laminate, solid surface, primed cultured marble, wood, primed drywall, primed acrylic or fiberglass shower stall walls, mantels, tabletops.
• Can’t be used on shower stall floors, bathtubs, sinks, other surfaces that will be submerged in water.
• Available in Sicilian Sand, Bombay Black, and Jet Black.

Kit includes:

• black primer
• minerals
• clear topcoat
• roller
• foam brush
• sponge
• black practice poster paper
• instructional DVD
• printed instructions

Application:

1. Clean countertop and backsplash with degreaser.
2. Patch any gouges or nicks and sand smooth.
3. Mask off walls, sink, and cabinets with painter’s tape.
4. Apply black primer using a foam brush to trim and roller for main surface.
5. Allow primer to dry for six hours.
6. Apply minerals to the primed surface using the included sponge.
7. Allow minerals to dry for two hours.
8. Lightly sand off any rough spots with fine (320 grit) sandpaper.
9. Apply clear topcoat with roller and brush.
10. Allow topcoat dry for eight hours.
11. Lightly sand off rough spots.
12. Apply second coat of clear topcoat.
13. Allow to cure for 48 hours before using.

More information, including ordering online, is available at Giani Granite Paint for Countertops.

Related posts:

• How to Join Seams in Granite Countertops
• How to Polish Granite
• How to Apply Polyurethane Finish

There was a time when lawn work was looked on as strictly the guy’s job. In fact, it often took the strength of Hercules to pull the crank cord a minimum of 10-12 times just to start the darn machine! Long gone are those days, though, as the lawn mower has evolved into a tool that any gender can operate with ease. You may think, however, that maintaining your mower is still a job best left for the man of the house. This, too, is simply not the case.

It’s very easy to take care of your mower; and, with some new innovations, yard work can actually be a fun chore. I’ll share with you some tips and tricks in keeping your yard picture-perfect and look at some of the great new mowers on the market to make life outside a lot easier.

1-2-3 Maintenance

At the start of the season, usually Spring, there are three main areas to focus on when it comes to lawn mower maintenance:

1. Change the oil: Even if you don’t think it needs it, do it! The oil should be changed at the beginning of every season. Over the course of the cutting season, dirt and other impurities will collect in the oil and those things will ruin an engine. Check with your mower’s owner’s manual for the proper procedure.



2. Change the spark plug: That little space at the end of the plug where the metal end bends at a 90 degree angle is called the gap. Many manufacturers are now packaging new plugs with the gap pre-set, so it’s as simple as removing the old and installing the new. However, it’s still a good idea to double-check the gap with an inexpensive spark plug gap tool just in case. Many people like to change the plug every year so you’re starting every cutting season with a new spark plug.
3. Clean the air filter: If the filter in your mower is an accordion-style paper type, simply remove the filter cover and blow out all the debris with a high-pressure air hose. This works well with an air filter that looks like . If the filter is made from foam, wash it in a water and detergent solution, let it dry, and apply a few drops of oil to it. In some rare cases, you may need to replace the filter, but most of the time, a simple cleaning will do.

Blades

I have separated the blade from regular maintenance, because this is more than just a standard upkeep. It takes a little extra effort to remove the blade and sharpen or replace the blade. Every year, though, this should be done prior to the first cutting. You need to have a sharp blade when cutting grass, otherwise it doesn’t cut the grass but, tears it instead, which can lead to a diseased lawn. Before removing the blade, be sure to detach the spark plug wire to prevent the mower from accidently starting. Then tilt the mower up and use a wrench
to loosen the bolt that holds the blade on by turning it counter clockwise.

Sharpening a blade can be done with a metal file, sharpening stone, or a motorized grinder. Regardless of the method used, follow the existing beveled edge on the blade by passing the file over the blade in the same direction each time. An even easier way to sharpen the blade is to use a small grinding attachment for your cordless drill. Just place the blade in a bench vice and you can hone the edge with no trouble.

Mowers

Push Mowers

For a small yard, a simple push mower is perfect. While some homeowners use push mowers to take care of a large yards, it takes several hours of work and defeats the whole purpose of making the chore easier. Don’t rush out and get the least expensive one, though. Remember, the whole point is to make yard work easier. A cheap mower won’t cut it, if you’ll pardon the pun. A larger cutting deck is a good feature. Many small mowers start at around 19”, but 21” is better. Also, think about how easy it is to crank and the type of bagging attachment (a rear bagger is easier to maneuver).

Battery powered cordless models are becoming more and more popular. Not only are they quieter and more environmentally friendly than gas powered models, but cordless electric mowers greatly reduce the maintenance needed, since they don’t need oil changes, spark plugs, or air filters.

Riding Mowers

For a large yard, riding mowers are the toy of preference. Professional services use ZTR (Zero Turn Radius) mowers, which can turn on a dime. The new ZTR’s are a work of art focusing not only on performance, but also on comfort and style. They can include shock absorbers, larger wheels for a more comfortable ride, cushy seat with armrests and even cup holders! The biggest drawback for many homeowners is trying to operate the ZTR’s with the two separate directional levers.

The cutting decks for riding mowers start at 42”. While most homeowners don’t need one that’s too big, a 48”-50” model is ideal. If you want the “cool factor” of a ZTR with the convenience of a traditional tractor, consider Cub Cadet’s iSeries Zero Turn Tractors. They have a traditional steering wheel while still giving zero turn radius.

Cutting Tips

Here are a few quick tips that will keep your lawn looking great:

• Don’t cut wet grass: Aside from having a tendency to clog the machine and leave clumps of wet grass all over the yard, wet grass won’t cut easily. It tears, just as it does with a dull blade.
• Set the cutting height to at least 1½”: Taller grass will hold moisture better and will also allow the root system to “grab hold” of the soil better, which means a healthier lawn.
• Don’t mow in the same direction every time you cut: For example, one week mow north to south. The next week, mow east to west. This prevents ruts from forming in the yard and also lets the grass grow thicker.
• Use a grass catcher for the first cut and last cut of the season: Use the mulching feature the rest of the time to reduce yard waste and add nutrients back into the yard.

Finally, if you need just a little more incentive to spend a day in the yard, remember this. According to the Journal of the American College of Sports Medicine, you can burn over 350 calories every hour you spend behind a push mower! Now that’s a great workout with added benefits!

Related posts:

• Environmentally Friendly Way to Mow Your Lawn
• Advantages of Rechargeable Cordless Lawn Mowers
• Greening Your Lawn for Spring Giveaway Winner

Danny Discusses Chinese Wallboard on the Early Show

As if homeowners didn’t have enough to worry about, they can now add toxic gases emitted by imported Chinese drywall to the list. Increasing evidence indicates that some of the over 500 million pounds of drywall shipped to the U.S. from China during the housing boom following Hurricane Katrina contained potentially toxic materials that can release gases believed responsible for damaging homes and causing health problems.

Risks to Health and Home

Some homeowners with Chinese drywall report a strong sulfur smell, similar to that of rotten eggs, permeating their homes. Health problems are said to include headaches, respiratory ailments, irritated eyes, and nosebleeds. In addition, the toxic gas is thought to be responsible for corroding copper and tarnishing silver, resulting in the failure of everything from computers and TVs to air conditioners and refrigerators. Even electrical wiring and switches have been affected, as have the silver on mirrors and jewelry.

When Imported

According to estimates, approximately 20 million square feet of Chinese drywall has been imported into the U.S. since 2004. It’s thought to have been installed in somewhere between 50,000 to 100,000 homes. Problems have been reported so far in over a dozen states including Alabama, Arizona, California, Florida, Georgia, Louisiana, Maryland, Michigan, Mississippi, Nevada, New Jersey, New York, North Carolina, Ohio, South Carolina, Texas, and Virginia. Homeowners in Florida have been the hardest hit, with over 140 complaints received and several class action lawsuits filed.

Tests Conducted

Corroded copper in refrigerator.

Tests conducted for the Florida Department of Health, found small amounts of the chemical strontium sulfide in samples of imported wallboard. When combined with humid air, trace amounts of the toxic gases hydrogen sulfide, carbon disulfide, and carbonyl sulfide were released.

Tests conducted on imported Chinese drywall by the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) found sulfur levels from 83 to 119 parts per million (ppm). Sulfur was not detected in the samples of U.S. made drywall that were tested. In addition, strontium was found at levels of 2,570 to 2,670 ppm in the imported drywall and 244 to 1,130 ppm in the U.S. manufactured drywall. Two organic compounds usually associated with acrylic paint were detected in the imported drywall but not found in U.S. made drywall.

Products Involved

Chinese drywall made by 20 different companies was imported into the U.S. between 2004 and 2008. Several of them—including Knauf Plasterboard Tianjin (KPT), Knauf Gips (KG), and Taishan Gypsum Co.—have been the focus of the lawsuits that have been filed to date.

What to Do

It’s impossible to determine the origin or manufacturer of installed drywall without removing sections of it, and even then, drywall is often poorly marked on the back or not marked at all. Since some imported drywall doesn’t appear to cause a problem, the best way to know if your house is at risk is the sulfur smell and by checking the copper in appliances for signs of corrosion. Tests on samples can then be conducted to confirm the presence of contaminants. If your drywall does have a problem, there is little that can be done to alleviate it other than tearing out all the drywall out and replacing it.

Most of the defective Chinese drywall was bought in bulk by contractors and was not sold at major national home improvement chains. Many of the top U.S. manufacturers—including Georgia Pacific, National Gypsum, and American Gypsum—have stated that they do not import drywall from China. USG, the maker of Sheetrock® brand drywall, has not issued an official statement in the matter, but when contacted, a representative of the company said that all their drywall is manufactured in North America. While some companies label their drywall as made in the U.S., others do not give a country of origin. When in doubt, try contacting the drywall manufacturer directly.

Further Information

• ChineseDrywall.com
• Is Drywall the Next Chinese Import Scandal? (Time, 3/23/2009)
• Testing Revels What’s in Walls (Sarasota Herald Tribune, 3/24/2009)
• Drywall Problems May Just Be Beginning (Herald Tribune, 2/1/2009)
• Drywall from China Blamed for Problems in Homes (USA Today, 3/17/2009)
• Chinese-made Drywall Ruining Homes, Owners Say (CNN, 3/18/2009)
• Drywall Has Material That Can Emit Corrosive Gas (CNN, 3/24/2009)
• China Blamed for Homeowners’ Nightmare (CBS News)
• Drywall Frequently Asked Questions (Florida Department of Health)

Related posts:

• Identifying Defective Chinese Drywall
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Cleaning and repairing the outside of your home doesn’t have to be a spring project, though it is nice to get outside and enjoy the warm weather after a long, cold winter spent inside. Here are some often neglected outdoor maintenance projects you might want to consider tackling.

Clean Exterior

A pressure washer can make quick work of cleaning the outside of your home, but be careful since the extremely high pressure can damage wood and other softer materials.

While scrubbing is not necessary with a pressure washer, adding detergent to the reservoir on the machine serves to loosen stubborn dirt and get the job done faster. Be sure to use a cleaner that is made for pressure washers and intended for the type of surface you’re cleaning. Cleaners are available for specific applications such as siding, decks, and masonry surfaces.

If mold or mildew is present, spray it with a product such as SporiCLEAN or Concrobium. A mixture of 1 part bleach to 4 parts water can also be effective on mold on nonporous surfaces. Wear protective clothing and rubber gloves when working with bleach or other harmful chemicals, and cover or wet down any plants or grass with water before applying. Allow the bleach mixture to remain on for 10 – 15 minutes, then wash it off with a hose or pressure washer.

Repair Driveway

Driveways and sidewalks need periodic maintenance, too.

• Start by removing any grass or weeds that are encroaching on the driveway or growing in cracks.
• Follow this by a thorough cleaning with a pressure washer to remove dirt and grime.
• Next, patch any cracks or holes in concrete surfaces with a concrete resurfacer.
• Worn asphalt drives can be restored by applying a coat of latex asphalt sealer to make them look good as new.

Clean Deck

Wood decks take a lot of abuse from the elements, and they need a good cleaning from time to time to look their best.

• Start by applying a specially formulated deck cleaner in a pump up sprayer.
• Once it has had time to work, clean the deck with a pressure washer—being careful not to damage the wood—or a long handled scrub brush.
• Rinse the deck, and allow it to dry.
• If refinishing is needed, apply a sealer or stain with a pump up sprayer, going over it with a brush to smooth it out.
• Allow the sealer to dry thoroughly before using the deck.

Clean and Repair Screens

Window screens can be cleaned by soaking them in a child’s wading pool filled with soapy water, followed by a gentle scrubbing with a soft scrub brush on a flat surface. As a final step, rinse the screen with a garden hose using a fine spray setting to keep from damaging the screen.

To repair small holes in screens, flatten the fibers out and brush on several coats of clear fingernail polish for a seamless repair. Large tears or holes are best fixed by removing the rubber spline from the screen frame and installing a new piece of screen using a screen spline roller tool.

Repair Roof

Spring is also a good time to examine your roof to see if winter snow and ice have caused any problems that need attention.

• Look for torn or missing shingles that might need replacement or repair.
• Pay particular attention to flashing around chimneys, plumbing vents, and other openings that are prone to leaks. Seal any gaps with roofing cement.
• Cover exposed nail heads with a dab roofing cement.
• Remove leaves, sticks, or other debris that has built up in valleys and against chimneys, porches, or dormers.

Ready the Grill

Whether its charcoal or gas, spring is a good time to get the grill ready for action.

• Use a wire brush and degreasing detergent to clean the wire racks and inside of the grill and remove any rust that has formed over the winter.
• Inspect burners on gas grills for deterioration from rust, and clean the surface. Make sure the holes in the burners aren’t clogged. If necessary, use a small piece of wire to clean them out.
• If the outside of the grill needs painting, prepare it first by lightly sanding the surface and washing it thoroughly to remove all grease. Once it’s totally dry, coat it with a high heat spray paint (often called barbecue and stove enamel).

Clean and Repair Gutters

Gutters are an often overlooked project that needs special attention in the spring. To clean and repair them:

• Make a homemade gutter scoop by cutting down a narrow plastic container such as an antifreeze jug, and use it to remove the bulk of the debris.
• Rinse out gutters without leaving the ground, by making a U-shaped gutter spray wand from ½” or ¾” PVC pipe and couplings. Glue a cap to one end of the pipe with several small holes drilled in it, then use two 90° elbow fittings to create the proper shape, with a threaded adaptor on the other end attached to a garden hose.
• Downspouts have a tendency to clog, so check them by running water through them, and use a plumber’s snake to unclog if needed.
• Check for leaks at gutter joints. When dry, repair gutter leaks from inside the gutter with gutter sealant.

Clean Windows

Spring pollen and dirt can work a number on your windows, so take the time to wash them down and clean them once the pollen has settled.

• Work in the shade to keep the cleaner from drying out too quickly.
• A 50/50 mix of white vinegar and water makes a great natural window cleaner.
• Use crumpled up newspaper, rather than paper towels, to clean and dry your windows.

Related posts:

• How To Clean Windows
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• (703) Everyday Home Ownership: Maintenance and Repair

You don’t have to empty your bank account to reduce your energy and water bills. In fact, adopting these simple tips will actually save you money while helping the environment at the same time. So whether you’re interested in going green to reduce your carbon footprint, or gaining green in your wallet, it makes sense to save energy.

Heating and Cooling

• Turn the thermostat down in winter and up in summer.
• Lower thermostat when away from home and asleep at night.
• Open curtains or shades on the south and west sides of your house on sunny days during cold weather.
• Close curtains or shades at night during the winter.
• Close curtains or shades on the sunny sides of house during the day in hot weather.
• Run paddle fans clockwise on low during the winter to circulate air, and counterclockwise during the summer (when in room) to feel cooler.
• Check ductwork on HVAC system for leaks. Patch ducts with metallic tape or duct mastic.

• Change your air filter every 1-3 months.
• Check to be sure the fireplace damper is closed when not in use.
• Install solar blocking film on windows.
• Weather strip around doors and windows.
• Install foam gaskets on plugs and switches on exterior walls.
• Insulate fold-down attic stairs.
• Caulk cracks and gaps around outside of house.
• Add insulation to attic.
• Plant deciduous trees on south and west sides of house.

Lighting

• Turn lights off when not in use.
• Replace incandescent bulbs with CFLs.

Electronics

• Turn off TV and computers when not in use.
• Set energy saving options on computers to put on standby when not in use.
• Unplug chargers for cell phones and tools when not needed.

Washing and Drying Clothes

• Clean the lint filter and vent pipe regularly on clothes dryer.
• Don’t overload the dryer.
• Dry clothes on a clothes line rather than in the dryer.
• Wash clothes in cold water.
• Run only full loads of clothes in the washer.

Hot Water

• Turn hot water heater down to 120° F.
• Insulate hot water pipes.
• Drain water heater yearly.

Kitchen

• Use microwave rather than oven for cooking.
• Use a crock pot instead of oven and burners for cooking.
• Run only full loads in dishwasher.
• Don’t prerinse dishes before putting in dishwasher.
• Turn off dishwasher drying cycle, open door and air dry instead.
• Clean coils on refrigerator.

Bathroom

• Take showers rather than baths.
• Install low-flow showerheads and aerators.
• Repair running toilets, dripping faucets, and leaking pipes.
• Replace old toilets with water efficient, dual-flush models.

Lawn and Garden

• Install motion detectors on outside lights to reduce use.
• Water the lawn and plants sparingly if at all.
• Collect rainwater from gutters in rain barrels for watering.
• Set lawn mower blade higher and cut grass less often.

Related posts:

• How to Save Energy When Drying Clothes
• Home Energy Audit Finds Ways to Save Energy
• Save Energy with Window Film

Fewer people are buying new homes, but everyone wants to improve what they have. With money tight right now, how can remodeling be done more reasonably without the results looking cheap?
Here are a few ideas:

1. Plan, Plan, Plan

Consider using in-house designers and decorators. Most home centers offer people that can help you design your kitchen, choose the right flooring, paint colors and more. This service will give you confidence in your selections without the added cost of hiring an independent decorator. Decide on the entire scope of work to be done before you start. Try to avoid moving electrical, plumbing, ductwork, or walls if possible to keep the cost down.

2. Give It a Try

Even if you’re not the handiest person on the block, you may still be able to do some of the work yourself to help make the project more reasonable. Maybe you can handle the tear out or removal of the wallpaper, plumbing fixtures, trim, etc. Or perhaps your can tell the contractor you will do all the clean-up or painting. Any help you provide can cut down on expensive labor costs.

3. Save, Reuse, Renew

If you decide to do the tear out yourself, take care not to damage useful items, since many of them can be used again. Light fixtures, trim, doors, hardware, and cabinets might be able to be used on the same project, in a different project at your home, or donated to a Habitat for Humanity Restore for a tax write off.

4. Looks Expensive, but It’s Not

There are many products now available that “mimic” the look of more expensive materials. Below are four examples, the cost differences and what you could save in a typical application.

Countertops

Granite: $79/sq. ft.

Granite Plastic Laminate: $38/sq. ft.
_______________________

Savings: $41/sq. ft. x 30 sq. ft. (average kitchen countertop space) = $1,230

Tile Floors

Ceramic Tile: $4/sq. ft.

Vinyl Tile: $1/sq. ft.
______________________

Savings: $3/sq ft x 100 sq ft (10’ x 10’ floor) = $300

Wood Floors

Installed Wood Flooring: $9/sq. ft.

DIY Laminate Flooring: $3/sq. ft.
______________________

Savings: $6/sq. ft. x 200 sq. ft. room (10’ x 20’ room) = $1,200

Interior Doors

Solid Wood: $78

Hardboard: $37
__________________

Savings: $41 x 12 doors (average typical home) = $492

I hope this helps you improve your home without breaking the bank!

Related posts:

• (680) How to Remodel Your Home for Under $1000