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Concrete and Masonry, Flooring, Kitchens and Baths, Interior Published 10/19/2006 by Danny Lipford
Installing tile over a wood subfloor is a lot easier today than it was when I started my remodeling career. The old-fashioned mud method — floating a thick mortar bed in preparation for the tile — has given way to using cement backerboard. The cement board is inexpensive ($10 or less for a 1/2-in.-thick, 3×5-ft. sheet), easy to cut and install and sufficient for most installations. Among the trade names you’ll see are Durock, made by U.S. Gypsum Corp., and PermaBase, from National Gypsum Co.
Manufacturers provide clear installation instructions with their products, but there are a few other important points you need to know to guarantee a long-lasting installation. For example, I always like to remove the old flooring material so I can check the subfloor for any water damage. Years of water seeping along the edge of a bathtub or shower can cause areas of rot that need to be repaired.
If everything is in good shape, my carpenters drive corrosion-resistant screws through the plywood and into joists below to ensure a firm foundation for the tile. We set the heads of all screws and any existing nails slightly beneath the wood surface. And we use a lightweight gypsum leveling compound to fill and level voids or low spots. We’ve found that if you take this kind of care with the prep work, the finished tile won’t crack with use.
The proper fasteners, mortar, tile adhesive and joint tape are all specified by the manufacturer. Don’t use drywall screws — ever. Another mistake I often see is grout wedged between the last row of tiles and the tub, cabinets or doorsill. Grout in these transitional areas will crack as the floor goes through expansion and contraction. These areas should get a bead of acrylic caulk so the joint remains flexible.
I’m often asked by homeowners if it’s possible to lay down new tile over an existing tile floor. This is not my favorite way to install tile, but it can be done, as long as the existing tile and subfloor are in good condition and the old tile gets scuffed to let the new mortar get a grip. The combination of newly applied mortar and tile will raise the level of the floor by at least 3/8 in. Trimming the bottom of the bathroom door and building up the doorsill usually hide the fact there are two layers of tile instead of one.
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May 25th, 2007 at 12:13 am
My husband and I are renovating a rental house and want to use ceramic tile in the kitchen. We were wondering what the proper technique is for installing the tile in the areas where the refridg., range, and cabinets will be installed. Should we tile the whole area or just those areas that will be exposed to the necked eye?
Allen Says:May 29th, 2007 at 9:24 am
Tiles should always be installed under the refrigerator. My opinion is that they should also be installed under the stove. However, under the cabinets is purely by choice. The only obstable is if you have a dishwasher. Installing tiles will typically cause a slight irritation if you try to remove the dishwasher after the fact, because the added height of the ceramic will snag the feet of the dishwasher. Now, if you are removing the cabinets, you may want to put in the ceramic first. This will totally eliminate any potential dishwasher problems. The other benefit is that you have fewer odd cuts to make. The drawback is that you use more materials and, if subbing it out, will pay more for installation. Again, it’s a matter of opinion. I always like to put the floor in before the cabinets in case of a future remodel.
June 7th, 2007 at 5:52 pm
I am installing ceramic tile in my kitchen, I have installed the tile under the fridge, but when the fridge is pushed back ub place the tile cracks. What can i do?
July 9th, 2007 at 1:24 am
I WOULD CHECK THE LEVEL OF YOUR FLOOR ,FIRST.THEN I WOULD GET A GOOD MORTAR FOR THE TILES.MIX IT PROPERLY,REPLACE YOUR TILES .THEN DO A GOOD GROUT JOB .IF ALL ELSE FAILS ,REPLACE YOUR FRIDGE.
August 15th, 2007 at 4:36 am
I have old pine kitchen cupboards, I have varnished them, but the tops are just too soft, and gets stained too easily. i want to tile the tops of counters. how do i go about this?
Ben Erickson Says:August 15th, 2007 at 10:41 am
Adele,
If the old cupboard tops are solid wood, seasonal movement could cause problems, so I would remove the existing tops and store them in case you ever decide to return to the wood look. After you have removed the tops, screw 3/4″ exterior plywood to the top of the cabinet (from the bottom if possible, so you can easily remove the tile tops in the future should you change your mind) and attach 1/2″ cement backer board to it with thinset mortar and screws as detailed above. The edge of the tops can be finished with either bullnose tile or a wood molding that matches the cupboards.
August 29th, 2007 at 8:04 am
I am removing the old particle board subfloor before installing tile. There is good plywood beneath the particle board that I am keeping. I believe the cabinets are installed on top of the subfloor. Unfortunately, at the floor level the there is about a 2 ” indentation before where the base of the cabinet meets the floor. Do you have any suggestions of how I can cut or remove the subfloor so that it is flush with the cabinet? Any recommended tools? I am not having any problems using a circular saw and a crow bar to make cuts and remove the rest of the subfloor.
September 10th, 2007 at 2:46 am
I have a couple of questions. First, I want to install ceramic tile in my bathrooms, currently they have the peel and stick vinyl, the subfloor is plywood, What do I need to install in order to put down ceramic tiles? I have been told two or three different things, cement backer board. a leveling compound, and I was also told I could install it directly over the plywood(which I think would be a mistake because of the properties of wood. If I use the backer board, do I need to remove the cabinets and install it under them also. and also install the tile all the way under the toilet, or just up to it? My second part of the question is I am going to install wood flooring in the kitchen(Floating) the current floor is vinyl and is in good shape with no bubbles or tears. Can I just put done the underlayment over the vinyl and then install the floor without removing all the vinyl? Also Do I need to remove the baseboards and install the wood flooring all the way to the walls(of course with the 1/4 inch gap for expansion, or can I leave the baseboard and install the wood flooring up to the baseboards and cover the edges with shoe moldings. I want to do it correctly but don’t want to go to all the trouble removing the baseboards if I don’t have to. I also am wondering this about hte bathrooms, Remove the baseboards? All the information you can give me would be greatly appreciated. I am also installing new cabinets in the kitchen and am planning on installing the wood flooring all the way under the cabinets before they are put down so I will have a level floor and won’t have any problems if I do have a problem with the dishwasher. Is this a good idea? Thanks for your help.
September 16th, 2007 at 9:47 am
i moved into a new home and i dont like the tile. the question is can i install a wood floor over the tile
September 17th, 2007 at 7:44 am
We are putting in a tile floor in our kitchen and our current cabinets are older and cheaply made. (probobly the original ones when the house was built about 20 years ago.) Eventually I am wanting new ones, but we cannot afford them right now. How do you deal with the tile floor when putting in new cabinets? Can you pop up the tiles along the edges and then reset them after the cabinets are installed? It makes sense to me to do it that way, but I’ve always heard that you should put in new cabinets first and then tile the floor around them. What do you think? This is only the second time we’ve ever put in tile, and it was in a bathroom before. Thanks so much!
September 18th, 2007 at 10:01 pm
PleaseI am waiting for the answer to Kenndy
questions, because I am face with the same problems, don’t know what to do about laying tile on a subfloor or use a backerboard. Help I been dealing with this for about two years. I need some expert advice. Thanks.
October 17th, 2007 at 6:39 pm
Hi.
I am laying tile onto the subfloor (good condition). I am having a problem with tiles popping up. The mortar has a good set on the floor and tile but still comes loose. The mortar is almost granular.
Is there a better (specific, please) mortar I can use?
Also, do you think its ok that I am laying the tile directly to the subfloor (3/4 plywood)?
thanks you
Allen Says:October 18th, 2007 at 11:15 am
Holy cow….so many questions! First of all, we’ve got a show coming up very soon on a bathroom makeover. It would be a great one to watch for some cool tips, including putting down a tile floor.
More specifically, let me see if I can answer some concerns. First of all, tile definitely should not be put down over a wood sub-floor. However, there is a new product by Schluter called the Ditra System. It is an orange colored membrane designed as a backer for tile. It’s thin, flexible, unique in shape which is supposed to make it ideal for putting tile on wood, especially if the height is a concern. Now, understand, I have never used it, so I’m only relaying what the manufacturer claims. But, I’ve seen it at the Builder’s Show and, I have to admit, it looked pretty impressive. It is more expensive, but it could be a better alternative for some of you. Otherwise, put down a tile backer board, preferably 1/2-inch.
Secondly, there’s really no need to remove baseboards to install tile. You can either leave a small space (no more than a 1/4 inch) between the tile and the baseboard, then grout that gap…or you can put down a shoe moulding. Personally, I don’t like shoe on tile. By the way, the same goes for that floating wood floor, Kenny. Just bring it up close to the base and let your shoe cover the gap.
Third, tile goes under the toilet. Before you start a tile job, pull the toilet. You’ll have nothing but frustration and grief if you try to cut the tile up to the toilet.
Mike, I think your popping tiles is directly related to the sub-floor. You need a backer. 1/2″ or try that Schluter product. You can have the best mortar in the world, but you’re getting movement and moisture coming up and it will definitely pop those tiles every time. By the way, use a mortar that is enhanced with latex. Seems to be a better bond.
Kathryn…you shouldn’t have to pop out any tiles to remove old cabinets. Usually, they will come out without disturbing the tile if done so carefully. The trick will be finding new cabinets with the same “footprint” to replace the old ones. If you are going to get custom cabinets, that won’t even be an issue. They can match the base and toekick to fit back into place without having to do any kind of floor work.
Wow….that’s a lot of words! Be sure to let me know about any projects you’d like to see Danny and me tackle on the show. From these comments, I think we need to test that Ditra System out. What do y’all say?
October 18th, 2007 at 12:52 pm
Yes I think you all should come and try the Ditra system out on my basement. ( as I sit here trying to figure out what to put down instead of carpeting that won’t require the expense of a contractor) lol..
November 2nd, 2007 at 4:31 pm
I just read about another product called Blanke-UNI-Mat PRO that seems like it would be wonderful for me to try out in my bathroom, kitchen, utility room, and entryway tile installations I am about to do. I have not yet purchased it, however it is only 1/8″ thick and seems like it will be excellent to match my tile to the laminate flooring (heighth wise). Does anyone have any recommendations for transitions between tile/laminate, if any are really needed. I am considering just butting up the tile to the wood, without an expansion gap. Is this a poor idea?
Allen Says:November 5th, 2007 at 12:17 pm
Justin, we had a similar transition (tile/wood) in Today’s Addition, which just aired recently. You can butt the laminate to the tile as long as they are the same height and fill any gap with a colored caulk to match the laminate. It looks really good. But, if the floor heights are different, you’ll need the transition strip. A lot of the laminate manufacturers make a strip for that purpose and it matches the flooring.
I’ve never heard of the Blanke-UNI-Mat PRO, but I’ll sure look into it. I’d really like to see some of this stuff in a real world situation.
November 14th, 2007 at 9:20 am
I am installing ceramic 12 inch by 12 inch tiles in my foyer (150 sq ft). I am laying the tile on a plywood sub floor above a basement. The floors joist are 19″ on center. Should I install durock before laying the tile? I was thinking 1/4 durock and 1/4 tile which would make my floor height almost the same as my hardwoods in the other rooms. I want to ensure there is not cracking if possible. Thanks Chris
November 21st, 2007 at 10:28 am
your floor joists are to be 16 on center ?
Allen Says:November 21st, 2007 at 4:59 pm
Chris…definitely put down the durock. I prefer 1/2″ for tile floor, but I’ve seen 1/4″ work.
Lee…16-inch on center is nice, but floor joists can be up to 24-inch on center depending on the material used for the sub-floor.
November 25th, 2007 at 9:09 pm
Laid 1/2 durock and all worked out well. Floor seems very stiff so I am happy. Thanks
December 2nd, 2007 at 12:13 am
We had a guy install ceramic tile in our kitchen and did a horrible job. He left dust all over our kitchen, family and pretty much the entire first floor our house. Then not to mention, he removed our island and put the ceramic tile under our dishwasher. Needless to say we are not happy with the work.
But I have a few questions:
1. I know appliances live the fridge and dishwasher should be removed but should an “island” be moved?
2. Do you typical tile under a dishwasher or just put in a backer board? Right now, our dishwasher is not “plum with our cabinets and the feet have been removed. So it’s sitting flat on the floor.
3. When would you use backer board thicker than 1/2 inch???
Thanks in advance for your comments
December 9th, 2007 at 9:40 pm
It is not necessary to remove an island. As for the dishwasher you need not put either the backer or the tile. I usually adjust the feet up all the way and insert a block of wood under neath the appliance to keep it up as far as possible until the job is done. I also make sure to run the backer board under the front feet and also the tile under the front feet going back a few inches. Most dishwashers have the adjustable feet on the front and rollers on the back. As long as you can get the front to be able to pull out of it’s opening the rest of the appliance will come out if you need to do repairs or replacement. Now, you need remove that front bottom panel and block it up and/or find some new feet at a hardware store.
There is no need to use a backerboard thicker than 1/2″. There are ways to raise a floor lever more than 1/2″ but not necessarily with cement board.
December 18th, 2007 at 9:50 am
I am asking this question because I am a real novice and I am not sure that recent work I had done is right. I am having a house built and we had tile floor installed. Here is the pattern of work;
1. Floor and framing
2. Cabinets including refrigerator enclosure
3. 1/2″ Fiber board and tile
Should the fiber board have been installed prior to the cabinets? They had to remove the fiber board and tiled in order to put in the dishwasher. This just does not seem very practical, but then again I am not a contractor by trade. It would seem that the stove and refrigerator enclosures will be a half inch off now. I am not sure how to approach this and the GC keeps saying everything will look fine, but to me that does not mean it is right.
Kind regards
December 29th, 2007 at 3:01 pm
What a GREAT site this is!! My husband and I are getting ready to tile our entrance way, hall, bathroom, dining room, kitchen and laundry room (all connected) We were going to put hardwood floors but have decided last night to do tile. My question is: We both work full time and have three boys; can we start laying the backer board down in stages on the sections of tile that I have just pulled up and walk on it for a few weeks. Because of time, we will be doing this in sections. Will the backer board tollerate walking, possibly a food or drink spill and still do it’s job when we actually start the tiling? The floor under what i just pulled up is rough and dusty and I am afraid that my kids may get cut or splinters. (The old tile is only two years old but kept breaking and moving because the previous owner didn’t lay backer board down and went right over hardwood floor and on the other end of the room over vinyl. He wanted it to look nice for a quick sale) Second question: Can we lay and grout a section of tile like the bathroom and then next weekend do the hall and entrance way, then the following weekend do the kitchen? All the rooms connect. Thank you for what you are doing for people like us!
Allen Says:January 2nd, 2008 at 2:53 pm
Hey Cindy. So glad to hear you enjoy our web site! The backer board is tough stuff, so it’ll take plenty of abuse. As far as grouting in stages….shouldn’t be a problem as long as it’s not too much of a delay in between. The fact that you are planning to grout the full room, i.e. bath, hall, entry, will help. What size tile are you laying? Sounds like it’s going to make a big difference! Send us a before and after picture! I’d love to see it!
January 4th, 2008 at 11:46 am
Hi…I am having a ceramic floor professionally installed in our kitchen. We chose to remove the previous flooring ourselves to save money. My question: I need to remove the subflooring without removing the cabinet bases. Is there any way other than using a cut off blade in a dremel type tool to get close to the base? Thanks in advance for your time and response.
January 6th, 2008 at 6:28 am
Here is a nice adapter to offset a Reciprocating Saw blade - this will do the trick - there are less expensive ones out there. Enjoy.
http://www.drillspot.com/products/348450/Paws_Off_FCA-007_Offset_Blade_Adapter
January 11th, 2008 at 1:02 am
Hi, I am in the process of tiling our bathroom floor and I am wondering if you can help. We have hardwood floors that have been let go for too long that they are not worth saving (it’s an 80 yrd old house). The tub toilet and cabinets sit on top of the existing hardwood floors and I am wondering if I can just install a thin subfloor over the hardwood and then tile on top of the subfloor. There is a squeak in a couple boards in the existing hardwood otherwise it is pretty solid. Could I secure the subfloor to the existing hardwood without jeopardizing the whole project? Clearance won’t be too much of an issue provided we don’t use thicker than 1/4 ” subfloor. Hopefully you can help.
Cheers,
Jeff
January 25th, 2008 at 12:41 am
I have a question: I am remodeling a 1953 original bathroom in a ranch home that is built on a pier and beam foundation. The bathroom floor is constructed of the mesh, concrete mud, then tile. There is NO subfloor. The old floor is almost 1 3/4 inch thick. Should I just tile over the old floor, or remove the tiles only, or remove the entire floor, mesh, concrete and all and install plywood and hardiboard, then tile. I’d rather use the old concrete that is there because it is so sound that I think anything else will likely be more apt to crack in the future. The old tiles are a mixture of 2 inch or smaller smooth matte finish tiles with miniscule grout lines that are flush with the tile surface. Can I tile right over them especially since it is all relatively level and matte finish? Thanks Jon
Allen Says:January 29th, 2008 at 12:53 pm
Hi Jon…If the old floor is in as good condition as you say, there’s really no reason why you couldn’t tile right over it. In fact, the porcelain tile we installed in a recent bathroom remodel (Show #641), was placed on the exact type of old tile bed.
January 30th, 2008 at 3:10 pm
I am going to have tile installed in my home. I have one installor that would use backerboard and one installor that would use the mud method. Which installation method is best?
January 31st, 2008 at 11:18 am
This is a wonderful site. I am remodeling and would like to butt a tile floor right up next to a wood floor without a threshold covering the seam. Is there something you recommend to help? I assume there will be some separation but I would like it to be minimal.
February 12th, 2008 at 11:35 am
I am going to tile my kitchen that has an existing glue-down hardwood floor. I attempted to remove one small plank last night and could not believe how stubborn it was to get up. The plank seperated and left the bottom half still glued down. Some folks at a local tile warhouse siad I could screw down cement backerboard over top of the hardwood and lay the tile. Is this O.K.? If not, what is a good method of removing the hardwood without a scale saw to cut the floor into quadrants. Thanks.
February 13th, 2008 at 11:43 pm
I am about to start a project and my question is if 1/4″ backerboard is enough ontop of an inch of ply-wood(3/4 sub plus 1/4 underlayment)? I also plan to set the the 1/4 inch backerboard in a bed of thin set as well as using screws. Thank you.
February 14th, 2008 at 10:39 pm
I am planning to install tile in my kitchen that currently has lenoleum. I plan on removing the lenoleum and subfloor all together in preparation for the new backerboard. What is the best way to cut around the kitchen base cabinets so I can remove the existing floor up to the cabinets? Do you know of a tool that will work for this?
February 15th, 2008 at 8:35 pm
hey Paul I just did that very thing today. I used a utility knife and repeatedly scored the lenoleum at the base of the cabinet. Also for really tough spots I used a roto-zip with a wood cutting bit.
With what are you going to replace the sub-floor?
February 18th, 2008 at 11:11 pm
Thanks for your reply. I plan on using 1/4″ HardieBacker as a subfloor for the tile. The floor construction uses 3/4″ plywood and I am trying to keep the height to a minimum so my transitions with adjacent flooring isn’t too abrupt.
February 20th, 2008 at 2:58 pm
I had a contractor replace the 12×12 cermic tile in my kitchen and he used an acrylic mastic instead of backerboard and thinset. he said the mastic would be sufficient and that I did not really need the backerboard. Now i have a few tiles that are loose and the grout lines are cracking. My contractor guaranteed the floor for a year and he will come back but I am concerned that he will never fix the problem. What can i recommend he do to these loose tiles so that they do not become loose again? Thanks
February 24th, 2008 at 5:17 pm
I am preparing to tile a kitchen floor. The subfloor is 1/2 inch particle board on top of 3/4 inch plywood. I plan to install 1/4″ hardyboard as a backing for the tile. Do I need to remove the particle board and bond the hardyboard directly to the plywood or can I bond the hardyboard to the particle board? What type of mortor will work on the particle board if any? Thanks.
March 9th, 2008 at 2:18 pm
I have some questions regarding waterproofing before installing tile in a kitchen. Is it necessary/recommended? I have seen two types: One called RedGuard from Custom Building Products (avail. at Home Depot) is a roll on/trowel on product. The second I saw in a DOI book is a thin film/membrane that is laid over an adhesive. Which is recommended? Also, My subfloor is OSB with Exposure 1 rating. Can I use either on my subfloor? What about the 1/8″ expansion joints in the floor - should I avoid filling them with the membrane (RedGuard) or is that not an issue. Thanks for whatever input you can offer.
March 13th, 2008 at 5:19 am
Hi I have a question about porcelan tile installation? My floor is 1×12 boards laid diagonal to the floor joists, which are on 16 in centers.I was hoping to use half inch cement backer board and thinset to lay the tile. I know this is done with osb wood flooring, which comes in 4×8 sheets. A contractor stated I would need to lay osb on top of the 1×12 or remove the 1×12 and lay osb.He said it would be due to the 1×12 wood drawing moisture and flexing during season changes. Installing osb on top of the 1×12 could possibly create heighth problems with the dishwasher,outside door, and transition with the carpet. thanks
March 17th, 2008 at 4:04 pm
I may be in trouble…….
I was looking for some advise on Grouting and have read about applying tile.
Here’s the issue, I put Ceramic Tile and Thinset directly to 3/4″ OSB on 12″ engineered trusses 16 on center WITHOUT A CEMENT BACKER BOARD…… I am not going to rip it all up to start over now.
My question:
What should I expect and how long before I endup replace or….. will it most likely be OK?
March 21st, 2008 at 11:05 pm
We have 1/2″ plywood subfloor in our kitchen. Tiler is planning on installing 1/2″ Durock over this and laying 13″x13″ porcelain tile. Will this subfloor be strong enough?
Thank you for your help
March 25th, 2008 at 10:52 pm
hi i’m trying to install porcelain tiles in two bathrooms( upstairs). the bathrooms have vynil flooring now.
my first question is : can i just install backerboard over the vynil and then the tiles? and if it’s the case do i need 1/4″ of 1/2″ backerboard for the application?
second question: if i decide to remove the vynil( if it’s the best option), do i have to remove only the sheet of vynil or is there something else that i have to remove or install before installing the backerboard( the house was built in 2004 so the subfloors are still in good shapes)
thanks
March 30th, 2008 at 1:57 pm
Hi i have a question i was wondering if you can help! I recently layed ceramic tile under my wood stove in my family room. They have cracked and broke all over… I was then told that i needed to have a sub floor… What do i do? Would 3/8 in plywood work? I’m so confused… Please give me your advice
March 31st, 2008 at 11:21 pm
I’m replacing my tile in the foyer/entryway of my home. My husband pulled up all the old marble, and we are replacing it with ceramic tile. I have a contractor who told me that he plans on laying concrete first instead of Durock; have you ever heard of that?
Durock was used in both of my bathrooms.
April 5th, 2008 at 3:44 pm
I am interested in putting ceramic tile in our laundry room where we now have linoleum. Because it will be difficult to remove the washer/dryer and extra fridge, is it possible to move the appliances out from the wall and tile there, then wait until the tile is dry then move them back over the new tile and do the rest of the floor?
April 7th, 2008 at 4:08 pm
Hi I am tiling the floor in my bathroom, should I remove the toilet and tile underneath or should I tile aound the toilet.
April 11th, 2008 at 2:48 pm
I am turning a 3×5 wash closet into a 7×10 bathroom. I have everything framed out and the plumber is coming in to rough in everything. My question is the flooring. I exposed the subfloor and and is 2×5 wood planks. What should i do if i am to put tile down? should i rip out the subfloor and put in 3/4 plywood, then use durok, or a self leveling compound? or do i put self leveling compound ontop of the existing subfloor? do i put plywood on top of the sub floor and then durlok or self leveling? Does the bathroom floor have to be level with the floor in the hallway ( it is about 3/4 higher right now) whould should i do?
April 11th, 2008 at 7:56 pm
Jackie, same question was answered several postings above yours.
April 11th, 2008 at 7:59 pm
Reading all the questions & answers is a great lesson in what to do & what not to do concerning tiling. I feel like I’ve learned alot in the time it took to read through.
THANKS FOR MAKING THIS FORUM AVAILABLE
April 11th, 2008 at 8:07 pm
Jackie, Sorry I shd have been more specific. See middle of October 18th ‘Allen’ posting above for toilet/tile answer.
April 24th, 2008 at 3:51 pm
Hi,
Do I leave a space around the island in the kitchen when putting down ceramic tile as I will wround the walls and use trim or should I just put the tile flush with the island?
Thanks,
Ron
April 25th, 2008 at 12:25 am
We are building a raised hearth for under a wood burning stove. The hearth is BCI’s topped with 3/4″ OBS subfloor. The next layer is 1/2″ Hardibacker. The final surface is ceramic tile.
Is motar needed between the OSB and Hardibacker? If yes, what is recommended for under a woodburning stove. Can we use the same motar or thinset for the tile as well? Or do you recommend a different approach?
April 25th, 2008 at 1:03 pm
Hello,
I think I really messed up my tile project. I recently removed lenolium from my bathroom floor there was still a lot of backing from the lenolium left on the floor that I didn’t remove. On top of that I put the tile on the original wood floor. There is an area in the bathroom that creaks. I used the morter that I was told to use, but now I am really afraid that after my hard work and sweat, my floor is going to crack. What are the chances of that happening and how can I prevent it or fix it? I plan on doing a little more homework for the next project I take on…
May 4th, 2008 at 9:21 pm
Hi,
I’ve read through all the comments and I see that others have had the same issue I’m having, but I still don’t fully understand how the solution. I’ve got 1/2 inch hard wood flooring in my kitchen and I’m replacing it with tile. The flooring was laid first and the cabinets on top. What tool do I use to cut around the base of the cabinets? I have a roto zip saw, but did not see an attachment that would work. Thanks for your help in advance!
May 7th, 2008 at 6:06 pm
I am installing ceramic tile in my kitchen, dining room and laundry room which are all seperated by standard door ways. My stepdad came to town and began laying the tile in the dining room. He did not have time to lay it in the kitchen and laundry room. We installed backer board, thin set and then tile. When we got to the kichen door the backer board and subfloor ware perfectly even and it would allow us to continue without using a transition strip. A neighbor suggested that we just put mastic over the subfloorand tile…not using the backer board. Is this possible? If so what is the difference between mastic and thin set??
Thanks for your help, I am clueless!
May 8th, 2008 at 1:50 pm
We are right smack in the middle of tiling our shower-tub.We were told by an employee at a home depot in the tile department that we should tile the walls over OSB and not the drywall. The employee stated that the drywall would absorb the moisture of the adhesive, and that the OSB would not. Soooooo.. we install OSB on the walls of the shower-tub, over drywall. So, here I am reading these forums…and now we are out of finances to re-do or install any other kind of walls. We are out of finances because the township made a mistake on our building permit on another home we had spent 4 years building, and had to sell it as a ‘camp’. Thats another very painfull story at a loss of about $80,000…so now we are starting over, just one mile up the road. We are remodeling and guttig walls..etc, but now we are on a very very very tight budget. So, I need encouragement that we can do this tile on OSB and is there any kind of paint or sealer that I need to paint over the OSB to help protect it before I put the tile up. We are also ‘busting up’ the tile pieces. We want a mosaic look, no straight lines to have to deal with..we’ve dealt with enough, we don’t need to have to deal with straight lines too.
… and if you’re wondering, we did not sue the township, small town, turns out it was a family member that made this shocking mistake, and would have lost his job, and he has 2 babies at home..so we opt to sell the home as a ‘camp’ and move on. So back to encourageing us. Since we did go on the advice of the home depot employee, is there anything we need to do to the OSB ‘before’ we install our ‘busted up’ pieces of tile?
Allen Says:May 9th, 2008 at 7:49 am
Hey Liz….A lot of people tend to interchange the words “mastic” and “thinset” with the mentality that they are the same thing. And, sure enough, both are good adhesives. Mastic is usually used in dry locations and CAN be used to set floor tiles. However, thinset is what I recommend for tile flooring, especially the modified version that has a latex additive. It will do a superior job and is easier to work with. Of course, this is all just my humble personal opinion..:-)
May 9th, 2008 at 4:28 pm
We paid professional to lay 12×12 tile in mudroom,kitchen and foyer last summer. Floor is 3/4″ T&G ply, 2×10 joists 16″ OC. Put 1/4″ hardibacker on ply, screwed in app. every 8″, no thinset under it. I have loose tiles in foyer (not enough thinset around edges), but what concerns me more is the “crunching” sound in the kitchen high-traffic area, where no grout is cracking (yet). I can pull up loose tiles around edges of foyer and reset/replace them, but what do I do about the areas that are just noisy, look sound? Should we put in more (1″ or shorter) screws from underneath (basement)?
May 11th, 2008 at 4:11 pm
My home is on a concrete slab. If I am going to replace all kitchen cabinets and tile the floor, optimality, should I tile the whole floor then place the new cabinets on the new tile?