Comments on: Installing Tile Over A Wood Subfloor

by: Jimmy T

Thu, 17 Jul 2008 17:18:12 +0000

I am getting ready to lay ceramic tile in my kitchen, hallway, and both bathrooms. I have pulled up the sticky back linoleum. I have 3/4″ plywood floors. I have been told that I can use Ultraflex2 mortar without using the cement board. Is this okay?

by: Greg

Wed, 02 Jul 2008 22:58:24 +0000

When my house was built, the builder encompassed my jetted tub with 3-4 inch square tile. He only left a wooden access door for servicing the motor. Now I see that this was not such a great idea, since, I now need to conduct some maintenance on the push button on/off switch, which by the way has no access and can not be reached from the motor access door. When I removed one of the tile I noticed that there’s wood in which the tile is attached. Also, the tile is just hanging on the wood without any backer board, is this normal? Once I decide to remove enough tile and cut a hole in the wood to access the switch, how will I replace the removed tile with some type of wooden access door. Is the process of attaching tile to a verticle base the same as attaching tile to a wooden floor (horizontal base)?

by: Jason

Sat, 28 Jun 2008 20:54:19 +0000

I installed my down stairs tile on concrete and it turned out great but now i have moved upstairs and people are talking about water damage from the thinset which is where i learned about back boarding then something came to mind, the walls are always bowed and thier is a space between the boarding and the wall, what do i use to seal these areas, and should i put plastic under the backboarding to decrease the risk of water damage.
P.S. i live in vegas

by: Determined Lady

Fri, 27 Jun 2008 23:33:55 +0000

This is a great site! I am a disabled housewife and my husband works odd hours and all the time. I am determined to give our kitchen and adjoining dining area a face lift. I have started the removing years of stain, varnish and paint that was on the cabinets when we moved in and also took a peak under the cracking ceramic tile flooring. I found that there was no type of moister barrier between the sub floor which looks like plywood and the ceramic tile itself. I am hoping to get some suggestions on how to handle this. I want to make sure that when I do rip up the flooring that I make sure that what ever type of flooring I replace it with will have a good sound sub floor under it so it will last this time. So I guess I have many questions the first being: After I rip up tile, what can I lay over the sub floor to make sure that it will be sound and water resistant without having to put a new sub floor in. (the sub floor should be still in good condition)?
If I choose to install a floating floor all the way through from dining area to kitchen, what steps should I take to make sure that it is done correctly? (the dining room already has a wood flooring on it however it appears to be laminate and needs to be replaced because of water damage in front of back door area? Please help with advice and maybe good inexpensive materials to use. Thank you so much

Determined

by: Andy Spear

Thu, 26 Jun 2008 20:16:33 +0000

To follow Mr. Perez, is it necessary to leave expansion spaces between the hardy board or at the edges meeting the wall?

by: Ernesto Perez

Mon, 16 Jun 2008 17:32:07 +0000

I was told by a sales rep for porcelain tile. He told me that I should space the hardy board and thin set in between them, and thin set underneath them to reduce vibration cracks. Is this necessary? What are some other ways to help if I already placed the hardy board?

by: Thomas

Thu, 12 Jun 2008 21:58:21 +0000

My kitchen has hardwood floors on top of 2×4s (wide side down)on top of a concrete slab. I’m wondering if all I have to do is put down backer board to be able to have a tile floor. My bathroom already has tile, but I would like to take up the tile and put down new tile so that the floor will be the same height as the hallway. How would tile have been laid in a 1955 ranch? If a mud job was implemented how hard will it be to take the tile up?

by: Vince

Fri, 06 Jun 2008 21:09:27 +0000

My wife and I are looking to finish off a small outside courtyard and were considering tile vs pavers vs concrete.

Can we build a subfloor for the courtyard, and tile over it, or are we doomed to failure and replacement with pavers or concrete?

by: OTIS

Mon, 26 May 2008 23:49:28 +0000

I am preparing to lay VIFAH Diagonal Deck Tiles
over a recently rebuilt wood subfloor of a small (4′x10′) bathroom. These indoor / outdoor
eucalyptus wood tiles seem perfect for this project, but I have two concerns:
The tiles are raised off the floor by plastic
interlocking grids under the wood slats (12″x12″) which snap together and require no glue, nails, etc.; nor grout between them.
What should I use over the subfloor to allow
water and moisture to wick between slats and not cause rot and mold?
Also, have you tried this product, and do you have any other product options for a wood deck type flooring in the bathroom?
Thanks!

by: john

Fri, 23 May 2008 00:55:00 +0000

Hi good insites thank you, do you have a phone number for ditra systems for tile over wood and what about lows in sub floor.
john