Testing Wall Anchors and Picture Hangers
Design and Decor, Interior, Tools & Hardware by Ben Erickson
Whether it’s a priceless work of art or a collection of family photographs, it’s important that what you hang on your walls stays put. While attaching directly to studs provides the most security, they are often not located in the ideal spot, and screws and nails provide little support in drywall alone.
We put some of the more common fasteners to the test to see which ones held the most weight in drywall, caused the least damage, and are easiest to use. For shear holding power, anchors that spread out behind the wall did the best, but they also did the most damage to the wall. Since most pictures weigh less than ten pounds, the size of the hole and ease of installation may be more important than the actual holding ability of the fastener.
Test Results
Tests were conducted using downward pressure on a hollow section of standard ½” drywall. While all of these fasteners can be used in plaster as well, the holding power may vary and precautions should be taken to keep the wall from cracking.
Prices are approximate and may differ depending on brand and quantity. While the fasteners pulled out of the wall at the pounds listed (except for toggles, which remained intact), they started showing signs of failure at 10-30 pounds less, so be sure to include an adequate safety margin in your calculations.
| Fastner Type |
Price Each |
Hole Size |
Pounds Failed |
|---|---|---|---|
| Toggle Bolt (1/4″ bolt) | $ 0.75 | 3/4” | 300+ |
| Threaded Toggle | $ 1.50 | 3/8” | 200+ |
| Molly Bolt (1/8″ bolt) | $ 0.50 | 1/4” | 170 |
| Threaded Anchor (brass) | $ 1.20 | 3/8” | 130 |
| Threaded Anchor (plastic) | $ 0.45 | 3/8” | 110 |
| Plastic Anchor (medium) | $ 0.20 | 1/4” | 80 |
| Picture Hanger (large) | $ 0.50 | 1/8” | 80 |
| Picture Hanger (medium) | $ 0.20 | 3/32” | 70 |
| Picture Hanger (small) | $ 0.15 | 1/16” | 60 |
| Picture Hanger (WallBiter™) | $ 0.80 | 3/16” | 100 |
| Wire Hanger | $ 0.75 | 1/16” | 50 |
Toggle Bolts
Toggle bolts are available in various diameters and lengths to accommodate different wall thicknesses. While the clear winner for sheer holding power, they require drilling a large opening to insert the spring loaded toggle, leaving them wallowing in an oversized hole. Also, they are almost impossible to remove without the toggle falling off inside the wall.
Threaded Toggle
New self-drilling threaded toggles offer improvements over traditional ones since the hole fits tightly around the anchor and the center screw can be removed while the toggle body remains in place. They are easy to install, though difficult to remove. For maximum holding power with hanging objects, position them so the long arm of the toggle points up. This also makes it possible to remove them without tearing up the wall. On the downside, threaded toggles leave a substantial hole and are the most expensive of any of the anchors tested.
Molly Bolts
Like toggles, molly bolts work by spreading out behind the wall. They are installed by hammering them into the wall then tightening the bolt, which causes the casing to flair out. Mollies have an annoying tendency to spin in drywall when being tightened and are impossible to remove once installed. Your best bet is to hammer them below the surface of the wall and spackle over them. On the positive side, mollies fit snuggly in the hole and the center bolt can be removed and replaced as needed.
Threaded Anchors
The oversized threads on these anchors are designed to screw directly into drywall. They’re available in nylon or brass and come with either a center screw or picture hook. The brass version with hook held more weight than the center screw type. While threaded anchors hold well and are easy to install and remove, they leave a nice sized hole behind should you decide to redecorate in the future.
Plastic Anchors
These often used fasteners are hammered in a hole drilled in the wall and press against the sides when a screw is inserted. Though they work well in hard materials, such as brick and concrete block, they are not the best choice in drywall. For best results use ribbed anchors that are split, which allows them to spread out a bit behind the wall.
Picture Hangers
Traditional metal picture hangers come in several sizes and are nailed into the wall. While they don’t support as much weight as many other fasteners, they are easy to install and remove, and leave a much smaller hole.
A new twist is the WallBiter™ which is available in either plastic or brass. This molded one piece hanger has two curved prongs that are hammered into the wall. While only rated at 25 pounds, the large plastic version we tested held 80 pounds before beginning to show signs of failure. On the down side, it causes more damage to the wall than traditional picture hangers and costs more.
Wire Hangers
Another newcomer to picture hanging is a curved spring steel wire that can be inserted in the wall without tools in a matter of seconds (sold under brand names such as Heavy Duty Wall Hanger, Hercules Hook, and Monkey Hook). While some brands claim they hold up to 150 pounds, in our tests they began to pull out of drywall at around 40 pounds and failed at 50, which is still more than most pictures weigh. Wire hangers are easy to remove and leave a small hole. However, they cost more than traditional picture hangers and will only work where there is not a stud or other obstruction present in the wall.
The latest innovation in picture hanging hardware is a thin curved spring steel wire
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10 Comments on “Testing Wall Anchors and Picture Hangers”
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November 10th, 2008 at 06:10
Our company, Novus Innovation Inc, have designed, patented and licensed an innovative and unique form of attachment mechanism. This patented techonology is simple and lends itself very well to the picture hanging industry. FYI, we are currently looking for a suitable company to manufacture and market the Grip IT picture hangers under an exclusive license agreement.
Kenneth W Sharp
March 21st, 2009 at 19:13
There is a new product called Wall-nut that is not listed. It has the same benefits as a toggle bolt without the oversized hole (just a 3/16″ hole will do) and is much less expensive. It is a great retrofit and is also excellent for new installations.
July 26th, 2009 at 07:54
I am preparing the walls in my house for painting. The previous owner used a lot of picture hangers, which from your photos I am guessing are “plastic anchors.”
The screws have come out, but now the question is, how do I get the dratted anchors out of the walls without brute force chiseling or something? Thanks…
Ben Erickson Says:August 4th, 2009 at 10:34
Hi Trudy,
If your walls are drywall, the best approch is to tap the anchor gently a few times with a crown head hammer to form a dent in the wall a 1/16″ or so deep. Be careful not to hit it hard enough to cause the paper on the drywall to break. Next, use a putty knife and spackling or drywall joint compound to fill over it, anchor and all. If needed, apply a second coat of compound after the first has dried. Finally, lightly sand the patch when dry and paint over it.
November 12th, 2009 at 00:53
Hello,
I need to install an art piece on drywall it is 63″ x 99″ and weighs 165 Lbs..
Is that possible?.. Assuming the above chart is correct it means that toggle bolts shoud do the work? how many?
Any reccomendations or suggestions?, I just want to prevent any tragedy..
thanks
Ben Erickson Says:November 12th, 2009 at 09:56
Hi Maria,
That’s one heavy piece of art! I would attach it using multiple wires and hangers (at least two: one on each side). Attaching hangers into studs with long screws is much better than attaching to drywall alone. If the studs won’t do, use toggles, threaded toggles (my personal favorite, remember to orient them so the long arm will be facing up for increased strength and to make removing them easier), or molly bolts (make sure they are the right size for the wall thickness). Good luck with your project!
November 20th, 2009 at 00:16
An alternative is the Thumbs Up! Tool Free picture hanger, it goes into drywall easily, with thumb pressure then locks in place with a simple 1/4 turn. Just push,rock and lock. Since they lock in place they resist withdrawal better than the wire hanger. They are also less likely to damage insulation or contact wiring in the wall.
January 10th, 2010 at 13:54
I have an old window that I want to hang on my PLASTER wall, I’m not sure how much it weighs…maybe 30pounds?? I have bought the plastic anchors w/ #10 screws but the package doesnt say how much weight they will hold. Can you help??
Thanks!
February 27th, 2010 at 09:14
Hi,
I have a mirror that weighs approx 100 lbs. I have 2 options for mounting it on the drywall.
1. Ook professional picture hangers rated at 100 lbs/hook or
2. NoStud drywall picture hanger rated for 200 lbs.
I’ve looked on the internet and have not found anyone that have used either of these 2 items but their website have sworn by them….
Any recommendations?
Thanks denny
Ben Erickson Says:March 1st, 2010 at 10:05
Hi Denny,
We haven’t tested the NoStud or OOK hangers, but here’s my take on them and your project:
>100 pounds is a lot of weight to support, so I would use a separate wire on each side of the mirror and two hangers.
>If possible, install the hangers to studs (assuming the mirror is at least 16″ wide and the studs are located where you would like to mount the mirror).
>If you do attach to studs, you won’t be able to use the NoStud hanger, so you would need to use the OOK one.
>If you don’t attach to the studs, use a hanger that provides support behind the drywall , like the threaded toggle and molly bolt in the article above, since they provide much more support than hangers that rely just on nails, though they will more damage to the wall.
>Of the two hangers you’re considering, if you’re not attaching to studs, the NoStud hanger should support more weight since it provides support behind the wall, though it will do more damage to your wall.