Wood-Look Flooring Alternatives
Flooring by Danny Lipford
Few flooring materials are as visually appealing as wood. We install a lot of traditional solid-wood flooring, but many of my customers are opting for one of the alternatives to solid wood because it usually costs less.
The most inexpensive way to get the wood look is with sheet vinyl (about $2 per square foot installed). It comes in patterns that mimic a wood-strip or parquet floor. Vinyl is a real bargain, and it can be a good choice in a sunroom or family room. But it is not nearly as durable as other options, and it doesn’t quite look like the real thing. I have seen some patterns that make you reach down and tap it to be sure, but for the most part this flooring has a plastic look.
A second option is to install an engineered wood floor (about $7 to $11 per square foot, unfinished). This flooring comes in strips the same width as traditional wood, but it is about half the thickness. It’s laminated wood, like plywood, with a top veneer of whatever wood species you want. We glue the flooring directly to a concrete slab or wood subfloor. Because it is unfinished, we recommend this type of flooring when the homeowner wants us to match an existing wood floor. For about $1 more per square foot, you also can buy a prefinished version of this flooring.
There are a couple of things to keep in mind if you decide to go with this flooring. For one, the surface veneer is relatively thin, so you have to be careful when sanding. It also can be a challenge to install this flooring because it is thinner than traditional wood flooring. On some jobs we’ve had to adjust the floor framing, add another layer of subflooring or even pour a slightly thicker slab so old and new floor levels would meet. You have to plan ahead.
We’ve had very good luck with a third choice: laminate flooring from companies like Formica, Pergo and Wilsonart ($8 to $15 per square foot). We’ve installed dozens of these floors, and my customers love their durability and the way they look. This flooring, roughly 3/8 in. thick, has a very tough top layer that resists wear and is nearly impervious to stains. It is typically installed over a thin foam pad, which helps to make the finished floor quieter while smoothing out minor imperfections in the subfloor. Unlike other types of flooring, this one is not nailed or glued to anything but itself: The tongue-and-groove joints are glued together, and the whole floor floats on top of the foam pad.
No, it’s not real wood, but it can be installed much more quickly, which saves time and money. And best of all, it’s trouble-free. I’ve never had a single callback on any of the laminate floors we’ve installed. I certainly can’t say that about wood.
April 15th, 2007 at 8:40 am
What preparation is recommended for concrete slabs prior to installalation of laminate flooring?
Where can more information on this subject be obtained?
April 29th, 2007 at 11:17 am
Wood this be good in a kitchen
May 12th, 2007 at 11:21 pm
Not good for Kitchen or baths as this floor sits on a vapor barrier which traps water under the laminate in case of a water leak which will cause the product to warp if not dried up In a very short time.
May 27th, 2007 at 3:58 pm
my floor has a dip in it how can i fix it
May 28th, 2007 at 11:34 pm
By dip, do you mean a warp (center is lower than sides of 1 or more pieces or you refering to the slab?
June 24th, 2007 at 10:46 pm
ive seen this flooring coated with polyurithan and it looked good and leveled it out. they say you shouldnt doit but it looks good i’m sure you have to put many thin coats but i saw it in a drug store and it really looked great. need feed back.
December 10th, 2007 at 10:26 pm
What I don’t like about the laminate wood floors are they sound hollow when you walk across them. Is there any option that is easy to install but looks and “sounds” like real wood?
January 10th, 2008 at 8:14 pm
I am thinking about putting down laminate wood floors throughout my house. Kitchen, baths and laundry room, included. Would that not be a wise choice??
March 30th, 2008 at 8:13 am
I have never finished a floor before. I am re-finishing approximately 330 sq.ft. I am also finishing 200 sq. ft. that was covered by carpet and had dogs urinating on it. /they left some stains in the oak flooring. I have done all I can to get rid of the stains. Are these steps good, In the order I mention, &, can I continue as I am specifying? Should I put 3 coats instead of 2? I also have an “air purifier”. Is it a good thing to use while finshing the floors?
I have a steam mop. I heard on a home improvment show that a hardwood flooring contractor said he “Highly recommended the mop on hardwood floors. Is this a good idea to use such a mop between coats for cleanup of dust?
I am refinfishing an old hardwood floor in my home. I am racing the clock for an apraisal this coming Friday 4-4-08. Can I go ahead and:
#1. vacuum w/a high powered vacuum to remove the dust from sanding.
#2. use a “Liebman mop” well wrung out to get up any dust not picked up (prior to installling cherry stain & poly).
#3. Stain floor.
#4. Put down 1st coat “High Glooss Minwax Polyurethane”
#5. Wait 6 hours.
#6. Now coat w/semi glooss (same brand).
#7. How long before the 4 of us can safley walk on the floors.
#8. Can I use the lambs wool applicator for poly, clean w/mineral spirits,& re-use?
#9. Do I have to get a buffer to finish between coats or do I need to use steelwool or 220 sandpaper? Thank you for Your help Danny!
Signed: ” Desperate & needing professional advise/answers”!
Pastor Cary Brown
September 27th, 2008 at 1:16 pm
Though laminate floors are easier to install they do not add any valve to your home.Wood or engineered wood will add value even though it is harder to install.
October 13th, 2008 at 7:50 am
i want to replace some strips of the wood look flooring (not real wood)there is one spot where thewood grain look got completely wore out. how do i go about removing the few worn stips down now.thanks a bunch. Bruce