<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?><rss version="2.0"
	xmlns:content="http://purl.org/rss/1.0/modules/content/"
	xmlns:dc="http://purl.org/dc/elements/1.1/"
	xmlns:atom="http://www.w3.org/2005/Atom"
	xmlns:sy="http://purl.org/rss/1.0/modules/syndication/"
		>
<channel>
	<title>Comments on: (616) Today’s Bath 2</title>
	<atom:link href="http://www.dannylipford.com/diy-home-improvement/kitchens-and-baths/616-todays-bath-2/feed/" rel="self" type="application/rss+xml" />
	<link>http://www.dannylipford.com/diy-home-improvement/kitchens-and-baths/616-todays-bath-2/</link>
	<description>Expert Advice on Home Improvement</description>
	<lastBuildDate>Sat, 20 Mar 2010 15:36:02 +0000</lastBuildDate>
	<generator>http://wordpress.org/?v=2.9.2</generator>
	<sy:updatePeriod>hourly</sy:updatePeriod>
	<sy:updateFrequency>1</sy:updateFrequency>
		<item>
		<title>By: Deborah MetzAndrews</title>
		<link>http://www.dannylipford.com/diy-home-improvement/kitchens-and-baths/616-todays-bath-2/#comment-10890</link>
		<dc:creator>Deborah MetzAndrews</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 17 Nov 2007 18:17:53 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://new.dannylipford.com/television/todays-homeowner/616-today%e2%80%99s-bath-2/#comment-10890</guid>
		<description>I tore out an existing fiber glass  enclosure, one piece, tub and shower. Wanted to do some adapting and make it an enclosed shower only with ceramic tile and glass blocks mounted over top of a half way to allow for the interior lighting to access the shower area.
Debate after debate, about whether a vapor barrier is needed over top of stud walls, (with insulation installed) or whether the concrete board can be nailed directly to the studs, with tile then placed on top of backerboard. 

I stopped the friend that offered to help when I saw he did not follow my direction, telling me &quot;it was not necessary&quot;. I am sick. It has been more than several months and every time I walk in there I get angry.

I wanted: 1. a vapor barrier over the insulated stud walls (exterior and interior). I was going to use what was in my 20 year old house, on the floor and wall before- tar paper/ felt. Inexpensive and had worked well in the area as I saw when tearing out the old.
2. concrete/backer/dura roc board &quot;screwed&quot; on the wall over vapor barrier.-- Not the bent over pounded in nails that are currently holding up a few pieces. ( This was done by someone doing this for a living.)
3. what is best for constructing a seat area-solid concrete block overlapping or build a seat with pressure treated wood and cover over with a barrier and concrete board?
 While visiting and showering- saw a &quot;synthetic marble&quot; used in shower. The three walls were each one piece, maybe caulked at corner seams (some type of joinery. At the edge at the shower door I would guess the thickness to be about 3/8&quot;. My cousin said it was that way when they bought the house about 15 years ago and no problems. 

Like you I worry about the grout lines, the grime, cleaning tile in a bathroom and/or kitchen. And as in the kitchen, the breaking of every dish that hits it or breaking every tile when a cast iron skillet may fall...What could this substance be on the shower walls? Type of solid counter top used on walls is my guess. Is this practical? Easier to clean, no grout lines...
Thank you,
Deborah</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I tore out an existing fiber glass  enclosure, one piece, tub and shower. Wanted to do some adapting and make it an enclosed shower only with ceramic tile and glass blocks mounted over top of a half way to allow for the interior lighting to access the shower area.<br />
Debate after debate, about whether a vapor barrier is needed over top of stud walls, (with insulation installed) or whether the concrete board can be nailed directly to the studs, with tile then placed on top of backerboard. </p>
<p>I stopped the friend that offered to help when I saw he did not follow my direction, telling me &#8220;it was not necessary&#8221;. I am sick. It has been more than several months and every time I walk in there I get angry.</p>
<p>I wanted: 1. a vapor barrier over the insulated stud walls (exterior and interior). I was going to use what was in my 20 year old house, on the floor and wall before- tar paper/ felt. Inexpensive and had worked well in the area as I saw when tearing out the old.<br />
2. concrete/backer/dura roc board &#8220;screwed&#8221; on the wall over vapor barrier.&#8211; Not the bent over pounded in nails that are currently holding up a few pieces. ( This was done by someone doing this for a living.)<br />
3. what is best for constructing a seat area-solid concrete block overlapping or build a seat with pressure treated wood and cover over with a barrier and concrete board?<br />
 While visiting and showering- saw a &#8220;synthetic marble&#8221; used in shower. The three walls were each one piece, maybe caulked at corner seams (some type of joinery. At the edge at the shower door I would guess the thickness to be about 3/8&#8243;. My cousin said it was that way when they bought the house about 15 years ago and no problems. </p>
<p>Like you I worry about the grout lines, the grime, cleaning tile in a bathroom and/or kitchen. And as in the kitchen, the breaking of every dish that hits it or breaking every tile when a cast iron skillet may fall&#8230;What could this substance be on the shower walls? Type of solid counter top used on walls is my guess. Is this practical? Easier to clean, no grout lines&#8230;<br />
Thank you,<br />
Deborah</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
</channel>
</rss>
