How to Install a Granite Tile Countertop
Kitchens and Baths by Jared Libby
While granite is a popular choice for kitchen countertops, the high cost of materials and installation can put a big dent in your home improvement budget. A less expensive alternative to a pricey granite slab is to use 12”x12” granite tiles instead. Not only do granite tiles make an attractive and durable countertop, they’re easy to apply and weigh much less than a solid granite top, making it a perfect DIY project.
Tools Needed:
- Level
- Square
- Tape measure
- Safety glasses
- Carbide tipped scoring tool
- Circular saw
- Drill with screwdriver bits
- Jigsaw
- Notched trowel
- Rubber padded grout float
- Sponge
- Stone polisher (rent)
- Tile saw (rent)
Materials Needed:
- ¼” x 12” x 12” granite tiles
- ¾” plywood
- ½” cement backer board
- Screws
- Masking tape
- Thin-set mortar
- Unsanded grout
- Grout sealer
Install Plywood Substrate
Begin by removing the existing countertops, then check to be sure the cabinets are level—both left to right and front to back.
Cut a piece of ¾” plywood to serve as the base for the top, making sure to allow for the desired overhang. For a thicker look, double the plywood, or glue and screw a strip of wood along the outer edge of the top. With the plywood in position, measure from the cabinet to the edge of the plywood.
Transfer this measurement to the top of the substrate, adding half the thickness of the cabinet frame, and mark the location for the screws.
Drill holes and screw the plywood to the top of the cabinets.
As an alternative, the plywood substrate can be screwed from underneath to brackets or a ledger strip located inside the cabinets.
Apply Cement Backer Board
Once the plywood substrate has been screwed down, cover it with ½” cement backer board. Cut the backer board to size by scoring it with a carbide tipped scoring tool and breaking it much as you would drywall. While cement board can also be cut using a circular saw, it makes for a very dusty job, so work outside and be sure to wear a respirator and safety glasses.
Screw the cement board to the plywood, being sure to countersink the screws below the surface.
Cut 2” strips of cement board and attach them to the edges of the substrate flush with the top.
Cut the hole for the sink using a jigsaw. Most new sinks provide a template. Measure carefully to be sure the hole is centered over the base cabinet.
Fitting the substrate around the stove will vary depending on the type of cooking surface you have. A freestanding stove requires no substrate while a drop-in type will need backing between the stove and wall.
Polishing Edges
Polish any exposed tile edges before installation using a polisher specifically designed for stone.
A stone polisher uses a series of coarse to fine pads. Begin with a coarse pad in the 50-150 grit range and work up to 3000-5000 grit.
Rough or sharp edges can also be rounded using the polisher. Both wet and dry polishers are best used outside, as the process can be messy.
Laying the Tile
Use a notched trowel to spread thin-set mortar on the cement board substrate.
Lay full tiles on the outer edge first, butting them together. Remember to overhang the tiles to allow for the edging.
While granite tiles average ¼” thick, individual tiles can vary. To compensate for thinner tiles, use a thicker bed of mortar. Check with a level as you go to be sure all the tiles are the same height.
Cutting Tile
Once the full tiles have been laid, use a tile saw to cut pieces to fit along the wall.
Both tile saws and polishers can be rented at tool rental centers.
Since it may be hard to see marks on granite, a strip of masking tape can be applied to the tile to make them easier to see.
Edging and Backsplash
When the top is complete, apply thin-set to the side of the cement board substrate and position the edge tiles. For a uniform look, align the joints with the top. Use tape to hold the edge tiles until the mortar has dried.
To form a backsplash, apply thin-set to the drywall and press the tiles in place.
Applying Grout
Even though the tiles are butted together, the narrow seams need to be filled with unsanded grout. Use a rubber padded grout float to force the grout into the seams then wipe off the excess with a damp sponge.
Once the grout has dried thoroughly, apply a high quality sealer to the seams to prevent stains.
Install the sink, faucet, and appliances to complete the job.
108 Comments on “How to Install a Granite Tile Countertop”
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June 1st, 2008 at 7:51 am
This counter looks great. Are there problems with the grout joints getting wet? How much would it cost to put this together?
June 7th, 2008 at 7:56 am
How do I prepare the surface to install 2 large pieces of granite on an outside countertop?
July 7th, 2008 at 8:31 pm
Hi, I am in the process of installing a granite tile counter top and forgot to apply any adhesive to the underneath side of the backerboard. Is this a huge problem? Also, I can not seem to get my screws to countersink well. Will it be ok if they stick up a bit given that I will be applying an 1/8″ of thinset. Your help is appreciated! Thanks!
July 8th, 2008 at 2:21 pm
I’m looking into doing this project in my kitchen…we currently have somewhat new formica countertops with a 2.5″ wood trim that was built to coordinate with the cabinets. Is it possible to reuse this wood trim so not to have to deal with the edging/nosing. if so what is the best way to salvage it? Also do we need to tear up the existing formica covered top and put new plywood down???
Ben Erickson Says:July 9th, 2008 at 11:03 am
Hi Justin,
As long as you screw the cement backerboard down well to the plywood, adhesive shouldn’t be necessary. While countersinking the screws would be better, as long as you have a good coating of thinset over them, it shouldn’t be a problem.
July 15th, 2008 at 11:56 pm
I just installed a section of a granite tile countertop. I was not happy with the thin set, it was very difficult to get it even. As a result, now that the countertop is “set” my wife notices that some of the tiles are uneven. I still have another countertop to do and was looking for a better quality thinset, one that is easy to work with that will result in even tiles throughout. Do you have any suggestions?
July 21st, 2008 at 5:42 pm
isn’t there some way to mix epoxy and particles of tile or some way to hide the grout lines better? I thought I had heard this practice being used somewhere. I may have been dreaming lol. I know they make a new thin granite countertop, almost a veneer if you will, that isn’t what I am referring to.
July 23rd, 2008 at 5:10 pm
As long as you seal the grout you should be fine. Granite tiles vary in price but it is about 5 bucks per 12×12 tile. You will need a Diamond tipped wet saw blade (this typically comes with the wet saw, that is if you purchase one, ranging from 88 bucks to 300 at Lowes or Home Depot) the backerboard is about 10 bucsk per 4ft x 8ft and comes in 1/4 inch or 1/2 inch. grout is about 10 bucks per bag, adhesive is about 13 bucks per bucket (if you are an amature, go with the premixed adhesive), there are specific screws that work very well with backerboard (about 3 bucks), but you will need the bit for it. Be sure to follow the recommended curing time for the adhesive, grout and sealent. Also be sure to buy more tiles (about 10% more) to account for any mistakes in cutting, but you will also have trouble returning them for the full price as you most likely will have to special order them.
July 31st, 2008 at 3:35 pm
Can granite tiles be used with under counter sinck mount? I really do not want a top mount sink.
August 6th, 2008 at 9:48 pm
Is there any way to install a new countertop (granite tiles or porcelain tiles) on top of the existing formica?
August 22nd, 2008 at 8:19 pm
Janelle,
You can install tile and possibly granite tiles over top of the existing formica as long as the countertop is in perfect condition. Even if it is not in perfect condition, if it is repairable, you may still be able to do it. There are many do it yourself references to this online if you search for them. I have done this in the past and I am getting ready to once again take on the project in my new home.
August 23rd, 2008 at 11:39 am
I have installed granite tiles and love the result except for one thing. The compound we used to seal around the sink is causing a stain all around the edge of the sink. We used a plumbers putty and I think the oil is causing the problem. We did seal the tile prior to putting the sink in. Help!
September 4th, 2008 at 8:28 am
How do tou cut the tiles around the sink. It’s a round cut and I have a side grinder. Is this the way to do it?
Do you recommend foam rather than plumbers putty to seal around the flush sink?
Would the weight of a full sink break the granite tiles?
September 6th, 2008 at 5:10 pm
I’d like to ask a question. I have the granite slab cut out…ready for the sink and facuet. I was told that I need angle lines because my sink is heavy (I have a black cast iron, how do I measure for the angle lines?) Once I get the angle lines, do I have to use the backer board for the granite slab…just like you did with the titles.?
September 7th, 2008 at 7:00 pm
I am thinking to install a new granite tile countertop but the existing one is formica.Can I take the formica off and lay the tiles on or do I need to screw plywood on the existing one? And also,if not do I need to use cement backer board before laying the tiles?I really appreciate your help.
September 12th, 2008 at 6:06 am
I am in the process of installing granite tiles on an island countertop (to be used only for eating and food prep. Do I have to use a concrete backerboard besides the plywood?
Ben Erickson Says:September 15th, 2008 at 9:38 am
Yes. The purpose of the cement backerboard is to keep the tiles from cracking and pulling loose due to movement in the wood.
September 22nd, 2008 at 4:43 pm
Can you tell me exactly which kind of pads do I need to polish the sides of the granite tile? Should I buy a whole set or can I just buy specific ones?
October 1st, 2008 at 1:22 pm
I seem to have problems with the surface of the tile after applying an initial coat of sealer “Stone Glamor”. The surface now feels gritty and need to remove the gritty feel before applying the 2nd coat. ANY remedies?? Thanks Rob
October 24th, 2008 at 1:37 pm
I have a formica counter top in perfect condition. Can I lay granite tiles directly on top of formica. If not, can cement board go on top of formica and then lay tiles.
October 28th, 2008 at 12:57 pm
I’m installing granite tile and plan to use a matching granite chair rail. Since this piece will be considerably heavier than the piece you used for the edge, I am worried about it staying in place while the thin set cures. Any tips?
October 29th, 2008 at 4:28 pm
As I started popping off the old 12×12 ceramic tiles on my kitchen counter I noticed that they were applied directly to the formica, which was in good if not perfect condition. Can the same be done with granite tiles or do I need backer board?
October 30th, 2008 at 11:39 am
Yes, I have the same question as Laura B. It would cut out alot of work if I can place the tiles directly onto the existing solid-surface countertops, will this affect the results negatively?
October 30th, 2008 at 5:39 pm
Same question as A. Moore and Laura B. We have a nice flat surface to start from already. What would need to be changed?
thank you.
November 1st, 2008 at 5:59 pm
Can I safely butt ceramic tiles the way you did granite ?
November 3rd, 2008 at 8:56 pm
Same question as everyone above regarding putting tiles directly over formica instead of putting the cement backer board first? Screwing down the backer board into formica could expose the underlying particle board to moisture which would be counter productive. Has anyone tried just sanding the top of the formica counter tops and than laying the granite tiles right over it? I, and several of the above posters, would appreciate a response. Thanks.
November 5th, 2008 at 10:37 pm
Yes you can tile over Formica. Use the TAVY Thin skin system. I used it on Formica and over an existing tile floor. See thus video
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wCopXfZYzKA
Also check out here http://www.tavytools.com/
November 14th, 2008 at 4:59 pm
I currently have a concrete countertop which I dont like and would like to granite tile over it. Do I need to use plywood/cement board ? or can I tile right over it? If so, how do I prepare the surface?
Thanks
November 16th, 2008 at 7:56 am
I recently did my own Granite tile counter tops and back splash, including the adjoining breakfast bar. We were fortunate to find matching Granite bull nose pieces at the same store as the tile – Floors Decor (a national chain) and although the bull nose was 3 – 4 times the tile costs, it made for a very impressive finished product. Our costs to complete this was less than a quarter of the bids we got for solid granite (which did not include back splash) and was within a few $100 of doing the lamiate counter tops from chain Home improvement store. I noticed the other day that some of the Lowes stores now carry the bull nose granite too.
November 28th, 2008 at 7:53 pm
can anyone offer up advice to people having probs with their projects? if so,this may not be a great idea…there are some incorrect suggestions being offered..my advice is to get more info online before undertaking any costly project..have fun with all your home projects
December 8th, 2008 at 8:01 pm
We cut a hole in the wall to form a pass through between the kitchen and dining room. We plan to install a granite top on the pass through to create a kitchen bar with a slight (2″) overhang into the dining room. The slab is 25″ x 72″. I would like to get some coaching on how to best support the install on what is now only about a 5″ wide surface. Should I bolt a 3/4 piece of plywood to the surface to support granite. Should I use “L” brackets to support the granite. Will I need legs to support the grainte. Comments on the best way to install this would be appreciated.
December 13th, 2008 at 11:20 pm
didn’t find answer regard granite tile over formica. is a a backerboard necessary and must it be thinset over the formica or just screw down?
December 30th, 2008 at 11:30 am
I have read several commits on adding tile to an existing counter top which is something I have been considering doing. But there seem not to be much info if this is a method of doing it and what steps to take for the job….any thoughts on this
January 1st, 2009 at 8:36 am
When we cut the tiles around the sink: We just inner corner cut them. Even though the sink shows rounded corners it fits in easily. We installed a “granite” type sink that is self rimming. It covers it by plenty and you would never know. Funny I saw we cut. We used painters tape and a T Square to mark the cuts. We bought the tiles at Lowes. They make all the cuts for you. I do not recommend bringing you front facing 2″ pieces in on the same day. While they would do it that is mean to ask that much and they may get sloppy after that long. So all we had to do was rent a stone polisher.
January 1st, 2009 at 8:38 am
My back splash idea for the kitchen made my whole project. I bought black granite tiles. They sell black granite side splashes for the bathroom sinks. It is 3″ X 20″X 3/4. They will cut this too. Now my kitchen counter has that more solid granite feel I wanted. And I am so glad I came up with the idea. I love it.
January 8th, 2009 at 1:16 pm
This countertop looks great. How much would it cost to complete this project with approximately 35 sq ft?
January 10th, 2009 at 12:17 am
Also want to know if I have to remove my perfectly flat and great condition formica. Can I just sand it to rough it up for the tile adhesive?? I really want to know too!!
January 10th, 2009 at 10:13 am
I am installing a granite tile countertop. Can I use ceramic tile adhesive for granite as well? I have left overs from my floor job.
January 10th, 2009 at 9:09 pm
I would like to lay a granite tile countertop. Can I lay the cement backer board directly onto the existing formica then lay the tile. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
January 14th, 2009 at 9:42 pm
I just installed granite tiles 12×12 on a kithen counter top. They got moved around before they were set. Is there a way to take them off without breaking them, so I can re set them?
January 15th, 2009 at 4:01 am
That TAVY stuff looks awesome….the paper is a little pricy at $52.42 a roll at lowes……but it doesn’t say how much is on a roll. Anyone know?
January 23rd, 2009 at 11:42 am
Hi, I have the same question that most people have posted here but did not see a answer. I have a laminate counter top in excellent shape and I would like to put granite tiles, not ceramic. I did see the demo on youtube that was posted on this site, but it was for ceramics. Can I simply buy cement backer board and screw it on my entire counter top and then install the granite tiles or am I’m missing a step? Please advise. Thank you in advance!!!
January 24th, 2009 at 5:58 pm
I noticed that you show doing the tile edging by hand. To get nice looking tile edges can be the most difficult part of the job. A friend of mine has just started a company that provides custom edged tiles you can order over the internet. They have created an online ordering system in which you select your kitchen counter arrangement, enter the dimensions, and it will tell you how much tile you’ll need and how much edging is needed. They just started this month and the web site just went online. It is at: http://www.easygranitetile.com/
You can even use the calculator just to see how much granite tile it would take for your counters. You don’t need to place an order.
January 25th, 2009 at 10:18 am
Hi! I saw a segment on a DIY network show about installing granite tiles over formica, I bet you can look it up on their website archives for instructions.
January 25th, 2009 at 3:21 pm
with granite tile on counter top tell me steps 4 epoxie grout
Ben Erickson Says:January 26th, 2009 at 10:14 am
Regarding covering a plastic laminate countertop with tile. Screw cement backer board to the countertop before installing the tile as above.
January 26th, 2009 at 10:48 pm
Can I install the cement board directly on top of my existing laminate countertop and then finish it with granite tile?
Ben Erickson Says:January 27th, 2009 at 8:21 am
Dawn,
I see no reason why you can’t screw cement backer board directly to an old plastic laminate countertop. Just be sure the backer board is attached well to the old countertop. In addition to screwing it down, a bead of construction adhesive between the cement board and old countertop wouldn’t hurt.
January 27th, 2009 at 11:10 pm
Ok so after doing some extensive research from tile experts, asking granite experts, and flooring experts, I’m going to answer most of the recurrent questions.
To all the people that have existing counter tops and want to use them as a base for their project. . . The point of tearing it off of your existing cabinets is to be sure and double sure that your project is going to be successful. Some cabinets in bad condition cannot support a heavier countertop such as granite. Also, weak or loose spots in your fornica joints are nightmares. Check the integrity of your countertops joints, your cabinets joints etc before considering putting new on top of old. If everything seems good and sturdy, follow through by screwing the backer to the fornica.
To all the people that want to skip the backer. . . You can, but be careful. The reason you want the backer is because it is specifically made to bond to the thinset. Fornica is a very smooth surface and doesn’t bond as well as the backer. If you want the job done right and you want it to last, use the cement backer. It’s an extra 10-30 bucks and a little extra work cutting, but it’s worth it. Water is going to get in the grout. Period. If water gets to that thinset and starts eating away at it on top of fornica, the integrity of the thinset is compromised, and the last thing you want is for trim pieces around the sink to be falling off. . . in short, no cement backer = tiles will become undone from the counter over time. Sanding it down may help, but it won’t be as good.
As far as camouflaging the grout lines in the tile go, I got a few different perspectives. Home Depot guy said the closest thing that he could think of was color-matching the grout color to the granite. IE Coffee brown granite to coffee brown grout. One tile expert guy (entrepreneur) said that one could possibly add color flakes or other soft additives to the grout to help, but he wouldn’t advise it because it’s not exactly easy to find the right combination of colors. The end result would be tacky if it weren’t a perfect match. He said to void adding hard things to the grout also (broken glass, pebbles, stone pieces etc.) because of the potential for jagged surfaces and compromising the integrity of the grout. Basically, over time the grout will wear down, but whatever you add will stay there. Nobody had anything to say about epoxies besides the potential mess and difficulty of clean-up.
I hope this helps everybody.
Ben Erickson Says:January 29th, 2009 at 8:40 am
Terry,
Thanks for all your hard work on coming up with answers to questions about tiling countertops. Nice post!
January 30th, 2009 at 8:32 pm
I just installed granite tile countertop. I was told to seal them first before I grout. The sealer just kind of “seperated”. On the places were we beveled the edges it went right in. Am I using the wrong sealer?
February 2nd, 2009 at 10:34 am
My wife wants granite counter tops on our kitchen that I’m remodeling. I’ve decided to install the 12″ X 12″ tiles myself but I’d like to use something other than granite, wood or metal for the edging. Is there anywhere you can buy a plastic or fiberglass edging in colors that’s easy to cut that would really look nice?
February 5th, 2009 at 3:57 pm
We are planning on tiling our counters in black granite. We plan on using an epoxy grout, and doing it right overtop our existing counters (which are painted formica). Would that work? Or do you recommend doing the backboard still? I read your answers to the others questions about this, but it seemed like the main issue was whether the surface was rough enough to stick. Trust me, the painted surface is fairly rough. Thanks!
February 6th, 2009 at 10:42 am
I read some places that say granite tile does need to be sealed and some that say granite tile is already sealed. Do I need to seal my new granite tile kitchen countertops?
Should the grout be sealed? If so, what is the best sealer and how do you apply it?
Thanks.
February 8th, 2009 at 4:42 am
I HAVE A 1200 SQ FOOT CONDO. I WOULD LIKE TO REDO MASTER BATH ANDALREADY STARTED KITCHEN WITH LAMINATE FLOORING AND PAINTED CABINETS AND HARDWARE. I EVENTUALLY WILL GET NEW APPLIANCES LAST AS MINE ARE FAIRLY NEW. I AM ON A BUDGET AND WANT TO FINISH MY FIRST FLOOR DINING AND LIVING ROOM WITH LAMINATE FLOORING AND IN MAIN BATH NEW VANITY AND SINK BUT MOST IMPORTANT MARBLE OR GRANITE FLOORING. ALSO MARBLE OR GRANITE COUNTERTOP IN KITCHEN,POSSIBLY IN MASTER AND 1/2 BATH ALL UNIFORM. I WANT TO DO IN PIECES DUE TO COST I AM ON A VERY SMALL BUDGET, I DON’T WANT TO PRICE MYSELF OUT OF MY NEIGHBORHOOD ALSO. I WAS THINKING OF WHITE MARBLE WITH BLACK VEINING. IF I BUY FOR ALL COUNTERTOPS WHICH NONE OF OUR HUGE AND THEN HAVE A CONTRATOR INSTALL ONCE I HAVE ALL THE MATERIALS. HOW CAN I FIND THE MOST INEXPENSIVE, FOR MATERIALS I CURRENTLY HAVE 2,000, WHICH I WISH TO BUY ALL LAMINATE FLOORING. I DID MY KITCHEN WHICH IS 100X100 FOR 100.00 OR SO FOR LAMINATE ONLY. HOW CAN I GET WHAT I WANT FOR JUST MATERIALS, LAMINATE AND GRANITE OR MARBLE. I THINK IT WILL BE NICE TO ALL BE UNIFORM IN ALL ROOMS. WHERE IS THE BEST PLACE TO SHOP FOR REMNIANTS OR THE CHEAPEST TO MAKE MY DREAM HAPPEN.MY LAM. FL IN KITCHEN NEEDS TO BE MATCHED FROM HOME DEPOT SO I MAY HAVE TO GO THERE OR MANU. ANY IDEAS? THANKS
February 8th, 2009 at 4:48 am
PLEASE HELP ME I WOULD LIKE TO FINISH KITCHEN AND HOME. I CURRENTLY HAVE A LIGHT LAMINATE IN KITCHEN AND WANT IN MASTER BEDROOM AND DINING AND LIVING ROOM ABOUT 4-500 SQ FT. AND MARBLE OR GRANITE IN TILES FOR COST IN KITCHEN AND 1 AND 1/2 BATH. I WOULD LIKE TO BUY AND HAVE INSTALLED AFTER. I NEED IDEAS FOR WHERE I CAN GET A FABULOUS DEAL WITH A 2000-2500 FOR JUST MATERIALS. TOTAL SQ FT OF KITHEN IS 100 SQ FT BUT LIMITED COUNTER AND IN SM BATH JUST SINK WITH SMALL FLOOR AND COUNTER MAX 20SQ FT AND MAIN BATH PROB 75 SQ FT INC VANITY. I NEED UNUSUAL PLACES TO LOOK FOR REMINANTS OR INEXPENSIVE GRANITE/MARBLE TILES.PLEASE HELP. THANK YOU LISA
February 8th, 2009 at 6:53 am
I HAVE TALL CHAIRS THAT THE BACKS HIT THE WALL AND LEAVE A MARK ON THEM, CAN I USE THE 12X12 GRANITE TILES TO MAKE A CHAIR RAIL ON THE WALL ABOUT 4 FT LONG TO PREVENT THIS FROM HAPPENING? I HAVE BLACK GRANITE COUNTER TOPS.
February 21st, 2009 at 3:59 pm
Lisa – I don’t know where you live, but Expo Design Centers and The Great Indoors are closing stores in some areas. You might find what you need there. I’d stay away from light marble for a kitchen counter. Marble stains easier than granite. You could get coffee or wine stains pretty easily.
February 25th, 2009 at 8:12 pm
Can two 1ft (30cm) tiles cover the depth of a typical counter top without adding in a small filler piece?
February 26th, 2009 at 5:45 am
I forgot to use the cement board when installing my granite tile. What will have to my granite tile now?
Ben Erickson Says:February 26th, 2009 at 8:32 am
If you put tile directly on a plywood substrate without installing cement backer board first, it may hold up okay, or the tiles could come loose over time. I would just wait and see rather than ripping it all out.
Ben Erickson Says:February 26th, 2009 at 8:38 am
Most countertops are 25″ deep (to the wall), which would require a bit more than two tiles.
March 9th, 2009 at 9:13 am
What is the best way to install marble tile on an existing laminate counter top?
Can I use the one I have or should I change it?
Ben Erickson Says:March 10th, 2009 at 7:27 am
Hi Martin,
I would either screw cement backer board to your plastic laminate and tile on top of that, or remove them and install plywood topped by backer board. If they are molded laminate tops with a rounded front edge and attached backsplash, you may be better off removing them.
March 10th, 2009 at 7:54 am
Thank you Ben will let you know how it comes out.
If I run into problems I will have to invite you to help me out.
March 10th, 2009 at 1:51 pm
You have a lot of good comments on this article. I have a couple of additional questions. I recently purchased a property with a partially DIY renovated kitchen. The person obviousy didn’t plan the project well. They installed the tile as you did, but rather than plan an overhang for the edge tile, the tile just ends. I don’t know what to do for the edge now. I can see the edge of the tile and below that is the backer board covered with what appears to be mesh drywall joint tape and some sort of adhesive. Any ideas?
In addition to the edge issue, the sink is held down with what looks like liquid nails. It is pretty thick on the underside with a 2×4 frame around the sink perimiter and plywood and backer board on top of that. Any idea what I can do to install sink clips or instead of them? I hate to rip all this out! Thanks in advance for answers!
March 28th, 2009 at 10:10 pm
For those of you who don’t want to rip out your formica countertop, just do it and put down decent plywood and backerboard. It’s not that the thinset won’t stick, it’s that it won’t stick nearly as long. Formica is applied with glue which lets go after time which creates air pockets. You do not want that happening under your countertop you worked so hard installilng. In the photo we doubled up the plywood so we’d have a larger edging. Also we did another one where we used oak for the edging. We used a router and put a fancy design on it. then we installed the edging, staind (3coats) laquer (2coats). All you people are spending precious time and money on these jobs. Do them right the first time, especially if you’re doing it yourself. The contractor you hire to fix your mistakes will charge you more than it would have cost to have him do it right the first time. Also, Home Depot now sells granite tiles that are 18X32 and come with a polished edge. All you have to do is cut and lay.
March 31st, 2009 at 2:40 pm
I am installing 2ft x 2ft granite tile for kitchen countertop. For the base I used 1/2″ particle board (liquid nails to attach to cabinets) w/ thinset and then 1/2″ durock screwed to the particle board. I did this as the pre-fab prescott edging did not allow for 3/4″ and 3/4″ without showing wood at the bottom. Will I be ok witheparticle board and size that I used?
April 4th, 2009 at 2:36 pm
JUST NEED TO KNOW IS THERE ANOTHER WAY TO POLISH THE EDGE OF THE TILES WITHOUT RENTING A GRINDER .
April 10th, 2009 at 8:43 am
Have been manufacturing an already made granite countertop out of tile for almost 9 years now. Do not sell on web yet but would like some input from DIY folks. It is extremely strong, installs directly to cabinets, relatively light weight (one man can easily handle a 4 ft blank ) and can be made into lengths from 12 inches to 8 ft. as one piece. I have been shipping to a few customers for resale for many years and have no shipping issues. Product is extremely beautiful, uses non staining,non porous resin instead of grout and is very flat. You can set down a single run up to 8 ft. long and have it installed in minutes! Tell me what you think!
April 11th, 2009 at 6:22 am
I have used Schluter’s Ditra as the underlayment over sub-flooring instead of concrete backer board. While the cost is at least twice that of backer board, it comes in a roll, can be cut with scissors, goes over thinset and tile can be laid on it immediately. I’ve also used it on tub decks.
Ben Erickson Says:April 11th, 2009 at 7:07 am
Hi Bambi,
You can learn more about Schluter-Ditra underlayment and find a link to their website at Tile Underlayment Membrane.
April 11th, 2009 at 8:29 pm
I was just wondering what color the tile is that was installed in the pictures, that is exactly what I want but I can’t seem to find it anywhere. Please help!!
April 22nd, 2009 at 10:10 am
I am having trouble finding a stone polisher to rent. Any recommendations?
May 2nd, 2009 at 5:09 pm
Thanks for your informative answers. I have faux marble counter top in my bathroom that I’d like to tile over with granite or ceramic tiles. What can you recommend for this process. Will I need to use a concrete sub surface? Thank you.
May 22nd, 2009 at 11:04 pm
Man oh man. First thing you didn’t thinset the durock down on the plywood, or tape the seems. That granite will break up within months wast of money and time. You have to back buter each tile with thinset then install with a trowl no smaller then a 1/4 x 3/8, I would use a 1/2 trowl. I have been installing stone for 5 of the largest tile stores for 23 years. Your show is a joke. When home owners try to install stone or tile, when they mess up they call the experts to fix a job that cost even more money then what it would of cost in the first place. Plus you don’t even have the proper tools to be installing. I hope you stop leading people in the wrong direction.
May 26th, 2009 at 3:06 pm
granite tiles are 3/8″ thick,unsanded grout for 1/8″spaces or flush
May 31st, 2009 at 9:03 am
We had our tile guy install granite tile countertops.
He did everything you suggested here. But we continually feel granite coming up on our tiles. I was told that when you seal the granite it would seal the grout? Lady in Kitchens at Home Depot says it’s the grout coming up. and we did not put special grout sealer on the grout because they told me with the spray granite sealer it would do it all? Can you help. I have the tile guy coming this week to look at my tile. What kind of sealer would you recommend for grout on granite. Is it to late to seal it.
We have a spray sealer by Dupont we used in Shower that we just had done, what do you recommend? Please help!!!
June 11th, 2009 at 9:18 am
This ia a cheaper option. The only down side is the fact that you have grout lines which can get dirty and may be frustrating to clean
June 18th, 2009 at 5:53 pm
I’m doing our kitchen in granite and is it ok to lay over formica if we rough it up? Also we have oak trim on the edges. What should I do with that. Does it have to come off or can we put the granite over it for the sides?
June 18th, 2009 at 6:32 pm
I’m interested in replacing formica top with granite tiles. One question that I have is what do you do to support the granite tiles that will cantilever 10″ beyond the countertop framework? This is for breakfast bar which is about 7′ long. Thanks.
Ben Erickson Says:June 19th, 2009 at 8:09 am
Hi Joe,
Since any flexing of the top could cause the tile to crack or pop loose, you would need to make sure the substrate for the countertop was thick enough and well supported to prevent it. This could include using two layers of 3/4″ plywood glued together, and/or wood or steel support below the countertop.
June 24th, 2009 at 10:51 pm
Hi,
Thank you for all the good info! I am planning on doing my countertops however I don’t want to do the backsplash all the way up to the cabinets. Can I make a normal size backing to the the countertops like the ones you see on formica or laminate countertops?
Ben Erickson Says:June 25th, 2009 at 8:20 am
Hi Zahil,
Yes, you can make a smaller backspash on the wall behind your countertop from either granite tile or regular tile. You can attach the tile directly to the existing drywall, or build it out with cement backer board if you want it to have more depth. To find out more about installing a tile backsplash read our Ceramic Tile Backsplash Project article or watch the video on How to Install a Ceramic Tile Backsplash
June 27th, 2009 at 2:21 am
I am reusing a dresser vanity for my bathroom. I want to use granite tile for the top, yet I want it ressesed into the top of the wood. I thought I could cut the existing top and place the backerboard under this so I could give the piece a very cool wood border. The problem is the dresser is rounded and I would have to cut the tile accordingly. I am nervous about rounding edges of granite tile and having it fit nicely around the inner edge of the counter. My other option is to just varnish(spar) the wood and place the sinks on the wood. I am not sure how the wood alone will hold. Help! I need your expert advice.
July 4th, 2009 at 4:56 am
To Ben from May 22nd, 2009 at 11:04 pm. The bad jobs you speak of happen because many people just are not capable of doing quality work. As the son of a 55 year cabinet and tile professional who also knows how to do this stuff you are incorrect in your assumptions here about the instructions. I’ve seen many jobs done both ways and when done well neither have issues unless plywood was not leveled and fastened properly. There are so many ways a novice can screw this stuff up and simply reading many of the questions or comments here by them show that. One guy blames the thinset for his uneven tiles, that’s funny, try blaming yourself for not leveling them properly when attaching the tile. This stuff is not fool proof people, some of us have a capability of working with our hands and understanding how and having a feeling for how to do these things, some do not. If your tile/granite is cracking it’s because the top is not stable enough and that can happen for a number of reasons and if your tile is not level then it’s because you didn’t level it well.
July 7th, 2009 at 10:23 am
I would like to install granite tile counter on a small peninsula but want ROUNDED CORNERS as we have small children and fear the hard sharpness of a square corner. How would you suggest I do that?
July 7th, 2009 at 4:39 pm
Between where the stove is, how do you put a skirt there without closing in the gap too narrow for the stove to fit back in. Do you normaly put skirt tiles there or do you just leave it without and open?….
Ben Erickson Says:July 8th, 2009 at 7:52 am
Hi Robin,
If you install a wood edge on the countertop, you could miter and round the corner, then cut the granite top tile to match.
July 14th, 2009 at 7:44 am
I want to put a granite countertop on a concrete block base outside with a 14 inch overhang. Do I use plywood substrate? How do I keep the plywood from rotting in the wet weather?
July 16th, 2009 at 4:56 pm
In your picture – cutting tile – using a table-saw style wet saw (blade underneath), it appears that the tile is being cut polished side up. Is there a correct side to mark and have up to prevent damage to the polished surface?
July 20th, 2009 at 1:30 pm
I’ve just finished installing granite tile countertops in my kitchen…
My question is what exactly do i need to use to clean the graninte countertops..? everything that i’ve tried doesnt seem to work… the granite just accumalates powder and dust after a couple of days.
any help would be greatly appreciated.
thanks,
Mack
August 3rd, 2009 at 10:03 am
I have formica countertops in my kitchen. They are new but have the sharp-cut edges. What can I do to cover this? I’m trying to eliminate the sharp edges. What is the best way to clean counter tops? I’ve noticed mine feel rough and I’m always wiping them off thinking they have something on them. Thank you.
Ben Erickson Says:August 4th, 2009 at 9:25 am
Hi Barbara,
You can use a file, sandpaper (used with a sanding block), or a special router bit to take the sharp edge off of your plastic laminate countertop. Just be sure not to take too much, do it evenly along the whole edge, and be careful not to scratch the surface of the laminate.
Plastic laminate can be cleaned with a sponge and a mild detergent. To remove stubborn stains, try sprinkling a little baking soda on the sponge and rubbing it with that (not too much to keep from dulling the finish). For stubborn stains, you can use the solvent acetone (it’s highly flammable, so extinguish open flames and provide plenty of ventilation) as a cleaner and to remove any contact cement residue. Bleach can be used in moderation, but don’t leave it on long and rinse after using to prevent discoloration. Many other common household cleaners and glass cleaners (such as Formula 409 and Windex) can be used as well. Avoid using abrasive cleaners like Comet, which can dull the shine.
Laminates come in different textures, from glass to matte, so the roughness you feel is probably the texture it came with.
Ben Erickson Says:August 4th, 2009 at 11:16 am
Hi Mack,
You may need to seal your granite countertops.
Find out more in our Granite Countertops video.
Ben Erickson Says:August 4th, 2009 at 12:00 pm
Hi Jay,
When using a tablesaw style wet saw with the blade underneath, you should cut it as pictured with the finished side up, since any chipping would occur on the back (bottom) of the tile.
August 14th, 2009 at 4:36 am
The problem with this method is that the grout can get dirty very easily.
Slightly off topic, but i’d strongly suggest a nice premium quality Granite as an alternative.
August 20th, 2009 at 9:12 am
Help,my son installed Absolute Black granite tile on his counterop and now I see what lots like water marks. My daughter grouted for him and told him to keep it wet for two days. How do I get this water marks off before sealing?
August 26th, 2009 at 4:09 pm
What is the best way to attach crown moulding bull nose to the edge of the kichen counter tops
September 3rd, 2009 at 11:27 pm
How do you cut the plug holes in the granite backsplash?
September 29th, 2009 at 5:25 pm
Layed the granite tiles on Sunday. On Monday noticed that several of the tiles are very dark. Is this moisture in the tiles. All the others are pretty good. On this section, we had opened a new tub of the thinset. Could it just be that there was more moisture in that tub? Will this dry and go away or do I have a real problem? I used the exact same stuff for the whole project. Very frustrated.
Ben Erickson Says:September 30th, 2009 at 10:24 am
Hi Roxanne,
If the granite tiles were all the same color before you laid them, it’s probably moisture from the thin-set and should go away after a few days or so.
October 3rd, 2009 at 7:10 am
Ben,
Thank you. They are getting lighter. One more question, when I grout…should I seal first….or grout and then seal after? I have heard both. Thanks in advance.
Ben Erickson Says:October 5th, 2009 at 9:17 am
Roxanne,
Unless you’re using a special stainproof grout, you should grout first, allow the grout to dry thoroughly, then apply sealer to the grout.
October 13th, 2009 at 2:19 pm
I am preparing to put granite tile on my counter top. I have a peninsula counter which is 24″ wide. With backer board applied to the edges plus nose tile and grout it becomes about 25″ wide. Question is two tile wide is only 24″ how do I address the remaining 1″? Thanks for your help.
Ben Erickson Says:October 14th, 2009 at 8:54 am
Hi Mike,
You could add a 1″ wide mosaic strip down the middle of the top, or trim half an inch off each side of the existing countertop before attaching the backer board. You may also be able to find wider tiles and cut them down to the size you need.
October 15th, 2009 at 7:17 am
Danny, thanks for your help. If I cut the countertop back 1/2″ on each side I won’t have any overhang on the edge. Will this look odd? Rather than running a 1″ strip of mosaic could I run a 1″ strip of same tile down the center instead of one side? Thanks
Ben Erickson Says:October 15th, 2009 at 8:04 am
Hi Mike,
If you cut the countertop back on each side, you’ll still have an overhang from the thickness of the cement backer board plus the granite tile (1/2″ + 1/4″ = 3/4″ approximately).
Ben