Expert Advice on Home Improvement TV Host of Emmy®-Nominated Today's Homeowner® and home expert for The Weather ChannelKitchens and Baths Published 05/30/2008 by Jared Libby
While granite is a popular choice for kitchen countertops, the high cost of materials and installation can put a big dent in your home improvement budget. A less expensive alternative to a pricey granite slab is to use 12”x12” granite tiles instead. Not only do granite tiles make an attractive and durable countertop, they’re easy to apply and weigh much less than a solid granite top, making it a perfect DIY project.
Begin by removing the existing countertops, then check to be sure the cabinets are level—both left to right and front to back.
Cut a piece of ¾” plywood to serve as the base for the top, making sure to allow for the desired overhang. For a thicker look, double the plywood, or glue and screw a strip of wood along the outer edge of the top. With the plywood in position, measure from the cabinet to the edge of the plywood.
Transfer this measurement to the top of the substrate, adding half the thickness of the cabinet frame, and mark the location for the screws.
Drill holes and screw the plywood to the top of the cabinets.
As an alternative, the plywood substrate can be screwed from underneath to brackets or a ledger strip located inside the cabinets.
Once the plywood substrate has been screwed down, cover it with ½” cement backer board. Cut the backer board to size by scoring it with a carbide tipped scoring tool and breaking it much as you would drywall. While cement board can also be cut using a circular saw, it makes for a very dusty job, so work outside and be sure to wear a respirator and safety glasses.
Screw the cement board to the plywood, being sure to countersink the screws below the surface.
Cut 2” strips of cement board and attach them to the edges of the substrate flush with the top.
Cut the hole for the sink using a jigsaw. Most new sinks provide a template. Measure carefully to be sure the hole is centered over the base cabinet.
Fitting the substrate around the stove will vary depending on the type of cooking surface you have. A freestanding stove requires no substrate while a drop-in type will need backing between the stove and wall.
Polish any exposed tile edges before installation using a polisher specifically designed for stone.
A stone polisher uses a series of coarse to fine pads. Begin with a coarse pad in the 50-150 grit range and work up to 3000-5000 grit.
Rough or sharp edges can also be rounded using the polisher. Both wet and dry polishers are best used outside, as the process can be messy.
Use a notched trowel to spread thin-set mortar on the cement board substrate.
Lay full tiles on the outer edge first, butting them together. Remember to overhang the tiles to allow for the edging.
While granite tiles average ¼” thick, individual tiles can vary. To compensate for thinner tiles, use a thicker bed of mortar. Check with a level as you go to be sure all the tiles are the same height.
Once the full tiles have been laid, use a tile saw to cut pieces to fit along the wall.
Both tile saws and polishers can be rented at tool rental centers.
Since it may be hard to see marks on granite, a strip of masking tape can be applied to the tile to make them easier to see.
When the top is complete, apply thin-set to the side of the cement board substrate and position the edge tiles. For a uniform look, align the joints with the top. Use tape to hold the edge tiles until the mortar has dried.
To form a backsplash, apply thin-set to the drywall and press the tiles in place.
Even though the tiles are butted together, the narrow seams need to be filled with unsanded grout. Use a rubber padded grout float to force the grout into the seams then wipe off the excess with a damp sponge.
Once the grout has dried thoroughly, apply a high quality sealer to the seams to prevent stains.
Install the sink, faucet, and appliances to complete the job.
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June 1st, 2008 at 7:51 am
This counter looks great. Are there problems with the grout joints getting wet? How much would it cost to put this together?
June 7th, 2008 at 7:56 am
How do I prepare the surface to install 2 large pieces of granite on an outside countertop?
July 7th, 2008 at 8:31 pm
Hi, I am in the process of installing a granite tile counter top and forgot to apply any adhesive to the underneath side of the backerboard. Is this a huge problem? Also, I can not seem to get my screws to countersink well. Will it be ok if they stick up a bit given that I will be applying an 1/8″ of thinset. Your help is appreciated! Thanks!
July 8th, 2008 at 2:21 pm
I’m looking into doing this project in my kitchen…we currently have somewhat new formica countertops with a 2.5″ wood trim that was built to coordinate with the cabinets. Is it possible to reuse this wood trim so not to have to deal with the edging/nosing. if so what is the best way to salvage it? Also do we need to tear up the existing formica covered top and put new plywood down???
Ben Erickson Says:July 9th, 2008 at 11:03 am
Hi Justin,
As long as you screw the cement backerboard down well to the plywood, adhesive shouldn’t be necessary. While countersinking the screws would be better, as long as you have a good coating of thinset over them, it shouldn’t be a problem.
July 15th, 2008 at 11:56 pm
I just installed a section of a granite tile countertop. I was not happy with the thin set, it was very difficult to get it even. As a result, now that the countertop is “set” my wife notices that some of the tiles are uneven. I still have another countertop to do and was looking for a better quality thinset, one that is easy to work with that will result in even tiles throughout. Do you have any suggestions?
July 21st, 2008 at 5:42 pm
isn’t there some way to mix epoxy and particles of tile or some way to hide the grout lines better? I thought I had heard this practice being used somewhere. I may have been dreaming lol. I know they make a new thin granite countertop, almost a veneer if you will, that isn’t what I am referring to.
July 23rd, 2008 at 5:10 pm
As long as you seal the grout you should be fine. Granite tiles vary in price but it is about 5 bucks per 12×12 tile. You will need a Diamond tipped wet saw blade (this typically comes with the wet saw, that is if you purchase one, ranging from 88 bucks to 300 at Lowes or Home Depot) the backerboard is about 10 bucsk per 4ft x 8ft and comes in 1/4 inch or 1/2 inch. grout is about 10 bucks per bag, adhesive is about 13 bucks per bucket (if you are an amature, go with the premixed adhesive), there are specific screws that work very well with backerboard (about 3 bucks), but you will need the bit for it. Be sure to follow the recommended curing time for the adhesive, grout and sealent. Also be sure to buy more tiles (about 10% more) to account for any mistakes in cutting, but you will also have trouble returning them for the full price as you most likely will have to special order them.
July 31st, 2008 at 3:35 pm
Can granite tiles be used with under counter sinck mount? I really do not want a top mount sink.
August 6th, 2008 at 9:48 pm
Is there any way to install a new countertop (granite tiles or porcelain tiles) on top of the existing formica?
August 22nd, 2008 at 8:19 pm
Janelle,
You can install tile and possibly granite tiles over top of the existing formica as long as the countertop is in perfect condition. Even if it is not in perfect condition, if it is repairable, you may still be able to do it. There are many do it yourself references to this online if you search for them. I have done this in the past and I am getting ready to once again take on the project in my new home.
August 23rd, 2008 at 11:39 am
I have installed granite tiles and love the result except for one thing. The compound we used to seal around the sink is causing a stain all around the edge of the sink. We used a plumbers putty and I think the oil is causing the problem. We did seal the tile prior to putting the sink in. Help!