Homeowner’s Guide to Paint Primer
Painting & Finishing by Jerri Farris
Primers are specially formulated paint products that are used to prepare surfaces for the finish coat of paint. Their most important job is to adhere to the substrate while creating a uniform surface that is ready to receive paint. Primers also act to seal pores in wood and other permeable materials as well as to prevent stains, knots, and wood tannins from bleeding through. When properly applied, primers can make your paint job last longer and look better.
When to Prime
Every unfinished surface—including wood, drywall, metal, and concrete—should be primed before painting. While it can be tempting to skip this step, the results are almost always disappointing. Paint applied to unprimed surfaces tends to peel, crack, and chalk more than paint applied to properly primed surfaces.
Previously painted surfaces may not require priming unless you’re switching between oil-based or latex paint, or the existing paint is failing. Always scrape and sand any deteriorating surfaces before applying primer. Remember, your paint job is no better than the preparation that goes into it.
While it used to be necessary to apply oil-based primers over oil-based paint and latex primers over latex paints, many primers today allow you to switch between them as long as you prepare the surface properly. When painting over interior oil-based woodwork with latex, be sure to sand or degloss the surface first, then paint with a bonding primer before topcoating with latex. Painting over multiple layers of oil-based paint on the outside of older homes with latex paint can cause adhesion problems, so in that situation, you’re better to continue using oil-based house paint.
At first glance applying primer may seem like an unnecessary expense, but it actually saves money as well as time. A good coat of primer improves paint’s hide, or ability to cover, reducing the number of coats that are necessary to achieve a smooth finish. Primers can be tinted to match the paint color. Tinting improves the primer’s hide and smoothes the transition between primer and topcoat.
Types of Primers
Primers are available in oil, shellac, or latex-based formulas. Each type has differing properties and uses a different solvent for thinning and cleanup. Choosing which type to use is largely a matter of matching the primer’s characteristics to the project at hand.
Oil Primers
These slow drying primers release volatile organic compounds in the air and require mineral spirits for cleanup and thinning. They produce a very smooth finish that does the best job of filling pores in bare wood while not raising the grain. Oil primers also provide a good barrier to keep tannins from certain woods from bleeding through.
Oil primers are good to use for:
- Unfinished wood.
- Previously varnished wood.
- Redwood, cedar, or other woods that tend to bleed tannins.
- Heavily weathered wood.
- Over existing paint that is failing due to chalking or cracking.
Latex primers
These fast drying, water-soluble primers have come along way in recent years and are now available in low and no-VOC formulas. Latex primers are not as brittle as their oil or shellac-based cousins and provide a more flexible finish that is resistant to cracking. This makes them suitable for priming bare softwoods, though test them first to see if they raise the grain or allow resin to bleed through. Latex primers are the best choice for unfinished drywall, since they act to even out the texture and sheen between the wallboard and joint compound. They also allow water vapor to pass through, which can make them less likely to peel.
Use latex primers on:
- Unfinished drywall.
- Bare softwoods like pine.
- Masonry such as brick or concrete block.
- Galvanized metal, after proper cleaning.
Oil/Latex Paint Test
If you’re not sure whether the existing paint is oil-based or latex, wipe a small area with a clean rag saturated with denatured alcohol, paint deglosser, or non-acetone fingernail polish remover. If the paint is oil-based, it won’t be affected. If it’s latex, some paint will come off on the rag or the surface will become tacky.
Pigmented Shellac Primers
Shellac-based primers are fast drying and use denatured alcohol for thinning and cleanup. Though smelly and difficult to use, they are excellent at blocking stains and preventing bleed through.
Shellac primers should be used to prime or spot prime:
- Water, smoke, and rust stains.
- Knots, pitch pockets, and stubborn tannin bleeding.
- Wood, metal, plaster, or plastic when you need a fast drying product.
Application and Clean Up
All primers should be applied to clean, dry, grease-free surfaces. It is a good idea to lightly sand surfaces—followed by wiping off any dust with a tack rag or damp cloth—before applying primer. If the primer leaves the surface rough, lightly sand and dust it again before applying the finish coat. For best results, paint surfaces within a week after priming.
Make sure you have adequate ventilation when using any paint product. This means that there should be no more of the fumes in the room than if you were working outside. If opening the windows and using fans isn’t enough, wear a mask or respirator. You might also want to consider using one of the new low or non-VOC latex formulations when painting indoors.
For more information on specific primers, visit the Kilz and Zinsser websites.
66 Comments on “Homeowner’s Guide to Paint Primer”
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February 29th, 2008 at 02:31
Shellac-based primers are fast drying and use denatured alcohol for thinning and cleanup. Though smelly and difficult to use, they are excellent at blocking stains and preventing bleed through.
June 18th, 2008 at 15:31
Can I apply an oil-based sealer over a coat of latex paint and two coats of latex primer? I am painting an antique dresser, and the tannin in the wood seems to be bleeding through.
Ben Erickson Says:June 19th, 2008 at 15:36
Hi Pam,
I’ve had similar problems in the past, and while I can’t speak for every brand of sealer, you can prime over latex paint with Zinsser B-I-N (a shellac based product) and Cover-Stain (an oil based product). They also both come in spray cans if you just need to spot prime a few spots.
June 30th, 2008 at 14:08
I plan to paint a bedroom and noticed the current paint has little cracks you see when you look closely. The prior owner may have had wallpaper prior to the current paint…would cracks indicate the walls weren’t cleaned well after removing the wallpaper?
Is the best solution to prime before repainting?
Any suggestions would be helpful.
Thank you.
July 2nd, 2008 at 23:56
I used an oil based primer to prime the walls in my bathroom. I didn’t realize how much mess it would make. How do I clean the primer that has splattered on the tub, and toilet?
Thanks in advance for your help!
Ben Erickson Says:July 8th, 2008 at 13:38
Amanda,
Try using a paint scraper that holds a single edged razor blade.
August 19th, 2008 at 16:01
I have an exterior deck. Built with preserved wood, 4 years ago. It has been sealed with Thompson’s Water Seal twice. The last time 2 years ago.
I wish to paint the top, side rails, etc. (not the deck floor) white. I have been told to prime with exterior oil based primer then top coat with exterior latex.
Any suggestions?
Thank you
October 6th, 2008 at 23:56
The laminate on our kitchen cabinets is coming off I guess it’s old. The contact cement underneath appears to be dried out and seems to come off easily when sanded. I’ve tought about removing all of the laminate and then priming and painting the wood. (There’s actually wood, not particle board underneath the laminate). Do you have a suggestion for a primer/sealer and paint combination?
October 8th, 2008 at 12:04
I have a problem exterior window that gets scorched by the sun and blowing rain and snow. I have completely stripped off all layers of paint.
Instead of using oil based primer could I use a solid color
oil based stain and then use a gloss oil paint?
Any suggestion?
Thanks
Lori
January 3rd, 2009 at 18:58
I have a bed that I used polyshade stain and polyurthane on and I would like to paint over it with white Kiltz paint.The bed is a cherry color. Would I have to use a primer to keep the cherry color from bleeding through? Tell me if I can paint over stain
March 4th, 2009 at 17:39
Edna, I would use a Kiltz primer to prevent bleeding. I am just an amateur woodworker
July 9th, 2009 at 15:25
after applying an oil based primer, how long should I wait before painting ?
Ben Erickson Says:July 10th, 2009 at 08:02
Hi Nancy,
That will depend on the temperature, humidity, and particular product you’re using. Some can be painted over in as little as an hour, while others will need to dry overnight. Check the directions on the product you plan to use for more information.
July 25th, 2009 at 23:57
I am painting over doors and trim that were painted with oil 12 years ago, I lightly sanded, primed with Kilz 2 and applied one coat of Dunn Edwards latex semi-gloss. I is now peeling off like I didn’t do any prepping. What do I do now!
Do I have to sand it all off now or is there something I can just paint over the Kilz 2 with?
A very frustrated and tired homeowner!
Ben Erickson Says:August 4th, 2009 at 10:38
Hi Dorothy,
If possible, you’re probably better off removing it, being sure it’s sanded enough to take the gloss off, then repriming with an oil-based primer.
August 7th, 2009 at 16:59
I primed a painted ceiling.I roughed it up with sandpaper,
cleaned it off. Primed it,I felt it needed a second coat.
I noticed a bubble, it looked like a big boil. Should I sand
the area and reprime it? Thank You, Bill
August 31st, 2009 at 19:33
I am painting the outside of my house. The paint is flaking and bare wood is showing. I am going to use a lightly tinted primer. Why do I have to paint over it? It looks nice the way it is. Can I leave it with only the primer and forget about the paint? I live in Oregon where it rains a lot.
Ben Erickson Says:September 1st, 2009 at 13:39
Hi Marianne,
Primer isn’t formulated to hold up against direct exposure to the elements. To find out more, read Danny’s answer to a similiar question at Can Primer Be Used as the Finish Coat When Painting?.
December 27th, 2009 at 17:30
I am a professional painter and want to know if anyone knows of any waterbase primer that will not raise the grain of wood. Or at least one with minimal raising.
January 8th, 2010 at 12:05
We’ve just painted a ceiling with oil-based primer over a wall-papered ceiling and a coat of paint. It look as though Home Depot misinformed us about the primer. The guy said it was okay if the primer was transparent in areas but I’m seeing shadows now when I walk in the room from a certain direction and it looks like a dirty ceiling. Can we reprime and paint that? Thanks if you can answer us.
February 11th, 2010 at 05:55
We painted our ceiling that had a water spot with Zinsser oil based primer. After it dry we painted the whole ceiling with ceiling paint. But the very next day after the paint is dry the spots that we use primer cannot be cover up with paint no matter how many time we paint it. What had gone wrong? What can we do now? We really desperate for an answer. Hope you can answer us please.
February 24th, 2010 at 20:09
I would like to verify that I can use an oil based primer under a latex paint ( exterior) in a high humidity, tropical environment? Any information would be greatly appreciated.
Ben Erickson Says:February 25th, 2010 at 09:25
Hi Robert,
You can use an oil based primer under a latex paint, but if it’s very humid, it will take a long time (probably days at least) to dry. If possible, I would wait until the weather is less humid before painting with oil based.
March 3rd, 2010 at 05:36
I WANT TO PRIME & PAIANT WITH LATEX PRODUCTS THE DRYWALL ON A NEW CONSTRUCTION HOME. IT IS ACCEPTABLE TO MIX THE PAINT AND THE PRIMER AND APPLY IN ONE APPLICATION?.
Ben Erickson Says:March 3rd, 2010 at 17:20
Hi Lynwood,
If you’re trying to match the color of the primer to the color of the finished coat, you should have the paint store add colorant to the primer to tint it closer to the final color rather than mixing the primer and topcoat together.
March 4th, 2010 at 14:02
I live in Florida. I primed the house a year ago. Do I need to re prime the house before I paint or can I pressure wash it before?
Ben Erickson Says:March 5th, 2010 at 09:36
Hi Nikk,
I assume you’re talking about the outside of a house. If you primed it a year ago and didn’t go back and topcoat it with exterior paint within the time period recommended by the paint manufacturer, you would probably need to clean it thoroughly and reprime before painting, since primer should be topcoated within a set period of time. Your best is to contact the company that made the primer and see what they recommend.
April 12th, 2010 at 17:37
I want to paint a deck that has been stained redwood. I have tried to pressure wash it but the stain will not come off. Can I prime with oil based primer and then paint it?
Ben Erickson Says:April 13th, 2010 at 09:04
Hi Gary,
Most deck stains penetrate into the wood to some degree, so pressure washing will not take remove all of it. While you can paint a previously stained deck, if the beading effect of the stain has worn off and it has been cleaned thoroughly, I wouldn’t recommend it, since exposure to the elements will probably cause it to peel and blister after a year or two. Instead, clean the deck with a deck cleaner, allow it to dry thoroughly, then recoat it with a waterproofing deck stain. To find out more, watch our video on How to Clean and Finish a Wood Deck. If you do decide to try and paint it, you should clean the deck and allow it to thoroughly dry, then use a stainblocking oil based primer. Good luck with your project!
April 28th, 2010 at 02:53
Our stairs are thick pine stained dark. A lot of the color has worn off and I’d like to paint them dark grey or black with the risers white but don’t know where to start. The handrail definitely needs sanding before I do anything but the steps are really worn down – I doubt they ever had any polyurethane over the stain.
April 28th, 2010 at 14:19
[...] Primer, first and foremost is the start of any painting. It seals the surface, whatever shape it’s in, leaving a solid base ready for paint. Primers can be tinted and used to cover a darker shade. Tinted primer can save you time and money, because you’ll need less layers of your top coat. Always check to see that the primer is made for the surface you’re covering. [...]
May 11th, 2010 at 18:04
I have cabinet doors in my garage that are peeling and cracking. They are plywood, painted white and 14 years old. I have tried to sand off all the loose cracking paint. I have worked hours. I can not get all the paint off. It is smooth though as I started out with rough sandpaper then fine. Can I paint over the spots where I could not get the paint off? I would use the 1-2-3 primer then a high grade latex house paint.
Ben Erickson Says:May 12th, 2010 at 06:59
Hi Sandy,
You can paint over the old paint, just be sure that if the original finish was oil-based (see test in article above), you use a primer first that will bond to it, rather than just latex paint. Good luck with your project!
May 17th, 2010 at 15:43
Hi Danny, I own an 1897 home, shingle and clapboard siding;harsh weather-southern exposure, rain, snow. Has been painted before– I think more recently, 15yrs?, with a latex or acrylic type Pittsburg brand paint. Original indications of the dark green, lead based paint Am not taking the old completely down to bare wood but as much as possible and feathering. Yes, paying attention to removal. Am using half tint exterior oil primer, covering all clapboards, including bare wood, then a topcoat of SW Duration. Is this appropriate?
Is there a better brand for harsh weather–thanks for input –love your tv spots–
June 9th, 2010 at 19:33
Hi – We have three windows with wood frames that face E and get strong sun in the summer and plenty of snow and rain the rest of the year. The paint on them is peeling off in large sheets. The last time they were painted was at least 5 years ago (before I moved in).
1) Is there any way of knowing what kind of paint it is?
2) I have a painter coming to repaint the frames this weekend. He says he’ll scrape where needed and just paint over the rest. Sound okay?
3) What type of paint should I buy? Is oil the best option when you don’t know what the current paint is?
Thanks!
Ben Erickson Says:June 10th, 2010 at 09:18
Hi Hannah,
Make sure the painter does a thorough job of scraping off ALL the loose paint, and any remaining old paint has a good bond to the surface before repainting. At a minimum the painter should prime all the bare surfaces before topcoating, and given how it peeled in the past, it wouldn’t be a bad idea to prime all of it. You can find out more about primers, as well as an easy test to see if old paint is oil or latex, at Homeowner’s Guide to Paint Primer. Oil paint tends to peel more than latex outside, so I would go with a latex primer and top quality latex paint. Good luck with your project!
June 14th, 2010 at 00:10
I plan to antique my 20 yr old dining rm set – if I use a bonding primer (like Stix) can I skip sanding?
Ben Erickson Says:June 14th, 2010 at 10:35
Hi Lori,
It’s always a good idea to clean (to remove any wax, furniture polish, or dirt) and lightly sand surfaces with fine sandpaper (180-220 grit) before priming. Sanding will make the surface smoother and allow the primer to adhere better to glossy surfaces.
June 16th, 2010 at 06:52
I am going to repaint the exterior of my garage. I didn’t match my house exactly when I had the paint mixed last year. I am just lightening it slightly. When I painted it last year, I primed it and then used a latex house paint. Will I need to use a primer again when I repaint? I am again using a latex house paint. There is no chipping needed.
Ben Erickson Says:June 16th, 2010 at 10:59
Hi John,
You don’t need to prime your garage again to add another coat on top of what is there, just prime any spots that have peeled or chipped (in your case, it sounds like you don’t have any). Just be sure it’s clean before painting and you use the same type (oil or latex) of paint that you used before. Good luck with your project!
June 19th, 2010 at 12:46
The first time we primed and painted our smokey popcorn ceiling it took many gallons of primer to block the stains. we are painting again will it take as much primer this second time?
Ben Erickson Says:June 21st, 2010 at 09:35
Hi Annie,
An unpainted popcorn ceiling will soak up a lot of paint when you first prime it, but once the first coat has dried, subsequent coats should take much less. If you already primed and painted your popcorn ceiling, you shouldn’t need to prime it again (unless it has developed smoke stains again or the existing stains bled through), just apply another coat of the ceiling paint on top of what is there. Good luck with your project!
June 23rd, 2010 at 08:56
Just the back of old house has lead paint alligatoring and peeling. The painter scraped off some not all. He wants to use a tinted oil based primer and oil based solid stain. Will this paint job last? Is this the correct way to do this? Should we replace the siding and then paint?
Ben Erickson Says:June 24th, 2010 at 09:50
Hi Cathy,
It’s hard to say how well your paint/stain job will hold up without actually seeing it and knowing more about the existing siding. Both oil-based and latex products can perform well, though oil-based tends to peel more, since it’s impervious to water vapor coming through the wood from inside the house. For that reason, latex is usually the exterior paint of choice these days. Both solid stains and paint can hold up well, but the condition and material of your siding can make a big difference in whether it peels or not. Consumer Reports magazine (and their website, if you subscribe to it) regularly reviews exterior paints and stains, so you might want to check them out for particular brands. Most libraries subscribe to Consumer Reports and keep back issues of the magazine if you don’t have a subscription. Good luck with your project!
June 26th, 2010 at 23:24
We are having the same problems as “tired home owner” above. We painted a ceiling stain with zinnzer primer. Now we can not cover it with ceiling paint. HELP Please!!
June 28th, 2010 at 05:23
I have someone paint my ceiling with an inexpensive latex-based paint. Some spots were showing thru and he then went over them with water-based Kilz. He repainted and still the spots were showing. He then hit the spots up with an oil-based kilz. Painted again and showing dark stains. Went to the paint store and the clerk advised me to buy oil-based primer (Sherwin Williams) and to paint the entire ceiling. Now…I have an much bigger problem as there are many dark spots coming right through the primer throughout my living room and dining room. Don’t know if I need to have the ceiling sanded completely down to the sheet rock or if I need an entire new ceiling. Please help!
Ben Erickson Says:June 28th, 2010 at 10:01
Hi Cathy and Cyndee,
Make sure you’re using a stainblocking primer. I’ve had good results with Cover Stain from Zinsser to stop stains from bleeding through. It’s an oil based product. Given all your problems, I’d try rolling or spraying a coat on the entire ceiling.
Good luck with your project!
June 28th, 2010 at 11:01
We are painting kitchen cabinets. We sanded the first doors down. Primed with a primer supposed to be better (and more expensive) than kilz. Applied the paint (latex) and let it dry then repeated. Now there are tiny bubbles forming in the paint. Could this be wood polishing bleeding through? If so, how do we prevent it? Should we change to an oil based paint? Help!
Ben Erickson Says:June 28th, 2010 at 13:53
Hi Tony,
I’m not sure what would cause bubbles in the paint, but if the defects look like small craters, it’s probably fisheye which is caused by contamination of the surface usually from silicone found in furniture polishes (grease from cooking could cause it, too). If so, it’s hard to eliminate. You would need to clean the surface thoroughly with solvents then try again.
June 29th, 2010 at 07:56
Hello Ben,
I have a new fir screen door that I was going to finish with stain and varnish but decided to paint. I had water based stain (analine dye) on it already (no varnish)and painted over with Zinsser 123 primer with the intention to topcoat with a latex. Some of the stain bled through the first coat of primer. Should I use Bin (Shellac base) or the Zinsser oil based primer to cover the stains before the second coat of primer? Not sure if I can put oil based primer over water based primer. Thanks.
Ben Erickson Says:June 29th, 2010 at 08:52
Hi Dan,
You should be able to put either a shellac or oil-based primer on top of the latex primer to stop the stain from bleeding through. Good luck with your project!
July 1st, 2010 at 09:53
My living room was painted a dark color with latex paint. I want to change the color and re-paint the walls. I have latex paint in the color I want. my problem is that I accidentally used oil-based primer on top of the previously painted wall… can I just paint the wall with latex paint now or did I really mess up?
Ben Erickson Says:July 2nd, 2010 at 12:05
Hi Kelsey,
You didn’t mess up, primer is formulated so other paints will adhere well to them, so it’s fine to put oil-based primer over latex paint then apply another coat of latex paint on top. Where you can go wrong is trying to paint over glossy oil-based trim enamel with latex paint. If you don’t sand and prime the oil-based enamel first, The latex paint won’t adhere well and can chip and peel easily. Good luck with your project!
July 9th, 2010 at 15:52
Can I put a water based primer on an xterior door then cover it w/ an oil based topcoat?
July 11th, 2010 at 07:09
Just moved into first house two weeks ago, ready to start painting, at least a few rooms. Specifically two small children’s bedrooms that unfortunately have painted aqua colored stars as a border in one room and what can only Very described as multi colored twister circles in the other! Both room’s walls are white with the above mentioned border treatment, stars and circles are about 5-8 inches hifh. Help with our colorful problem!
Ben Erickson Says:July 12th, 2010 at 08:12
Hi Wayne,
I would try sanding the border decorations down a bit with a sanding block and medium (120 grit) sandpaper to smooth the surface, then prime over it with a stain blocking primer to keep the colors from bleeding through. Good luck with your project!
Ben Erickson Says:July 12th, 2010 at 08:53
Hi Jess,
Read the instructions on the can to be sure, but generally you can apply an oil-based paint over a latex primer, though personally if I’m planning on topcoating with oil-based paint, I would use an oil-based primer as well. Good luck with your project!
July 19th, 2010 at 00:28
How many coats of Kilz Clean Start should be used? I’m covering over a wall of dark, dark green. I’ve applied one coat and it didn’t cover very well. Not sure, since it is a sealer, if one coat will be enough or if the wall should be completely “WHITE” before painting.
Help!
July 20th, 2010 at 06:02
I have oak cabinets im trying to refinish. They were previously painted with paint. I have removed most of the paint however some paint still remins in the corners and crevases of the wood. When i try to stain the wood, The stain (im going dark) is not coating those spots well, where the residual paint is. I was going to try some more liquid type paint remover to remove some more paint. Is their a primer i can put on the wood and then stain on top of that. I would like to see a more even finish. What can I do?
Ben Erickson Says:July 20th, 2010 at 09:34
Hi Flo,
Wood stains are designed to penetrate into the wood, rather than cover over a nonporous surface like paint. For stains to work properly you need to remove all of the old finish and sand the surface down. There are some finishes available that are basically a lightly tinted varnish, such as Minwax Polyshades that can build up color on top of the wood, but the more coats you apply, the more opaque the wood grain will become. Good luck with your project!
July 26th, 2010 at 15:14
i just removed wallpaper from a bathroom and noticed that the adhesive from the wallpaper is still on the walls, dry but still on. Should the adhesive be washed off/removed before I prime, or can I apply primer over the surface as is?
Would latex or oil/shellac be the choice?
Ben Erickson Says:July 27th, 2010 at 08:55
Hi John,
It’s a good idea to get as much of the wallpaper adhesive off the walls as possible before refinishing. You can spray on a wallpaper remover to take it off. If the walls feel rough after they are dry, sand them lightly with medium sandpaper (120 grit) until smooth before priming and painting. If there is no residue or staining from the wallpaper glue on the walls, latex wall primer should be fine. Oil or shellac based primers have much better stainblocking abilities, so use on of them if you have residue still on the walls that might bleed through. Watch our videos on How to Remove Wallpaper and Removing Wallpaper to find out more. Good luck with your project!
August 4th, 2010 at 14:12
i just used kilz original primer on a portion of my closet…i really like the way it looks right now and don’t want to paint over it. it smells pretty strong in there. is there any problem with using kilz just as a paint, and also how long until the odor wears off?
Ben Erickson Says:August 4th, 2010 at 19:25
Hi Heather,
The smell will go away over time, but you might want to consider a low or no VOC primer and paint in the future to reduce the smell and improve your indoor air quality. Primer is not formulated to be used as a final topcoat and should be painted over. You can find out why in our article Can Primer Be Used as the Finish Coat When Painting. Good luck with your project!
August 5th, 2010 at 10:54
I am wanting to paint my already painted vinyl shutters on the outside of the house. The salesman sold me an oil based primer..and then for the top coat, latex paint meant for metal and wood. Now I’m beginning to get scared that the latex won’t hold good..or that it will bubble and I’ll get into a mess. Am I doing the right thing?
Ben Erickson Says:August 5th, 2010 at 19:29
Hi Elaine,
Since your vinyl shutters have already been painted, how well your new coats will last will be depend to a degree on the paint that’s already on them. You can find out more in our article on How to Paint Plastic or Vinyl Exterior Shutters. Good luck with your project!