How to Remove Textured “Popcorn” Ceilings
Featured, Painting & Finishing by Joe Cuhaj
Textured popcorn ceilings went out of style years ago, but many older homes—and some new ones—still have them. While taking down a textured ceiling is not that difficult, it is a messy job that requires hard work and special safety precautions.
Hazards
There are two potential problems that can turn removing a textured ceiling into a DIY nightmare:
- Acoustic texture manufactured before 1980 may contain asbestos and should be tested before being removed. While it doesn’t pose a health risk if left in place, removing a ceiling containing asbestos can stir up the fibers and cause them to become trapped in your lungs. More information about the dangers of Asbestos in Your Home can be found on the Environmental Protection Agency website.
- Another potential problem that can make removing a popcorn ceiling much more difficult is if paint has been applied over the texture. This prevents the texture from absorbing water, which is necessary to loosen the material. While a painted textured ceiling can be removed, it usually requires the application of a chemical stripper to breakdown the paint barrier.
To determine if either of these conditions applies to your ceiling, combine a few drops of liquid dishwashing soap with warm water in a hand sprayer. Lightly spray a small spot in an inconspicuous location, and wait a few minutes for it to absorb the water. If the water will not soak in, the ceiling has been painted. Otherwise, the texture should come off easily.
To test ceiling texture applied before 1980 for asbestos, use a putty knife to scrape a small amount into a sealable plastic bag. If you’re concerned about the possible health risks involved in taking the sample, a testing service can be hired to come out and take it for you.
Send the sample to an approved testing service to see if it contains asbestos. To find a testing service in your area, contact the state environmental or health office. A directory of state offices can be found on the EPA website.
If the material is found to contain over 1% asbestos then by law you can not remove it yourself and will need to contact a professional asbestos removal company or leave the ceiling as is. Even if it doesn’t contain asbestos, it’s important to wear an appropriate dust mask or respirator when removing the ceiling.
Equipment
To do the job you will need:
- Plastic sheeting (2-3 mil for walls, 6 mil for floors)
- Rosin paper
- Painter’s tape
- Rags
- Putty knife
- Pump up sprayer
- Liquid dishwashing soap
- 6” or wider floor scraper
- Mesh sanding pad with handle
- Drywall joint compound
- Drywall joint tape
- Dust mask or respirator
- Coveralls
- Eye protection
Preparation
Removing a textured ceiling is a messy job so good prep work is important to keep from damaging your walls or floor and to make clean up easier.
- Remove all furniture from the room.
- Turn off the heating or cooling system and close any vents. Ceiling vents should be removed and covered with plastic.
- Turn off the power to the room and remove any ceiling lights or paddle fans.
- Cover wall outlets and switches with plastic, sealing them with painter’s tape.
- Cover the floor with plastic, extending it a foot up the wall and attaching it with painter’s tape.
- Run painter’s tape on the wall around the ceiling along the walls and attach the 2-3 mil plastic sheeting to it, overlapping the plastic along the bottom of the wall.
- To assist in clean up, cover the floor with rosin paper, overlapping the sheets and taping them together.
Getting It Down
Be sure to wear a dust mask or respirator and safety glasses, and keep the part of the ceiling you are working on damp to reduce dust.
- If your ceiling wasn’t painted, fill a pump up sprayer with warm water and add 2-3 tablespoons of dishwashing soap per gallon of water.
- Saturate a 4-6 foot square section of the ceiling with the solution. Wet it enough to loosen it, but not so much that it damages the drywall under the texture.
- Wait 15-20 minutes for the solution to be absorbed by the texture material.
- Use a floor scraper, or other wide bladed tool, to gently scrape away the popcorn texture. Be careful not to gouge the drywall or tear the drywall joint tape.
- If the texture proves difficult to remove, spray it again, wait a few minutes, and try again.
- Use a putty knife to remove any residual material as well as to get into the corners.
Repairs and Finishing Touches
You’ll probably need to do some drywall finishing to the ceiling after the texture has been removed, including:
- Hammer any visible nails or screws below the surface and cover them with joint compound.
- Replace any damaged drywall tape and smooth out the joints with joint compound.
- Once the repair work has dried, sand the ceiling with a long handled mesh sanding pad. Sand only to remove the high spots, as too much sanding will damage the ceiling.
- The final touch is to prime and paint the ceiling using latex ceiling paint.
A Great Workout
Removing that dated popcorn ceiling will save a trip to the gym by giving your arms and upper body a great workout. In addition to your bulging biceps, the smooth ceiling will add value in your house and make all the hard work worthwhile.
13 Comments on “How to Remove Textured “Popcorn” Ceilings”
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July 2nd, 2008 at 2:54 pm
Sooo…what if the ceiling is painted? After all, aren’t most ceilings painted?
B
July 2nd, 2008 at 4:06 pm
For me, it is a very appropriate article in that I have on my chore list removal of “popcorn texture” in several rooms.
Thanks for such a good article.
July 2nd, 2008 at 4:42 pm
I have water based popcorn textured ceilings. I would like to install crown moldings. My question is how do I conceal the seams of were the molding meets the popcorn cover? If I touch the popcorn in anyway it is destroyed and can be seen. Thank You
July 3rd, 2008 at 1:50 am
Thanks for the information on popcorn ceilings.It was Great. I might try it, my house is 3years old. I don’t think there’s any danger. Thank You Very Much.
July 3rd, 2008 at 4:49 am
I work for Home Depot. In the paint dept. we have a tool that is made especially for removing popcorn ceilings. You attach a garbage bag to the tool and it collects the ceiling as you scrape it down. It has a scraper on the tool. You can also attach a long handle to the end and saves your arms. Many customers have told me that it really works great.
Ben Erickson Says:July 8th, 2008 at 12:30 pm
Hi Bill,
Popcorn ceilings often are left unpainted. If they have been painted, the paint will have to be broken down so the water can penetrate. Try spraying it first with a stripper such as DIF Wallpaper Stripper by Zinsser.
September 20th, 2008 at 9:10 am
I have a newer popcorn ceiling – wouldn’t it be easier to just add new ceiling panels over it?
November 15th, 2008 at 8:46 am
would it be better just to slap 3/8 drywalll over the popcorn?
November 30th, 2008 at 8:54 am
i am taking down the whole ceiling, its not in great shape and i need access to rewire the second floor as i dont have an attic
January 3rd, 2009 at 7:28 am
My husband and I are considering purchasing an older home, built in 1981. Every room in this large home, 3500 square feet has popcorn ceilings that has gold glitter. Since this is a foreclosure home, and the bank that owns the property is in an entire different state, there is no property disclosure. My question is: if the popcorn ceiling is found to have asbestos upon inspection, would it be better to hire a company to scrape the popcorn ceiling causing the labor cost to be tremendous, as parts of the ceiling are two story and others are vaulted? Or would it be better to just demo the ceilings and redrywall, which will also be quite costly? The ceilings are the only concern with this home as everything else basically needs paint and new flooring.
January 7th, 2009 at 4:57 pm
I found this information very useful. Unforutunately, my ceilings are painted which means I have an extra step. To make matters worse, it’s evident that my ceilings are not in the best shape. It looks as though there may have been a leak that was repaired but the patch job is horrible- the ceiling isn’t level. So that means I will have to learn how to patch up the ceiling or hire someone to do it- damn!
January 9th, 2009 at 8:26 pm
I am sitting her thinking of redoing my ceilings. My handyman suggested I get the Home Depot scraper and knock it down myself. Otherwise, it is costly. I paid $600 for the LR, DR, and Hall. It was wet and messy but done in two days. Trying to save money this time around.
January 28th, 2009 at 9:38 am
I removed my popcorn ceiling easily using the method above. Just make sure that the floors are covered and you mask off 12 inches down from the ceiling. The tool from Home Depot works well but the edges tend to gouge. A 10 inch taping knife works the best. I did it in about one minute for every square foot and the drywall underneath was in pretty good shape. As the article says, sand and prime.