How to Prevent and Remove Mold
Safety and Security by Joe Cuhaj
Mold is all around us and in every breath we take. It plays an important role in the natural process of decay and is used to make everything from cheese to penicillin. If allowed to grow unchecked inside your home, however, mold can result in damage to both the structure and your health.
Health Effects
Exposure to most mold usually only causes minor allergic reactions—such as sniffling, watery eyes, and sneezing—that subside a few hours after leaving the infected area. Some people are more sensitive than others and may experience a stronger reaction that can include difficulty breathing and asthma attacks.
Several types of mold release toxic substances called mycotoxins. Exposure to high concentrations of mycotoxins from Stachybotrys (a greenish-black green mold that grows on cellulose material such as wallpaper, cardboard, and wallboard) or Chaetomium (a white to gray colored mold found on decaying wood and water damaged drywall) may lead to more severe health issues including chronic bronchitis, heart problems, and bleeding lungs. There is still an ongoing debate in the scientific and medical community about the health effects of this so called “toxic” mold.
Where to Find Mold
Mold feeds off organic matter and requires a moist environment to grow. Typical areas where mold can accumulate in the home include:
- Bathrooms, kitchens, and laundry rooms.
- Basements and crawl spaces under house.
- Heating and air conditioning systems.
- Pipes and ductwork.
- Around windows.
- In attics due to leaking roofs.
Cleaning Up Mold
If the mold is limited to an area of less than 10 square feet, then you might be able to clean it up yourself. Areas larger than that should be handled by a professional.
If you decide to enlist a professional, make sure they are trained and experienced in mold cleanup. It is also a good idea to request and check references from past jobs to determine the quality of their work.
Removing mold yourself:
- Wear rubber gloves that go mid-way up your forearm. Household rubber gloves are fine for detergent use while neoprene rubber gloves are best for stronger cleaners.
- Use an N-95 respirator, which is available at most hardware stores.
- Wear eye protection, preferably goggles without ventilation holes.
- For mild cases, scrub with warm water and detergent.
- For more severe problems, use a solution of one cup bleach to a gallon of water. Never mix bleach with cleaning products containing ammonia as it can cause the release of toxic gas.
- Dry the area thoroughly. Remember, moisture is mold’s best friend.
- When done scrubbing the area, there should be no visible mold or moldy smell.
- Make sure the area is completely clean and dry before painting or caulking.
If you suspect mold in porous surfaces or carpets, it is best to throw them out. It is virtually impossible to get mold out of these materials.
Prevention
Since mold loves moisture, it’s important to remove the source of water to prevent it from returning.
Potential problem areas to address to keep mold at bay include:
- Check attic for roof leaks, and repair any that are found.
- Weather strip and caulk leaky windows.
- Install insulated glass or storm windows to prevent condensation problems.
- Examine pipes for leaks and insulate if needed.
- Keep gutters and downspouts clean.
- Channel water from downspouts away from house.
- Examine basement for leaks and repair if necessary.
- Check crawl space for excess moisture, and apply black plastic to ground to reduce humidity.
- Be sure HVAC units drain properly and that drains are not clogged.
- Inspect HVAC ducts for excess moisture. Repair or replace the insulation around them if wet.
- Use a high quality air filter with HVAC units, and change it regularly.
- Install bathroom fans that are vented to the outside. Run them during—and for 15 minutes after—showers.
- Open doors and windows during dry weather to increase air circulation.
- Keep the humidity in your home between 30 and 50 percent. Check it with a humidity gauge or moisture meter and use a dehumidifier to lower it if necessary.
- Make sure gas and kerosene heaters and fireplaces are properly vented to the outside to reduce the amount of moisture in the air.
When replacing your central air conditioning unit, be sure it is sized properly for the house and climate. While an oversized unit will cool the house down faster, it won’t remove as much moisture from the air. You might also consider adding a dehumidifier to the central system if you live in a climate with high humidity or use a portable model for problem areas.
Hidden Problems
If your home still smells moldy or members of your family are having health issues, there could be a hidden mold problem. Mold can grow unseen under wallpaper, dry wall, ceiling tiles, and in heating and air conditioner vents. If hidden mold is suspected, have the house inspected by a professional. If you think there might be mold in your HVAC system, do not run the unit until the problem has been solved.
Though mold will always be with us, a little diligence on your part can help keep it in check. Prevention and early detection are important, so catch it early and you’ll breathe easier.
Related Links
- EPA Guide to Mold
- Mold Help
- American Environmental Health Foundation
- CDC Guide to Dealing with Mold after a Disaster
14 Comments on “How to Prevent and Remove Mold”
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November 17th, 2007 at 12:05 am
Another place where mold can grow for Northern viewers is in a closet that is on an exterior wall(not proper building practice). And mainly because of the pack rat tendency of people to stuff the closet full, against the cold outside wall, Resulting in no air circulation and a higher humidity level.
November 19th, 2007 at 8:16 pm
Mold need water and food(wood,paper).Water comes from not only leaking pipes and or rain leaks, but condensation.
Condensation can be caused by uninsulated area which allow the air to cool and condense -such as a cold water pipe behind a wall or showers and baths. The moisture can condense on light fixtures etc.The point is that water comes from the air in many ways.The growth that occurs usually is in a cold damp place.So keep things insulated and vented .If you have mold and get it removed,make sure you fix the reason it(mold) grew there in the first place.
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July 2nd, 2008 at 8:34 pm
How do I remove mold & mildew from my vinyl siding, I seen a brief demo on the weather channel, however, I only seen the last few seconds. What was the mixing of the solutions?
Also, I believe I have water leaks within the walls of my home. I’ve had the builders return a few times and they assured me that it is the pipes contracting and expanding. I still hear what sounds like water leaking even when no one is using any water source. The problem I have there’s no access for me to inspect for water leakage. The house is a 2003 ranch with basement, that has no crawl space nor anyother void that I can get into to conduct checks. Any suggestions?
Ben Erickson Says:July 8th, 2008 at 1:44 pm
Greg,
To remove mold from vinyl siding, spray on a solution of 1 part bleach to 4 parts water with a little detergent mixed in to make it stick better. Let it sit for 10-20 minutes then hose off. As far as the water leak goes, monitor your water meter and see if it changes when no water has been used.
July 11th, 2008 at 6:04 pm
Thanks Ben
July 25th, 2008 at 6:27 pm
I have a reoccuring problems with mold in several spots in our house, particularly on the ceiling in the master bedroom. There is some condensation buildup overnight, and this room is shady in the morning. To try to counter this we open up windows and ventilate as much as possible, but the mold continues to return. I have cleaned with a mixture of bleach and water to no avail? Do you have any other suggestions to try and fix this long term (should we use a dehumifier at all?).
Thank you very much.
November 8th, 2008 at 12:13 pm
I just saw your program on going green. You had a segment on removing mold using a non-toxic product. I missed the product’s name. Instructed to go to your web site for more information. What is the non-toxic product’s name to remove mold?
Thanks!
November 8th, 2008 at 3:00 pm
Janet says:November 8 2008 We have a problem: When I do laundry I get dizzy when the machine empties out and spins and also how do you find a broken vent pipe in the wall if that is the problem. Thanks
Ben Erickson Says:November 10th, 2008 at 5:41 pm
Hi Mike,
It’s called Concrobium and is available at The Home Depot. I rented their fogger and used it to fog the crawlspace under our house. Find out more about it in our episode article (678) How to Go Green on a Budget
December 12th, 2008 at 8:09 am
Danny,
I have green mold on copper pipes underneath the sinks in my vanity in bathroom. Do you have any suggestions on how to clean these up.
April 29th, 2009 at 12:36 am
I HAVE A PAVER BLOCK PATIO.THIS YEAR WE HAVE GREEN MOLD IN SOME SPOT OF THE AREA.WHAT CAN WE DO TO GET RID OF THE MOLD.I KNOW THAT BLEACH KILLS MOLD,BUT WILL IT HARM OR DISCOLOR THE PAVERS?PLEASE CAN YOU HELP? THANKS
June 7th, 2009 at 6:07 am
i watched your show sun am re placing plastic in your crawl space.. and topping it with a substance.. was it foam?
what is the reason for the topping.. other than holding
the plastic in place.. i would appreciate your answer..
we have a crawl space.. and need to make it as safe as
possible.. thanks.. sylvia 6-7-09.. morning show at 5:30am
June 7th, 2009 at 6:09 am
i want to know what topping was placed on the black plastic
over the crawl space.. sun 5:30am 6-7-09.. thanks
Ben Erickson Says:June 8th, 2009 at 8:03 am
The topping put on top of the black plastic in the crawl space in the Safe at Home episode was a layer of clean, dry sand. The purpose was to hold the plastic in place, as well as to absorb any excess moisture caused by condensation.