How to Install a Granite Tile Countertop
Kitchens and Baths by Jared Libby
While granite is a popular choice for kitchen countertops, the high cost of materials and installation can put a big dent in your home improvement budget. A less expensive alternative to a pricey granite slab is to use 12”x12” granite tiles instead. Not only do granite tiles make an attractive and durable countertop, they’re easy to apply and weigh much less than a solid granite top, making it a perfect DIY project.
Tools Needed:
- Level
- Square
- Tape measure
- Safety glasses
- Carbide tipped scoring tool
- Circular saw
- Drill with screwdriver bits
- Jigsaw
- Notched trowel
- Rubber padded grout float
- Sponge
- Stone polisher (rent)
- Tile saw (rent)
Materials Needed:
- ¼” x 12” x 12” granite tiles
- ¾” plywood
- ½” cement backer board
- Screws
- Masking tape
- Thin-set mortar
- Unsanded grout
- Grout sealer
Install Plywood Substrate
Begin by removing the existing countertops, then check to be sure the cabinets are level—both left to right and front to back.
Cut a piece of ¾” plywood to serve as the base for the top, making sure to allow for the desired overhang. For a thicker look, double the plywood, or glue and screw a strip of wood along the outer edge of the top. With the plywood in position, measure from the cabinet to the edge of the plywood.
Transfer this measurement to the top of the substrate, adding half the thickness of the cabinet frame, and mark the location for the screws.
Drill holes and screw the plywood to the top of the cabinets.
As an alternative, the plywood substrate can be screwed from underneath to brackets or a ledger strip located inside the cabinets.
Apply Cement Backer Board
Once the plywood substrate has been screwed down, cover it with ½” cement backer board. Cut the backer board to size by scoring it with a carbide tipped scoring tool and breaking it much as you would drywall. While cement board can also be cut using a circular saw, it makes for a very dusty job, so work outside and be sure to wear a respirator and safety glasses.
Screw the cement board to the plywood, being sure to countersink the screws below the surface.
Cut 2” strips of cement board and attach them to the edges of the substrate flush with the top.
Cut the hole for the sink using a jigsaw. Most new sinks provide a template. Measure carefully to be sure the hole is centered over the base cabinet.
Fitting the substrate around the stove will vary depending on the type of cooking surface you have. A freestanding stove requires no substrate while a drop-in type will need backing between the stove and wall.
Polishing Edges
Polish any exposed tile edges before installation using a polisher specifically designed for stone.
A stone polisher uses a series of coarse to fine pads. Begin with a coarse pad in the 50-150 grit range and work up to 3000-5000 grit.
Rough or sharp edges can also be rounded using the polisher. Both wet and dry polishers are best used outside, as the process can be messy.
Laying the Tile
Use a notched trowel to spread thin-set mortar on the cement board substrate.
Lay full tiles on the outer edge first, butting them together. Remember to overhang the tiles to allow for the edging.
While granite tiles average ¼” thick, individual tiles can vary. To compensate for thinner tiles, use a thicker bed of mortar. Check with a level as you go to be sure all the tiles are the same height.
Cutting Tile
Once the full tiles have been laid, use a tile saw to cut pieces to fit along the wall.
Both tile saws and polishers can be rented at tool rental centers.
Since it may be hard to see marks on granite, a strip of masking tape can be applied to the tile to make them easier to see.
Edging and Backsplash
When the top is complete, apply thin-set to the side of the cement board substrate and position the edge tiles. For a uniform look, align the joints with the top. Use tape to hold the edge tiles until the mortar has dried.
To form a backsplash, apply thin-set to the drywall and press the tiles in place.
Applying Grout
Even though the tiles are butted together, the narrow seams need to be filled with unsanded grout. Use a rubber padded grout float to force the grout into the seams then wipe off the excess with a damp sponge.
Once the grout has dried thoroughly, apply a high quality sealer to the seams to prevent stains.
Install the sink, faucet, and appliances to complete the job.
June 1st, 2008 at 7:51 am
This counter looks great. Are there problems with the grout joints getting wet? How much would it cost to put this together?
June 7th, 2008 at 7:56 am
How do I prepare the surface to install 2 large pieces of granite on an outside countertop?
July 7th, 2008 at 8:31 pm
Hi, I am in the process of installing a granite tile counter top and forgot to apply any adhesive to the underneath side of the backerboard. Is this a huge problem? Also, I can not seem to get my screws to countersink well. Will it be ok if they stick up a bit given that I will be applying an 1/8″ of thinset. Your help is appreciated! Thanks!
July 8th, 2008 at 2:21 pm
I’m looking into doing this project in my kitchen…we currently have somewhat new formica countertops with a 2.5″ wood trim that was built to coordinate with the cabinets. Is it possible to reuse this wood trim so not to have to deal with the edging/nosing. if so what is the best way to salvage it? Also do we need to tear up the existing formica covered top and put new plywood down???
Ben Erickson Says:July 9th, 2008 at 11:03 am
Hi Justin,
As long as you screw the cement backerboard down well to the plywood, adhesive shouldn’t be necessary. While countersinking the screws would be better, as long as you have a good coating of thinset over them, it shouldn’t be a problem.
July 15th, 2008 at 11:56 pm
I just installed a section of a granite tile countertop. I was not happy with the thin set, it was very difficult to get it even. As a result, now that the countertop is “set” my wife notices that some of the tiles are uneven. I still have another countertop to do and was looking for a better quality thinset, one that is easy to work with that will result in even tiles throughout. Do you have any suggestions?
July 21st, 2008 at 5:42 pm
isn’t there some way to mix epoxy and particles of tile or some way to hide the grout lines better? I thought I had heard this practice being used somewhere. I may have been dreaming lol. I know they make a new thin granite countertop, almost a veneer if you will, that isn’t what I am referring to.
July 23rd, 2008 at 5:10 pm
As long as you seal the grout you should be fine. Granite tiles vary in price but it is about 5 bucks per 12×12 tile. You will need a Diamond tipped wet saw blade (this typically comes with the wet saw, that is if you purchase one, ranging from 88 bucks to 300 at Lowes or Home Depot) the backerboard is about 10 bucsk per 4ft x 8ft and comes in 1/4 inch or 1/2 inch. grout is about 10 bucks per bag, adhesive is about 13 bucks per bucket (if you are an amature, go with the premixed adhesive), there are specific screws that work very well with backerboard (about 3 bucks), but you will need the bit for it. Be sure to follow the recommended curing time for the adhesive, grout and sealent. Also be sure to buy more tiles (about 10% more) to account for any mistakes in cutting, but you will also have trouble returning them for the full price as you most likely will have to special order them.
July 31st, 2008 at 3:35 pm
Can granite tiles be used with under counter sinck mount? I really do not want a top mount sink.
August 6th, 2008 at 9:48 pm
Is there any way to install a new countertop (granite tiles or porcelain tiles) on top of the existing formica?
August 22nd, 2008 at 8:19 pm
Janelle,
You can install tile and possibly granite tiles over top of the existing formica as long as the countertop is in perfect condition. Even if it is not in perfect condition, if it is repairable, you may still be able to do it. There are many do it yourself references to this online if you search for them. I have done this in the past and I am getting ready to once again take on the project in my new home.
August 23rd, 2008 at 11:39 am
I have installed granite tiles and love the result except for one thing. The compound we used to seal around the sink is causing a stain all around the edge of the sink. We used a plumbers putty and I think the oil is causing the problem. We did seal the tile prior to putting the sink in. Help!
September 4th, 2008 at 8:28 am
How do tou cut the tiles around the sink. It’s a round cut and I have a side grinder. Is this the way to do it?
Do you recommend foam rather than plumbers putty to seal around the flush sink?
Would the weight of a full sink break the granite tiles?
September 6th, 2008 at 5:10 pm
I’d like to ask a question. I have the granite slab cut out…ready for the sink and facuet. I was told that I need angle lines because my sink is heavy (I have a black cast iron, how do I measure for the angle lines?) Once I get the angle lines, do I have to use the backer board for the granite slab…just like you did with the titles.?
September 7th, 2008 at 7:00 pm
I am thinking to install a new granite tile countertop but the existing one is formica.Can I take the formica off and lay the tiles on or do I need to screw plywood on the existing one? And also,if not do I need to use cement backer board before laying the tiles?I really appreciate your help.
September 12th, 2008 at 6:06 am
I am in the process of installing granite tiles on an island countertop (to be used only for eating and food prep. Do I have to use a concrete backerboard besides the plywood?
Ben Erickson Says:September 15th, 2008 at 9:38 am
Yes. The purpose of the cement backerboard is to keep the tiles from cracking and pulling loose due to movement in the wood.
September 22nd, 2008 at 4:43 pm
Can you tell me exactly which kind of pads do I need to polish the sides of the granite tile? Should I buy a whole set or can I just buy specific ones?
October 1st, 2008 at 1:22 pm
I seem to have problems with the surface of the tile after applying an initial coat of sealer “Stone Glamor”. The surface now feels gritty and need to remove the gritty feel before applying the 2nd coat. ANY remedies?? Thanks Rob
October 24th, 2008 at 1:37 pm
I have a formica counter top in perfect condition. Can I lay granite tiles directly on top of formica. If not, can cement board go on top of formica and then lay tiles.
October 28th, 2008 at 12:57 pm
I’m installing granite tile and plan to use a matching granite chair rail. Since this piece will be considerably heavier than the piece you used for the edge, I am worried about it staying in place while the thin set cures. Any tips?
October 29th, 2008 at 4:28 pm
As I started popping off the old 12×12 ceramic tiles on my kitchen counter I noticed that they were applied directly to the formica, which was in good if not perfect condition. Can the same be done with granite tiles or do I need backer board?
October 30th, 2008 at 11:39 am
Yes, I have the same question as Laura B. It would cut out alot of work if I can place the tiles directly onto the existing solid-surface countertops, will this affect the results negatively?
October 30th, 2008 at 5:39 pm
Same question as A. Moore and Laura B. We have a nice flat surface to start from already. What would need to be changed?
thank you.
November 1st, 2008 at 5:59 pm
Can I safely butt ceramic tiles the way you did granite ?
November 3rd, 2008 at 8:56 pm
Same question as everyone above regarding putting tiles directly over formica instead of putting the cement backer board first? Screwing down the backer board into formica could expose the underlying particle board to moisture which would be counter productive. Has anyone tried just sanding the top of the formica counter tops and than laying the granite tiles right over it? I, and several of the above posters, would appreciate a response. Thanks.
November 5th, 2008 at 10:37 pm
Yes you can tile over Formica. Use the TAVY Thin skin system. I used it on Formica and over an existing tile floor. See thus video
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wCopXfZYzKA
Also check out here http://www.tavytools.com/
November 14th, 2008 at 4:59 pm
I currently have a concrete countertop which I dont like and would like to granite tile over it. Do I need to use plywood/cement board ? or can I tile right over it? If so, how do I prepare the surface?
Thanks
November 16th, 2008 at 7:56 am
I recently did my own Granite tile counter tops and back splash, including the adjoining breakfast bar. We were fortunate to find matching Granite bull nose pieces at the same store as the tile - Floors Decor (a national chain) and although the bull nose was 3 - 4 times the tile costs, it made for a very impressive finished product. Our costs to complete this was less than a quarter of the bids we got for solid granite (which did not include back splash) and was within a few $100 of doing the lamiate counter tops from chain Home improvement store. I noticed the other day that some of the Lowes stores now carry the bull nose granite too.