Water Heater Maintenance
Ask Danny, Plumbing, Repairs and Installation, Video by Danny Lipford
A poorly maintained water heater costs more to operate and can even cause damage to your home. Even a small, slow leak can cause water damage and decay. To make sure this doesn’t happen to you, once a month check pipe connections, valves, and underneath the unit for any signs of a leak.
If the heater is a gas model, be sure the vent pipe is in place and unobstructed. About once a year check the pressure relief valve by pulling up or pushing down on the valve handle to be sure that hot water comes out of the overflow pipe. If it does, then the valve is working properly.
Finally, you should periodically drain a bucket of water from the faucet at the bottom of the tank to remove any sediment at the bottom of the heater which could corrode the unit and reduce its heating efficiency.
25 Comments on “Water Heater Maintenance”
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April 15th, 2007 at 10:40
THe gas company installed a new gas water heater.The installers dropped tank on the cement bringing it in. [bottom dented on edge showing a 6"hg x 4" wd x 1" dp.]
tank does not leak but i have noticed since instalaition of this tank,when turning on hot water it comes out of tap a milky whitish color for a minute or so tnen it sometimes clears up sooner.what could be causing this?Gas company says it is normal,fill glass and it will clear, which it does.still skepticle as i have never encountered this in 40 years.thank you in advance for any info you can give me on this matter. Frank
May 9th, 2007 at 15:27
well I try to empty out my tank but nothing comes out the water only come outs when I open up the water what am I doing wrong thanks luis
May 29th, 2007 at 21:32
I recently had the T&P relief valve on my water heater replaced as well as the Pressure Reducing Valve on the main water supply. The factory setting on the PRV is 50psi. I have been monitoring the pressure to check for thermal expansion and the overnight readings range from 90psi – 130 psi. At what point should I install an expansion tank? If the high pressure does not get above 90 psi, do I still need an expansion tank? Thank you.
July 4th, 2007 at 23:52
Check your pressures on the inlet side of the tank and outlet side to see the difference in actual pressure…
October 21st, 2007 at 07:46
My hot water heater makes noises from time to time that seem rather odd. It will just start making a popping/sizzling noise for ~30 sec’s and then quiet right down – does this on random frequency?? Could it be ‘airbound’ and this is the cold water hitting hot element?
October 23rd, 2007 at 17:18
With LP or Nat gas combustion you have several things produced -water is one of them, as the gas is heated the water vapor is in a transiant state from just below steam temperature.Until the flue gasses heat up enough to cause the combustables up the flue-some of the water vapor drips back down on the burner. If you notice when you first star a car the exhaust drips water for a bit until the engine heats up–same thing.Most new heaters and furnaces are called condensing type,which means exactly that.the furnace is so efficient that the exhaust is cool enough to produce condensation and actually needs a drain and can use PVC flue pipe.
You may have a blocked flue or may not be pitched up enough.
October 28th, 2007 at 09:18
After watching the segment on tv i followed the steps to drain the sedement from my electric water heater. Now the heater does not want to come back on. The power is on, what am i doing wrong?
November 11th, 2007 at 00:47
I have a fairly new 40 Gal. electric water heater that has been working great since April. This is a vacation home that I only get to on weekends. Last week I turned on the water to take a shower and the sulphur smell was terrible. Rotten Eggs. What could have caused this? Only the hot water. What can I do to remedy the situation shy of draining the tank?
been working great
January 15th, 2008 at 23:07
Water is coming out of the pressure relief valve on my water heater. It will leak almost nothing for days, and then will push out multiple gallons of water on a given day. Could this be a defective T&P relief valve, knowing that the amount of water coming out is inconsistent? Also, is it possible that a water heater can be fine for 6 years, and then all of a sudden need a thermal expansion tank?
January 16th, 2008 at 19:38
You can try to change the sacrificial anode its the metal rod in all electric HWH’s sometimes the magnesium cna be changed to aluminum and may be the cause.
February 4th, 2008 at 13:50
Dave,
I am having the same problem with a small amount of water leaking out my T&P valve. I replaced what I thought was a defective valve only to have the new one do the same thing. I have a 40 gallon gas water heater with an expanion tank. The water heater is 2 years old.
What gives?
February 20th, 2008 at 18:36
Why doesnt water go inside the water heater?
November 2nd, 2008 at 17:06
We recently replace our old water heater and we noticed that the water pressure is not the same as it was and as the days, months went on the amount of water coming ou from our faucets is really little. My husband got discoureaged when he asked 1 plumer about our problem, his recommednation was to repipe the whole house which will cost arounf $ 8,000.00. This is a lot of money and I am not confident with that recommendation. Hope you can give us some advise on is the best ting to do. Thanks
November 6th, 2008 at 21:56
A plumber installed a power vented gas water heater about two years ago. Now when the wash machine is working or someone takes a shower, it leaks water onto the basement floor. I can’t see where it is coming from. Surely it couldn’t rust in two years. The pressure relief valve works and the condensate tube is “looped”. Any ideas?
November 16th, 2008 at 09:00
I live in mobile and inside my closet is the water heater, the pressure valve is leaking and running down the pvc pipe and is running under the mobile now the ground under the home is like lake. could this be the pressure valve? do you have to shut off the gas piolet and drain the water any answers thanks
December 24th, 2008 at 13:36
I have a 40 gallon gas fired tall heater. When the burner is running there is a bubbling or crackling noise from bottom of tank. This sound gets worse if you turn on a faucet (call for water)and burner is running. I don’t think it is condensation from flue because of the extra noise when a faucet is turned on. Any help please?
January 31st, 2009 at 20:46
my waterheater is making a sizzling sound after the tank was starting to refill the hotwater. do you know what this could be.
March 29th, 2009 at 07:57
I have notice my water heater is leaking around the cold water supply valve is this someting I can repair myself, and what would be some of the possible symptoms?
September 7th, 2009 at 16:23
Folks, why asks questions here? Obviously nobody is answering….
Ben Erickson Says:September 8th, 2009 at 07:25
Hi Dan,
The space under each article on our website is reserved for comments that visitors would like to post. These can be general comments, feedback about the article, questions about the topic, or answers to questions posted by other visitors or members. While it’s not possible for Danny and the Today’s Homeowner staff to respond personally to the thousands of comments on our site, we do read every one and respond when we can.
November 27th, 2009 at 18:47
I have a new hot water heater we hooked up electricity i have power to the tank but the tank does nothing. I have pushed the reset switch! What is wrong!!!!
February 22nd, 2010 at 16:42
well I try to empty out my tank but nothing comes out the water only come outs when I open up the water what am I doing wrong?
Ben Erickson Says:February 23rd, 2010 at 09:06
Hi Bill,
Once you’ve turned off the cold water intake line to the water heater and opened the drain at the bottom, you will need to either open a hot water faucet in your sink or open the pressure relief valve to allow air into the system to get it to drain.
June 21st, 2010 at 17:47
I have an electric water heater, the bottom toward the rear os beginning to show signs of corrosion, what should I do?
June 22nd, 2010 at 21:50
We have replaced the thermostat units but now there is very little hot water pressure. Any suggestions? Thanks!