Fall and spring are great seasons for planting container grown trees and shrubs in your yard. Plants grown in containers are generally available only during the growing seasons, but they benefit from time to get established before the weather becomes too hot or cold.

Container grown trees and shrubs do best if you take the time to plant them correctly, so a few extra minutes spent planting can result in carefree plants for years to come.

Most trees and shrubs need a year or so to become established.

Do Your Homework

The best way to ensure success is by choosing trees and shrubs compatible with your climate. Before purchasing, you should:

• Take note of the light, water, temperatures, and air circulation in the planting area.
• Do a soil test to see if your soil needs pH or nutrient adjustment. You can do a little adjusting to fit your plants, but you’ll have better luck if you choose plants suited for your conditions.
• Determine how well your soil drains. Some trees and shrubs don’t like soggy roots while others hate drying out.

Adding a little phosphorus helps root growth.

Step 1: Tools and Materials

To plant container grown trees and shrubs, you’ll need:

• Shovel and/or mattock
• Sharp, sterile knife
• Gardening gloves
• Hose or watering can
• Organic soil conditioner (about half a bag per plant)
• A source of phosphorus (such as bone meal)
• Mulch
• Trees or shrubs

Be sure to give each plant room to grow to full size.

Step 2: Mark Locations

• Place plants (still in containers) where they will go. Work out the correct spacing and distribution before you start digging, making sure each plant will have room to spread out to its mature size without rubbing against structures or other plants.
• Take your shovel or mattock and mark a circle in the soil, at least three times the diameter of the pot, for the border of each planting hole. You can also use flags, marking paint, or other markers if desired.
• Move the plants off to the side, preferably in the shade.

Take the time to dig a proper size planting hole.

Step 3: Dig Planting Hole

The planting hole is the most important part! A wide planting hole encourages the roots to spread out and establish themselves faster.

• Your planting hole should be slightly shallower than the root ball, but at least three times as wide.
• The roots should rest on solid ground to keep the plant from sinking, with the top of the root ball about an inch above the soil level.
• If you’re ambitious, you can dig deeper around the edges, leaving a solid mound in the center of the hole for the root ball to rest on.
• If your soil is compacted, make sure to rough up the sides of the hole, so it doesn’t glaze over and act like a big clay container.

Gently slice any circling roots.

Step 4: Prepare and Place Plants

• Gently lay the plant on its side and remove the container. Be very careful not to break any stems or to yank too hard on any part of the plant. If it’s stuck, you may need to squeeze or pound the container a little to work it loose, or cut the container into pieces.
• Use a sharp, sterile knife to gently cut any roots that are circling or matted. Circling roots have a tendency to keep growing in a circle instead of branching out.
• Don’t loosen or break apart the root ball itself! The idea is to keep the root ball intact, with some careful slices to encourage branching.
• Place each tree or shrub in the planting hole, then stand back and take a close look. Make sure the plant is straight, at the correct spacing and depth, and turned the direction you prefer it to face.

Make sure the root ball isn’t too deep.

Step 5: Backfill Hole

• Backfill around plants in stages, taking time to tamp down each layer.
• Incorporate a few shovelfuls of soil conditioner, and a sprinkling of bone meal, in with the soil, but don’t overdo it. Plants do better when the surrounding soil is similar to the landscape soil.
• When backfilling, don’t pile dirt on top of the root ball – keep it the same depth, or slightly shallower, than it was in the pot.
• Use extra soil to make a small donut-shaped mound around your plant, to help hold water. If your plants are on a slope, you can also use excess soil to make a small barrier to slow runoff.

Proper planting guide.

Step 6: Water and Adjust

• Water plants thoroughly, allowing time for it to soak in completely.
• The soil will sink a little as air pockets collapse, so recheck your plants and fill in any low spots.

Step 7: Mulch

• Add a light layer of mulch to protect your newly planted trees or shrubs. Usually 2”- 4” is plenty.
• Don’t pile mulch around the stems, as it can cause rotting and disease.

Step 8: Care After Planting

• Give your trees and shrubs extra water until established. Water new plants at least once a week for the first 5-6 weeks, then gradually cut back to every 2-3 weeks once there are signs (such as new leaf growth) they’re becoming established.
• By the following year, your plants should be ready to handle normal growing conditions, with perhaps some extra water during dry periods.

Further Information

• How to Plant Balled and Burlapped Trees and Shrubs (article)
• How to Plant a Bare Root Tree (video)
• How to Choose a Tree for Your Yard (video)
• How to Grow Holly
• How to Grow Hibiscus
• How to Grow Camellias
• How to Grow Hydrangeas
• How to Grow Crape Myrtles

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