Sharp tools make any pruning job easier.

Sharp tools make all the difference when tackling pruning chores. Plants will recover more quickly from clean cuts, and your muscles will thank you as well. Even quality pruning shears and hedge clippers need sharpening from time to time to maintain their edge, and it makes a great project on a cold or rainy day. Here’s how to go about sharpening your pruning tools.

It doesn’t take long for your tools to get dull and dirty.

Types of Pruning Tools

Before you start, take a good look at your pruning tools, paying close attention to the beveling of the blades. This bevel is what makes a tool sharp, and blades are factory ground to a precise angle that’s just right for each tool. When sharpening a blade, focus on maintaining the bevel – don’t try to change the angle or the shape of the blade, or it won’t cut properly.

How you sharpen pruning tools depends on the type of blade:

• Hedge clippers: Usually consist of two blades that move against each other, like scissors. Often the blades are beveled on one side and flat on the other, and both blades need to be sharpened.
• Grass clippers: They also have two blades, but clippers may be beveled on both sides of the blade.
• Anvil Pruning Shears: This type has one blade that moves against a hard, flat plate. Instead of a scissoring action, they cut by pinching. Only one blade needs to be sharpened, but it may be beveled on both sides.
• Bypass Loppers or Pruning Shears: These shears also have one blade, but it moves past a hard, flat edge in a scissoring motion and is likely beveled on just one side.

Types of Sharpening Tools

If you have the proper sharpening tools, putting an edge on your clippers and shears only take a few minutes. You have some options when choosing sharpening tools:

• Grinders: While power grinders remove a lot of metal in a hurry, they can easily overheat the steel, causing the metal to soften and the blade to dull quickly. Though necessary for major reshaping, grinders require practice and a gentle touch to keep from damaging tools.
• Files: Files remove steel quickly without overheating, but can leave a rough edge, making them perfect for hoes, shovels, lawn mower blades, and other tools that don’t require a razor sharp edge. For best results, choose a medium or fine mill file with a “bastard cut.”
• Sharpening Stones: Available in grits ranging from coarse (120 grit) to extra fine (1000 or higher grit), sharpening stones may be made from natural stone (Arkansas, Washita) or manmade materials (silicon carbide, aluminum oxide). As the name implies, oilstones use honing oil as a lubricant while Japanese waterstones require water. Diamond plate and ceramic stones may be used dry or with water. While removing less steel than a file, the finer grits of honing stones can produce a very sharp edge, making them great for tools that need to be extra sharp.

Sharpening Pruning Tools

Step 1: Disassemble Tool

Most pruning tools are held together by a simple bolt or a couple of screws. You don’t have to take them apart, but the blades will be easier to clean and sharpen if separated.

Step 2: Clean Tool

Scrub away all dirt and rust with soap and water, use mineral spirits to dissolve any resin or stains, then dry thoroughly. More information about cleaning and removing rust from garden tools can be found in our article on How to Clean, Sharpen, and Maintain Garden Tools.

Step 3: Clamp Blade

If you have a workshop, secure the blade in a clamp or vise. If not, brace the shears in your lap or on a countertop, but be careful not to cut yourself while holding it steady!

Step 4: Sharpen Blade

For very dull or nicked edges, start with a mill file or coarse sharpening stone. If the blade is in good shape, begin with a medium or fine sharpening stone. Lubricate the stone (if required), then sharpen by laying the stone flat against the beveled edge of the blade. Using steady strokes, push the stone or file toward the sharp edge of the blade. Continue until you’ve sharpened the whole length of the blade. Don’t overdo it – a few strokes should be all it takes.

Step 5: Remove Burr

Periodically place the stone or file flat against the back of the blade and make a gentle stroke toward the blade. You don’t want to reshape the flat edge, just remove any burr that has formed on the back of the edge.

Step 6: Hone Blade

After you’ve sharpened the blade, switch to a finer grit of stone and repeat the process to give a nice sharp edge. Apply less and less pressure as you go for a finer edge.

Step 7: Clean Tool

Use a clean rag to wipe off any metal filings, being careful not to cut yourself. Lightly oil the blade and any moving parts of your tools.

Enjoy your nice sharp pruning shears!

Step 8: Reassemble

Put your pruning shears back together and give ‘em a try! Touch up the blade if needed, until it produces a smooth, easy cut. Hang your tools in a dry place to protect your sharpening job.

Tags: , prune, pruning