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Pouring and Finishing a Concrete Slab
By: advertiser-
Step 1:
http://www.dannylipford.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/08/advertorial-pouring-finishing-concrete-slab-1.jpgConstruct forms with 2x4 or 2x6 lumber, and secure in place by wood stakes and deck screws.
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Step 2:
http://www.dannylipford.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/08/advertorial-pouring-finishing-concrete-slab-2.jpgCheck the forms for level. 1/4” for every 12’ is sufficient to allow for rain run-off.
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Step 3:
http://www.dannylipford.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/08/advertorial-pouring-finishing-concrete-slab-3.jpgEvenly spread 3” to 4” of all purpose gravel, and then level the gravel.
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Step 4:
http://www.dannylipford.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/08/advertorial-pouring-finishing-concrete-slab-4.jpgCompact the gravel base using a tamper.
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Step 5:
http://www.dannylipford.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/08/advertorial-pouring-finishing-concrete-slab-5.jpgDampen the gravel base using a garden hose to prevent shrinkage cracking.
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Step 6:
http://www.dannylipford.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/08/advertorial-pouring-finishing-concrete-slab-6.jpgPour the concrete mix in evenly placed leads with the top of the concrete mounds 2” to 3” above the forms.
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Step 7:
http://www.dannylipford.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/08/advertorial-pouring-finishing-concrete-slab-7.jpgConsolidate and distribute the concrete evenly using a hoe.
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Step 8:
http://www.dannylipford.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/08/advertorial-pouring-finishing-concrete-slab-8.jpgScreed the concrete using a straight 2x4 by moving the board back and forth across the surface.
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Step 9:
http://www.dannylipford.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/08/advertorial-pouring-finishing-concrete-slab-9.jpgAdd concrete to any low areas and screed level.
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Step 10:
http://www.dannylipford.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/08/advertorial-pouring-finishing-concrete-slab-10.jpgOnce the concrete has lost its sheen, smooth the concrete surface using a wood float.
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Step 11:
http://www.dannylipford.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/08/advertorial-pouring-finishing-concrete-slab-11.jpgCut in control joints using a groover and straight-edge.
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Step 12:
http://www.dannylipford.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/08/advertorial-pouring-finishing-concrete-slab-12.jpgUse an edging tool to consolidate and shape the edges of the slab.
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Step 13:
http://www.dannylipford.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/08/advertorial-pouring-finishing-concrete-slab-13.jpgFreshly placed concrete should be water cured for a minimum of 3 to 5 days with a fine water mist.
Sponsored message from
Watch this step-by-step slideshow to find out how to pour and finish a concrete slab on your home, such as a driveway or patio. When working with cement-based products, always wear eye protection and waterproof gloves.
- Step 1: Prior to placing concrete forms:
(1.) Construct the form with 2×4 or 2×6 lumber, and secure in place by wood stakes and deck screws.
(2.) Excavate the slab area to a depth of about 7”, allowing 3” for a gravel base and 4” for concrete. - Step 2: Check the forms for level (1/4” for every 12’ is sufficient to allow for rain run-off). Patio and sidewalk forms should slope evenly away from structures.
- Step 3: Evenly spread 3” to 4” of QUIKRETE All Purpose Gravel and then level the gravel.
- Step 4: Compact the gravel base using a tamper. TIP: a solid sub-base will help prevent erosion and slab settling.
- Step 5: Dampen the gravel base using a garden hose to prevent shrinkage cracking especially in hot temperatures.
- Step 6: Pour the concrete mix in evenly placed leads; the top of the concrete mounds should be about 2” to 3” above the forms before leveling.
- Step 7: Consolidate and distribute the concrete evenly using a hoe. The surface of the concrete should be relatively flat and slightly above the form.
- Step 8: Screed the concrete using a straight 2×4 by moving the board back and forth across the surface of the concrete in a sawing motion to remove the excess concrete and smooth the surface.
- Step 9: Add concrete to any low areas and screed level.
- Step 10: Once the concrete has lost its sheen, smooth the concrete surface using a wood float in an arching motion. NOTE: use a stiff-bristle broom to create a non-slip broom finish (all broom strokes should be made in the same direction).
- Step 11: Cut in control joints using a groover and straight-edge (a 4” thick slab will require control joints a minimum of every 10’ in each direction). NOTE: control joints should be cut a minimum of 1/4 the depth of the slab.
- Step 12: Use an edging tool to consolidate and shape the edges of the slab. Several passes should be made in each direction for a smooth finish.
- Step 13: Freshly placed concrete should be water cured for a minimum of 3 to 5 days with a fine water mist. TIP: water curing can be eliminated by applying QUIKRETE Acrylic Concrete Cure & Seal immediately after finishing the concrete. Acrylic Cure & Seal can be applied with a roller, garden sprayer or a brush.
To find out more, visit www.quikrete.com.
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