Today's Homeowner with Danny Lipford
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How to Repair a Leaking Water Heater Pressure Relief Valve

By: Danny Lipford

I just flushed my hot water heater as you mentioned and now the pressure relief valve is leaking. Is this something I can replace on my own, or should I call a plumber? -Leighton

Hi Leighton,

Pressure relief valves sometime develop a drip when opened for the first time in years. Try opening and closing it a few times to see if it will seat itself. If you have a large leak or the drip doesn’t stop on its own in a day or two, the valve will need to be replaced. Whether you can replace it yourself will depend on your skill level, but as far as plumbing repairs go, it’s not that difficult. If you do try to fix it, here are the basic steps involved:

  1. First, turn off the gas to the water heater, or flip the breaker if it’s electric.
  2. Close the cold water cut-off valve going into the water heater.
  3. Open the valve at the bottom and the pressure relief valve for a minute to drain a little water out of the tank and relieve the pressure.
  4. Remove the overflow pipe from the pressure relief valve. If it’s been glued or soldered in place, it may have to be cut off.
  5. Use a pipe wrench to unscrew the old pressure relief valve.
  6. Wrap Teflon tape around the threads of the new valve, and screw it in until tight, orienting the overflow pipe opening away from the tank.
  7. Reattach the relief valve drain pipe using Teflon tape on the threads. If you have to replace the drain pipe, use pipe (and glue) that is rated for hot water (such as CPVC rather than PVC).
  8. Open the cold water cut-off and check for leaks around the relief valve.

Good luck with your project,


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74 Comments on “How to Repair a Leaking Water Heater Pressure Relief Valve”

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  1. Randy Says:
    September 16th, 2008 at 1:41 am

    Hello Danny,

    I have did everythings you said but my valve still run water when I cut it back on. Even if the valve is cold it still run and have a lot of pressure. What should I do.


  2. Pat Dover Says:
    January 5th, 2009 at 6:46 pm

    Maybe from now recommend turning the main supply line off. Today we changed a relief valve on a heater in an attic. The plumbing had been crossed. The shutoff was on the cold inlet side of the heater but the cold water was coming in to the hot side. Dip tube changed and c and h crossed. Not good is a understatement. Just an idea but thats how I will approach it from now on. Turn off main. Real fun going behind a sorry plumber

  3. Pam henderson Says:
    April 14th, 2009 at 2:24 pm

    I had a leak from pressure valve which finally just blew across room. I replaced valve but when I turned the main water valve back on only upstairs water runs. I didnt turn anything else off but the gas and delmarva told me how to do that. for three days I have no water on 1st floor, but have water in basement and second floor. Help!

  4. Jennifer Says:
    January 14th, 2010 at 12:49 pm

    I have attempted to change the TPR valve b/c it has a slow leak, I have followed all the steps, however I am unable to remove(unscrew) the TPR valve. I had a 250lb man use his weight and a pipe wrench to try and remove the valve in order to replace it with a new one. A cheater won’t work b/c that 250lb man bent the relief valve drain pipe threads. Can I try to use WD-40 or some other trick of the trade to get the TPR valve off w/o damaging anything?

  5. Eduardo Says:
    April 23rd, 2010 at 11:00 am

    Replace my tpr, now I have no hot water pressure.

  6. Official Comment:

    Ben Erickson Says:
    April 24th, 2010 at 8:57 am

    Hi Eduardo,
    Unless it’s leaking substantially, replacing your temperature pressure relief valve shouldn’t have an effect on water pressure.

  7. MichelleC Says:
    May 26th, 2010 at 2:16 am

    I replaced my old hot water tank about 2 years ago because no one I called could not get the overflow pipe to stop leaking, even after replacing the valve twice! Within 2 weeks of installing the new one…it started leaking too. As I forestated, that was 2 years ago…and it is still leaking. I am really frustrated about how to stop this leaking. The valve has been replaced on this once, and as of today, a plumber, who is a friend of ours lowered the pressure…?? and within an hour after he left, the leaking started again! What else can I do?? Thank you.

  8. Craig T Says:
    May 28th, 2010 at 3:12 pm

    I had the same problem. Mine was cured when I installed an expansion tank on the cold water line running into the water heater.

  9. Paul Says:
    September 24th, 2010 at 12:10 am

    Am going to replace the valve, there are two to choose from, both have the same pressure specs, but one has a longer plastic rod or shaft protruding out the back of the valve, apparently into the tank. What does this rod do and what difference would it make between the longer and shorter versions (besides about $4.00) ?

  10. doloresR Says:
    October 18th, 2010 at 11:54 am

    Bought a brand new n gas heater. When all installed noticed water leaking from outside overflow pipe. Replaced pressure valve but cannot screw new pipe all the way. Threads are not grasping all the way. Have changed PV twice. PV seems to not fit properly are PV universal?

  11. Jerry Says:
    November 8th, 2010 at 4:13 pm

    Hi I have a problem with pressure relieve valve for water heating system , the valve next and connected to tank above the furness ,leeks only when heating system is working , is that because of a lodging …? in the tank above the furness.

  12. raydon Says:
    November 28th, 2010 at 9:29 pm

    Hi Danny:
    Thanks for you article. I change my pressure relief valve using your advice. No problems.

  13. Ray Jimenez Says:
    December 13th, 2010 at 10:48 am

    I was told that once water starts flowing through the overflow drainage pipe “its time for a new water heater. Is this true?

  14. Official Comment:

    Ben Erickson Says:
    December 14th, 2010 at 9:31 am

    Hi Ray,
    When water is coming out of the pressure relief valve on your water heater, it could signal that too much pressure is building up inside the water heater (which is what the valve is designed for) due to the burner or element not cutting off, in which case the water heater needs to be repaired or replaced. Or it could be a sign that the pressure relief valve itself is not closing properly, in which case all you need to do is replace the pressure relief valve on the water heater.

  15. Jami Says:
    December 21st, 2010 at 8:17 pm

    Out of dire necessity, I bought a new Hot Water Tank three weeks ago, the drip tube has leaked since installation. Replaced pressure relief valve twice with no change. Replaced Hot Water Tank (what a chore!) and the relief valve still leaks. We are on public water and never had any issue with pressure. I had a plumber do the last replacement of the valve and he says its impossible to keep leaking. And burner is working fine. But, it does leak! What can I do?? Is there a “wrong” way to install a drip tube? Should I try another tank?

  16. Official Comment:

    Ben Erickson Says:
    December 22nd, 2010 at 8:19 am

    Hi Jami,
    That depends on whether the pressure relief valve is leaking around the threads where it attaches to the hot water tank or if it is leaking out of the inside of the valve itself. In either case, start by replacing the pressure relief valve, using a different brand in case the valve itself is defective. Make sure the threads on the valve seal to the tank without leaking using plumber’s thread compound. If the valve is leaking around the threads into the tank, the threads on the tank might be the problem. Good luck with your project!

  17. melissa Says:
    January 2nd, 2011 at 9:03 am

    Thank you Danny all your information was most helpful :)

  18. Kris Says:
    January 8th, 2011 at 3:16 pm

    Hello. I have a new hot water heater AND expansion tank (both less than two years old). There has always been water leaking from out of the side discharge tube but less than a gallon per week. Four months ago I had to replace the pressure guage, expansion tank, and both pressure values in my furnace. The hot water tank continued to leak at a slow rate. It was easy to keep up with. Today the water is pouring out of the discharge tube. About a gallon per hour. I turned off the heater and flipped the valve to release about four gallons of water. The leaking has stopped but I haven’t turned the hot water heater back on. I researched on line and discovered the main water line pressure may be too high. I can live with a slow leak but how do I fix the current problem? Do I need to completely drain the hot water heater? Thank you.

  19. debbie Says:
    January 22nd, 2011 at 8:39 pm

    Hi danny,

    We noticed some time ago the hot water system overflow pipe was leaking water. It is under the house. I put a hose on the end of it to catch the water as I live in the country and am on water tanks water is vital. to my horror it driping at a fast rate. Loosing about a bucket in an hour or two. I also noticed the pressure relief value is hissing and a very small amount of water is coming from it. I have now turned off the (I think) input value but water is still coming out of the overflow pipe. I would pressume once the level of water in the tank goes down it will stop leaking. this tank is 18 years but most of its life it was turned off as its installed in a weekender. We now live in permanently. Are we wasting time getting a plumber or should we buy a new one???

  20. Official Comment:

    Ben Erickson Says:
    January 23rd, 2011 at 9:13 am

    Hi Debbie,
    It’s hard to say without actually examining your hot water tank whether the problem lies with the tank itself or the pressure relief valve. If the hot water worked okay and wasn’t excessively hot or steam didn’t come out when you turned on a faucet, the problem is probably with your pressure relief valve. Replacing the valve is a simple job for a plumber and doable for a DIYer that has some experience with plumbing. If you have turned off the cold water valve going into the tank, water should not continue to come out when you open a hot water faucet other than possibly a small drip.

  21. Michele Giacobbi Says:
    February 8th, 2011 at 3:17 pm

    My leak is specifically coming out the threads of the screw on the top of the bell. What can I do to stop this leak? Will plumbers tape work?

  22. Official Comment:

    Ben Erickson Says:
    February 9th, 2011 at 8:19 am

    Hi Michele,
    Pressure relief valves have tapered pipe threads which require either Teflon tape or pipe joint compound (pipe dope) to seal properly. When using Teflon tape, be sure to use the recommended type for your application, and wrap it around the pressure relief valve in a clockwise direction (when looking at the inner end of the valve). If removing the valve and resealing it doesn’t stop the leak, there may be damage to the threads on either the valve or tank. Try replacing the relief valve to see if that stops it. If the valve still leaks, the threads in the hot water heater are probably damaged. I don’t know an easy fix for that, but you may want to have a plumber look at it to see if it can be fixed. Good luck with your project!

  23. yvonne Says:
    February 10th, 2011 at 10:53 pm

    i turned off the water to water heater,opened the relief vavle on the side or the water heater. then i drained the water heater, now it leaks outside from the brass overflow,i need help its only two years old. can someone give me a tip on how to stop this type of leak?

  24. tonia Says:
    February 12th, 2011 at 8:36 pm

    The relief valve on my water heater is dripping, but stops when I shut off the main water line. It drips agian once the water line is turned on. The hot water that comes out of all the faucets in the house also seem hotter than normal. Could this be why the valve is leaking?

  25. Official Comment:

    Ben Erickson Says:
    February 14th, 2011 at 8:37 am

    Hi Tonia,
    It’s possible that the water pressure in your house is too high due to a faulty thermostat on your water heater that’s causing it to superheat the water (try turning down the water heater to see if it lowers the hot water temperature), but the problem is probably a bad seal in the pressure relief valve. If so, the valve will probably need to be replaced. Good luck with your project!

  26. Marc Says:
    February 17th, 2011 at 12:08 pm

    My hot water heater is leaking from the overflow valve located on the side of my gas heater, my tub is half full but the water is cold, it probably has been weeping for months. My water seems to be very hot but my showers do not last long with hot water. Last night I actually had steam visible coming out of my faucets. The heater was manufactured in 2002, it is a State Select Product. The heater kicks on mainly once Hot water is used and the flame seems to be working fine in this reguard. Is this a hjeater going bad or is there a fix for the issues mentioned.

  27. Official Comment:

    Ben Erickson Says:
    February 17th, 2011 at 4:57 pm

    Hi Marc,
    If you have steam coming out of the faucet, it sounds like the thermostat on the heater is not working right and allowing the water to get too hot, which could cause the pressure to build up in the lines to a dangerous level and may even rupture the pipes or cause the glue in plastic pipes to come loose. Since the hot water runs out quick, my guess is that your tank is also full of sediment. You could try draining the tank to remove the sediment and replacing the pressure relief valve, but it sounds like you’re due for a new water heater to me. Good luck with your project!

  28. Marc Says:
    February 17th, 2011 at 10:16 pm

    Thanks Ben Erickson, I actually went ahead and replaced the Pressure relief valve. Bad news, The valve is leaking again within the first use of the hot water. I did drain the tank and it yielded White particles, almost looked like chlorine or even pvc like cuttings. I will try the Thermostat next. I do have a expansion tank in the crawl space pretty far away from the heater, could the tank be bad thus forcing the Pressure valve to weep?

  29. Official Comment:

    Ben Erickson Says:
    February 18th, 2011 at 8:57 am

    Hi Marc,
    The only reasons I know of that would cause the pressure relief valve to leak are if the valve itself is defective (such as the gasket seal being bad) or if the pressure in your system is too high. You might want to have the utilitiy company or a home inspection service check your water pressure (both hot at the tank and cold at a faucet outside).

  30. Marc Says:
    February 18th, 2011 at 9:50 am

    Thanks again Ben, the leaking has no signs at the threaded connection it is coming only out of the overflow stem pipe. no hint at the face of the tank. When I purchased the valve the service agent mentioned the cold water expansion tank could be bad. So you do not think the temp control mechanism is the problem here?

  31. Marc Says:
    February 18th, 2011 at 10:12 am

    Ben, I should note, the valve starts leaking in the mid to end portion during the re-heating process. The cold water in-bound pipe gets very hot, once the water is used in the house the pipe then becomes very cold. Then after the flame process stops the drip from the overflow stops, this is not a consistent drip it only occurs during the heating up cycle.

  32. Marc Says:
    February 19th, 2011 at 1:09 pm

    Ben, I replaced both the water heater and the cold water Expansion tank, the exp-tank was shot, the heater was full of sedimant and leaking inside the unti as well. Thank You for responding to my problems, I will be back with future dilemmas, this is a great link, Enjoy The Presidents Day Holiday.

  33. Official Comment:

    Ben Erickson Says:
    February 19th, 2011 at 2:16 pm

    Hi Marc,
    Glad to hear you replaced it, sounds like it was ready to go!

  34. George Says:
    February 19th, 2011 at 10:08 pm

    Hi Marc,
    I have pooling from the inlet fittings on top of my (gas) hot water tank. I tried to tighten the fittings and they still leak. Do I need to replace the fittings.

  35. Brad Says:
    February 25th, 2011 at 8:54 pm

    We have a water leak. The plumber has narrowed it down to the hot water heater. With all water valves shut off (toilets, sinks, ice maker, washer and hot water heater), the meter stops running. When the cold water valve for the hot water heater is turned back on by itself, the meter runs. No visible water in or around the water heater. Currently using around 1 gallon of water per hour.

  36. Brad Says:
    February 25th, 2011 at 9:26 pm

    I apologize, I failed to mention the hot water heater is in the basement and all pipes coming in from above.

  37. Official Comment:

    Ben Erickson Says:
    February 26th, 2011 at 9:46 pm

    Hi Brad,
    Turning off the cold intake valve to the water heater not only turns off the water to the hot water heater, but also to all the hot water pipes in the house. If the water heater itself isn’t leaking, the leak must be either in the hot water pipes or the hot water side of a faucet. If the pipes run in an attic, basement, or crawlspace, follow each of the hot water pipes and look for leaks. If they’re buried under the house, look for damp or wet soil in the crawlspace, if they’re embedded in a concrete slab, it will be hard to find the leak and impossible to fix it if you do without rerouting the pipe. Good luck with your project!

  38. garth Says:
    February 28th, 2011 at 7:51 am

    why does tap overflow valve leaks…and i was told i need a badder tank…is that so?

  39. garth Says:
    February 28th, 2011 at 7:59 am

    and yes i replced the overflow vale twice now and still leaks is it possilbe draining the tank …will help not needed a bladder pressor tank

  40. garth mager Says:
    February 28th, 2011 at 8:02 am

    i was told there too mush pressure in the tank i told them there not hot water yet and still leaks out of the values i guess 2 things but not sure please help…will draining a tank reduce pressure an why is there pressure come from if no hot water yet…..and will a baldder tank help….thanks garth

  41. amy Says:
    March 5th, 2011 at 7:37 pm

    we have replaced the pressure valve on our water heater 4 times now and as soon as we do it keeps hissing and releasing water. We have an expansion tank and back flow preventer. We have been in this house for 5 years and this problem just started a year ago. The water heater was manufactured in 2004 – does this mean we should get a new water heater? Uggghhh!

  42. Roy Says:
    March 9th, 2011 at 1:57 pm

    The pressure valve on our water heater is flowing freely. Our house used to be on well water and on the cold water inlet line to the water heater there is a reverse-flow valve, but we are now on rural water. I suspect that this valve is causing, or increasing the leak from the water heater, is this possible? Do I need a reverse-flow valve or can I remove it? Would it be better to add an expansion tank?

  43. Pat Says:
    April 4th, 2011 at 1:24 pm

    Our hot water heater started leaking from the temp/pressure release valve pipe. A slow steady leak. We lowered the hot water temperature setting significantly and after about 1-1.5 hrs it stopped leaking. We slowly increased temperature over 2 days to see if it would leak again and then it did once we got close to previous temp. Since then (2-3 weeks)we have had it lowered to a lukewarm temp. and no further leaks. Is this likely a problem with the valve? the thermostat? the hot water heater is 10 years old.

  44. Official Comment:

    Ben Erickson Says:
    April 5th, 2011 at 10:16 am

    Hi Pat,
    If the water coming out of the tank isn’t excessively hot and the water pressure in your house isn’t overly high, the problem is probably a defective pressure relief valve. Depending on the type and model of pressure relief valve, they are generally set to open at pressures over 125 to 150 p.s.i., or temperatures over 210 degrees F, pretty extreme conditions. Since a pressure relief isn’t very expensive (usually under $15) I would start by replacing it to see if that solves your problem. Good luck with your project!

  45. Allen Says:
    April 7th, 2011 at 10:53 pm

    I have Bradford White gas water heater. The relief valve is on the side. I removed the plastic cover around it and leak is right from under the valve where insulation of the heater is. I can clearly see relief valve connecton to the heater and it’s not leaking. Does that mean I have tank corrosion on the side or there are some other pipes installed under the cover that might leak ?

  46. Jennifer Says:
    May 27th, 2011 at 4:57 pm

    have Bradford White gas water heater. It is leaking right at the connection into the water tank? Possible corrosion. Will we need to replace the T&P valve also or just remove and seal the connection better??

  47. Chris Says:
    July 9th, 2011 at 11:33 pm

    I have a slow leak from my relief valve…about 1 cup worth in a weeks time. i have replaced the valve twice and continue to get the slow leak. i have no other issues with the water heater pressure or heat wise…the water heater is about ten years old. is it time to call a plumber?

  48. mike Says:
    July 11th, 2011 at 2:27 pm

    why would water flow out of the top of my waterheater out of both inlet and outlet valves?

  49. kirk Says:
    July 17th, 2011 at 1:18 pm

    hi, i have a hot water that is leaking from the drain in the side of the hot water heater, how do i get it to stop.If you can tell me step by step what to do. It has been leaking for about a week. It is hot water coming out of the drain.

  50. Official Comment:

    Ben Erickson Says:
    July 19th, 2011 at 9:07 am

    Hi Chris,
    If the leak is coming from inside the pressure relief valve, replacing it with one rated for the PSI of the water pressure in your house should fix it. If the leak is coming from the threads around the pressure relief valve, then you need to use the proper thread sealant or tape when installing the valve. If the threads around the valve are still leaking after sealing them, there may be a problem with the threads on the relief valve opening in the water heater, and you would probably need a plumber to fix it. Good luck with your project!

  51. glenn Says:
    August 19th, 2011 at 9:02 am

    does my pressure relief valve pipe need to be insulated if its vented to the outside of my cabin?
    thank you for the help

  52. susan Says:
    September 11th, 2011 at 9:03 pm

    I have electric hot water heater and cut it down very low and in the vacation mode since I was going to be gone about 2 weeks. I came home and cut it to about 125 or 130 probably and now it is hissing and just a couple drops of water I could feel around the pressure valve. Should I panic and call a plumber right away or did it do this because it had been set so low for 2 weeks? I cut it down to about 100 when the hissing started.

  53. Joel Says:
    September 23rd, 2011 at 1:58 pm

    Over the past month, my water heater has been leaking through the relief valve, but it is not a steady drip. It only seems to happen late at night (midnight – 7am), and is not a constant release, but more bursty. It was only slight at first, but it is now much more noticable. the relief valve sees to be opening and closing fine, so would this point more to a input pressure issue, or could this still be a relief valve issue?

  54. Jose Says:
    September 26th, 2011 at 10:12 am

    HI i noticed that my water heater is leaking water from the top where the valves are is that a sign for new one?

  55. Deborah Statler Says:
    November 16th, 2011 at 8:22 pm


    I have read the entire column as posted here but cannot find what exactly sounds like my issue. The hot water heater was off completely for several months. When it was first turned back on and relit (gas with pilot), had issues with, hopefully, thermocouple, which am getting ready to change now. Upon relighting, which it kept lit until used for first time, noted a leak of water from around the threads to the relief valve to the pipe that runs down the side. There does not seem to be any leak at the pipe itself on the bottom (inside wipe with finger, finger comes out dry). Also noted that, even tho heater has been off since the relight and thermocouple issues, the leak continues tho not as heavy as when it was relit. Again, it is not leaking down the pipe, just at the junction/threads where the pipe enters the relief valve. There does not seem to be any other leaks inside or outside the tank. Just this one at the outside threads to pipe. Is this just a threads issue, as in should I remove pipe and use the plumbers tape stuff and put back on, or is it something where I will have to replace the relief valve itself?

  56. Sonia McAlister Says:
    January 16th, 2012 at 1:34 pm

    Quick question. My husband noticed that he was able to hear water running from the sink in his bathroom. In my bathroom you can’t hear water running. There is no water pouring out and there are no places outside where the water is standing. He suspects that it could be leaking within the concrete floors, although you can’t even tell by the floors that there in a leak, you only hear water running. What do you think it could be. Also, the hot water use to come out cold, you had to run it awhile to get hot water, now you can turn it on and get hot water. Thanks for any help you can give us!!

  57. timmie Says:
    January 19th, 2012 at 9:24 pm

    i have a problem with a electric water heater i have a pretty steady small flow leak from behind the pressure releif valve i had it since 1995 and it started leaking yesterday. do i need to replace the valve or the water heater itself?

  58. Robert Says:
    January 20th, 2012 at 11:12 pm

    My hot water heater was working fine until I raised the top thermostat. I did not raise the bottom one. Now the releif valve drains when the heater is turned on at the breaker. I turned the thermostat back down and turned the heater off at the breaker but kept the cold supply turned on. the valve does not drain unless I lift the valve toggle manually, but water seeps from around the threads of the valve. Have I blown a thermostat,need to replace pressure valve or have I made an expensive mistake and now need a new heater? Please Help!

  59. Brandon Says:
    February 3rd, 2012 at 10:28 pm

    I just bought a place and had the water turned on today, well when the guy turned on the water, water shot out of the pressure relief valve w the valve shut off. Whant could cause this?… Maybe to much water pressure… Would it be ok to just replace the pressure relief valve on the top of my hot water heater?

  60. Sandra Says:
    February 5th, 2012 at 7:43 am

    The home I rent has a gas water heater. Today when I went into the basement, there was substantial water draining out of a long plastic tube leading from the hot water heater. The end of the tube had apparantly been elevated at one point, as I found the duct tape showing the beam it was attached to, but had fallen. What is this?

  61. Mike D Says:
    February 6th, 2012 at 6:36 pm

    It worked!!! So easy!!! $8 part – Thanks!!!

  62. Official Comment:

    Ben Erickson Says:
    February 7th, 2012 at 7:46 am

    Hi Mike,
    Glad to hear your pressure heater relief valve replacement went well!

  63. Caryn Says:
    February 21st, 2012 at 1:29 pm

    Our hot water heater had collected sediment and was making a loud popping noise so we contracted with a local plumbing company to have them drain and refill the heater. (our unit is in the attic and did not want to try this ourselves). When I got home from work the following evening, the heater had leaked. The ceiling was completely soaked with a giant hole in it as well as hardwood floor damage. Unit was less than 4 years old, still under warranty with an expansion tank installed. We were told that the T&P valve had gone bad but I find it hard to believe that it would go bad less than 24 hours after the unit was drained. Sounds more like they didn’t completely cut off the drain valve after the work was completed. How likely is it for T&P valve to go bad on a relatively new unit? And would draining a heater require the plumber to do anything on the T&P valve?

  64. Chai V Lee Says:
    February 27th, 2012 at 8:16 pm

    I tried to replace my gas water heater pressure release valve, but when I went to remove the old valve, the inside piece fell into the tank, how do I get the piece out?

  65. Rick Says:
    March 10th, 2012 at 6:46 am


    The tank for my domestic (well) water system was just professionally replaced. Now the pressure relief valve on my boiler is leaking at a rate of about 2 gals/day. Should I replace the valve?

    Thank you.

  66. ART BINDRUM Says:
    March 21st, 2012 at 9:40 am


  67. Charles Says:
    April 23rd, 2012 at 10:00 pm

    Tpr valve on hot water heater will leak small amounts of waters from time to time filling a small dish daily, I’ve replaced valve twice and the and replacedthermostat , valve continues to release water. Any thoughts to help .

  68. Ron Says:
    May 28th, 2012 at 2:29 am

    Electric water heater: Very Very Hot water was coming out of the relief valve, we shut off the cold water, it quit. We then flipped the breaker for it.

    Also, we have to push the reset button for it daily. It had also burned out a fuse in our breaker box, we recently had a new one put in.

    What can it be?

  69. Jessica Says:
    June 14th, 2012 at 7:53 pm

    My hot water heater tank is old, but I don’t know how old. It is electric. Last year I replaced the burners and thermostat(s? both if there are two, i can’t remember now without running out to look at it). In other words, I replaced all the parts, including the pressure relief valve. Recently I had a leak from the hot water pipe, close to the connection at the top (it is important to note that this is a mobile home previously owned by some cheap-ass and the pipes coming out of that thing look like a nightmare!). My friend fixed the leak by replacing several pipes with new stuff, and did a good job of it. Two days ago I noticed another leak, however it is impossible to tell where it is coming from. What is clear is that there is (rusty/red/sediment) water pooling around the two top connections (hot and cold water outs) and the pressure relief valve. The panels that usually cover the electrical components – thermostat, etc- are gone and as that plus some insulation is exposed for top and bottom thermostats, you can see that these areas too are soaked! It seems to me that there is some sort of leak or crack at the top INSIDE the water heater, and this is spilling out basically everywhere.

    I’ve turned the hotwater heater off, but water is still on. I am extremely poor this summer, jobless, and 8.5 mo pregnant! I can’t afford a new heater, but perhaps a new shell and pop out all my components into a ‘new’ or newer shell…. Maybe you have an answer or suggestion. Thank you!

  70. Dean Says:
    July 19th, 2012 at 7:21 am

    My hot water heater is leaking out the bottom (set on bricks off the concrete floor) It leaks cold water, not hot anyway. If I turn off the supply line it continues to leak out the bottom until I open the pressure relief valve and release the pressure. The TPR appears fine and dry. I’m confused because if it were a tank leak I would think the leak would increase when opening the pressure valve but instead it stops. Would lack of dip tube maintenance cause this?

  71. todd Says:
    August 17th, 2012 at 5:51 pm

    its friday and i cant get a plummer here til next week,pressure vavle shot,can i cork the other end and be safe thru the weekend

  72. Heather Says:
    August 22nd, 2012 at 12:29 am

    We did not have any hot water….we took the cover off of the water heater and found that the thermostat had caught on fire. We have a single element system. We replaced the thermostat and turned the water heater back on. My son took a shower over an hour later and then my husband went to wash his hands after that and he heard the water heater start to spew water out of the top. It is a side mounted water heater so there is no piping in the top of the tank. What would be causing this and how does it need to be fixed?

  73. Tom Helton Says:
    August 25th, 2012 at 4:19 pm

    Water was leaking from pressure valve overflow. Replaced the pressure valve, but it is still leaking. Checked lower element with tester and it does not seem to be working. Would the lower element leaking cause the upper element not to shut off and create the excessive pressure?

  74. Vinnie Says:
    August 26th, 2012 at 9:57 pm

    My 11 year old gas water heater is leaking heavily in the pressure relief valve since this morning. The valve is on the top of heater. No leaks in the past. Shut the gas and cold water inlet, and drained the water out. Replaced the PRV with new one and turned the cold water inlet on. Gas was still shut off and hence the heater was off. Still leaking heavily in the PRV. Do I have to replace the heater, or is there anything I can do to fix the existing one? Thank you very much.

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