Gutters are often installed using aluminum gutter spikes and ferrules which can bend easily and work loose over time. Replacing them with steel gutter screws and rigid plastic ferrules provides a more secure alternative and will prevent them from pulling loose or sagging.
To replace gutter spikes with screws, simply remove the old gutter spike and insert the screw through the existing hole in the front of the gutter. Then use a cordless drill to drive the screw into a new hole in the fascia board. Snug the screw up to the gutter, being careful not to over tighten it.
Please Leave a Comment
You can follow comments to this article by subscribing to the RSS news feed with your favorite feed reader.
Comments submitted may be edited for clarity and used on Homefront, Today’s Homeowner®, or posted in articles on dannylipford.com at our discretion. In addition, you may submit questions at our contact page or by calling (800) 946-4420.

joe t. Says:February 19th, 2010 at 6:45 am
Thanks, Nabri, glad you liked the gutter-repair tip. It’s smart–and a lot easier–to make this repair as soon as you see the gutter pull away from the house. Wait too long, and you might have to replace the entire gutter. By the way, if you can’t find gutter screws at the home center or hardware store, ask for long landscaping screws. They’ll work just as well. Good luck!–Joe T.
July 4th, 2010 at 2:06 am
Please don’t take offense to this, but the act of substituting spikes with screws is a sophomoric exercise. 99% of the work is getting those darn spikes out without damaging the roof, gutter, and nail head. This can be accomplished by using positioning the claw of a flat hammer on the spike head and then by taking a heavy hammer and whacking it out without falling off the ladder and becoming a paraplegic.

Ben Erickson Says:July 4th, 2010 at 10:36 am
Hi Butch,
I would replace the gutter spikes with screws only if the spikes are already loose. If they’re tight and holding well, I’d leave them alone. That way it won’t be hard to remove the spikes, since they’re coming out anyway. By the way, never use one hardened steel tool to hit another one (like a hammer against a hammer), since the steel can chip off and cause serious injury. I saw this happen when a carpenter was hitting the flat end of a hatchet with a hammer and a chip from the hammer flew off and hit another working in the leg with the force of a bullet. The steel was embedded an inch deep in his leg and had to be surgically removed. It would be better to position the nail puller on a pry bar (which is not made from hardened steel) under the head of the spike and strike it with a hammer or hit the hammer with a rubber mallet. The approach I use is to grab the head of the spike with locking pliers then twist it back and forth while pulling out on it.
October 9th, 2011 at 11:25 am
Don’t waste your time or gutters trying to pry out the old aluminum nails. Just cut the aluminum nails with bolt cutters and then slide the gutters off. After the gutter is clear then you can use the pry bar to pull out the stubs.
I have a 24″ bolt cutter which cut those nails like butter.

Joe T. Says:October 9th, 2011 at 6:37 pm
Good idea, Paul. I bet it doesn’t take much to cut through the gutter spikes, which are typically made of soft aluminum. My only concern is that I’m not sure how many people own bolt cutters. In any case, thanks for the tip.–Joe T.
November 5th, 2011 at 9:06 pm
Fallen tree limb pulled down section of gutter. Watch video and used advice. Worked great.

Joe T. Says:November 6th, 2011 at 9:08 am
Dear MMQ, Glad tip worked. Hope gutter stays up. Thanks for writing.–Joe T.